foxrider28

This is very heart breaking to see Chris. You should expect $12-$15k from insurance which is what my buddy told me the insurance value was when he did my estimate last spring for my accident. Luckily he wss able to get them to spend $9k to save my car and not total it out.

That would be awesome. I would definitely add a turbo though. No snail no bueno. This is all a long way down the road, but I am sure my engine will blow up eventually.

Why not twins? I mean it is almost 2018, anything with 2 headers has twins now. Of course I know how impractical it really is especially considering the stock space issues with the 3.6

Got another subaru convert at work. Makes #3 this year. Those are our reserved spots too so plenty of photo ops!

Douglas is a great brand. I've used them many times on many different types of vehicles and have had good luck with them for the most part. Just don't expect a manufactures warranty or life expectancy comparable to a name brand but do expect Wal-Mart to cover them if you buy the protection plan.

I've had stock size General G-max AS-03's on my LGT for a year now and they did great in 4" of snow.

The cold start grinding is most likely the starter sticking and is very common on 5th gens. I've noticed in all the pictures I've seen that all the starters come out very very dirty on all 5th gen models MT or AT. The sound is caused by the starter gear not coming off the flywheel fast enough due to the dust and grime drying out the lubricated areas. Cleaning and greasing the bendix seems to he the fix for it.

I've been watching this one myself and considered dumping the '10 for the '12 high miles or not. It says 1 owner so it's likely a good car just worried about rust with 95k mi in PA so it's definitely seen salt often if not every winter since new. One would hope it was properly maintained. But @ $16.5 that's a decent price.

There's quite a few 15+ STI's on car-part.com all with less than 20k mi.

On my way home from work yesterday, about 2 minutes from home, a knucklehead in a giant ford expedition decides to pull out way too early and clipped the whole passenger side rear of my beloved LGT. He was issued a failure to yield ticket, so no fault here, now just have to wait and see how his insurance (Progressive) will handle it

Aww man this sucks, hopefully they don't have to do the same thing that was done to mine because the rear quarter is part of the uni-side. They may get away with cutting and welding back in the damaged section. If not and they quote the whole uni-side it may include a new front passenger door that no longer sounds hollow. Again hope it is an easy repair and the GT stays on the road.

 

As for my luck I was ran off the road by a woman in a CRV yesterday because she was too busy staring at a helicopter trimming trees on the next road which is why I had to detour to that road anyway. She came around a blind curve on my side of the road and still didn't get over after I barely was able to swerve into a driveway which was where I hit a trash can with the mirror, well it was half in the road too, it ended up breaking my brand new mirror housing but the covers didn't have a scratch on them. I had no ground to stand on filing a police report because she took off even with my horn blowing full blast and me screaming out the window "pay the f**k attention" but she was too mesmerized by the helicopter so apparently I didn't exist. But instead of replacing the mirror AGAIN, I just put some JB Weld on it for now until I can get another damn mirror from a junkyard. This is actually the 2nd time since I've got my car back that I've almost been hit head on and it's not even been a month yet.

My passenger side door makes that hollow thud sound, I was honestly thinking the previous owner was dishonest about the accident history and the sound was from the vehicle being repaired in some way. So, clear it up for me, whats up with that hollow thud sound?

Apparently something inside the front passenger door was poorly adhered together and it comes apart creating the hollow sound. I believe they fixed it in the later models. Idk what year car the replacement door is from but it definitely doesn't sound hollow like the original door did.

Yeah the pics are astonishing, if it was $500 more it would of been totaled. It does look like they just chopped it off however the other pics of the repair that I don't have show much more detail of how it actually came apart and went back in. The part trashed in the accident is not something you can section, they are uni-sides which are one solid piece and it's more work to take that thing apart and piece it back in plus it was a little out of square around both the doors so I'm glad they replaced the whole side, also the delaminated/glued brace in the old door that creates the hollow thud sound, like a bunch of the 2010s have, is gone so I get a solid sound when shutting the door now. IMO seeing all the repair photos and trusting multiple opinions from friends with auto body backgrounds, it's no different then factory except for the front roof brace which was the only weld outside the factory welds and the way they did that is actually better then I expected. They actually added a couple plates to the brace to add strength and they did more welds on the uni-side then the factory does along with more glue, or whatever it is, that covers the welded areas.

As far as I can tell the car is no different then it was prior to the accident except for my out of balance front wheel that they repainted because of curb rash that's been there since I bought the car. I just wish I had the extra money to have them go ahead and repaint the entire car, but it see gravel roads daily so I'm not too worried about the paint honestly.

So as some of you 5th gen folks already know back in April I had a pretty gruesome accident nearly totaling my LGT. Surprisingly insurance covered the $9543 repair minus my deductible of $500. Well as promised here are the photos of before during and after the surgery.

 

Before:

 

During:

 

After:

There's a thread on here specific for the btssm app. There's tons of good info about the app there.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229709

We did. But the last conversation was before the Fozz was riding on wider, more flush wheels.....so therefore I am asking for assistance based on the current way she sits.

The practical person you are, I see you sticking with the current setup because of all the clearance reasons you mentioned earlier. God forbid you trash the sport bumper in the snow this winter when heading up to your cabin, or on another 4 legged friend, which seem to be attracted to our GT's. Of course I also know the enthusiast side of you, and all of us, just can't get past how sick the sport bumper looks. I'm pretty sure which ever route you take we'll still give much props to all your photos. But IMO the FXT is a DD and it doesn't need to be a show car, you've got the GT for that.

