blackobxt

Thank you for the replies and sorry, I forgot this thread was still open. I have everything I needed! 
 

I’ll work on having this closed or deleted

Could be balljoint or tie rod ends as well

It’s been awhile so here’s an update:

after lunch with @boxkita I felt a renewed motivation to install the massive pile of parts I had in the garage. Also, the family has officially added Mod Pizza to our list of spots so thank you for that sir!

Currently the car has the entire catalogue of whiteline bushings, complete subframe spacer delete, lgt kartboy shifter, Koni’s, swift springs, 2015 STI steering rack and the fenders have been rolled and clearanced. The ride is phenomenal and I have zero rub and the alignment is all green. I have 25mm wheel spacers that will definitely make things rub so I’m grabbing a set of 20mm spacers till I can decide on a set of wheels. Next project is powder coating the brembos and I got quote from a painter who does pretty good work on getting the girl a fresh coat of makeup. The roof is showing some light rust around the sunroof due to the bad crow checking from the paint. He made me a really good deal to do the top half when I offered to detrim the car and drop the sunroof. Anyone got a set of legacy wagon roof rails they would be willing to part with?

That’s a good find, I didn’t even know there was a relay there

Please post pics if you can. This could be big for people in the future dealing with a rare problem with little to no online reference material.

so the O2 sensor pictured in the downpipe is what would normally be the pre-turbo O2 sensor? If so i dont recall ever seeing a denso with yellow sheathing.  

Y’all need to get that thing tuned before you’re doing a ej20 swap 2.0 thread.

Just another thing to reminisce about. Damn I better find me another pair or two of c5-650s if I can. 

Man they have lost the big end. That’s an insane jump from a c2 to a three piece component that’s guaranteed to require some creative fabrication and installation

I’ve been out of the audio game for about 8yrs now but back then the only semi affordable option for that rms was JL and even they were about $600 a pair. But I have no idea what the game is like these days. 

19 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

There, I think that's pretty close to what you were asking for.

Bless your heart 

28 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Well, if we haven't scared off @Tehnation yet.... let's just keep on threadjacking, haha! He's got his stuff installed and tuned now, so he won't need the thread anymore anyhow.

I was just going to say something about how the DP + tune thing in reasonably inexpensive, and really does wake up the car noticeably. I think if you keep your aim on the low end of power gains, you'd appreciate how much more fun to drive the car is once you get off the stock tune. I would even argue, that the BEST parts of those mods are to be had under whatever "80 mph" translate into in world units.

Then, at the same time, I think of the pile of receipts I have (or sometimes pretend I do not) that got me to where I am, with a 'safe stage 2' build... JMP turbo, complete exhaust system, TMIC, Cobb AP, full suspension rebuild, etc..... and I think it's a good time for me to shut my mouth. Hah! Stay Stock Stay Happy.

Touche, I wonder if a mod would be nice enough to clean this up into a new post . @Tehnation where’s that acceleration video lol.  
 

in all seriousness, sorry and I do hope a mod can clear this up.

20 minutes ago, TomahawkLabs said:

This is where I feel like I’m in the minority. I drive my car on the city streets, so 99% of my driving is 65mph or lower 90% is 40mph or less. I don’t track it and it’s my daily so it can never be “race car”. It is super fun since the “extra” gear down low I’m constantly shifting from 1-3 in town. It’s like I’m driving in a F&F movie. 
 

Every time I look at adding go fast parts (engine) I think of everything that has to be done to “do it right”. A catted down pipe and tune would run me $1500-2000. I’d make more power and my 0-65 time would improve when I merge onto the interstate. Then there is the increased wear due to increased forces which will lead me into a very expensive rabbit hole. So the incentive to do that is rather limited. Because why buy the upgrades to not use them. 
 

I listen to music every time I drive, whether it’s an album or Twitch Stream there is always something playing when I drive. I don’t listen loudly so I still hear my stock car noises.
 

Putting that same amount towards a modest audio system including sound treatment. You’d be adding 50-100lbs of sprung weight mostly evenly around all 4 corners. If I have either of my kids in the car I gain that much but localized to a rear corner. It would reduce/remove vibrations in the panels and improve the overall sound and modernize the navigation to CarPlay.
 

Really make it feel like my Spec B is a grown up STi. I didn’t want an STi because they are visually loud cars that attract attention. The 3 main differences between the Spec B and an STi are: the engine power, the brakes, and the DCCD/Front Diff. All of which are unnecessary for the kind of drivingi my car does or will do. 
 

I’ve done and will continue to do suspension upgrades (STi Pinks/Bilstiens, OZ lightweight wheels) and hopefully a 2015+ steering rack soon because I can enjoy those at 25 mph around the round abouts and everywhere else I drive to. 
 

I don’t know if I’d call that a minority. My car is regularly driven 50mph or lower primarily taking the kids to school, jiujitsu and the grocery store and really I only exceed that three days a week when I’m driving the 33mi to and from work where I do 80mph. I can probably count on one hand the amount of times in the last year I’ve pressed the throttle past 50% which honestly I blame on gas prices more than anything. And here I am getting ready to put a 400whp combo in my Sti only to drive it the exact same way lmfao. BUT I do know that the powers there when I want or need it!

