Dalee1104

I'll definitely keep an ear on it, I'm not sure what year you have but I do know they made changes to the banjos from the prefacelift and postfacelift models. Maybe that plays into it some? I'm just thankful I've been lucky so far but really relieved I got a warranty on this guy recently applied. I'm just battling some fine knock stuff, actually uploaded a datalog on my other post but no responses yet lol

There are definitely some more knowledgeable people in this thread than I but if your building good boost levels and your feedback knock and fine knock learn arent going crazy then I probably wouldnt worry too much about it. I myself am battling a slight feedback knock issue

I had that happen to me as well, was on the highway and suddenly dropped to 0.000 out of nowhere. Milked it to the nearest gas station and topped off on some fresh shell of the highest octane available to me, I think 92 at the time, and then a few drives in boost and the dam started to hop back up incrementally. Each time I hit boost with the fresh gas in it it would hop back up until I was at 1.000 again with no issues

To me it kind if sounds like you might have a large air pocket in your cooling system. When you go to change your fluids just bleed the coolant really well. If its gonna be a minute before you do the fluid change I'd bleed her right away. Overheating from a simple air pocket could cause larger issues

 

But also yes, pretty much everything NORU said, large importance on the uppipe and turbo

FWIW when it happened to me dealer said to use OEM only, not aftermarket. Sucks since these aren’t cheap (think I paid high 80s/pc for both on rockauto, close to $200 with shipping but better than close to $200/pc at my dealer) but that’s not something you want to skimp on either, since soon after I got that code, bye bye went my turbo.

 

Damn that's some bad luck my friend, but I agree. It was 200 per sensor at subaru and 80 at rockauto. I never took my car in so I didnt know that these were one of those items that required oem. Luckily I got them swapped back out without much harm done

okay grabbed a datalog on the way home. i noticed a few hesitations probably a quarter the way there but had no open roads stuck in traffic so towards the end i was actually able to build some boost

9-2-2019 troubleshooting.csv

Oh damn I didnt even consider that. It is the stock intercooler with 127k miles and it's been running 18 psi for probably about a year

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I'm trying to purchase a grill from their website currently and I emailed both the standard email and Jason with a question about the badge and havent gotten a response. Are they still up and running and selling parts?

I'll try it just once, worst case I pop my engine and get a warrantied new one right lol

Actually yes I did, I reset it for replacing the ocvs which I recently had an issue with. Sort of a semi update tho, pull on to my road and have a straight stretch I usually like to let the spec b stretch her legs a bit and she didnt feel as great. So I slowed down and started paying attention, you must be right with the boost like because now I can't peak past 15psi. Stock is 16psi and on stage 2 I'm usually around 18psi. On top of the that my DAM was all over the place so I pulled her in and left her alone gonna drive it subtly tomorrow. Im not sure if I'm getting hit with a double whammy or just one thing and over analyzing.

 

I dont have time to check tonight but tomorrow i can take a datalog on the way home from work. Which items should I log? I know (at least I think) you can change what the catalogs actually record? If that's the case I'll log those and then upload them tomorrow evening. My issue is time, I'm not sure if I'll have time to pull my intercooler and look for this boost peak tomorrow, any tips other than starting fluid?

Thank you for the info, I kinda thought he might have kinda half assed it tbh. I actually do not have a vagcom cable, I'm still very new to all this world of tuning.

 

To add on to the hesitations, if I had a boost or vacuum leak wouldnt I see that in boost levels?

 

Update: today on driving in normal condition I'm noting a lot more of these hesitations and lack of power, they are now happening very frequently. Is there a chance my fuel pump might actually be crapping out on me? They dont really feel like a vac leak and my boost levels read normal

On a side note that kinda has me thinking it could be fuel pump is lately I've noticed sometimes the car doesn't accelerate as smoothly as it could. It's only sometimes so it could be me over analyzing it or its completely in my head but the other day I went to accelerate in 2nd gear and right when your about to build boost and accelerate its like the car hesitated. I didnt get that pulling feel of boost and I glanced at my AP and at that exact moment the car showed a -8 on the feedback knock so I let off the gas and babied it. Not sure what that could be but it only happens occasionally, instead of smooth accelerations theres hesitations in it

I think it was this little fancy computer thing you plug in to obd and look at everything from there, he was doing some equation with the fuel trims so thats a little beyond me. I guess my thought process with the fuel pump was that it's cheap, and to build more power in the future I should upgrade it, and if the fuel pump doesn't do anything then I'm looking at the regulator and injectors next correct?

