crudzinskas

I don't think the point was to be anal with numbers. The point is to have the correct information in an easy to find place. If there are many answers out there for a specific question that only has one answer, then that creates confusion for anyone else looking for the answer. I'm sure Subaru's spec has taken into account that a typical wrench won't hit the set point torque perfectly.

I think he is suggesting the seat is fine, but you may need a new wife. Check your warranty restrictions on that before talking to her about it, as replacement can be a difficult process and most do not have access to a loaner while this is being performed.

I would just leave them alone and put the new pads on. No point in changing a perfectly good OEM rotor if you haven't been having issues with it. Just take note of the proper procedure for dealing with the rears/parking brake assuming you have to retract the rotor piston in order to get the pads to fit. Otherwise it should be a 30 minute job for the whole car and you're done! If you're feeling ambitious, grease the caliper slide pins and bleed the brakes to get some fresh fluid in there while you have the wheels off.

As far as practical performance, the OEM set up is perfectly suited to do its job. Max brake pressure often results in ABS turning on which means the tires are the limiting factor for stopping performance. From what I have read(but have not verified myself), Akebono seems to be the manufacture of the OEM pads. You can get these pads from RockAuto for ~$40 for each the front and back set. I'm completely happy with OEM as I have well over half of the pads remaining (about 2mm of wear on the front and back) at 53,000 miles. As far as rotors, drilled/slotted can sometimes increase brake pad temperature if they are not designed properly. For the price premium, you probably won't see any daily driving improvement. If you want them more for the looks, then that's a valid enough excuse for me lol. Good luck on your choice!

More like 3.5 years old. Only at 53,000 miles but I've been getting some chirping/squealing on wet mornings. The belt physically looked to be in good shape, clean, and did not have any visible cracking. All of the pulleys looked clean and rotating without any wobble. I put on a Carquest Dayco Belt from Advance Auto, PN #5060780. It was 25% off and I got an additional 20% cash back from my credit card for a random deal they had at the time which made it $18. It seems to have fixed the noise as it has been very wet lately and there is no squeaking anymore. I also wanted to try and rule out the automatic tensioner as the issue since that could be replaced under the powertrain warranty still, I believe. My cost of unexpected maintenance/repairs is up to $18 now. Not too shabby . Oh wait, I mean - "This car is an endless money pit! My (Insert $80,000) car never needed a new belt, first this now the head gasket is surely next, not to mention the CVT is about to explode!"

Yes I got that part number. I tried it because of your previous post actually. It looked identical and matched up perfectly when held side-by-side. I honestly don't know what was keeping it from fitting well. I put in the new OEM one, and it popped right in. I'll probably try a new WIX one next time I change the filter since I really do believe it was just a fluke that it didn't fit and they are about $10 cheaper than OEM for what looks like a good quality filter.

Put on a new V-Belt and put in a new engine air filter. Man, that automatic tensioner made it too easy to do - took about 5 minutes from start to finish! It was actually faster than the engine air filter as I tried the equivalent WIX filter but think I got one a little out of spec/warped as the air box around it would not close properly. I just ended up getting another OEM one for a few dollars more that fit just as expected.

Generally, things that would go bad under warranty happen sooner than later if they are actual manufacture defects. Since you car is now ~4 years old, it is relatively likely that most thing that would have failed due to defective parts has happened. In general, if you have the money to pay for a random small/large failure, it is cheaper to go that route than to buy a warranty. Or put $2k into a high interest savings account and only take money out when the repair would have been covered under warranty, or get a "free" yearly oil change with the interest you earn - but I digress. Considering your engine has had 48,000 miles worth of oil changes at 22,000 miles, the previous owner was likely pretty careful with the car. Or someone who really liked wasting synthetic oil on 3,000 mile changes lol.

I just did the same recently and I completely agree as I do a lot of night driving. I didn't want to be "that guy" with the annoying LED lights that blind everyone so I made sure to check the height and light pattern. I did notice that I had to aim the lights quite a bit higher after switching from the stock bulbs. Following the Subaru procedure for aiming headlights, the LED bulbs aimed about 4 inches lower than the stock bulbs. Adjusting them upward to the correct height further improved the output as expected. The lights almost give you the light distance of high beams while keeping the beam pattern low and focused so that you aren't blinding anyone.

First, there are many situations which are highlighted in the eyesight manual on when this feature might not work. This isn't a self-driving car feature, it is a driver assist feature that was designed to work under ideal conditions. I could be incorrect, but the lane keep assist defaults to "off" every time you start the car and you need to manually turn it "on". This is how it is for my 2017 legacy at least. I would recommend not using lane assist when there are not both lanes that are visible, and in areas you have driven before and know it doesn't work well. The fact that it is reacting similarly in all three of your similar indicates it is working as programed by Subaru, but just not to your liking! Since this occurrence seems repeatable, definitely record what you find by video and take it to the dealer and have your concerns documented.

