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choover1101

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Posts posted by choover1101

  1. There is little to no information to be found about replacing the 4ATE transmission cooler from the bolt holes forward. This is the beginning of my research into my trans cooler supplement.

     

    Transmission Oil Cooler Output Screw PN- 31292AA000

    -Thread Size\Pitch- M16 1.5

    -Overall Bolt Length- 37.07 MM

    -Bolt Head Depth- 5.01 MM

    -Bolt Shaft Length- 32.06 MM

    -Bolt Shaft Length Minus Castle- 29.27 MM

    -Bolt Shaft Diameter- 16.00 MM

    -Bolt Head Width- 20.94 MM

    -Oil Pass Holes- 2 Opposed in a recessed oil passage.

     

    This bolt retains a ball and spring check valve to prevent the torque converter from draining back through the transmission cooler system and into the pan and harming the torque converter. To replace this bolt with a different setup will require installing a check valve in line.

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  2. There is little to no information to be found about replacing the 4ATE transmission cooler from the bolt holes forward. This is the beginning of my research into my trans cooler supplement.

     

    Transmission Oil Cooler Return Screw PN- 801914010

    -Thread Size\Pitch- M14 1.5

    -Overall Bolt Length- 31.79 MM

    -Bolt Head Depth- 5.07 MM

    -Bolt Shaft Length- 26.72MM

    -Bolt Shaft Diameter- 13.97 MM

    -Bolt Head Width- 18.97 MM

    -Oil Pass Holes- 4 Evenly spaced around shaft alternating staggered height. High Low High Low

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  3. I re-did the MSD swap. I got this loom in after doing it the first time and wanted to try it out.

    Parts I Used:

    ---MSD Coil PN-8239 (MSD)

    ---Wiring Pigtail PN-180-0715 (Beck Arnley)

    ---Factory Subaru Coil Harness

    ---NGK Plug Wires (1997) PN-8931 (NGK)

    I cut the factory harness off of the stock coil as close as I could to the coil, giving me as much working length as possible.

     

    After stripping and matching up the wires:

    Orange---Yellow

    Black---Red

    Blue---Grey

     

    I soldered and used heat-shrink to secure and protect them.

     

    Once the wires were finished I bolted the MSD on to the car with 2-M6 Bolts.

    I considered making an adapter plate, but since I was working on this during my lunch hour i decided just to finish it.

     

    Once the coil was bolted in I plugged in the wires for testing.

    My spark plug wires lined up properly and I did not need to cross them.

     

    After testing I pulled the harness back off and removed the pins from the plug end on the factory Subaru side of the harness using a small screwdriver.

     

    Once the plug was off I slipped on the wire loom and heat-shrinked it to keep the ends from fraying.

     

    I then plugged the wires back into the stock Subaru plug and reinstalled the harness into the car.

     

    Performance change:

    I had a check engine light before this and was getting 15mpg (knock sensor cel) I replaced both the MSD and the knock sensor on the same day. I cannot confirm the gas mileage loss that is noted by many who have done this. The weekend after I drove 4.5 hours to Amarillo and 4.5 hours back averaging 25 mpg on the highway.

     

    In the actual felt performance area I would say I noticed a difference. Once again I did the knock sensor the same day so with the check engine light removed the computer would have allowed the engine to make more power.

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  4. Today I did the tie rod ends and had planned to do a wheel bearing swap as well, but my driver outer wheel bearing race was stuck in the steering knuckle. I attempted to press it out with a 20 ton standing press but this did not work. The plan is to order in a set of 04-07 WRX steering knuckles in Monday. So i can clean and prep them for an easy swap. The car will be sitting on a lift without a front suspension until this is completed. If anyone has any advice or warnings about the swap I would love to hear them. Also I have already disabled my ABS so the sensor location change does not affect my car.

     

    Idiot's guide to mechanic-ing. There apparently is a lock ring that I did not see because of all the grease and damage to the outer race. I am still doing the swap but now the cause is my own fault.

  5. Problem: At highway speeds releasing throttle caused passenger suspension to dip down and drag.

    My Solution: Remove ABS relays and warning bulb.

    Diagnosis: ABS light known previous brake issues and known clean wheel speed sensor on passenger front wheel.

     

    Problem: Driver front disk brake shield wearing against rotor when turning right or maintaining straight course.

    My Solution: Replace outer tie rod ends and wheel bearing.

    Diagnosis: Worn outer tie rod ends noticed and when turning right the driver tire bears additional pressure causing the tie rod to flex into the brake shield. Checked for wheel bearing play.

