crudzinskas

I don't think the point was to be anal with numbers. The point is to have the correct information in an easy to find place. If there are many answers out there for a specific question that only has one answer, then that creates confusion for anyone else looking for the answer. I'm sure Subaru's spec has taken into account that a typical wrench won't hit the set point torque perfectly.

I think he is suggesting the seat is fine, but you may need a new wife. Check your warranty restrictions on that before talking to her about it, as replacement can be a difficult process and most do not have access to a loaner while this is being performed.

I would just leave them alone and put the new pads on. No point in changing a perfectly good OEM rotor if you haven't been having issues with it. Just take note of the proper procedure for dealing with the rears/parking brake assuming you have to retract the rotor piston in order to get the pads to fit. Otherwise it should be a 30 minute job for the whole car and you're done! If you're feeling ambitious, grease the caliper slide pins and bleed the brakes to get some fresh fluid in there while you have the wheels off.

As far as practical performance, the OEM set up is perfectly suited to do its job. Max brake pressure often results in ABS turning on which means the tires are the limiting factor for stopping performance. From what I have read(but have not verified myself), Akebono seems to be the manufacture of the OEM pads. You can get these pads from RockAuto for ~$40 for each the front and back set. I'm completely happy with OEM as I have well over half of the pads remaining (about 2mm of wear on the front and back) at 53,000 miles. As far as rotors, drilled/slotted can sometimes increase brake pad temperature if they are not designed properly. For the price premium, you probably won't see any daily driving improvement. If you want them more for the looks, then that's a valid enough excuse for me lol. Good luck on your choice!

More like 3.5 years old. Only at 53,000 miles but I've been getting some chirping/squealing on wet mornings. The belt physically looked to be in good shape, clean, and did not have any visible cracking. All of the pulleys looked clean and rotating without any wobble. I put on a Carquest Dayco Belt from Advance Auto, PN #5060780. It was 25% off and I got an additional 20% cash back from my credit card for a random deal they had at the time which made it $18. It seems to have fixed the noise as it has been very wet lately and there is no squeaking anymore. I also wanted to try and rule out the automatic tensioner as the issue since that could be replaced under the powertrain warranty still, I believe. My cost of unexpected maintenance/repairs is up to $18 now. Not too shabby . Oh wait, I mean - "This car is an endless money pit! My (Insert $80,000) car never needed a new belt, first this now the head gasket is surely next, not to mention the CVT is about to explode!"

Yes I got that part number. I tried it because of your previous post actually. It looked identical and matched up perfectly when held side-by-side. I honestly don't know what was keeping it from fitting well. I put in the new OEM one, and it popped right in. I'll probably try a new WIX one next time I change the filter since I really do believe it was just a fluke that it didn't fit and they are about $10 cheaper than OEM for what looks like a good quality filter.

Put on a new V-Belt and put in a new engine air filter. Man, that automatic tensioner made it too easy to do - took about 5 minutes from start to finish! It was actually faster than the engine air filter as I tried the equivalent WIX filter but think I got one a little out of spec/warped as the air box around it would not close properly. I just ended up getting another OEM one for a few dollars more that fit just as expected.

Generally, things that would go bad under warranty happen sooner than later if they are actual manufacture defects. Since you car is now ~4 years old, it is relatively likely that most thing that would have failed due to defective parts has happened. In general, if you have the money to pay for a random small/large failure, it is cheaper to go that route than to buy a warranty. Or put $2k into a high interest savings account and only take money out when the repair would have been covered under warranty, or get a "free" yearly oil change with the interest you earn - but I digress. Considering your engine has had 48,000 miles worth of oil changes at 22,000 miles, the previous owner was likely pretty careful with the car. Or someone who really liked wasting synthetic oil on 3,000 mile changes lol.

