cww516

Supposedly the intake cams have very similar specs as the STI cams.

 

I was under the impression they were the same, although I'm seeing different part numbers on the Subaru parts website (13031AA740 vs. 13031AA730 LGT vs. STI). I know fahr_side weighed in on it at one point, although I'd have to dig to find where.

As I had it explained to me by a hydraulics engineer (and air is a fluid)- pumps don't make pressure, pumps make flow. Restrictions are what cause pressure to build up upstream, or if you want to think about it in the opposite direction, pressure drops across them (see also: flow across an orifice plate). Maintaining constant manifold pressure (positive or negative relative to atmosphere) is just a steady-state flow condition where the engine is consuming as much air mass as the turbo is providing. Turning up the boost is another way of saying that you're increasing mass flow rate without changing your restrictions, and some newer cars (Focus RS comes to mind) don't actually use manifold pressure as a target at all when calculating requested torque because it's easier to consistently make the same numbers (no manifold temp sensor needed).

 

Also, "compression" happens as the air gets slung radially outward along the vanes of the compressor wheel- it's getting pumped from the centerline of the wheel toward the outside, and the turbo outlet is just the path of least resistance for that relocated air. If you look at a section cut, you'll see that the outer passageway continually increases in area as you work your way around toward the outlet. The air compressor hose analogy isn't great in this instance, since the throttle plate is much more restrictive than the friction between the air flow and the walls of the charge pipe and/or the intercooler (dgoodhue's 3psi guess is actually a little high, there's a chart here), but it's definitely not inaccurate. The air compressor hose thing is the same concept as breathing through a straw- the smaller and longer the tube is, the more restrictive it is due to friction losses. Given a small/long enough hose (and big enough fitting bores upstream), you'll actually get to a point in the hose where you approach supply pressure, even with the end wide open.

 

 

Hopefully something in that rant made sense to someone, I saw an opportunity to nerd out and went for it.

Before you buy a new coil, did you swap 1 and 3 to see if the problem follows the coil? Surface rust is fine, you'll usually see the layers starting to peel apart before you actually get to a failure condition.

Those left and right AVCS angles should match- I haven't had to do any work involving the oil control valves (OCV, if you were to search on here), but I've seen a couple of posts on here where people have had issues with them. Dunno if that would cause as bad of a miss as you're seeing, but it's certainly not ideal.

 

Coils are definitely a good thing to look at, though. A little surface rust is okay, but if the layers are peeling apart, that's no bueno.

I'm curious about that one, too - in the 2010, the airbag light is illuminated by the airbag control module directly (it's the opposite of other lights, where the airbag light illuminates when the control module applies battery voltage to pin 12 on the connector to the combination meter) while in the 2013 it's done over the canbus from the control module... I wonder if you were to use an airbag control module from a 2013 if it would work? the connector is the same, and other system components are probably the same... don't know if I would want to do that, though, as the "what's the worst that could happen" is pretty bad...

 

In case you don't happen upon it, I moved Brunzo's reply (per his request) over to the cluster transplant thread.

From what I remember, that slave cylinder piston has quite a bit of wiggle to it. Maybe it just jumped off of the end of the fork? Sounds unlikely that it would have just up and done that without something else happening, though.

That sounds familiar, I think the Sport trim cars got that piece. Couldn't tell you where it shows up in Subaru's parts book, but I know enough to say you're not making that up.

 

Edit: found it! https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5839384&postcount=1187

The switch unit has some sort of circuitry in it that stops the driver's window if the current draw is above a certain threshold, so if you feed power directly to the motor without going through the switch, it'll keep on truckin' until it reaches the end of the track whether your fingers are in the way or not. The other 3 windows are powered off of a different fuse, and there's a separate self-resetting breaker somewhere in the dash harness that serves the same purpose.

 

If it's only binding on the way up, it could be out of the track or out of adjustment. I'd think that if there was some sort of stickum in the guides, that'd affect you equally on the way up and down, but maybe the switch's amp draw threshold is higher (or nonexistent, and therefore equal to the fuse rating) on the way down.

Doesn't sound like a bad idea, provided they hold on well enough to stand up to the winds. They're still more of a novelty up here (produce enough to pay for themselves, and offset your electrical bill if you're lucky), but we don't usually have hurricanes blowing through. The longest I've been without power in the ~1.5 years I've been in my house is about 24 hours, but that was long enough to get me looking at generators and transfer switches, and I'd have to imagine reliable backup power is a little higher priority for you than it is for me.

I've been keeping a pretty close eye on the forecast, and it seems like the odds of things getting that far west have been dropping pretty steadily. I can tolerate a little rain and wind- as long as I can make it from the hotel to the World of Beer across the parking lot, I'll survive.

Huh, and here I am, trying to fly in to Tampa on Tuesday for work. I'm sure that'll go well...

