wesleyCrowbar

I'll be there! (for the action, not the axle-back)

Make sure your charger and cable are up to the task of keeping it charged. If I used anything less than a 2.1amp charger I would drain the battery pretty quickly usin spotify and GPS

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=44366323

 

Looks like someone got them to fit on 17s

So is it all 17s that they won't fit? Seems that way

Subbed. Fingers crossed

How far is that mounting hole from the side of the cylinder? I can clone that part too, to hold it in place...

Center of the hole is 7/8" away from the side of the cylinder and the hole itself is ~5/16"

2.875" total depth 2.5" diameter. The smaller top section is 0.375" from the very top and 2.375" across

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160414/4c644cac0d155102c897ac498da434a3.jpg

I was iffy on this, but SEMA's clarification was very helpful. Not to mention, the "safe" route to take here is to be proactive. Fukken signed.

I like this quite a bit more than using the jdm bezel that I have......

Finally got the ball joints in. Having 2 extra sets of hands made it go much smoother. One still needs some coercing to get it seated properly, but they're in! I'll be drilling out the knuckles to accept a longer bolt since I can't get the old ones in, but so far so good!

You guys rock. Gonna wait for my buddy to come by and give me a second pair of hands and to go get a fatter flathead

... To no avail. I'm going to have to shave the ball joint down this weekend. I'd rather do that than open the knuckle any wider than I did earlier to avoid it cracking.

You guys rock. Gonna wait for my buddy to come by and give me a second pair of hands and to go get a fatter flathead

So I think using ratchet straps is the way to go getting the ball joint back into the knuckle. What a pain this turned out to be.

Any tips for getting the ball joint back in the hub with these lca's? I've got my konis and springs on and everything is attached except the LCAs. I've taken them off and I'm gonna give it another go tomorrow. I want to avoid taking apart the bolts attaching the hub to the strut if possible, but I'll do it if I have to.

I have all the parts already (new top hats and all). All I really needed was to make sure I had everything put together in the right order before I swap it onto my car.

You can still access some of the images through a google search, I used "legacygt.com koni strut epic engineering install", and then click images for a google image search. Here's some random images I downloaded, that I remember being posted by FBP.

 

*In hindsight these images probably don't help wesley, but it doesn't hurt to post them anyways.

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you

So the FBP pics in the first post seem to be gone (for me at least). Just to make sure I've got everything in the right order (from bottom to top):

Plastic corrugated washer

bump stop

spring

spring perch

conical washer (flat side facing down)

top hat

 

Am I Missing anything?

About what he's charging. I think mine was about 250 shipped and I had to wait a week and a half for it.

What would it take to separate them from you now?

Great, thanks. Your build here is super inspiring and pretty much in line with what my goals are. Thanks for doing all this!

What did you end up using for a cap on cyl4?

I'm moving to CA in 2 years and I'm interested as well. Would the sniffer test apply to cars with hi flow cats as well? I don't necessarily want to go e85, but I would like to be able to drive a modified car

Can't believe I almost forgot about this. I'll be there

Appreciate it! According to Tris, me and you are neighbors.

Getting there is most of the problem. Driving a 212k+ mile vw cabrio 200 miles while I work on my GT doesn't seem like the best idea, logistically. I promised the lady some quality time this weekend, which is the other thing keeping me from going, especially on such short notice.