Waxiboy

I was at MachV the other day and they had an 09 STI 6 speed transmission sitting in the shop with $2700 OBO on it in case anyone here is interested.

That is my transmission and diff

Congrats, what did it cost ya and how many miles?

Thanks.

85K, female driven (I think). Package came out to $2.6K and comes with OEM FW, clutch, PP, fork, trans mount, diff cradle, DP bracket. Missing shifter and slave cylinder though .

My "to buy' list includes:

a. shifter assembly

b. slave cylinder

c. wagon 4EAT driveshaft (Outback ok?)

d. spec B axles

e. DCCD controller (probably just get a manual version)

Anything else you could think of?

Anything else I am missing?

Recipe B

Transmission: 09 STi

Rear diff options: 09 STi

Rear axles: Spec B

Front axles: Regular LGT

Driveshaft: 2.5i 4EAT Wagon/Outback

Small parts:

5MT NSS

6MT shift linkage -included with tranny (direct fit from 08+ STi right?)

6MT clutch fork - included

6MT clutch release shaft - included

6MT clutch slave cylinder - included

6MT throw-out bearing - new purchase

6MT rear transmission mount - included

Reverse lockout cable - new purchase

Downpipe support bracket - new purchase

R180 diff mount from the spec B - included

Clutch fork shaft plug (threaded cap that holds the fork shaft in) - included

Output Shaft Oil Seal (oil seal for the driveshaft interface) - 806735210 - $11.50

Clutch fork spring (spring that connects clutch fork to bell housing) -30546AA060 - included

Inner shift boot - use existing

DCCD controller - new purchase

Parts list:

Trans: 08+ STi

Diff: 08+ STi (combo with trans)

Driveshaft: 05-09 2.5i wagon 4EAT

Rear Axle: 07+ Spec B

Tranny will come with trans support, OEM FW, slave cylinder, fork, return spring and shifter.

Diff comes with cradle.

Can I run this without DCCD for now and just add it later?

Just in case anyone (local) is looking for a set.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3053290&postcount=1

Just want to share my experience on this.

I hit a snag trying to get the axle to come off from the tranny. When I gave it a hard tug I pulled the axle and the bearings leaving the green cup in the tranny Weird thing is I was able to pull the cup out with my hand with no effort at all I obviously mangled the retaining clip so I spent a good hour bending it to shape. So if you are going to order the parts to get this job done, I suggest that you order PN 28333AG000 as you'll never know what will happen.

Another issue I had was with tightening the smaller band because there was not enough lead to wrap it in the tool . I ended up using pliers to pull the band and tightening it.

Other than those 2, everything went as described in this thread. I just hope my retaining clip would hold inside the cup.

^^ Make sure you are lowered to pull these rims off. Your wheel well will look vary vacant if you are at stock suspension height.

You mean like this? http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2551069&postcount=45

do they being 17's really look too small on our cars? I've got an OBP 05 with some f'd up stock rims that hit a few curbs courtesy of the (woman) previous owner. Since I picked the car up I've been thinking of getting these. Always been a fan of the gold sti bbs's, mainly because of the great looking contrast between the obsidian and the gold (as some of you guys above displayed beautifully ). I really want them, but this size situation I read about here is kinda concerning me. Opinions?

IMO they are small for aesthetic purposes...but I do have a set

The STi BBS wheels I got were not perfect. One has a light curb rash about 2" along the lip. So after cleaning (see post above), I set out to repair this one.

When I got it

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2240.jpg

After light sanding and pass with wire brush

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2249.jpg

The filler

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2250.jpg

and filled

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2254.jpg

After wet sanding

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2256.jpg

Primed and ready for paint

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2375.jpg

Finished (to follow)

1. Rinse with water.

2. Apply Armor All wheel cleaner generously.

3. Let stand for a minute or two.

4. Scrub with sponge, inside and outside.

5. Rinse with water.

6. Repeat steps 1-5

Now that was the easy part , here is where it gets tough.

Materials: Kerosene, plenty of shop rags, 2-inch spackle spatula (for drywall), small screwdriver, car shampoo.

1. Wet rag with kerosene (like dripping wet) and wipe all over the wheel. This will soak the tar and caked brake dust and soften them after a few minutes.

2. Take your spatula and screwdriver and carefully scrape off (with a light force so as not to scratch the wheel) tar and whatever else are embedded on the wheel. You cannot rush this step. I moved 1 spoke at a time making sure I cover every corner and crevice of the wheel.

3. When you have cleaned the entire wheel, wash it with car shampoo and wipe it dry.

I would say it took me an average of 2-3 hours to clean 1 wheel. I did not finish the job in 1 day, I did 1 wheel per day and my back is still hurting up to now.

Here is my set when I got them from the previous owner. Pretty filthy huh?

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2239.jpg

After a thorough cleaning to remove 5 years of tar, caked brake dust, grease, etc.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2241.jpg

...and the back side

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x6/Lukipooh/IMG_2242.jpg