rebourne

Completely off topic, but this depth of experience you are tapping into and generously sharing is _slightly_ undermined by the minions avatar taunting us into One. More. Psi.

TL;DR P90X3, pull up bar with assistance bands Track calories diligently with something like My Fitness Pal Skip breakfast so you can have a more satisfying lunch and dinner I did T25 two years ago. It needed no equipment except light dumbbells you can get at Target. But a bit too dancy and coordination for this two left footed guy. I didn't stick with it. It worked okay. Last year, in January I started P90x3 and did it 5-6 times a week. 30-35 minutes with cool down. You need a pull up bar. It's the huge difference versus T25. I needed a 75lb helper band (3 x 25lb bands) to do the pull ups. The P90x3 diet didn't work for me. I was getting stronger, but not dropping weight. When I started detailed calorie tracking with My Fitness Pal, it started working. The first 90 days took about 100ish days with sickness, life, etc. But i worked hard and still kept my job and family happy. I rolled immediately into round two of P90x3. The second round you're more efficient because the newness is gone. A few weeks in I switched up the diet to the Lean Gains, Rippedbody.jp style of Intermittent Fasting. IMO the main significance of IF is to skip breakfast to have a more satisfying lunch and dinner. Now we were talking. Over the next 3-4 months I dropped .75lbs a week while gaining strength and dropping weight. Oh and yes it took some adjustment to skipping breakfast. Grumpy cat meme. But give it two to three weeks. Try loading up on decaf if you're a coffee drinker. At the end of the second 90, I changed things, but for me, the P90x3 really kick started it for me, and worked. 11 months later I'm down 5-6" in pants size, down 30 lbs, and way stronger. I was using 3 helper bands to do pull ups, but now i use no bands and 15lbs of plates in a back pack. So that 30 lbs lost doesn't show the muscle gained. I'm a smallish guy, 5' 7", for reference. My guidance for those that ask me: - muscle work with cardio second - Track calories with my fitness pal (mfp) - Adjust calories every 2-3 weeks if a tweak is needed My wife didn't have time to work out, but she still dropped 20 lbs by just skipping breakfast and diligently tracking calories in mfp (basically Intermittent Fasting). I don't recommend that because diet alone means ultra low calories and you'll like the body shaping effects of the workouts. But on weeks you can't workout, once you learn calorie tracking with something like mfp , you'll know how to maintain until you can get back on it. Sorry if this has turned a bit long. I can squat "ass to the grass" and pick up both my 32lb four year olds without hurting myself. I didn't have the flexibility or strength to do that two years ago when they were half the weight. Kinda proud of that.

Oh, my DVR is already set. Someone whip up a cafe press shirt with an outline of the Angry Panda and "Stay Tuned" underneath it. http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=2159&pictureid=10325 If LGT needed a catch phrase, i think we've found it.

Those huge ass, low hanging, exhaust tips scrape exiting nearly any kind of ramp or drive way. If i can get a good angle, they don't touch, but it's not always possible. Been carrying more people and stuff than usual these holidays and that's not been helping at all... Sadly, i hardly even flinch any more. It's only when the scraping exceeds a touch and continues for a second or two that i cry inside. Having said all that... It's sounds great, was dirty cheap, and it isn't worth my time or money to attempt to "improve" it right now.

Still a fan!

Hallelujah!!

Looks fantastic! What's was your time investment per side? Power tools or hand?

Drop the exhaust aft of the downpipe? Or just remove the center section?

Oh crap, I just read this whole thread, beginning to here! It was liking watching a drama-mystery series on Netflix and having no last episode with the resolution of all the drama!! ie: sub'd.

Oh, but it sounds so good!

Yup! Heck yeah... Between 2k and 3k it can be powerful. Your ears take a beating while pulling a hill in the 2.5k range. This is not my bff exhaust. But she's a fun mistress, the wife likes her still and she makes the kids giggle way more often than complain. Speaking of drone and kids. We were out and about this weekend and my 4 yo's really needed a nap, but we didn't have a place to do that. I put the gear lever and throttle in "mega drone" and within 7 minutes both were knocked the F out. Adjusted out of drone range and the wife and I wasted some gas over enjoyable adult conversation, and a few U turns, before arriving at our destination. Win-win. dropping into 4th, bringing revs above 3k drastically reduces the drone, when the freeway isn't full speed. Probably hurts gas mileage, but hardly compared to my stop and go commute. As K. Block says #JustAintCare.