Okay I'll definitely keep digging then, still learning all the acceptable parameters in these cars when it comes to tuning. I might upgrade the fuel pump in the meantime considering its cheap and easy and might eliminate some of the lean issues I'm having. I do still hear some rattling on a down rev so I'll keep searching but I'm confused what to look for, all the exhuast and heatshields and such ate tight and squared away

I completely agree. It sucks to spend the money on these supposedly oem replacements just to find out they don't work and must be purchased from subaru instead

Bringing back an old thread as an update for the spec b. I ended up pulling all banjos to no avail, even replaced the avcs actuators again to no avail, car kept throwing this damn code. So I said screw it and got those ocvs offered to me from infosecdad and boom, ocvs started working perfectly. I suppose these are another one of those items that have to be OEM replacements, the back & arnley ones i got from rockauto did not work one bit and never did apparently

Okay so found a really rattling heat shield on the up pipe. Got thay fixed and now it seems my numbers are better but still there. -2.81 is the highest number I've seen up to 3rd gear. After 4th then I saw a -4.21.

 

My boss also checked my fuel trims and fuel pressure while i was busy and said with the uppipe fixed that the numbers seem to be okay. I might take a datalog just in case. Are these numbers average? Should I still consider replacing my fuel pump sooner rather than later?

 

And that brings me to my next point, can I upgrade the fuel pump to a walbro of some sort as a supporting mode and run the car as is or will it require a tune? Does the ecu dictate how much fuel gets to the injectors? If it does require a tune is an E-tune a decent option? No dynos near me

Actually just work at a smaller shop called subie solution's. I have been putting 92 octane in it. I know some people are particular about what brand gas they use? I just get shell gas because it's near my house

 

I have a fuel pressure test in the form of a psi gauge so I'll have to run that but nothing to test the regulator, I'll take a peak and see what happens

Interesting in my accessport it didnt display any changes in the DAM and in boost it showed the highest afr at 12.7? That's really really weird to me, if the car is in fact making these changes why isnt it showing me a drop in dam or something?

 

The car is stage 2 with a 3 inch catted downpipe and 3 inch piping from there back and a k&n drop in panel filter. Other then that shes bone stock.

 

As for the fueling i thought these cars didn't have fuel filters? At least not one accessible? The car has about 127k miles and I'm the 3rd owner, have only had it for a year so no idea how other owners have treated it. I change oil at 3k or sooner depending on the condition and always keep up on maintenance when I can. I'm actually a Subaru mechanic, just starting out so I've only been doing easy stuff like pulling engines out of the NA rigs, still trying to learn. But yeah that being said i try my best to take care of my cars to the best of my abilities because I'm going to want to have fun with the car.

 

As far as my knowledge goes I believe the fuel pump and filters are running the same stock ones from the factory, never been replaced

just kidding i was looking at the wrong gauge, afr stays below 12 in boost.

 

 

first time trying to figure out how to upload a data log but heres the one on the way home from work. the drive is pretty short but about halfway through that drive i switched the car into sport sharp mode

8-26-19 stg 2 spec b.csv

Oh damn really? I thought ideal afr was 14.7 so I'm supposed to be a little rich in boost not lean. Okay so I can clean the MAF or should I replace it? Same for the 02, test or replace. Can the accessport measure fuel pressure? i have a little dial gauge that you can hook up to the fuel lines but cant really be in boost with load while holding still. I can look at injector duty cycle and those usually get up to about 70%, highest I've ever seen is 77% should I be seeing higher percentages at WOT.

 

Also if I'm super lean shouldn't I be getting an engine light for extreme lean? Reason I ask is I actually have a warranty on the car but they usually can't take action until I have a check engine light. On top of that the warranty isn't aware that the car isnt stock so I cant be like "hey so I was getting improper readings on my accessport". What should I do? Warranty is the very nice, zero deductible that covers pretty much everything.

It doesnt occur in neutral or park while revving but weirdly it does occur on a downrev which I thought was pretty odd. AFR seems to check out okay. 14.7 at idle, then as I step on it it starts rich low rpms, mid rpms are around the 14ish range, and then towards the very end with full boost about 18psi itll go up to about 16ish which I believe is a little lean but I think I've heard that engines lean out slightly in the higher rpms

Okay that's a very informative write up. So now understanding what the ecu is doing in scenarios of knock and how its pulling timing, the question I have for my car I guess is why. Knowing that its knocking upon load no matter what, why is it knocking? What's a common cause and what's some ways to remedy this?

So I'm basically seeing numbers in the negatives in both fine knock learning and knock feedback. I think I saw a positive of 1.35 once but since then it's nothing. Arent these guys supposed to rest around 0. Every time I hit boost it increases. Doesnt matter what gear or what rpms but I get a feedback knock of around -2.4 to -4.0 and a fine knock learning ranging clear up to -12 sometimes. What does this mean? I've tried checking for vacuum leaks and rattling items. Downpipe has been replaced with an aftermarket setup so I can eliminate that as well as the rest of the exhuast system. I have factory exhaust manifolds still in place. Car runs and drives nicely. No rough idle or anything of that sort

I'm cool with that, I'll PM the address