If it is convenient for you and helps your piece of mind, feel free to go to the dealer. Coolant lose is normal as the overflow container is not sealed/under pressure like the actual cooling system. If you live in a warm area or do a lot of highway driving, you would be more likely to experience more coolant loss than someone who takes shorter trips that don't get the car up to operating temperature for long. As others have said, best just to buy a bottle and top it off anytime it hits the low mark when cold. I personally lost around the amount of coolant it takes to fill from low to high over the first year of driving, and have lost about half that amount every subsequent year of driving.

Considering the 2019 Impreza, Ascent, Crosstrek, and Forester all have remote start with climate control setting, I don't think it would be too far of a stretch to assume the 2020 legacy and outback will adopt the same (or maybe more advanced) features - especially with the drastically upgraded infotainment screen. However, I have not officially read anything from Subaru concerning this to say this as an absolute fact. With what sounds like a greatly updated interior, the new infotainment unit, and the slight 1mpg fuel efficiency increase, I would personally wait for the 2020 and accept their might be a greater chance of a few quality issues out of the gate. Those wouldn't be of large concern to me as any initial quality problems would be covered under warranty. Have fun deciding!

Good Find! Thanks for the TBS info, I did not see that one when I looked a while back!

I appreciate the feedback! I think the main thing I was curious about if there was a test to check that the tensioner is providing the proper tension to the belt. If so is there a specification other than just tight enough so that the belt does not squeak?

When my car sits an extended period of time (overnight or longer) and it rains very heavily or is humid, my serpentine belt squeaks upon start up for probably about 1 minute worth of idle/driving and then is noise free no matter what weather condition. It has never made any sounds on a warm or cold day if it has been relatively dry out. I checked the belt alignment with the pulley and to see if the pulleys had any play to them and they did not appear to. The belt also looks to be in relatively good condition with no cracks or dirt either. Based on other sources I've been reading, it sounds like it could either be the belt starting to go bad or the automatic tensioner being the slightest bit too loose from the belt stretching over time. Is there a simple way to check to make sure the tensioner is in good shape? I looked in the FSM and made sure it easily loosened and tightened when turning the bolt clockwise and counter clockwise respectively. Can the tension limit be changed on an automatic tensioner? The belt is the original from the car and is 3 years and 46,000 miles old. I thought modern belts typically lasted longer than this, but I was interested in others experiences. Belts are relatively cheap, but I'd rather make sure there aren't any other checks I didn't think of doing before throwing away a good belt. Thanks in advance for any input!

Just wanted to share the Pep Boy's has a $15 oil rebate going on right now. That makes your choice Mobil 1, Valvoline, Penzoil, or Castrol Edge oils all around ~$15 depending your location. This can be combined with the Mobil 1 $12 rebate and the Penzoil $10 rebate. I called the Mobil 1 rebate phone and confirmed that they do accept Pep Boys for the rebate (even though it's not on the list, the only exclusion is Amazon), and Penzoil lists Pep Boys on their website. So $3 Mobil1 oil and $5 Penzoil for those who want it! http://img.rewardpromo.com/1/7445/21262.pdf https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/promotion-14.html#iframe=L2RpeS9TcHJpbmdNSVIxOS8 https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions/mobil-1-rebate-2019

Quickly comparing brand new MSRP's at a glance it looks like the Legacy will run right around $34k while the Genesis will be around $40k for about as similar equipment packages and set up (AWD/Horsepower) as you can get. For a sedan, I would call that a higher price range since it is where a lot of the luxury brands start. Note: This is for the G70 with AWD and the "elite" package compared to a fully loaded Legacy. The G80 starts at $42k. Interestingly, they charge $3,000 more for a manual transmission option which is normally cheaper on other brands (if even offered).

If that is your short list you can't really choose wrong! If you're a high mileage highway driver primarily I have read the Yokohamas last quite a long time (based on reviews 60k seems pretty typical with some making it over 80k!). I have the Avid Ascends (non-GT version) for 10k miles now and I have no complaints. They are fairly quiet, seem to be wearing evenly and slowly, have really nice wet traction, and safe enough light to medium snow performance. I would expect the GT's to be no different since they have a very similar tread pattern.

I have the sport trim so I did not have the HK speakers. However, when I upgraded only my speakers I used this model (I used the 9623 model, but this is the new equivalent model it looks like): https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R9633IM/Infinity-Reference-REF-9633ix.html? In my opinion, I have found them to be very balanced and produce a clear sound. It was recommended to me by multiple people to go with a very high sensitivity dB rating when keeping the stock headunit. If I had to do it again, I would get these speakers for the front only and keep the stock back speakers. Of the total improvement of sound, I would estimate the fronts contributed about 80% and the backs the last 20%. Crutchfield has fantastic customer service, and their plug and play harnesses made the process non-intimidating for someone like myself who had never done anything like this before. The only thing I wanted form the limited trim was the HK system which they did not offer in the sport, so it was an easy choice for me to spend $180 on new speakers compared to an extra $2k to move up a trim level to a car I didn't like as much (Personally not a fan of leather car seats and wood trim, and I liked the sport wheels design better).

