Streetlegal

I just realized I'm going to have to unwrap my downpipe to put a wideband bung in and then rewrap it.... Dammit...

He's using an AEM though. I do agree with the innovate gauges being picky about their grounds. I had issues getting my Trans AM one to work right due to grounding.

I don't really have an issue giving my file to people in the community. The only issue I have is when people then take that file and try to sell it as their own (unfortunately have had that happen). I figured if I just provided it on here then anyone with access to a 3D printer could have access to it I'm sure you can find a copy of Solidworks somewhere also. That is what I learned on and it is quite easy to learn on. I think I have one of my Solidworks books from school I could let you borrow if you end up getting that. Currently I use CATIA which now that I am more used to, is pretty sweet. It was difficult to switch because all of the hotkeys and button combinations were different. As far as the gauge pod goes for the center console, where were you thinking? I was considering putting one where the ash tray is. I have gotten a little farther on the vent pod though. I want to make a few more changes before I put up new pictures It looks pretty sweet not gonna lie. Just need to finalize the orientation of how the pods are pointed.

Got mine done and wired up last night. I just wanted to add a few notes. But first here's a video. http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Subaru/th_Snapchat-2107484307769980270_zpsn7g08v6t.mp4 In order to make the oem switch light up like the other buttons do you need to desolder one of the led boards from another switch and solder it onto the pins of the new one. Everything else is there you just need an addition led board. Thankfully I had my other switch so I was able to just transfer buttons and boards. I thought I took pictures of the insides of the switch when I was swapping stuff but I guess I did not. I will pop open the extra one I have to take a few pictures. As a side note, the button tops are annoying to get off

Yep already doing that Just threw them on there on the plane that they are in to see how it would look. It's not the greatest angle that I am showing either I guess. I just wanted to get a decent picture of the orientation. The very front of the pods only come to about the middle of the vent. Plus i will still "carve" out some of the pedestal that they are on to allow more air through. Just haven't got that far yet. Busy time of year at work so don't have a ton of time.

I know this is a bit of a bump but I was just installing my mirrors and wanted to add some info. My spec B has heated mirrors and my plug has a few differences that weren't mentioned. Here's my plug: http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Subaru/20150710_185918_HDR_zpsmub96tgs.jpg Then here is the JDM mirror wiring that I got: http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Subaru/20150710_185830_HDR_zps0dde35g7.jpg If you are just moving the pins around and keeping the 10pin connector you need to splice the blue and red wires together otherwise only up/down or left/right will work. The blue and red wires seem to both be individual powers for either function. So I soldered them together and then wrapped them up. Now I just need to run the wire for the folding motors and swap the switches in the dash around. http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Subaru/20150710_195329_HDR_zpskrrp1m9w.jpg Another thing I noticed was someone mentioned that the mirrors themselves wont move enough to give proper view. I was able to move mine so that I could see just fine. Haven't driven yet but from sitting in my driveway the viewing angles are still the same. The driver mirror does look a little funny but that's probably because it's meant for the passenger mirror. Just figured I would add some more info for others.

Mine also doesn't sit in the same location as block8head's pods. His are off to the right of the pod built up. Mine sit like this for now. Might change the angle of them some more once I have the actual pod finalized. Need to add some channels in to make sure the air gets directed properly and also to separate the air channels from the wire channels that I will be incorporating. http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/Pods3_zpso1yggi5v.jpg

That wouldn't be hard to do. I just don't have a v3 to model it from. When I finish any models I'll be sending them to discojon for him to print and whatnot. Seeing as I offered to help him I don't want to basically take this from him. I'm not sure if I am saying that the right way but basically I don't want to be a dick that's all

I know he makes them and they do look nice. These will be set up a little different. Plus it will give people more options this way too since I can change and put whatever I want onto the vent and print it.

I think I have the vent model finalized so I stared messing around with some pod designs. Figured I'd throw a few up on here This is a offset twin 52mm gauge setup. The pad on the bottom connects right to the top of the vent. I just have it hidden to make it easier to work with right now. I do not have the bottom pad cut out as it will be to maintain a majority of the flow area of the defroster. Once I finalize the pod design it will be made modular so that I can add as many pods where ever I would like Shouldn't be too hard to mirror and make one for those LHD guys either. http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/Pods1_zpsn2v9xkwf.jpg http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/Pods2_zpsxhpbxe9l.jpg

Can't you just drill a hole in the cover and put a grommet in it? That's what I did for my headlights.

The JDM projector lens is not 3". It is the same as the USDM one and it is 2.5".

I pulled apart the switch and figured out how it works. Going to build a new board that does the same thing but in a more compact way

What I'm doing with the switch panel is just recreating the switch into it but making it considerably smaller so that there is room for the switches around it.

That's awesome Did you keep the AWD or did you convert to RWD?

Not sure if this was directed at me or not But I was just saying that because the guy before me asked for LS bolt patter dimensions. Pictures of what? Here's a picture of an LS in my legacy http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150418_152928_zpsnmxakw5r.jpg

I have an LS on an engine stand in my garage if you need any bolt pattern measurements. I'll also be pulling an LS1/T56 combo out of one of my cars in a few days if you want overall dimensions of the engine and trans.

http://cdn.meme.am/instances/59449267.jpg Sounds good. I'll simplify it up. Once I have it done I'll let you know.

I'm using CATIA. I can save as: catia file obviously, .stl, .igs, .model, .3dxml, .cgr, .hcg, .wrl, and .stp Which works best? You want me to just simplify the model to just have the mounting holes and the basic geometry of the hole?

what kind of file do you need to have to be able to open parts in?

What program do you use for modeling? I can probably just send you the model of my switch panel. I need to make a few modifications to make it fit 100% perfect but it's pretty damn close. This is just kind of setting it in there. http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Mobile%20Uploads/20150310_170645_zpsmd6gsbcu.jpg I've changed a few things on the model in regards to layout and whatnot but that is the first one I printed and what it looks like.

little late of a quote haha I have the dimensions of the SI drive panel if you want a model. I made a switch panel to sit in the spot instead.

I can test print mine here I just don't think I'll be able to print off a bunch of them is what I meant.

I'll make up a few designs with all different pods. If everything works out how I want it to, I can make the design with the pod location wherever you want then just re-save it as a different file. Not sure if I'll be able to print a bunch of these so discojon might have to print it. Won't know for sure until I get to that point though. Are you able to print in ABS? That's what this one is printed in, what most of our models are printed in, and we don't have really any issue with warping and whatnot. Plus they are really easy to clean up and whatnot.

Yes but I'm making it a bit different. Pretty much had to make the whole model because it wouldn't import properly :/ I also addressed the fitment and strength concerns Got some test fit pictures. Pretty damn good for the first print I would say. Only need to make a few slight modifications to the shape of the vent so that it sits flush like it should (last picture) http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/20150621_145956_HDR_zpsxefk4ouy.jpg http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/20150621_150005_HDR_zps2qm6yvfp.jpg http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/ab114/gearhead_18/Vent%20pod/20150621_150026_HDR_zpsvif98ihg.jpg Once I do that I can start doing the fun part of adding the gauge holders and whatnot What did you experiment with and what happened? I'll have to see what the other material is. I know the black is ABS.