The muffler tips scrape coming out of driveways and parking lots. I have to do some crazy diagonal stuff to prevent it. They'd fit better with shorter tips or tuck the mufflers up with turn downs.

right 3/4 back, slight angle left 3/4 left side

I posted this in another thread here: Been too busy prepping for my twins 4yo birthday, and being sick with a fever to do anything since slapping those on. There's a mild clunk over certain parking lot speed rear bumps, but other than that it's working out. I need to get it up in the air to see if everything's where I left it, or if it's shifted. I'll try to get a few better pics this week. I haven't lived with them for a whole week yet, but I did get about an hour of low traffic (for LA) freeway driving in addition to my normal commuting, so this is a short term review: Love the tone at idle and off throttle. Pull to redline sounds sick. They drone too loud between 2k and 3k, when slowly increasing speed and especially when climbing hills, but drops fast to zero exhaust noise starting at 3.1k. By 3.5k I can hear my tires much louder than the exhaust. And it's wonderful from there to redline. With my small diameter tires 70-80 is in the sweet spot and I'm learning to keep it in that rpm range on the freeways by dropping to 4th as it starts to boom. Pretty easy. I can hear the kids whisper in the backseat. It's not the ideal trade off, but it's far better than I expected. We're driving to Yosemite in October though, so not sure if I'll swap them out for the stocks or not. Except for the 2k-3k drone, it's quieter than the wife's EvoX. She says she's had worse on her cars, but the drone is pretty bad in that zone. A pressure that's borderline hurting my ears.

Installed some mufflers off a used LGT catback exhaust I picked up. Stock OBXT versus the ProTuningLab/generic/ebay muffler: Left side clearance: Right side clearance: Front hanger (if the bumper is the "front") is using extended hangers, 3" center to center on the holes. My local Napa stocked them. Left side: Right side: Left side back is using a 2.5" hanger (stock is 1.75ish): Right side back is using a stock hanger. I had to adjust the mount on the downpipe, and use a longer hanger on the Y to get the left muffler piping away from the sway bar. The CBE came with a mid and Y, that I'm not using right now, mostly because without a resonated mid pipe the system would be really loud. My ultimate plan is to ditch the ProTuningLab cans, install the mid and Y with a Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator, and a pair of good muffs with a little rumble but not too much drone. 3" mid pipe and 2.25" Y: Or maybe something completely different, using the mid, Y, a cut out and ...? we'll see

Alignment finally done. Rears were at -1.9, and fronts were way toe'd out. Now at 0 toe and -1.25 all around. Really hooks in the corners (for a mild street alignment, I'm really happy!), steering feel is way improved, and looks better. The rear wasn't benefiting from all that negative camber in looks or performance. Need to clean it up and get some better pics. Alignment notes: Only extra parts I have are the Whiteline KCA399 camber adjusting upper bushings. The rear toe is 0 in the rear with around 50% of the adjustment available. No toe arms needed. My alignment guy would have preferred a lower control arm to adjust, like the KCA124 or Megan's, versus the bushing one, because it required pulling the wheel off to adjust the camber, then putting it back on and re-measuring. But he still got it done first try, and I won't be making repeated adjustments, so it's a good budget solution.

Took the lazy way out and had AQ install the catless up and Cobb down pipes. flashed stage 2 OTS. Updated first page of the thread with all the recent updates.