I 100% prefer performance over audio, but I also ran a car audio shop for several years so kind of came with the territory. Unfortunately (or fortunately) my hearing isn’t all that great so there is a limit to what I perceive as good audio

4 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

 

It's fine. Get in that rabbit hole. It's fun! But yeah klipsch or not, you need some good cone area for movies man, and some pretty good juice. My Denon powers all the satellite speakers while I am using some QSC amp (3K RMS) for the sub. Action scenes, and BAM, the house shakes like crazy . It's just a 15 though. Can't wait for the 18 in a proper enclosure. Lots of movies to rewatch after that.

 

Turned into an audio thread now . Sorry OP.

I want to try a different receiver, currently on a Sony str-dh790 running in 7.2 and it still feels pretty entry level.

9 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

yeah. I've built two enclosures with the software so far. We got great results each time. Nice flat response and when it goes down, it still sounds good. I have two additional enclosures to build, one for a 15" TC sound LMS, and one for a TC Sound LMS Ultra 18". That will be for movies.

I’m trying hard not to fall down that rabbit hole. I’m currently running two 10” klipsch powered enclosures for movies and I’m not honestly satisfied with it.

also just realized we went way left field on Tehnations thread

Pm sent lol

1 minute ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I have the OEM radio still in place that is useless. I have been using my Nexus 7 tablet instead since 2016 now. Hooked up to a USB DAC, which then goes to an old school soundstream preamp, and then to a Phoenix Gold Ti2 1600.5 amp. Still stock door speakers. I did add a Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12". I custom built that box using the BassBox 6 Pro software. Very happy with the frequency response.

Im familiar with that software, my friend used it to build me a 5th order bandpass with 3 6” subs that absolutely slammed with only a jx-500 in my 87 ext cab Toyota pickup. People used to think I magically hid 15’s in that tiny truck.

My outback is pretty modest but sounds good, Sony xav limited run head unit, c5-650 in front c3-525 in rear, my fiberglass box I built for an sundown sa-8 that someone unfortunately cut to fit a cheesy kicker 10 all powered by a pdx-5. It won’t impress a high schooler but the sq is just right for my piss poor hearing.

29 minutes ago, TomahawkLabs said:

What kind of active filter were you using for the tweeter? You would 100% blow up a tweeter with that much power AND sending a full range signal to it. Also the C1 6.5" component can only handle 50w and that's tweeter and woofer. Curious what the setup looked like.

That being said, I love car audio and it's a shame it's so niche. The few times you see any amount of car audio it's always about the bass. I'd love to see some Legacy GT audio systems.

I had to edit my post, they were c5’s and the filter those amps did a wonderful job with the frequencies for both the tweeters and the woofers. All calibrated with the smd equipment we had that I absolutely hated lol. Tweeters are stupid power hungry, but they can take a ton of power as long as you keep the frequencies in check. And yeah, running that stereo shop got annoying sometimes. 90% of people just wanted bass and didn’t care how any of it sounded as long as things in the car shook.

Nah man you have to boost those numbers up. I’m a firm believer in overpowering the speakers. The best sounding system i built for a customer was in a Lincoln zephyr and had 2 JL hd 600/4 for the front a rear speakers. I put in c5-650 components in both front and rear and instead of using the crossovers I used the front channels on both amps for the tweeters and the back channels on both amps for the woofers. That’s 150rms to each tweeter and 150rms to each woofer then we did a 12w7 for the bass. That was by far the clearest setup I’ve ever done and the range was incredible but it cost a lot of $$$$.

I also amplify the stock speakers in just about every car I get and I’ve never blown a speaker, it’s how you adjust your frequencies.

10 hours ago, m sprank said:

Yes. It can be done. That was the only good thing about Si drive. The ability to load 3 different custom maps and switch on the fly. We gave many customers low boost, high boost and kill mode via Si. You could use it to switch fuels too, but that is a bit sketchy as it is too easy to make a mistake. 

7 hours ago, Jean E. said:

@m sprank go fuck yourself if your not going to say anything that can help, just don’t comment 

There isn’t a single person on this forum that’s going to disagree with what he said. You may not have liked what he said but it’s absolutely true. If there’s anyone on this forum that knows what it’s like to do weeks of research and go through the trial error to figure out something that’s never been done before and successfully pull it off, it’s m sprank. With that said, he knows what that type of labor and dedication is worth and as he stated nobody is going to give that information out for free.

with all that out of the way, I’ve never heard of anyone pulling off or even attempting to pull of what you’re trying to do. I’ve personally never understood si drive. Why would anyone want to intentionally detune their car and make it feel lazy and unresponsive, especially a car that’s not even all that powerful to begin with? If it were me, I’d abandon si drive.

Shootz to the rescue again

I’m looking for a set of 4 oem side feed legacy gt or outback xt sidefeed injectors. Let me know what you got!