Fabsx

Check your dust plates behind rotors

Occasionally during brakes or swapping wheels, they can get knock into the rotor causing such said noises.

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I always took the solid color as positive and whatever the other color is with a strip color as negative.

I always tested the speakers before finalizing installation

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Leaning towards possibly the coupling that goes from tmic to throttle body.

What is your vacuum at idle/or boost from AP without AC on fully warmed up?

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Anyone beating 400+ lately?

Count me in

500whp lol

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Wtf... I never suggested that.

 

Car in park, partial throttle, move wiring around to see if RPMs change.

 

Ideally you would want to use a scan tool with live data to view MAF and TB signals while moving the wiring around, then the engine wouldn't need to be running at all.

And I copied quote from your post

“If I were him, after ruling out any visible wire damage, I would have someone press the accelerator with the engine running while flexing”

^^^^^^^^^^^

Stated running

But whatever, here to help anyways.

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Lasfit LS plus series H7

72w bulbs

Best one yet and I’ve went through a few brands to find the best. Coming from using 55w hids which could be hard to compare. Lasfit beats them.

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You're focusing on the specific parts the codes are for (TB and MAF) instead of what the codes mean.

 

He has 4 circuit codes for two different parts. It's most definitely a wiring problem.

 

If I were him, after ruling out any visible wire damage, I would have someone press the accelerator with the engine running while flexing the wires for the main harness. There could be an internal break/short.

I would absolutely not run the vehicle doing this! Lol

It’s a maf based system, opening up the intake tract, while running will cause bigger issues.

I clearly stated the same thing you stated but with the engine running.

But what do I know anyways right?

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I will have a better look at it this weekend and check the wiring and inspect the MAF.

The throttle body on it is aftermarket, according to the previous owner. It did look new when I took of the cover on the intake.

I’ve seen and heard of aftermarket throttle body causing issues.

Maybe pop off intake, car on but not running and have someone push the throttle pedal to the floor and verify that the actual throttle plate is opening 100% with 100% input at pedal.

Just this week, had someone with a MAF code and ended up being a little fuzz inside the MAF sensor, blew it out and ran perfectly.

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Sorry I haven’t replied in a while. I appreciate all the input. I have not been able to drive the car as it won’t even make it out of the driveway. I did take the the cat off and it still won’t move. Still wants to bog at idle and when u put it in drive or reverse, it won’t move. I am at a loss. Once it cools down I am able to move it but as soon as I stop, it will move no more. I can only move it when the car is completely cold and only until I come to a stop.

 

So I tried my diag tool again and finally pulled 4 codes. Accel pedal a P0123, accel pedal b P0223, MAF circuit low P0102, and intake air temp circuit high P0113.

 

So now I guess throw parts at it? Lol.

Throttle Position sensor seems to be correlation with p0123, is the new TB Oem or aftermarket?

P0102 for Maf is interesting.. remove your Maf sensor from intake and verify there is nothing inside near the wires. Occasionally a hair or bug can get stuck inside the Maf sensor causing issues.

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Inspecting the front now. Both top sliders moves fine, the bottom one is frozen. Had a really hard time pulling the pin out. Got it out, clean and greased. I wasn't able to put the bottom one back in. After doing some research it seems like the rubber gets swollen up and will prevent it from going back in. Many people said they just removed it. Did that and it went back in with no problem. Anyone else had this issue? If you did, did you remove the rubber as well or did you just get a new slide pin?

Get some good heat in there, the caliper bracket and heat that up vs the slider itself.

It’ll heat up enough to where you can twist the slider out.

If you’re careful enough, you can reuse the sliders and get rid of the rubber inside. I just normally pack it with grease.

But to make it permanent, get new sliders, clean out the bracket inside with a wire brush to remove rust and your set.

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I've asked a lot of people and no one said that. The funny thing is doing the brakes was the last thing that was done to the car.

 

I've never done brakes myself but I know what the components are. Is there an easy way to check to see if the caliper are seized?

If you can move the calipers piston in, your good

If the slider pins are stuck, they wont move in and out of the caliper bracket. Typically it’s the one with the rubber boot end.

Edit; given your mileage and if your going to diagnose the brakes. Flush/bleed the brakes with new fluid to justify being near the brakes again. Crack the bleeders open while to verify each caliper isn’t seized. I have issues with the slider pins seizing and sticking causing abnormal wear. I just went with brembos after that since they dont have sliders

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Worth checking.. something people oversight. Check your brakes. They could be sticking, seized caliper or slide pins.

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Check fender liner

What did you remove? I would jack it up, remove wheel, have someone turn the wheel, or turn it by hand with keys in acc mode to unlock wheel.

That should help you narrow down to noise

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1.7” piston

Or 43.18mm

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I’ve seen those coating come off after some mileage.

I normally use a credit/bendable card as a spacer with no issues between all the guides.

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So I don’t know what caused the issue in the first place. The person I got it from said it had a dead accelerator pedal. They tried replacing the throttle body and that didn’t fix it so the person sold it to me. Was hoping to make a nice economic daily out of it. There are no check engine or error codes at all. No pending, history, or current codes. Idk if they cleared them or what but there is nothing.

