TRS

I went with the Toshiba HIR 9011 (simple tab trim mod to fit 9005 socket) bulbs for the highs...

 

http://i24.ebayimg.com/03/i/02/4d/f9/07_12_s.JPG

 

and Philips X-treme Power H7 bulbs in the projector lows...

 

http://www.lighting.philips.com/europe/image_region/consumer_lighting/car_lighting/s_prod_h7_xp.jpg

 

While the Toshiba and Phillips are a cooler colors than the the PIAA Xtreme White Plus (4000K) highs and Xtreme Force (4700K) lows I was running, the new bulbs offer a noticeable improvement in usable light over the PIAAs.

 

Phillips claims up to 80% more light with the X-treme Power bulbs over standard halogens. I've been getting flashed on occassion since putting them in and I wasn't before. They're properly seated so it just must be that they are putting out a lot more light (2500 lumens @ 3700K) and the aim will need to be tweaked down just a tad.

what type of LEDs did you use for the replacement? im interested din some LEDs but i don't know where to get them and how they go in.. thanks

I got them from Autolumination.com and used the Super White color, which goes nicely with the electroluminescent gauges.

 

For the map lights I'm using 31mm "6 LED Super High Flux" festoon bulbs.

 

For the the dome and the front door puddle lights I put in the 31mm "12 LED Two-Face" festoon bulbs. The dome enclosure has an opening in the top to allow heat to dissipate so I turned that bulb into a vertical position so that the output of half of the LEDs wasn't wasted illuminating up into the hole and the inside of the headliner. In the door lights the indirect light off the backside fills out the lens nicely.

 

In the trunk I used the 194 "5 LED Matrix" wedge bulb but they've since come out with a 194 "SMT Super High Flux Tower" that would put out more light.

 

I've ordered a few times from them and they have reasonable, quick shipping.

 

Here are some not so great shots, but you get the idea...

 

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/DSCN0060.jpg

 

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/DSCN0058.jpg

 

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/LED_interior_lighting.jpg

http://www.myvet.com/images/schnauser2.gif

"the weasel made me do it"

 

Why is this site no longer working?

Link works for me.

I was under the car last night, had the exhaust off and was poking around the rear dif just to see what I could see. I discovered that there was quite a bit of play in my passenger side CV joint on the dif end of the axle. It was enough that when I grabbed the axle and pushed and pulled on it I could feel and hear it clunking. The other side only had a small amount of play.

 

Source of the noise on hard acceleration? Even if it isn't I still need to have it looked at.

 

Anybody else feel like grabbing their axle and checking out the joint?

While installing my rear sway bar mount reinforcement brackets I discovered that I had lost a bolt connecting to my Y pipe and gained the Hog-zawst mod. And I thought all the extra noise was because I recently replaced the OEM header and the 3rd cat with a high flow one.

This a harmonic vibration that is being passed into the car from the driveline... due to cold HARD bushings. When the bushings get cold, they are less compressible and less flexible.

So we don't really want somebody to come out with a stiffer polyurethane bushing then. Otherwise it would happen when it's warm out too.

Stage 2

Auto

Lowered

nope' date=' just that they advertise for Legacy fitment, but it's for the WRX.[/quote']The blame really belongs on the few misinformed vendors that list this part as applicable to the Legacy. The current Whiteline catalog (Legacy section attached) shows no fitment for our rear diff bushings.

http___www.whiteline.com.au_docs_catalogues_WL_0323-1.pdf

The busings labeled as (8) above are the ones I think we need to worry about..... IMHO.

You only have to worry about those bushing if you have an Impreza, because it's the diagram for their rear diff mount.

 

Here's how the Legacy rear diff mounts to our subframe (bushings shaded in red)...

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/RearDiffMount-1.jpg

 

Again...there are no aftermarket replacements for these bushings available as of yet.

I bought the bushing kit early last fall based on the fact that a couple of

vendors did have the part listed as applicable to the Legacy. After

receiving them and actually getting under the car and looking at our rear

diff mounting method I could not see how these bushings would work for

us. I believe the vendors were misinformed. I could not find any

manufacturer that listed a BL/BP Legacy application.

 

Notice the differential mounting brackets, and the vertical orientation of the

bushings at the ends of the read diff front member in the pictures...

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/attachment.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/attachment-1.jpg

 

Now notice the way our Legacy's rear diff is mounted. No mounting bracket

and the bushings in the front member are horizontal, not vertical...

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/RearDifF.jpg

 

I'm not saying there is absolutely no way that these could work on the

Legacy. I'm just trying to keep anybody else from wasting money on them.

If somebody does in deed get these to work it would be great (and

fantastic if they solved the noise problem).

 

FYI...attached is the official catalog listing of all BL/BP parts from Whiteline,

current as of Jan 3rd, 2007.

http___www.whiteline.com.au_docs_catalogues_WL_0323.pdf

Just because a web site says they're for the Legacy doesn't make it so. Ask Whiteline, Kartboy or SuperPro if they make these for the Legacy. I hope somebody figures out how to get these to work on the Legacy (and they take care of the noise problem) but I couldn't see how to make it happen.