I looked up part numbers on the Subaru Electronic Parts catalog and the 15 WRX and 10+ LGT have the same part numbers from the cool side of the turbo to the intake box including the funnel (some people have these made out of carbon fiber for bling factor). Same thing on intercooler feed hose too. Perfect for replacing bellowed plastic tubes with silicone ones.

 

On that note, has anyone attempted using a 15+ wrx intake on a legacy gt?

First off this is a sticky for CONFIRMED parts, and not for general guesses. Scroll up to see why I know [emoji13]. To answer your question to my best memory since this hasn't been discussed in some time, yet has been discussed in the forums before multiple times, I'm too lazy to do the search for you. Anyhow, the maf sensors are completely different for the '10-'12 GT and '15+ WRX, therefore a full '15+ intake won't work unless you adapt our maf to fit somehow or go speed density tune and get rid of the maf all together. There are some guys running the Cobb SF intake from '08+ and other similar/custom setups as such. IIRC there's someone that did a maf retro fit as well. But we are pretty much limited to using everything but the maf housing/section. However there's a reason we don't have an aftermarket intake, for a 5th Gen GT to even benefit from one you'd need to be stage 3+. So sure use the silicone/CF lower/mid intake pipes and even add a cone filter and custom box if you'd like but be sure to get a pro tune immediately. 5th Gen OTS maps are all for stock intake setup, they even say to use a stock airfilter.

You guys reminded me I still have this part laying around and might finally get it installed since it's starting to get warm. Since I'm pulling the intercooler should I go ahead and order the Perrin hose in case my factory one is fubared?

 

 

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I would suggest yes, simply because it's cheap reassurance. The stock hose is bound to fail eventually if it hasn't started already. This was the first 2 "mods" I did to my car, well this plus AEM filter, milk jug delete, and the HKS intake funnel.

Hmm adding, yes adding, a passenger seat is an option....

http://www.caranddriver.com/news/2018-dodge-challenger-demon-everything-we-know-so-far-news

 

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AVO silicone intake hose for '15+ WRX, '10+ LGT, and '13+ FXT... it's quite pricey though.

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/422

 

http://www.avoturboworld.com/catalog/images/Screen%20Shot%202017-02-22%20at%204.18.31%20PM.png

This guy in NJ is selling a BNIB AEM Dryflow for a great price.

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2822277

Grrr local pickup only.

Didn't he sell the car?

Yeah it's been a while now. See prior post linking to his new build thread.

Nice find GT. Whoever buys it is not only getting a killer deal but also an immaculate car probably one of the very few low milage 5th gens left.

To clarify, I didn't know if there was an upper end to the STI model years (i.e., 2008-20xx), and I didn't see that. Sorry if I missed it.

 

 

 

That's what I figured, but my wife will kill me if I buy an 18G along with the $3k+ engine rebuild, so it'll have to wait...

Just send your core in to be built while you rebuild the engine and explain that it's necessary because it's a key part of the engine and it won't operate properly if you don't. [emoji6]

Guys

Thank you so much for all the help and encouragement. I will be fabricating the passenger mount this weekend. It is pretty much just welding a bunch of pieces together. Depending how it turns out it might be nice to have one of you see if you could digitize the designs for others use. That is if they work of course.

 

For digitizing your mounts just download an app called "123dcatch" to your phone, setup an autodesk account if you don't already have one, and hang the part from some fishing line. Then the app will do the rest well guide you through the process, pretty much take photos from all angles. You can share the file with GTeaser, myself, or any other CAD guys around here we can scale it and clean up any bad tolerances, remove welds ect. and I, or anyone else with a 3d printer can print up some mock up parts. Once tested and tweaked to satisfaction send the CAD file to your Machine shop of choice and get some nice solid mounts. There is quite a few awesome apps made by 123d, my 2nd favorite is called "123dcircuits" and is a Web based circuit/schematic/pcb design lab. I was working on a led taillight pcb for our cars with the guy that ran our pcb shop, but he passed away unexpectedly this past weekend so I don't know if I will get back to that project.

 

Anyhow... Amazing effin job Brendan! I am now not scared of possibly breaking the tranny in my car, of course not like I'm trying to.

Your the man Joe! so if i went to those and 13-14 springs I'd likely net a ~3/8" drop?.... just so i can say i'm lowered[emoji38]

I'm with you rip, I was worried about what I was going to do to replace my 120k struts... yeah no leaks but wore out unless they were changed at one time. Anyhow I didn't want to go with the boaty stock struts again and I can't give a 1/2" of ground clearance up I drive off road daily and that would end up catastrophic I already scrape my RA flaps and I set them as high as possible.

 

Edit- forgot to mention I planned on using spacers but didn't want to deal with changing studs or buying more expensive top hats with longer studs. So if I can get some 1/8" - 1/4" spacers should get by without using new studs. Haven't really researched the studs yet because I'm still not quite sure when I'll get to do suspension with a wedding planned for later this year it's hard to set aside finances.

Rockauto.com has some closeout parts for the GT. Parts such as head gaskets/kits and other random gaskets along with an A/C condenser and even wiper blades for cheap! Most gaskets are Victor Reinz or Fel-Pro.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1445356&m=wc&l=en&html=true