  6. Finished Projects:

    MSD swap. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5468607&postcount=18

    ---Guide used: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/msd-coil-into-subaru-step-step-photos-152338.html?t=152338&highlight=msd+coil

    --- Coil PN-8239 (MSD) $72 (coupon) Local Pep Boys

    ----Wiring Pigtail PN- 180-0715 (Beck Arnley) $9.40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B58377Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    --- NGK Plug Wires (1997) PN-8931 (NGK) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RM6MN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    Thermostat replaced:

    ---Thermostat PN- 21200AA072 (Subaru) $19.05 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IGZQ0WS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    ---Thermostat Gasket PN- 21236AA010 (Subaru) $5.71 https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-Thermostat-Gasket-21236AA010/dp/B00C3LXENY/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=01x9weo69%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=4V1RT9SGYQ35C5W31KPJ

    ---Upper Radiator Hose PN- 21851 (Gates) $11.34 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2SAGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    ---Lower Radiator Hose PN- 21852 (Gates) $8.90 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2Y4K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    Hood and Fender replaced: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5463132&postcount=4385

    ---I discovered the elusive snorkus and decided not to tame the beast. I felt it was most comfortable in its natural habitat. Still needs paint on the hood trying to find a non Dupli-color match for the factory silver. Rustoleum Titanium Silver is a little dark see fender in link. I found a semi match. Rustoleum Hammered Silver hides repairs and defects in the paint. The match is close enough.

     

    Tie Rod Ends replaced PNx2- ES3712 (Moog) $28.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QR12FY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    Brake Upgrade:

    ---Replaced Front Brakes with 2004 Wrx https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc2373-26/overview/year/2004/make/subaru/model/impreza

    ---Replaced Rear Brakes with 2004 Legacy Turbo https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-kc3124-26/overview/year/2004/make/subaru/model/legacy

     

    04-07 WRX Steering Knuckle Swap:

    Left PN-28313AE030 (Subaru) (Ebay) $75 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Subaru_2004_WRX205-AT-4WDWAGON/HOUSING-FRONT-AXLE-LEFT/49238038/28313AE030.html

    Right PN-28313AE020 (Subaru) (Ebay) $80 http://parts.cleobaysubaru.com/p/Subaru_2004_WRX205-AT-4WDSEDAN/HOUSING-FRONT-AXLE-RIGHT-----------------FOR-ABS/49238037/28313AE020.html

    Wheel Bearing PNx2- 517008 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 55.58 pr

    Wheel Hub PNx2- 930501 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 36.46 pr

    Ball Joint PNx2- K9513 (Moog) (Rock Auto) $ 47.58 pr

    Inner Wheel Seal PNx2- 710464 (National\Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.58 pr

    Outer Wheel Seal PNx2- 710463 (Timken) (Rock Auto) $ 7.34 pr

    Wheel Bearing Retainer PNx2- CIR176 (SKF) (Rock Auto) $ 7.54 pr

    Spindle Nut PNx2- 615160 (Dorman) (Rock Auto) $ 4.84 pr

     

    Outback SUS Strut Swap: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5604916&postcount=21

     

    Custom Strut Spacers: .5" Front 1" Rear HDPE cut at work.

  7. The aim and design of this thread is to search out and describe/note information that is not only second gen specific but is second gen applicable.

    This is not designed to replace your own personal searching but there have been questions i have not been able to find the answer to that I believe should be available. This is my first large post/thread ever so a little basic vehicle information:

     

    1996

    Subaru

    Legacy

    GT

    2.5

    4ATE

    230,000ish miles

    MSD swap

    Spectre air filter

    2004 WRX Front Brakes

    2004 Legacy Rear Brakes

    2004 WRX Front Steering Knuckles

     

    otherwise stock

     

    I plan to post links to many threads/posts i feel are useful to each area and quote as needed.

    If this is an issue for any rules I may have missed or if anything needs to be changed please notify me and I will do so as needed.

     

    Also, please if you would like help me think out ideas.

     

    General Info Sticky: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7365&postcount=1

    Chassis Code Stuff : http://www.subyclub.com/topic/3500-subaru-model-engine-codes-explained/?p=115447

    ----- http://www.subyclub.com/topic/797-subaru-engine-and-transmission-code-deciphering/?p=16808

    ----- http://oakos.com/wrx/chassis_codes.htm

    Reading Your VIN : http://www.cars101.com/subaru/vin.html

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