 

Here's what you'll get...

 

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/WHITELINEKSB751.jpg

 

These are the instructions...

 

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/WLKSB751.jpg

 

And these are the locations of the rear differential bushings on the Legacy...

 

front

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/RearDifF.jpg

 

rear

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/ReadDifR.jpg

Before everyone rushes out to buy bushings... we should find a vendor, install them on 1 car, and make sure that it fixes the problem.

As of a couple months ago when I did a lot of searching, nobody is making them yet. There are a few web vendors that list a Whiteline, SuperPro and/or KartBoy Rear Diff Support 'Front' Bushing kit for the Legacy but they are actually for the Impreza and don't work on the Legacy.

Member laz figured out that it's the brown wire on the white connector that people unplug to disable the DRLs that actually control them.

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album25/IMG_5056.sized.jpg

 

Cut this brown wire.

 

http://deexboy.com/albums/album25/IMG_5058.sized.jpg

 

Extend the two ends of the cut wire and attach to your new switch. I mounted mine to the left of the steering column.

I wanted it a little further to the left so it wasn't hidden but there is a metal brace there behind the dash.

 

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/drlswitch2.jpg

 

With the switch in the on position the DRLs function in the stock manner. In the off position they remain off

but your headlights will illuminate fully when turned on via the stalk switch.

 

My switch has an led indicator light so I tapped a circuit at the fuse box that is powered when the ignition

is in the on position and ran that to the third terminal on the switch.

 

Here is the thread where it was discussed...

DRL switch

So you are running a white and yellow combination? I was thinking about this and thought it might look pretty cool.

Yes.

 

Not the best pictures, but there are a couple HERE.

I've done the mod that allows the fogs to operate independently, and also placed a switch on the DRLs so I can choose when to have them on.

 

I've found that for really dense fog or heavy snow at night, I get the best visibility by turning on the parking lights, turning on my DRLs with my installed rocker switch, and turning on the fog lights (full headlights don't have to be on for the fogs to operate with the mod, or any lights for that matter). This results in the tail and all marker lights being illuminated, the low beams (using PIAA Xtreme White Plus) on at the reduced DRL level for forward light without a lot of backscatter (and identification by oncoming/cross-traffic), plus my fogs (using PIAA Ion Crystal) down low providing excellent foreground illumination.

So, with this MOD...can you turn on the main cabin dome light without turning on the map lights? My daughters like to read in the car when we are driving at night. Sorry if it was already stated and I missed it.

 

Cheers,

Mike

 

Yes, the mod has both front map lights come on with the dome light when the door is opened, and then all fade out together after the door is closed, as well as allowing the the dome light to be switched on independently from the maps lights.

All good reading so far guys - just wondering if anyone has combined this with some LED replacement "globes" ?

That would also take any load of the control module & I was wondering if the LEDs might do the job of the added diodes by themselves(as they ARE a diode)?

Also not sure if the LED "globes" will behave ok with dimming etc.

 

 

I did the mod a while ago and recently replaced the incandescent bayonet bulbs with LED ones. The fadeout works and does so at the same rate.

I wish it was easier to run fogs indepently for us "un" electrical technician minded.

To have fogs that can illuminate without any other lights:

 

Follow the instructions here http://www.moojohn.com/subaru/fogmod.html but don't do the step where you tap into the purple wire.

Instead, do as stated here http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=60174&postcount=66.

You can use an Add-A-Circuit or Access-A-Fuse to tap the CIGAR fuse that's mentioned.

 

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/B0009U64H4.01-A385A0XNQBW8HY._AA250_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpghttp://www.accessafuse.com/images/mini.jpg

 

This will allow you to run fogs only, fogs & parking lights, or fogs & headlights. If swithced on, the fogs will extinguish when you use the high beams and also when you turn the ignition to off.

 

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/piaa_fog_only.jpg

East Schaumburg?

Hey guys, I had a similar sound coming from the rear of my car under hard acceleration in 1st and sometimes 2nd. I took my car the my dealership, and they put sensors all over my suspension and found that the problem was the rear struts making noise when they were loaded pretty hard. They gave me no crap about being TDC stage 2, and did all the work under warranty. It has been three weeks since and I have not heard the noise again.

 

Any idea what they did?

Began doing it the last couple months at WOT from a standing start. Thought it might be the rear suspension loading up at first but don't think so now. No obvious signs of any contact between sway, exhaust, diff, etc.

Most of those extra lumens seem to go to lighting up a broader field of view with little added depth. The tree tops are nicely illuminated and reflective surfaces normally above the low beam cut-off are visible further ahead, but when I use my brights they don't seem add much distance. I was driving the wife's ride the other night, which has a pair of Hella driving lights wired to switch on with the highs. Now those throw some extra light waaaay down the road.

Did it well over a year ago and never have had any problem.

Any Chicago guys wanna go to a Rotary event Sat?

http://www.farmingtonil.com/doc/clubs/rotary1.gif OR http://rotary.net.nz/images/mrec_s.gif ?