Neukam

You're welcome

I'll try to elaborate as best I can, but bear in mind that some details have been lost from memory after seven years, and I can barely remember yesterday. Targeting a vent temp of 38 degrees is shouldn't be too aggressive. Taking your measurement at the vent is no problem. That's how I did it. You'll need to have the fan speed fairly low to have the A/C cycling so that you can make your adjustment. To clarify, you're not actually adjusting the steady state temperature. You're adjusting the low temperature cutoff (and the reset temperature as a side effect). I had initially set mine to cut off at 34 degrees, but found that the evaporator would freeze up sometimes when taking a long trip on a rainy day. I don't remember the details about the voltages, and I seems that I didn't convey those details very well in my original post. You really don't need to worry about the voltage on that circuit, just adjust the trimmer until the compressor turns OFF at the desired cutoff temperature. All this mod does is make the controller think the evaporator temperature is warmer than it actually is so that it doesn't cycle off too early, and so that it cycles back on sooner. Reduce the resistance to reduce the cutoff temperature. Increase the resistance to increase the cutoff temperature (closer to stock). I hope that helps clarify things.

I don't have a means to read the temperature that is actually reported by the sensor, but we are essentially tuning that sensor to read whatever it needs to read to get the desired result. You can measure the air temperature at the vent if you have an accurate thermometer or you can convert the low side refrigerant pressure to the saturation temperature of you have a good set of gauges. You'll need to pay attention to the temperature at which the a/c cycles off. You then adjust the trim pot until the system cycles off at the desired temperature. You'll probably need to have the fan speed set fairly low to get the system to cycle off and on. You want the system to cycle at as low of a temp as possible without icing up. 38 degrees is a good target. You might be able to get away with 36 but i wouldn't go any lower than that.

Those pots should work fine. I think the person responsible for testing the system is the same person that was responsible for aligning the cabin air filter to the access hole in the glovebox.

I haven't done the swap yet but I've been reading. I believe some people have reported issues with the divorce plate on the Invidia interfering with the wastegate. Be sure to check it and grind the divorce plate for clearance if you need to. Some people have also had problems with boost creep with the VF52 and high flowing exhaust and have had to port the wastegate. Not everyone has these problems, just things to watch out for.

That makes sense. Maybe I'll do the same. Does the Tactrix mount nicely in place of the stock solenoid?

You just never know...

I'm also interested in the injectors if zactek doesn't buy them

^^^^ The best catless uppipes [beer] money can buy ^^^^

From what I've read, all the catless uppipes perform about the same at stage 2 power levels. Some of the solid pipes are more prone to having fitment issues, and flex joints are potentially more prone to failure. STI pipes are catless, as are 07+ LGT pipes. The cat on your stock pipe can be gutted as well, making it into a catless uppipe. Just be sure to remove all traces of the converter if you go that route. When installing a catless uppipe, you will probably be removing the EGT sensor (which can also break and damage the turbo) so you will either have to disable the EGT sensor codes when you reflash the ECU or install a 2k2 resistor in place of the sensor. Some aftermarket uppipes have a bung to reinstall the factory EGT sensor, but it serves no purpose after the cat has been removed. Hope this helps.

I run the best quality oil filter that the auto parts store has at the time for a 2001 Honda Civic. They are the same width and thread as the Subaru filter but taller. Another member mentioned Mobil 1 M-110, which is the filter for a 2001 Civic, BTW. I like having the larger size filter. In my opinion, having a good quality filter with adequate filter media is extremely important. I usually buy the Mobil 1 if available, but I've run Bosch Distance Plus, K&N, Purolator One, etc. There may be a "best" filter but I feel that any of the "premium quality" oil filters should be sufficient. Sometimes Autozone has oil change specials which include an STP filter and are cheaper than just buying the oil so I grab a random STP filter and throw it in the trash as I'm walking out the door. All of this is my opinion and is worth exactly what you paid for it.

When I bought my LGT, someone had broken one of the mounting studs off and had attempted to glue it back on with RTV. Needless to say, the RTV didn't hold for long. I drove it that way for about 2 years before I got around to replacing the strut mounts and installing Koni yellows. If the other 2 are intact, you can change it at your leisure and not worry about it unless you're planning to run a rally race.

I'm planning on installing a VF52 soon and I'm curious if you had issues tuning the factory boost control solenoid or if you upgraded to the 3 port "just because"

Another upgrade to consider is replacing the glove box with 08+ parts to make replacing the cabin air filter easier. Don't buy the "upgrade" that Subaru released for the earlier cars. Shame on Subaru for that mess.

