Grnlantern1

My Legacy is a 2.5.

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Will be doing drain and fill of my coolant next week and thinking with 135,000 miles on my 2015 Legacy Premium, I should have the heater hoses replaced at the same time. Local Subaru parts guy says he shows 2 heater hoses, but O'Reilly Auto shows 4 different hoses for the heater. I'm wondering how many heater hoses does this Legacy actually have and is it a good idea to replace original hoses at this mileage?

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No it does not plug to the OBD port,only on the gas pedal plug,if you decide to get one make sure your key fob is away from your car,or disconnect - battery wire.

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Just finished installing Pedal Commander and tested it for a while,man I gotta say I’m impress on the throttle response, even on city mode +1 level definitely feel the difference

And tried the sports + mode level 4,OMG tires peels off on take off,I gotta say it made driving the car much much more fun to drive!!!

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I have had my fair share of issues with my 2016 legacy premium. Out of all my Subarus ranging from models from 2000 all the way up to the present above, it's the most greminly car I have owned. It still get the job done but I won't keep it as long as the others as I don't have confidence in it's long term reliability. 58K on it as of today.

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I used a ARC PSM unit to connect my 2 amps and sounds great. I'm using stock head unit as well..

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Do Subaru vehicles have a problem with Axel's? I lost one of my front axles after only 45000 miles. It was repaired for free because it was still under warranty. But why should it go bad so soon? I did not have any accidents.

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See when you said get them back to normal, that low key made me nervous. I will definitely be getting that clear bra, rock chips are no joke.

 

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Sanding takes off the protective layer and leaves sanding marks. You're in already, might as well go all the way

 

What you want to do is get a very high grit sanding paper like 3000 or 5000 grit. Wet sand the lights and then use a polish followed by a finishing polish.

 

Then protect.

 

If you skip the polish part its going to look hazy

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Just had another crack in my windshield. This is the 2nd time in 2 years. I've owned several subarus and this hasn't happened before. I think the windshields are faulty.

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365+ days later I finally washed my car by hand...but I think I messed up my headlights trying to refinish them myself. If you guys have any thoughts on how I can fix it, I am grateful.

 

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Gecko make a good coiliver package as well..

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Have someone tried this spoiler? I'm thinking to purchase it for my 16 basic model, and was wondering if that's the same as in Limited or Premium trims.

 

https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/sku/e721sal000w7.html

 

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Decided to go out for a slice of pizza; ended up spending two hours at Wawa trying to get my TPMS light to go away only to have the police follow me home. All of this on a empty stomach, I was ready to start crying like a baby.

 

Side note: vortex generator came in the mail and I decided to go with a carbon fiber version of the Subaru Impreza rear spoiler.

 

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Sorry to say but No.. I'm at 141k on my 15' 3.6r and No issues like that..[emoji848][emoji848][emoji848] Good Luck..[emoji1696][emoji1696]

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The CVT have that TSB Bulletin until 100k so try and pull that out of the Hat as well.. Kinda Sucks the No.1 Dealer isn't owning up to there mistake..[emoji848][emoji848]

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I've had my Dealership change my 3.6r since I purchased new and I only pay 60.00.. So that's not bad considering I used 7qts of Synthetic

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Also 2010 and Newer WRX and Legacy will fit..you can check Whiteline and Perrin both are good companies.. I have an adjustable 22mm Perrin Performance on mine with Kartboy Aluminum Endlinks..

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HTCVT or whatever its called has been repaired twice with my car so far. 2015 3.6R. I noticed the first leak while doing an oil change, brought it in and they separated the engine and (tranny) replaced the leaking seal and sent me on my way. 3k miles later when I went to change my oil I noticed the leak again and thought i was loosing my mind. Brought it back and was then informed that there was a TSB on the replacement gasket they installed. It was bad. So, they separated them again and replaced the same seal. For those of you who don't know, it is a very involved process to separate 2 components that are not supposed to be separated. i.e, the exhaust has to be removed, the subframe dropped, etc, etc. You would think they would offer an oil change or to do a tranny fluid exchange, right? Nope. They literally just fill the tranny back up and done. I'm at 83k miles and I'm planning on not seeing 90k. Between the handling with the dead spot on center while highway driving and unknown tranny reliability... Not to mention a rough idle that appears to be (normal).. I love Subaru, but as Kenny Rogers would put it... - Know when to fold em' and walk away..

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I like the looks of the one on the White Car..What Brand is that and is it a JDM Spoiler?

