Setnev

NGK Iridium FTW!! Those are the only plugs I use in any of my cars.

Mine's cleaner

E85 actually gives you worse fuel economy because it has a lower energy content.

My 99 2.5 has them mounted there. The fuel pressure sensor is a bugger when that stupid hose comes off and throws a random CEL. It's come off once since I rebuilt the engine, so if it does again, I'll just zip tie it on

No problem. I didn't do a complete snorkus delete on my car, I only removed the air intake that mounts to the rad support. After reading this article and seeing the results, I tested my car and the results were similar to a delete, though not as aggressive. Attached the air intake again and re-tested and I got normal readings again.

You're killing your torque and fuel economy by removing anything forward of the MAF sensor. With MAF based cars, the snorkus balances the resonance that occurs from the chatter of the intake valvetrain so that it doesn't adversely affect the readings of the MAF sensor. This link does a very in depth research case study on the effects of the snorkus removal and the usage of other intake tubes. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1471819 The results in the graph show it all. The snorkus provides a true purpose and thus should not be removed nor modified on MAF based cars. If you want people to know you're accelerating, throw on a set of UEL headers and remove your axle back muffler section. It'll be louder than most Harleys when accelerating, but has a nice sound at idle.

They came out looking good.

2100 miles on new motor, 149k on the chassis

The auto uses the brake light switch to determine if the pedal is pressed and deactivates the cruise. There isn't a grommet like the 5MT has with the clutch pedal. If there was an issue with the switch, his brake lights would be on.

My bet would be on the switch. If not the switch, the selector mechanism on the side of the transmission could be going. This has been a source of many cruise control failures.

Motor just had it's millennial point reached. Almost to 1100 miles on the new motor. Moving accelerated that milestone. Just over 750 miles in 2 weeks.

Everyone told me I shouldn't put 10w40 semi-synthetic in my motor. I have used it on every single one of my vehicles for the last 10 years and never once had an issue.

Ah, I need EJ25D parts for my project. Mostly top end parts (intake, harness, injectors, etc.) and a few odds and ends. Even if it's a high mileage EJ25D, I just need external parts. Trade straight across, complete engine for complete engine.

I was reading about the CV angle issues on various forums. I can't seem to get a straight answer. Subie Lift OZ has a full lift kit that will give me 4 1/2 inches of lift on the suspension and includes 2" frame spacers for increased body lift, as well as a whole slew of other spacers and extensions to help correct the geometry of the suspension, steering, and drivetrain for around $600 shipped to the US. Because I own the Outback model and the kit assumes a stock Liberty/Legacy, this will net about 5 inches of total lift on the whole car, achieving a total of 12.3 inches of clearance and will not cause premature wear of tires or CV joints. That is lifted Jeep territory. Wheels and tires have been my second pain point in this whole process. Because we're talking about a SUW (Sport Utility Wagon, is that even a thing?), it's got McPherson struts and the spring perch is a huge obstacle without coilovers. Tire options are extremely limited. I want to run LT tires, at least 225/75's without rubbing and requiring 1" or more spacers, which isn't kind to your wheel bearings. The problem is I can't find compatible coilovers that don't lower the car. SG Forester struts and coilovers are direct bolt-ons, but again, they're McPherson struts and all the coilovers I've found lower the vehicle. Does no one make a coilover that lifts the vehicle?

Absolutely gorgeous wagon. This is the exact reason I fell in love with the 2nd gen wagons. I grew up with wagons in my life, learned to parallel park in an 84 Caprice Wagon, I'm a wagon fan through and through. I love the documentation of mods performed on the car. Well done!

WOW this is an awesome build thread. I read it pretty much start to finish. I daily my 99 Outback and started taking it on some offroad adventures. I have some questions. On the 96, you put the 4 inch lift on the car with Forester shocks, did you swap those over to your 99? I've been contemplating doing a 4 inch lift, but I want more than 10 inches of ground clearance. I'm shooting for 12 or more inches of ground clearance. Some of the trails here I fear my be challenging for my Outback. My buddy's old 2016 F-150 FX4 scraped on some of the trails we went on and he had 9.5 inches of ground clearance.

I've always wondered what LL Bean wheels would look on my wagon. They look good.

What state is the 22E and the 205 in? I've been looking for both for a while now in good condition. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I have a complete EJ222 if you want to trade for some parts.

Just made it to 147k on the body and 250 on the rebuilt motor of Land Shark (blue outback)

Bleach and ammonia make chlorine gas, which is also toxic Sorry choover, don't mean to hijack your thread.

Reminds me of a couple months ago. My dad and I were working on my girlfriend's car and he didn't know the AC system was still charged because the compressor seized up and we were replacing it. He loosened the line and freon game gushing out in a giant cloud. My girlfriend and I stood back while the gasses came out of the system, but there he is standing within a couple feet of the freon cloud and proceeds to light a cigarette, to which we promptly told him that it's super flammable and he moved away from the area.

A lot of the OP links are dead and need to be updated with new information. A lot of the Whiteline part numbers are no longer active and scoobymods store is 404.

Cruise control and AWD don't rely on the ABS sensors, they rely on Speed Sensor 1 and 2. Speed Sensor 1 (in the front of the transmission) detects the speed of the vehicle's front wheels and controls the cruise control system and front diff. Speed sensor 2 monitors the output speed to the rear wheels and controls duty solenoid C. If sensor 2 value is more than sensor 1, the TCU tells Duty Solenoid-C to engage and give more power to the rear wheels because the front wheels are slipping. I learned this due to a sensor 2 failure on my SVX. It threw the check engine light and reverted my car to FWD only. When sensor 1 went out, so did my speedometer, cruise, and the system reverted to FWD only. Ironically when sensor 1 or 2 fails, my cooling fans ran all the time. Once I replaced those two sensors, the fans worked like normal.

Brighton, these instructions came from many many hours of literally ripping my hair out and pulling the motor in my 99 for the umpteenth time. Lifting the transmission came to me while I was under the car the last time pulling out my exhaust bits to make changes to the headers. While I was under there, I saw the three bolts and just about died when I realized how incredibly easy it was to lift the transmission. I could kick myself a hundred times for not finding this out sooner. Every article in the past that I read never once mentioned lifting the transmission, and if it did, it only mentioned removing the torque mount and lifting it from the little bracket on the top of the transmission. I could never get that to work right and seriously dreaded installing an engine because it was literally hours of frustration. Pulling the engine wasn't the hard part for me, it was getting it back in and lining the damn thing up and then remembering how the motor mount studs never went in their slots and stripping the threads on the last pair (hence why I bought new ones).