I think the issue is that heat and time aren't particularly kind to the seals. They're constantly below the oil level, too, which helps push oil out and make the issue more apparent, same with weeping head gaskets and such. When I replaced the seals in my Baja at 11 years / 173k miles, they felt like they might shatter if I dropped them on the floor. Replacing valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals isn't a terrible job, although it's definitely easier to do with the engine on a stand. If you can get your arms in there to do plugs, you should be able to handle pulling the valve covers and related gaskets, too, should you decide to give it a shot.

Yeah, I saw that breaker in there as well. I'm iffy on the relay being the issue, though, since that only provides power for the non-driver's windows. Window lock was a shot in the dark, thinking that maybe it's both a popped driver's window fuse and the lock switch being on, or something like that.

 

Since the only common link between all 4 windows looks to be that ground wire coming out of the switch, I'd make sure there's ground on the harness side of that 3-pin connector plugged into the driver's switch cluster first. While you're in there, make sure the ground connection isn't burnt up inside the switch by pushing the driver's window switch (up or down doesn't matter) and checking continuity across that 3-pin on the switch cluster- pushing the switch in any direction will close the circuit across the motor, so you should see continuity.

You're saying the window switches on the other doors don't operate those windows, or the driver's door controls don't operate any of the windows? When the other 3 doors' switches are sitting neutral, they'll pass through the power/ground signals from the driver's switch cluster, and when you press one of those other 3 switches, that window's motor finds ground through the driver's switch cluster.

 

The weird thing is, the power going to the driver's switch cluster that would power the other 3 windows (from the relay) doesn't go to the driver's window motor at all, and the driver's switch cluster brainbox doesn't look to have to be functional for the other window switches to work. Any chance you have the window lock turned on?

 

The whole works does share a common ground, though. If you get at the back of the driver's window switch cluster, there should be a 3-pin connector with power on pin 1 and ground on pin 3- the power wire in that connector only feeds the driver's window motor, but if you don't have ground there, that's a problem.

I had to re-soldier them on my old Monte Carlo.

 

What year? I re-soldered the contacts on my mom's old '96 Monte, wonder if that was a common thing...

 

From what I'm seeing, the power running to the rear windshield deicer is what energizes the coil on the mirror heater relay, so if the heated mirrors work, you should at least have power coming out of the fuse block. There should be a 2-pin connector back there somewhere (maybe in the trunk at the base of the windshield?), and if you poke at the car-side connector, you should have 12V on one side and some non-zero resistance value on the other side. No power is obviously bad, very low resistance is a short upstream of the heating element, and open circuit is also bad.

Well, let us know how it goes either way. If it turns out that it does fit, you'll be a hero!

In order to post in the classifieds, you need to have been a member for 30 days, and have made 15 contributory posts. Once you hit both of those, though, you should be in good shape.

Welcome to the site! Here's a link to the Cars For Sale subforum, but be aware that site rules require you to make 15 contributory posts before you'll be able to create a thread in that subforum.

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/cars-sale-29.html

Chances are, you'd be able to swap in the front and rear diffs from a '14 Outback, the final drive ratio is a little different to counter the taller tires. I'm guessing any benefits you'd get as a result of the change from 3.70:1 to 3.90:1 wouldn't be worth the expense, though.

If you click on the "edit" button, there should be a "delete" button down toward the bottom-right allowing you to delete the post- click that, click the "delete message" option from the list that pops up, then hit "delete this message" at the bottom-right corner.

CAN is controller area network, which is the language the various computer modules in cars use to talk to each other. I'm not convinced this is that, though, based on what you're describing- I'd start with the clutch switch and go from there.

For the $20 it'd cost for a new switch, this is one of the very few times I might actually advocate throwing parts at a problem as a first line of defense. You might be able to simulate a "good" switch by jumping the terminals on the harness first, though, since the car would just think you were trucker shifting and shouldn't throw any codes- the clutch stroke sensor sits inline with the starter relay and doesn't talk to anything else, so having those two switches disagree wouldn't make the ECU angry.

The car still starts, right? Sounds like it could be the clutch pedal switch (the one that tells the ECM when the pedal is all the way up, not the stroke sensor that inhibits the starter unless the clutch pedal is pressed) flaking out, or possibly something with the wiring to that switch. The gear indicator only lights up when the clutch pedal is all the way up, and the automatic parking brake release only triggers when that switch closes. Could also be that the mounting nut is loose and the switch is fine, but you'll know that when you see it. I believe this is the correct part, though: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Premium-Sedan/SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-CLUTCH/49294020/83281AA000.html

 

That doesn't explain the loss of power, though, unless maybe the ECU is smart enough to limit you to wastegate boost pressure when the clutch pedal is depressed? It would do that if you're in limp mode for other reasons, too, just spitballing ideas.

I think what he's getting at is that the Cobb OTS tunes have the same boost target in all gears, as opposed to 8psi in 1st-3rd and 12psi in 4th-6th like the stock tune. Shouldn't take a high gear pull to verify your fix- you ought to see it get above 8psi if you give 'er the berries in 2nd, and that's a little easier to get away with in most locations.

I got you covered on the title. Glad to hear you were able to get them to repair it rather than totaling it out!