Dalee1104

They were beck & arnley so they were supposed to be an OEM replacement. Its just weird how they are reading a duty cycle half of the time and then sometimes they just stop reading all together. Are you thinking they might be those? I wouldn't be completely opposed to that

Bringing back this old thread with some more issues that really kind of have me stumped again. After replacing both ocv solenoids, replacing the driver side intake cam sprocket, and pulling the banjos I got the car back and drove about a day before getting both p0011 and p0021. Generally that's turbo failure from what I've read but the turbo has only 20k miles on it and shows no signs of failure. I noticed when the cel pops up though that both sides of the ocv duty cycle just stop working. Instead of being responsive and advancing with the throttle, they sit pegged at 9.4 no matter what. Did I purchase faulty ofcvs? What should I look at next?

I feel ya man, regardless, keep up the posts lol I'm sure I'm not that only one here that enjoys watching this build lol

Looks like you've been building a mean performance machine man, super excited to see the end results

Okay so Lucas it is and hope for the best lol might just start saving to find a junk yard ej251 to just drop in it when this one goes

I suppose that is true. I can definitely try. It know it always sounds louder on the drivers side by the wheel well. Sort of underneath the engine gets decently loud. I've heard people mention piston slap and rod knock, what's the difference? Is whatever I'm hearing possibly piston slap?

Okay I'll probably run that as well then. Checked the gaskets out and there is a slight leak, go figure, but not the same sound as I'm hearing that has me worried. Still basically above 3k get a pretty rowdy metallic sound so I'm thinking internal. Might just try and keep my rpms as low as absolute possible and see how long she'll last

Okay I'll check that later today. Do you guys run any Lucas or anything like that on your older engines? Opposed to it for any reasons?

I'll have to pull the iacv and clean or replace it. Likely replace the O2 sensors as well for safe measure.

 

And honestly that's what I'm worried about twisty, I've heard what rod knock sounds like in a few or my buddies subarus who forgot to check they're oil but the only difference is on this outback its much quieter, but still a deeper pitch than valves. On top of that its only on start up and only above 3k rpms. Once shes running if I keep her around or below 3500 rpms it seems fine, havent really hammered it out of fear I'm on borrowed time with this engine. What does this sound like to you guys? Worn crank bearings maybe? If I run heavy oil, possibly some Lucas if that helps, and keep her low rpms, do you guys think she should last a bit longer?

 

On a side note I have noticed I'm getting a decent amount of smoke coming out of the tailpipe when the engine load is increased like up a hill or something. I'm guessing worn rings causing a bit of oil blow by? Smoke is blackish in color

I did have an absolutely massive exhaust leak before the cat but after installing the headers I had the shop replace all the gaskets and seal her up. The p0171 may be residual then as I didnt clear the codes yes but being that I have no more leaks, I'm curious as to why the car was intermittently lean while logging

Hello all, I've been around these forums awhile with my previous cars and have recently secured a new to me 02 outback. It's the base model and has 260k miles. Picked it up for 1000 bucks and the head gaskets, timing belt, and clutch have all been replaced fairly recently which is why I decided to go through with the purchase. Now I'm getting a little weary. Driving it for about a month and keeping the rpms low it developed a really bad exhuast leak which I thought was the source of a p0171 code I pulled. Saved up some and just installed the uel headers and had the hole system welded up all nicely. Now that the car is nice and quiet I've been able to hear some slight clackity noises upon start up and also higher rpms. That being said I've been keeping up on the oil and maintenance and keep it below 3k

 

The reason I'm posting here is because I've ran into an issue that kinda stumped me. I checked the codes for safe measure and plugged in my torque pro app and pulled a pending p0420, an active p01507, and a still active p0171. I was checking all my screens on torque and everything seems okay intake wise, I checked with starting fluid for a vacuum leak. Only thing that really scares me is the afr is pegged at 22. With the afr pegged extremely lean the short term fuel trim is also clear up to a 35% at idle. With the afr pegged so damn high I dont want to drive it because it's an old tired engine and running max lean is asking for it to blow I feel like. I'm just kinda looking for help on what this could be? What controls the afr? Is it the afr sensor solely? And if so how do I know if mine is bad? The car has a semi hesitant idle but nothing really too bad. How can I fix this car for a reliable daily driver

Might be a pain but still worth pulling out lol not going to risk an engine over a few hours worth of work tops

Sounds right, D25 for the 07-09 and the B25 for the 05 to 06 correct? B25 mounted on the backside of the head, D25 under turbo inlet. Regardless, I think I'd rather have to pull it off the head if I had to choose lol PITA

Thank you for that video, super helpful. That thing is right beneath the turbo and I let pipe. What do you think the easiest way to get to that is? Pull the turbo?

That sounds about right in that case minus the turbo free location. But yes 4 sounds correct, worst case scenario I still have 2 left to pull. In terms of oil I use 5w-30 pennzoil platinum full synthetic. Would you recommend a higher weight? Is more oil pressure a good thing or can it be bad as well?

If the nub is a sign of a filter then maybe I dont have one? Theres no nub on the drivers side banjo behind the timing cover on the 08 spec b. As for the others I thought there was only 4? The two on top of the heads for the avcs, the turbo feed, and then the drivers side one behind the timing? Is there more? I've pulled the 2 on top of the heads and there was no banjo in place. Havent pulled the turbo feed yet due to being under the turbo inlet pipe, gonna need some time to work on that one

They do indeed have that one on the drivers side. As for the turbo feed I was following that thread but that's for an 05 to 07. In 08 and 09 they moved the turbo feed banjo. Didnt realize until I unbolted the uppipe support bracket

Interesting, mine dont seem accessible from the rear? It's like right under the turbo inlet pipe right before it meets the turbo. I haven't found a right up for pulling that guy out, sure would be nice to find lol it's different on 08s but most have a write up on 05 through 07

Oil level is brand new 5w-30, full synthetic pennzoil. I've checked the banjos above each avcs, in 08 they moved the turbo feed banjo from behind the passenger side head to directly beneath the turbo inlet pipe. It sounds like it might be the one behind the timing cover, I didnt pull that one yet simply because the difficulty but I may have to. I'm gonna be really upset if i pull it and theres no banjo screen lol because them I'm left guessing again. Thank you

Laziness does seem to be sticking to the left side. That being said, what do I do if the cam gear is bad/contaminated? What's the next step moving forward?

Oh yeah you lost me then buddy lol sorry about that. Hopefully somebody can be a little more helpful!

I actually do not, checked to see if the car had any and the banjo screens have been pulled out. I'll swap the ofcvs when I get a second and update this when I do

I haven't had this issue or heard of it really much but I'm sure theres some sort of adhesive to stick the button back on for the cheap route. As long as it doesnt gunk up the functions of the switch I feel like that should work

Sure enough some driving and the DAM has hopped back up to 1.000. Car runs fine and seems to be doing nicely but I've been watching the avcs and ofcvs, ofcvs are actually working ever since and they seem to be doing well but the avcs seems to be off. I have my left side advancing to 21 and my right side advancing to 15. Does this mean the driver side is still over advancing? What do I need to do to fix this? Keep my car on the road a reliable daily driver?

Yeah idk if this is a uncommon issue but I havent been finding much. Thank you much for the responses. After I restarted the engine they started working again, they just seek iffy as hell. I'll try putting the old ones but should I clear the engine code or leave it there to see if the ecu turns it off eventually?