Since you are open to opinions, here is my view: I agree that a drain and fill will only have a certain effect as it will only get out a limited amount of fluid. That being said, any bit should theoretically help, assuming the fluid is actually bad. The idea of a lifetime fluid isn't totally new. My 09' Corolla also has lifetime transmission fluid which has yet to be changed at 125k miles. My theory is that newer transmissions are much less susceptible to exposing transmission fluid to moisture, which is a primary source of fluid degradation. These studies looked at the effects of moisture on ATF, although not specifically Subaru's. A simplified summary of their findings says that there is insignificant fluid degradation in an uncontaminated (dry) sample. Another major factor of degradation is the temperature of the oil; however, this "should be" easier to control as the system can be designed to have sufficient cooling under expected operating conditions. So if the fluid doesn't degrade significantly under normal operating conditions, there would be no point in changing it - which is how I believe Subaru came up with their recommendation. They also recommend changing the fluid under severe conditions which they exclusively list as repeated trailer towing at 40k km. Since the manual clearly states the legacy is not intended for towing, they can get away with saying the fluid will last the lifetime of the car. So, if you use your car to get to point A to point B and you never have your ATF Temp warning light turn on, I personally wouldn't bother doing anything with your fluid. If you drive somewhere in between that of normal and towing (maybe mountain area, or you live in a very hot climate), then maybe do a drain and fill at some point. Even this is probably more just for piece of mind in practicality than actual need. And if you tow often against Subaru's recommendation. Change it based on their severe schedule. In my case, I personally like the CVT fluid degradation % reading you can get from an OBD2 reader and certain apps. I'm at ~44,000 miles and 3.2% fluid degradation. Based on my own arbitrary change interval, I will probably change out my fluid around 25% degradation. That will put me at around 350,000 miles. Based on around 15,000 miles a year, that will put my car around 23 years old - so no I probably won't be changing my fluid as my car will have probably reached its "lifetime" well before that. I would be ecstatic if my car hasn't completely rust out by that point! If you ever meet a Subaru engineer who personally works on specifying which fluid they put in their CVT that says to change it, then take his/her advise over mine or anyone else's on this forum!

Wow! I have never seen one this bad! Keep pushing SOA until it gets replaced, but I doubt you'll have any issue having them authorize your dealer to replace the unit for you under warranty. You would think the touch screen is some fancy new tech that was developed this year with how bad this one degraded.

A liter is quite a bit, but I would keep an eye on it while you're under warranty. If you want to try something in the mean time, you could get a new radiator cap to see if that helps at all as an inexpensive fix. I would also confirm there is no leaking from the hose connections or crack in the overflow tank. I probably lost 8oz of coolant every 5,000 miles or so when my car was new until I hit 20k miles or so. But the amount it uses has become less with time and I'll only need to put in a splash (~2oz) every 5,000 miles or so. (I don't really even need to, but I like keeping it at the full line when cold). A small amount of coolant loss however is not something to be overly worried about as the overflow bottle isn't pressure sealed, so you can lose some through there especially on extended trips when the coolant is hot for a long time. I would consider a liter a large amount. If you aren't content with watching and waiting(not sure hold long you have until your warranty is up), then I would definitely recommend contacting Subaru of America directly by phone. The customer service I received when I needed to call about the dealer not replacing my head unit at warranty was phenomenal. If you are by another dealership, I would try that too, as some dealerships are just better than others in terms of service.

I have a 17' Sport but mine does this as well. I never noticed it until you pointed it out. It isn't causing any issues for me though.

As far as I know, you cannot get just a replacement screen but would have to get a whole new headunit. A new OEM navigation headunit will cost nearly $1,000. You can find used ones on ebay for much less, but I don't know how much I would trust those to last. If you are going to replace it outside of the warranty, you would be much better served getting an aftermarket unit from a place like Crutchfield that has as little or as much functionality that you want.

Put some vinyl tint over the clear portion of the rear taillights. I got cheap tint on ebay and gave it a go. I like how it turned out and the installation was extremely simple. We'll see if it lasts, but for $6.50 for a 1ft x 5ft roll I can't complain if it doesn't. There is enough left over to cover them three times over probably as I expected to mess up quite a bit and get a lot of air bubbles, which luckily I avoid for the most part. If anyone is curious this is what I used and I spent about 45 minutes putting it on: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-x60-Glossy-Medium-Smoke-Black-Tint-Headlights-Fog-Taillight-Vinyl-Film/263486419787?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Vinyl Tint-min.pdf