blackobxt

And yes, trimming the inner tie rods would have done nothing to gain adjustment with the whiteline outer tie rods and they threaded all the way down to the non threaded portion of the inner (no jam nut installed) which would have been sufficient for adjustment had I not valued my life. 

Honestly it’s hard to say what nvh I gained because everything was already super noisy and super worn out. I threw the entire whiteline catalogue at my car all at once along with lowering springs and adjustable shocks and it’s quieter than it was before and I’d say it’s acceptably quiet with road noise being noticeable at highway speeds. The group n trans mount did increase transmission noises especially in first and second but I’m a 5mt which is noisy already. My Sti has group n motor and trans mounts with whiteline shifter bushings and it’s quieter than my 5mt. 
 

im running the dampened lgt steering coupler which contributes to some noticeable “squish” in the steering. I will be doing the lockdown kit on it.

Yes lock steering wheel. You risk ruining the clock spring and you’re going to have an expensive time if you do. Make sure you center the new rack before you install. I used the whiteline rack bushings when I did my 2015+ rack install and I love both the rack and the bushings. I had to trim my whiteline tie rods and I ground down the jam nut for additional adjustment. The whiteline tie rods will thread all the way down onto the 2015+ inner tie rods so they weren’t the issue when I installed.

I’ll definitely keep that in mind. I was just going to freshen up my 5mt but holly molly is everything pretty expensive. Just pricing out parts I’d be into it for some good $$$ not including my time. The 3500rpm to do 80mph didn’t really bother me but I had my fears about engine temps and when it hit 110° the other day on my 35 mile drive home from work the coolant temp gauge crept up just past the half way mark. 

1 minute ago, Infosecdad said:

Scotty and I both did it around the same time:

 

Bless your heart, the ole 5mt in the outback is getting a little tired and scratchy. Sometimes when it’s not warmed up I have to shut the car off to get it into reverse and now that I’m running a smaller tire I’m spinning a touch over 3500rpm to go 80mph so not ideal.  How’s the 6sp holding up?

Who was it that swapped a cable shifted 6sp? Could have sworn is was @Infosecdad but I can’t find the thread

It’ll be fine. It is what it is at the point. Just get it apart!

Yes anything is possible. I’ve replaced several broken flex plates over the years mostly on diesels and the worst damage I’ve seen was walleyed out threads on the torque converter

Pulling it with the torque converter will definitely add a challenge but it’s a pretty simple motor to pull. I may have misunderstood. You can’t get the flex plate to turn so you can get to the bolt or you can’t get the bolt to turn?

Aye just saw this on Facebook. You’re probably going to have to get western with it and touch and go. May even have to pull it with the torque converter still attached if possible

Heat and pb blaster.

You’ll be ok buddy, look at all the turbo experience you’re getting!

TX and RX are shown in the official jdm hvac thread I posted on here

Personally I wouldn’t be afraid to try powering it up on a bench especially since you have two of them, but the risk is yours. 

Just now, RumblyXT said:

No problem, I appreciate all the help I can get.

Not sure if you saw a previous post where a test light was indeed illuminating before when testing Pin#1 (power). but then again you're mentioning an LED test light.

That light looks sufficient but use the ground for that circuit in the connector as the ground for the test light. Sorry, electrical makes a lot more sense in my head then when I try to explain it. On another note, I at one point in a previous outback several years ago had an issue with the ac compressor not engaging and the stealership wanted me to replace the auto ac control module and I had them look it up and of all the dealerships they could see only 2 had ever been ordered and this was about 6 or 7 years ago so I doubt it’s that

3 hours ago, RumblyXT said:

Ok, I had to read that again because I think I made a mistake on my previous comment.

So, I think the right answer is No. I wasn't able to load the circuit, given the unit I'm trying to test was the A/C Control Panel itself, and since it never turned on the circuit might not be loaded. Is this what you were asking? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

What I did is I turned the key to ACC to the 2nd position where it starts chiming (Ignition switch to On), per the flowchart. But I don't know if that "loads" the circuit..

 

What I meant by checking the circuit with a load was to test it with a test light that or something similar that draws a little bit of current. For example, a circuit might show 12v without any kind of load on it and will light a low current test light like an led and show all is well but throw a halogen type test light in the circuit and it will light super dim usually indicating an insufficient ground. To effectively do this, you need to use the ground in the circuit to test the power in that same circuit. You may notice some mechanics will even use a tail light bulb in a socket as a test light on these circuits. Sorry this is a quick reply and not as detailed as I would like. 

Out of curiosity when you checked for voltage did you do so with a load? I’ve seen many people including myself get tripped up chasing down an electrical gremlin where all voltages seem normal but the darn thing still won’t work. Test the circuit with a load and your 14v becomes 3v.

8 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Test fit one of the wheels to see the new fitment. I enjoyed looking at my wagon before, but —mmm! I've got a few drives tomorrow, and I don't want to have to worry about tire mold release, so I'll put them on Sunday.

Imagine finding a beautiful girl without make up, and then she puts on make up. I didn't even know it could get better. 

Man if I could get my fitment to look like that I’d be in love too lol. The swift springs dropped me quite a bit lower than I thought so I’ve been fighting rubbing in the back. 

Just now, blackobxt said:

Not sure if it will help or not but here’s the jdm hvac thread 

 

I’ve installed several of these and never had any issues outside of forgetting to plug in the hazard button on my own car

Not sure if it will help or not but here’s the jdm hvac thread 

That was my main concern, does anyone have dimensions on the tsk snout? Despite owning several expensive to maintain cars I am at the end of the day a cheap yotch lol. The labor doesn’t bother me so much, I can do a clutch in an afternoon so I might give it a try.

I’m preparing to do the clutch on my outback and I’m pretty certain that I’m going to need a snout kit. I know the TSK has been the go to kit but I haven’t heard anything about the ClutchMax kit. I’m sure the biggest difference would be the quality of the TOB but with the TSK kit being around $200 and the ClutchMax being $40 it would still be more cost effective to use the ClutchMax kit with the $80 TSK TOB. Thoughts or experiences?

Unfortunately no data for oil pressure. Only a 5ish psi switch to turn the dummy light on and off

I have a request for when you finally get this going, after you charge the system (I’m assuming you’re going to charge it by weight) can you please post what temp you are getting out of the vent and the ambient temp. Since you are in Florida I’m sure the temps are going to be somewhat similar to mine and I’ve never been able to get stellar results out of my ac.