If it's a 5EAT, add a trans cooler and do a transmission fluid and filter change. The filter a spin on and is located on the cooler lines behind the battery. I bulletproofed my leaking stock intercooler at 90k. It's holding up fine now at 145k. Sometimes the coil connectors get brittle and break when you disconnect them, especially #3 because of the heat from the turbo. The connector shell can be replaced without replacing the terminals. Keep an eye out for corrosion on any electrical connectors. Maybe clean them with some contact cleaner while they're apart. When reinstalling the coils, it can be a bit of a pain to line up the spark plug boots with the plugs. It helps to pry the engine over a little bit. I have an approximately 5ft long bar that I use for this purpose. I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket intake. ANY changes to the intake pre-MAF will require tuning. Leave the resonator and snorkel in place. Aftermarket paper air filters have been known to affect MAF scaling as well. Oiled K&N style filters will eventually destroy the MAF, even if not oiled excessively. Subaru OEM air filters are recommended. Check the turbo inlet tube. They deteriorate and tear at the inlet of the turbo. Aftermarket silicone turbo inlets are available but are generally more difficult to install than a stock replacement, and most will require a BPV recirc hose from an 07+LGT/08+WRX. Also check the hose from the intercooler to the throttle body. Zip ties on vacuum lines aren't a bad idea. If you have to remove any vacuum, pcv, or coolant hoses, be prepared to replace them. They get hard and brittle over time and will sometimes split, tear, or just not seal properly after reinstallation. Wheel bearing failure is common on these cars, particularly the rears. Keep an eye on oil level and keep an eye out for leaks. My right side valve cover leaked and the oil would burn on the exhaust manifold. The smoke from the burning oil coming out of the hood scoop caused the paint on the scoop to blister and peel off. Working on these engines may be intimidating at first glance, but I have found that most jobs are easier than they initially appear to be. Most of the problems that I've had with my car can be traced to deteriorated rubber and plastic parts, just due to the age of the car.

I sounds like a motor running and the only motors I know of under the dash are the HVAC blower and the HVAC servo motors (if it has auto climate control). In the first video, I can hear the blower separately from the noise, so it's not that. It could be one of the servo motors, but I've never heard one sound like that. They normally make a ticking or grinding sound when they go bad. This sounds more like a pump. Have you checked under the hood to see if the noise is being transmitted through the firewall? My first thought is maybe fuel lines somehow got bent or are not secured properly and are transmitting vibrations to the firewall. A defective fuel pulse damper might exaggerate the problem. Turbo models have a fuel pump controller that initially runs the fuel pump at full speed, then reduces the duty cycle under low load conditions. I'm not sure if non-turbo models have that system or not. A mechanic's stethoscope would be useful in pinpointing the problem. Lisle makes a nice one.

I'm glad it helped. I've been running mine that way for 6 years and it's still working friggen awesome

This method does keep the stock sensor hooked up. It just allows you to adjust the sensor's output. It's like using a piggy back computer to rescale a MAF sensor. Same concept. The a/c will still cycle but with the pot, you can set it to cycle when YOU want it to. Mine was cycling somewhere around 45 degrees, which was very noticeable when it's hot outside but not so noticeable when its cool. Now it doesn't cycle when the fan is maxed, but will cycle as needed when the fan speed drops and the demand is low, and isn't as noticable because the evaporator doesn't warm up as much because of the low demand.

I bought my 05 LGT wagon 2 weeks ago and the a/c has been cycling between kick ass and warm (which is really friggen annoying). The car has the dual zone climate control. I figured it was probably low so I recharged it with 15oz but the problem continued. I found the evaporator temp sensor connector and checked the voltage across the sensor. The compressor kicks off at 2.06 volts on my car. I went to radioshack and got a 100k ohm trimmer potentiometer and soldered it to two jumper wires with spade terminals. The jumpers connect inline between the evaporator temp sensor and the vehicle harness. The pot parallels the sensor. I adjusted the pot so that the compressor kicks off at 34 degrees. Riding down the road with a/c cranked, its blowing at 38-39 degrees and not cycling The temp sensor connector is under the passanger side of the dash, above the lower panel. Remove the 3 push in fasteners and pull the carpet back a bit and the panel will pull out. The wires on my car are Light Blue and Brown-White on the harness side of the connector. To lower the cut off temp and reduce cycling, lower the resistance. To increase cut off temp and prevent evaporator freeze up, increase the resistance. I started at about 10k and ran the a/c at low fan speed until the vent temp got to about 38 degrees, then increased the resistance until the voltage across the connector got to about 2V. This caused the compressor to cut off at 34 degrees. This is as close to freezing as I want to get. If it freezes up I will increase the resistance to raise the cut off, but for now I'm happy with it. I didn't check to see what resistance I ended up with, but it will likely be different with each vehicle. I don't think setting the resistance too low (i.e. 0 ohms) will do any harm, but here comes the disclaimer... I am not responsible for any damage, personal injury, loss of sex drive, loss of marrige, etc. that may result from applying the information contained in this post. Do so at your own risk. Yada yada yada and so on and so forth... The first pic is the lower panel with the 3 retainers to remove. The second pic is the connector with the jumper and pot in place. This might be a good candidate for the Compilation of cheap and/or free Legacy Mods sticky. Total cost under $5. Enjoy!