I just did the same recently and I completely agree as I do a lot of night driving. I didn't want to be "that guy" with the annoying LED lights that blind everyone so I made sure to check the height and light pattern. I did notice that I had to aim the lights quite a bit higher after switching from the stock bulbs. Following the Subaru procedure for aiming headlights, the LED bulbs aimed about 4 inches lower than the stock bulbs. Adjusting them upward to the correct height further improved the output as expected. The lights almost give you the light distance of high beams while keeping the beam pattern low and focused so that you aren't blinding anyone.

Quickly comparing brand new MSRP's at a glance it looks like the Legacy will run right around $34k while the Genesis will be around $40k for about as similar equipment packages and set up (AWD/Horsepower) as you can get. For a sedan, I would call that a higher price range since it is where a lot of the luxury brands start. Note: This is for the G70 with AWD and the "elite" package compared to a fully loaded Legacy. The G80 starts at $42k. Interestingly, they charge $3,000 more for a manual transmission option which is normally cheaper on other brands (if even offered).

Since you are open to opinions, here is my view: I agree that a drain and fill will only have a certain effect as it will only get out a limited amount of fluid. That being said, any bit should theoretically help, assuming the fluid is actually bad. The idea of a lifetime fluid isn't totally new. My 09' Corolla also has lifetime transmission fluid which has yet to be changed at 125k miles. My theory is that newer transmissions are much less susceptible to exposing transmission fluid to moisture, which is a primary source of fluid degradation. These studies looked at the effects of moisture on ATF, although not specifically Subaru's. A simplified summary of their findings says that there is insignificant fluid degradation in an uncontaminated (dry) sample. Another major factor of degradation is the temperature of the oil; however, this "should be" easier to control as the system can be designed to have sufficient cooling under expected operating conditions. So if the fluid doesn't degrade significantly under normal operating conditions, there would be no point in changing it - which is how I believe Subaru came up with their recommendation. They also recommend changing the fluid under severe conditions which they exclusively list as repeated trailer towing at 40k km. Since the manual clearly states the legacy is not intended for towing, they can get away with saying the fluid will last the lifetime of the car. So, if you use your car to get to point A to point B and you never have your ATF Temp warning light turn on, I personally wouldn't bother doing anything with your fluid. If you drive somewhere in between that of normal and towing (maybe mountain area, or you live in a very hot climate), then maybe do a drain and fill at some point. Even this is probably more just for piece of mind in practicality than actual need. And if you tow often against Subaru's recommendation. Change it based on their severe schedule. In my case, I personally like the CVT fluid degradation % reading you can get from an OBD2 reader and certain apps. I'm at ~44,000 miles and 3.2% fluid degradation. Based on my own arbitrary change interval, I will probably change out my fluid around 25% degradation. That will put me at around 350,000 miles. Based on around 15,000 miles a year, that will put my car around 23 years old - so no I probably won't be changing my fluid as my car will have probably reached its "lifetime" well before that. I would be ecstatic if my car hasn't completely rust out by that point! If you ever meet a Subaru engineer who personally works on specifying which fluid they put in their CVT that says to change it, then take his/her advise over mine or anyone else's on this forum!

A liter is quite a bit, but I would keep an eye on it while you're under warranty. If you want to try something in the mean time, you could get a new radiator cap to see if that helps at all as an inexpensive fix. I would also confirm there is no leaking from the hose connections or crack in the overflow tank. I probably lost 8oz of coolant every 5,000 miles or so when my car was new until I hit 20k miles or so. But the amount it uses has become less with time and I'll only need to put in a splash (~2oz) every 5,000 miles or so. (I don't really even need to, but I like keeping it at the full line when cold). A small amount of coolant loss however is not something to be overly worried about as the overflow bottle isn't pressure sealed, so you can lose some through there especially on extended trips when the coolant is hot for a long time. I would consider a liter a large amount. If you aren't content with watching and waiting(not sure hold long you have until your warranty is up), then I would definitely recommend contacting Subaru of America directly by phone. The customer service I received when I needed to call about the dealer not replacing my head unit at warranty was phenomenal. If you are by another dealership, I would try that too, as some dealerships are just better than others in terms of service.