Long shot.. check throttle pedal.

Also, does your dash show when you into park or drive?

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Lasfit LS Plus series h7.

72w/pair, 8000LM/pair

Hands down best ones yet and have great customer care

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Can you elaborate a little on what you mean by this? I’ve been reading that these coils rarely go bad.

Our coilpacks insist of three components.

Coils itself, the boot and spring inside the boot.

If you carefully twist off the rubber boot, you will see a spring inside. I typically would remove the spring, give it a few pulls to stretch it out about an 1” from its original length.

Then alittle dielectric grease in the boot to aid the spring back in and it should make a better contact to spark reducing any misfires issues at boost.

I’m sure if you look up “wrx coilpack mod” you’ll see some photos or something in that nature.

I’ve ran OTL coilpacks after any Oem coilpacks good bad. Claim to be stronger spark, but can’t justify that.

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Finished up the steering cover, install new headunit with backup camera.

Also did some maintenance work, including sparkplugs, AOS lines replacement, oil change, GFB BPV on EFR turbo and added another cly4 mod but to cyl3 to help with any imbalance caused by cyl 4 only.

So far, everything is great and running absolutely amazing.

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Verify spring inside coil boot is stretched out alittle.

I’ve seen some push back far enough to cause issues in boost. I always verify I can touch them with my pinky before reinstalling.

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Wouldn't they then get updated? The accessport manager phones home when you launch it.

 

It doesnt matter really anyway, doing some more poking around those are all for the 2010 GT. The WRX files are in a separate folder

Not unless you turn off wifi/internet to just install a file/remove a log

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Here is what I have. DM me if it'll help you

 

Two of the below are for a 2008 WRX. I'm not sure how you would tell them apart

If you load them in the manager, it should state which vehicle it is for

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Clean your maf sensor, relearn ecu.

Might be worth checking for vacuum leaks as well. Especially around your tmic(splitting endtanks) and tmic to throttle (known to leak given your mileage)

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So I cannot argue with this mod being stock on the JDM, but I assume that the hot coolant is not routed directly to the suction side of the water pump, bypassing the radiator. Does anyone have images or an understanding of the JDM/OEM version of this mod?

 

Regarding lower coolant temperatures being observed after the mod, if the mod is redirecting hot coolant directly into the water pump, bypassing the crossover tube and radiator, are those lower temperatures you observe a result of the thermostat being heated using hot coolant versus cooled coolant exiting the radiator?

 

This would explain the lower temperature observed at the coolant temperature sensor in the crossover tube. If that is true, an alternative option would be to install an aftermarket thermostat.

 

The other question is whether or not cylinder 4 is an issue with our engines since they have EL headers. I'll do some forum digging, but this I am still not sold on this mod, apart from it being found in JDM models. If so, I would want to exactly replicate the JDM mod...

Forgot to mentioned that my “observations” are from my external coolant gauge. Not using or looking at the factory oem one. Therefore I’m sure that my readings are indeed from the mod itself.

Also, I do already have a oem lower thermostat that has been on for years before doing the cyl4 mod.

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I have been looking into justifications for this mod and have not found anything convincing, apart from the previous post in which it is claimed that this mod is the stock configuration for JDM legacy engines. From my understanding, the stock head gaskets have small oval cut-outs to allow coolant to pass from the lower interior of blocks into the cylinder heads and then back into the upper interior of the blocks.

 

These oval cut-outs are smaller than the cross-section in the block/cylinder head castings. They are also of uniform of uniform size, which leads me to believe they are purposefully introduced to impose relatively uniform flow from one side to the other. This is the basis for fluid manifold design, where a large reduction in cross-section allows for relatively uniform flow (shower head, sprayers, etc). Thus the placement of the coolant inlets (from the water pump) and outlets (to the crossover pipe) really should not matter much, as long as the cut-outs in the head gaskets are small enough to impose a large pressure drop.

 

Is there any solid data showing that mod works well at all? I think that we would need to have an idea about the temperatures of the cylinders before installing the mod, and then after. So not just cylinder four, but all of them, since the mod could result in a cooler cylinder four but the other cylinders being hotter.

 

The other issue is what the cooling performance is at different engine speeds, the cylinder four mod seems like it introduces a significant imbalance between the right and left coolant paths. This imbalance would only get worse at higher pressures.

 

The other issue I do not see brought-up that could have to do with cylinder four issues is the fact that both cylinders 3 and 4 have more tortuous exhaust paths when exiting the cylinder heads. I would expect more heat transfer from the exhaust existing these cylinders due to this. Combine this with all of the UEL header issues that significant impact cylinder 4, and I am highly doubting that this mod is worth the risk for any EJ engine, especially ours with equal length headers.

 

Am I over thinking this ?

Running it since my last build.

It was much more work then a 4th gen GT. But it has actually brought coolant temps overall. Being with fmic, I saw 10degrees drop cruising and typically in the summer time, i would be around 200+ish. Now seeing 185-194 driving.

Tuner didn’t notice anything different in timing during the tune, but who knows if it helped. More of an insurance being placed then guessing if it does anything.

I’ll spend $100 any day on things that’ll “help” with cly 4.

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