Dalee1104

Alright I take it back. Literally the same drive home from the store i got the p0021 and p0011 code this time instead of just the one. DAM dropped 0.625, both ocv while driving were only at 9.4, avcs pegged at 0. Previously I only got the p0021 code but now I have both, is there a chance i bought some dodgy oil valves?

Using those 2 indeed. Reading both, the DAM is solid at 1.000. What's weird is over the past few days the avcs is starting to move around a little more. Just now for example under just regular driving advanced the left side to 18 and the right at 13, which is better then staying at 0 but isnt it bad if they advance not within 2 of each other?

I suppose I could have been confusing the 2, didnt really take a picture of the readings before the replacement. I'm getting up to about 9 if I'm wot but cruise around anywhere between 1 and 5. It just seemed odd to me but would you say those are average numbers? Dont really know what else to go off of

Made sure oil levels were good then let her warm up for about 10 mins before driving it for another 20 under different conditions. Gently and hard throttle, no change Part numbers were beck/arnley 0241957

Just searched the forums for about 2 hours and cant seem to find what my avcs numbers should look like. I may be missing something, anybody know a thread or site or anything that could point me in the right direction?

Made a post about my situation but didnt get much help, cant really find what I'm looking for on older threads. Basically the oil control valves were acting up with the p0021 code. Cleaned em, drove fine for a week, then my replacements came in and replaced both sides just to be sure. The ocv % is dead on with each other, stay synced nearly all the time. Weird part is my avcs isnt moving much. I got a 9 on left 8 on right and they always stay within 2 degrees but under all sorts of driving loads they mostly stayed at 0 or 1. Before the replacements they were actually moving up to the 40s but one was lagging hence the replacement. This cant be right? Did I miss something on the install? I mean they're super simple, cant imagine I messed anything up too bad? Again any help is greatly appreciated, just cant figure this one out

So a few days ago I was driving the car pretty hard on some canyon roads and got a check engine light for p0021. Did some reading and found the oil condition can be an issue and also the oil control valve could be sticky. Oil was only at 2500 miles but it was pretty dirty so I pulled both oil control valves and cleaned them with some wd-40. Driver side was pretty clean, passenger side was pretty gunked up. While I was there I pulled the banjo bolts for the avcs to see if they were still on there and sure enough the car didnt have any of the banjo filters. This is an 08 spec b so maybe that's why. I know they moved the turbo feed filter to below the turbo inlet pipe but didnt get to check that one due to time crunch. I ran a motor medic oil flush and changed the oil to end the day and the car seems to be doing fine. Then again the car seemed to be functioning totally fine even with the engine code, no rough idle or anything associated with the code. Weird thing is even after all that work at idle both avcs read 0 but both oil control valve duty cycles are pegged at 9.4. I thought those were numbers that throw engine lights? Driving the car the avcs seem to advance fairly the same left to right. Under full throttle they both went up to 42, under light driving they both move around 6 to 8 together so they're synced which is good I think. The oil control valves at full throttle had the left side at 75% and the right side at 70%. Are these numbers supposed to be what I'm expecting or is there a chance both the oil control valves failed? The ecu was reset so I dont have any cel any more and haven't had it come back but those numbers at idle still seem odd unless I'm just misguided. Also I took some data logs of the car on a stock tune and then on stage 2. Probably took them a week ago before the ocv issues. I have them on my laptop and everything I just dont know how to load them up to the sight lol any help is greatly appreciated

I love seeing the start of this thread and how many different cars you've worked on and then as soon as the subaru bug has bitten you just keep buying more and more of them lol I'm genuinely sad to see how your kids have treated poor Smokey

I'm only familiar with the 2.5 engines but as far as I know most things swap right over, the transmsissions I think depend on if it's an auto or a manual and what kind of drive ratios they have. As you know the uel headers only work if you have dual exhuast ports coming out of the heads. Other then that i think everything should swap over but somebody else here might have some better knowledge than myself I would imagine the transmission mounts should be the same, I got group N transmission and engine mounts to help hold things in place and make it a little stiffer

We actually do have an OBD reader and the torque app but I've never thought of trying to log the data. The OBD thing we have is this cheap little thing and it doesn't always "talk" to the car very well. Connections seem fidgety or just kinda not there. I'll have to do a pull and see what kind of g/s I'm getting though because I know that is an option on that thing

Damn okay so this is more in depth with the ecu than I thought. I just did that cuz it's so hard to justify such a bit portion or money to a single sensor but it legit controls everything (mine's from a junkyard and I'm running rich) done everything else so I wanted to test it before buying it to see if this one is even bad

I guess it would be hard to tell without seeing it on a graph in that case. I'm not completely sure what WOT stands for to be honest lol. But yeah we just placed a volt meter on the correct plugs and slowly increased the rpms. We didn't snap the throttle or anything but just continued the increase in throttle position with the throttle cable until the car sounded like it was about 4 k rpms. At around that mark the volt meter was picking up 2.9 volts so I was just wondering if there was a way to tell if that's good or bad

Okay so looking at those graphs, what is your MAF voltage supposed to jump up to when given throttle? I have the snorkus in and everything but the gas mileage is horrible. We did the voltage test and it bumps up to 2.9 volts with almost full throttle

Okay honestly where can I buy something such as jdm headlights or fog lights for a legacy gt. I want to buy the lighting all the way around eventually and also want some heated cloth seats but I can't find them anywhere online, any suggestions?

I could see that happening, I'm probably gonna double check that gooch area and make sure it's not leaking one bit. The only thing I haven't done is measured the flanges. Just eyeing it sitting next to my factory manifold they look close enough tho

Yeah I would send them back and get a refund too. That's really odd though, after reading that I tested mine thoroughly because I was worried about installing them and them not working. They were machine welded inside and tig welded on the outer so very good welds. There was no leaks after it was full with water, and the whole thing was consistent with being magnetic, and being stainless it was a little magnetic but not very. The only different type of metal was the flange itself which turned out to be steel

Pretty new to this thing so yeah noob. Was wondering if anybody had any experience with hella rallye lights and if I should purchase the 500 black magic series and mount them lower on my brush guard or higher up?