I have a 17' Sport but mine does this as well. I never noticed it until you pointed it out. It isn't causing any issues for me though.

Put some vinyl tint over the clear portion of the rear taillights. I got cheap tint on ebay and gave it a go. I like how it turned out and the installation was extremely simple. We'll see if it lasts, but for $6.50 for a 1ft x 5ft roll I can't complain if it doesn't. There is enough left over to cover them three times over probably as I expected to mess up quite a bit and get a lot of air bubbles, which luckily I avoid for the most part. If anyone is curious this is what I used and I spent about 45 minutes putting it on: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-x60-Glossy-Medium-Smoke-Black-Tint-Headlights-Fog-Taillight-Vinyl-Film/263486419787?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Vinyl Tint-min.pdf

Put in a new Duracell Group 25 battery from Sam's club. The OEM battery had been barely starting the car for most of the winter now so I wanted to swap it out before it completely died on me especially with the sub-zero temps we've had the past couple days. I felt it was a great deal for $90+tax, plus I got $20 back for trading in the OEM battery after I got the new one. For those interested it has 770CA @32F, 625CA @0F, and 95RC plus a 3 year free replacement warranty. I've read so many people getting these huge capacity and CCA batteries for their legacy but I'm glad I stuck with a pretty standard Group 25. The car started stronger at 0 degrees last morning than it did when I had purchased the car a few summers ago!

Do you have a link to where you purchased this? It's going to look great!

True, but also quicker and more convenient than a key when it is working fine. It also lets you lock your keys in the car and open it back up by pin code which is a cool feature that I use often. Thanks to Rowlette for posting the part, as for $30 this is something I'd replace in a heartbeat if mine were to go bad and is a cheap fix for an electrical component in a car.

I have a 2017 with 39k miles, but my car has done this since it was brand new. When it's cold the RPMs will be higher to allow things to come up to operating temperature. Once you are near operating temperature (about 15 minutes into your drive) it should behave normally. Depending on how cold it is, I will be driving at 3,000 RPMs at 35mph until the car is warmed up.

The US recommendation is only inspection of the fluid and every 30 months or 30,000 miles. Mine hasn't been changed or inspected at this point (35,000 miles). Personally, I'll probably check mine out around 50,000 miles and if it looks good let it go closer to 100,000 miles. Good to know, Thanks!

Was that the first time you had changed it? How did the fluid look? Was there a lot of shavings on the drain plug?

Sounds like you need to take the car to the eye doctor. You probably just need a new prescription. Anyways, I would just confirm the fuses are good. It's not really normal for them to blow, but it could just have been a one time thing that you can fix for cheap on your own if the dealer is far away from you. If you can't figure out the issue you obviously know to take it to the dealer and I'm curious to see if they try to fix it or just give you a new system and send yours off to their engineers to figure out what went wrong. I personally have only ever gotten the white "Eyesight" with the slash over it to come up signaling that it cannot "see."

As long as you have the apps installed on your iphone they should not be greyed out when you plug your phone in. Everything should work for you except for MirrorLink.

Washed the car for the first time this spring (finally a nice day). Clay barred the car for the first time - the car is almost 2 years old now. I was surprised how little contamination there was on the paint for not having a garage. Then I applied a cheap $5 ebay/amazon ceramic coating and so far it looks good. I was a bit nervous since the set came with no instruction or anything, but I figured the worst that can happen is that it eventually all crumbles off of the clear coat and the car is back where I started. The surface feels and looks great with it, and I'll see if it actually does anything for water shedding/easier cleaning once it rains later this week. If it looks good I'll probably get a few more 30mL bottles of it for how cheap it is, and it was honestly easier to apply and work with than a wax.

The wiper heaters are my favorite part! (To be fair there isn't too much else to get excited about in a windshield, haha) I've never had the wipers freeze to the windshield even if my entire windshield is just a layer of ice, and they really help reduce streaking to increase visibility in the winter by keeping the rubber warm. I don't think I'd want another car without them, unless I move someplace where the weather doesn't suck