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Honestly this was my first time using clay, but I was very straightforward. I watched a couple YouTube videos and talked to my dad and just went for it. All the steps Grnlantern1 laid out are great and clearly he has much more experience.

 

2 things I'll say to augment his post are: a separate bucket and mitt for wheels makes total sense but I always thought the two bucket method was one for soap, one to rinse. Mitt goes in the soap, on the car, then to rinse before back in the soap.

 

Secondly a few reviews I read said that a small spray bottle with soap and water is better lubricant than the quick detailer for clay because it doesn't leave a residue if you are following up with a sealer. I used all McGuire's stuff, but I sealed with a product called The Last Coat. I hit each panel with alcohol before using TLC and then followed their instructions.

 

I've been less than impressed with the lasting power of waxes so I gave this a try. So far after 2 weeks and one touchless car wash it's held up pretty well, but that's hardly enough time for a fair review.

 

Also if you have aftermarket wheels don't use harsh wheel cleaners, just soap and water. The info that came with my Enkei wheels said its just like your paint so treat it the same way.

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If your car isn't running rough and don't see any fuel mileage declines I would wait on the plugs.. I ran my 15' 3.6r to 118k before I changed them and they came out clean as a whistle..

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Any good products/resource recommendations for clay bar process? Would like to learn to do it myself.

 

 

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1st - Need to Remove any Waxes or Polishes So to do that the Best way is use Chemical Guys Clean Slate Car Wash or Good ol Dawn Dish Soap it will have the same effect.

2nd - Completely Dry your car let all the Cracks and Crevices Completely drain off.

3rd - Begin to Clay Bar doing 1 panel at a time using the Spray Lubricant supplied with the Clay Kit or you can use a Quick Detailer.. Work in a side to side motion once the panel is complete wipe down with micro fiber towel and move to the next panel but before you start fold in the clay where you just used and make a ball then flatten out to have a fresh surface. Do the complete car you should feel a very smooth surface. I do the clay process twice a year usually in the Spring and Fall..

4th - Apply a Polish to bring out the color and shine..If you have a Dark car use Chemical Guys Black Light for Light Color Cars use White Light.. Or you can use Mcguires Or Mothers Products of your choice but Make Sure Polish is BEFORE WAX. Do sections at a time as per directions .

5th - ( OPTIONAL) Sealer it Depends on How critical you are. Chemical Guys make a product called Jet Seal but once you apply a coat gotta wait 20 minutes then remove and then another 24 or 48 hours before applying Wax. This sealer products from Bird droppings and other harmful substances.

6th - Get a Good Wax from Chemical Guys or Mcguires or Mothers. I use Pete's 53 or Butter Wax, but Mcguires Xtreme Series is good or even Gold Glass Products.. Wax is the protector from the Weather Elements.. Apply it let haze up and wipe off gently with Micro Fiber towels.

Last get a Good Car Soap 2 buckets and wash mits.. 1 bucket and mit for wheels abd the other bucket and mit for the car. Chemical Guys has a nice bucket and a plastic filter that sits in the bottom to filter out dirt.. I usually wax the Car every 2 months in between my Clay Bar Process..

It might sound I promote Chemical Guys but it's your choice what products to use..Also you can use a Orbital Polisher which I can explain in a DM since post is long.. I hope I answered questions about detailing ..[emoji41][emoji41][emoji2962][emoji2962][emoji2962]

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Wow, for the last 20,000 miles or so the oil light on my 2015 with 125,000 miles has been going on after 4,000 miles and after checking the oil there is only a small amount left. I've read several threads going back to the litigation around 2016 and without knowing fir sure it seems to me like I have a carryover of the '13-'14 lemons that had defective piston rings.

 

I called the 1-800 number and they offered $750 towards a new Subaru and a coupon that would more than cover an oil consumption test. I had been planning to give our 17 year old this car before year end and buy a new Outback but I'm rethinking all of that now and might follow OP and buy my daughter a Corolla or Civic and me another non-Subaru vehicle.

 

Blegh.

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Hey guys. First the posting here, so sorry if it's not the right forum section.

 

I bought my first ever car a few weeks ago: Legacy 2016 2.5i - 45k miles.

 

It drives fine, besides the slightest break squeak sound. But today I noticed that when my car is rolling at 20-30 Miles/H I feel that it's dragging like a brake is applied slightly.

 

However, when the speed drops down to 14 Miles/H it feels like brake is released fully and car rolls with ease.

 

I'm not sure if that's a CVT character or something is wrong with brakes. I tried to Google this issue and I could not find anything.

 

Any suggestion will help.

 

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