Swapped out the stock OBXT wheels for some used Enkei Imolas. The fitment and tire size isn't exactly what I want, but the price was great. They'll suffice for now. The tires are slightly taller than stock LGT size, but much smaller than stock OBXT. Here's a bunch of numbers: stock 17x7 +48 w/ 225/55/17 ~49 lbs measured 26 1/2" diameter, measured Enkei Imola 18x8 +40 w/ 225/40/18 ~42.5 lbs measured 24 3/4" diameter, measured Speedometer reads a whopping 9 mile too fast. 80 indicated is only 71mph as read by GPS via Waze. The LGT ABS sensor swap is calling my name. Overall the car sits 3/4" lower due to the smaller diameter. Corner heights before and after: Stock wheels w/ 225/55/17s with about 60% tread left LF 25 15/16 LR 25 7/8 RF 26 1/8 RR 25 15/16 18x8 +40 w/ 225/40/18 with about 30% tread left LF 25 1/8 LR 25 -- RF 25 5/16 RR 25 3/16 So far they feel great. Tires are a bit noisier, which just emphasizes that I need some exhaust noise (that'll be another entry soon, I hope). Pics (My camera doesn't suck, I'm purposely blowing out the highlights so we can see the wheel gap clearly): Before: After (drove around to settle the suspension): Outside: Front quarter view: Rear side view: Needs an alignment, badly. No reason for this much negative camber. That's just the setting the whiteline camber bushings were set to, when I installed the upper arms. Sadly, I see that the rear has settled to be a tad lower than the front since installing the H-Techs. I'm surprised, or rather, dissappointed, as it seemed for the first couple weeks that the rear was just a hair taller than the front with just a 3/8" spacer. I'm thinking of ordering up some 1/2" spacers, but request bolts long enough to install the 1/2" and 3/8"s at the same time. Or maybe I just need a 3/4" spacer. Hrmm...

Finally crossed 1000 break in miles! Finally finally finally! Took nearly two months of normal commuting and weekend local trips. Friday morning changed the oil, with dyno 10w40 as required by builder, and Tokyo Roki filter. Drove around a bit before letting it cool and re-checking the oil. Then let er rip! Haven't WOT'd the throttle since early June? Feels nice! Did a few short 3rd gear runs on the way to work. Smooth and strong. Monday I couldn't wait and I flashed with the ACN91 Stage1 map. Wooo! Really noticable in the torque coming on much earlier. Saw 15.83 psi on the AP guages. Highest I saw on the stock tune was around 13.5. Not much else to report until I get the up pipe and down pipe installed, and switch to the stage2 tune.

Here's pics of the cracked ring landing from the #2 piston of the original engine and sample of the scored cam shafts:

Great question. Not sure this is a great answer, just what I observed. He jacked up both rear tires, and they rotated freely, so he could use the roller. In the front, both wheels stayed on the ground and he used the pipe and skillz. Talking to him, he seemed to know his way around awd cars n such.

The trimming is for future fitment experiments.

Cleaned up the wiring for the AP V3 Vent mount bracket from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00KC4XBW8) that clicks right into the AP mount, AP mount, Accessport, the Cobb cable, and the thin 12" extension cable (http://amzn.com/B00GGLVXG2) : Popped out the blank plate in the side mirror module, after removing the whole thing. Getting the plugs out of the mirror and rear wiper controls was the hardest part! All put back together. There's a nice spot back in there behind the knee crash support to bundle the Cobb cable so it's tucked away: Cobb cable and vent bracket at work, holding up the AP: The low profile OBD2 cable. I'm no longer bumping it with my feet, and it looks so much cleaner: The finished product:

Yesterday had fender roll, trim and tiny bit of a pull performed by the legendary Tony. Can't really pull on the OBXT like a regular car because the plastic fender flairs won't sit right, so it's mostly just trimming the fender plastic and folding the lip. Tony's done more than a few Outback's. I think mine might have been the first one he's seen on stock wheels and tires though :-p The good ol' Eastwood Roller (before I realized camera was in manual focus): Left front rub marks, on trimmed inner wheel well plastic: More left front rub marks: Trimming the plastic lip of the fender flair: Some serious rub marks on that trimmed off plastic: There's a tiny bit of pull on the left rear: Compare to the right rear before rolling/pulling: Tony says: "Kid's, don't try this at home." More rubbing marks, from right front trimmed inner wheel well plastic: And that's about it. I don't have new wheels yet. I'm scanning the interwebs everyday.... funds are tight right now after the rebuild, if you can imagine. But the car's ready.

Half way through the 1000 mile engine break in... Still being very good, and keeping almost out boost. You know it's hard.