StkmltS

Nothing has changed, and the misfire is still alive and well in the rebuilt motor.

 

I don't completely ignore the misfire, but I've learned to run BtSsm less often so the roughness count isn't always staring me in the face saying "Look at me! I'm still here, I love you, and there's nothing you can ever do to make me leave." Of course I could always turn off the roughness count display in BtSsm... but where's the fun in that?

 

I recorded an interesting log when I was idling in the parking lot one day after work a few months ago, but I haven't looked at it yet because I've been on a good stretch lately and I'd just rather not renew my frustration. At this point I don't even remember what was going on that made me record the log, I just remember that it was idling really weird and doing stuff I don't remember seeing before. It's a really good story with crappy details.

 

The thing that kills me about my misfire is that I can always make the misfires stop just by making the car go more than 0 mph. Fowards or backward, in gear or in neutral, handbrake on or off, engine warm or cold... 0 mph seems to be the only constant. Lately I've been thinking more and more about replacing the ECU to see if that's the problem. I would have already replaced it by now if it didn't require a trip to the dealer or a nervous test of my sketchy soldering skills.

 

I get misfires every once in a while in a certain rpm range when the car is moving, but I think that has something to do with the stumble/studder thing commonly associated with our stock FPRs. I may replace the FPR with an adjustable one this summer. I'm not seeing the pressure that the FSM says I should see, so why not give it a shot? I'll probably get an adjustable FPR #BecauseRaceCar, and I'd like to be able to play around with fuel pressure to see if that does anything to the misfire condition.

 

Back in mid-December baby #5 crawled out of my wife (more or less that's how it works) and since then my non-essential car time has been reduced from 1 minute per day, to a level that's effectively equal to zero minutes per week(end). A few months prior to the baby we added a '15 Express 2500 van to our driveway, so that's also something you can look forward to if you ever decide to have more kids than normal vehicles are designed to carry. What about minivans, you say? Don't forget about huge car seats built to withstand Daytona-500 type crashes, compatible strollers for the previously mentioned car seats, normal strollers, compact strollers, bicycles, tricycles, wagons, dragons, coolers, droolers, blankets, diaper bags, pool toys, cousins, and occasional trips to Home Depot for as many bags of mulch and 2x4s that I can fit on the cart (with the 4 big kids riding along, naturally). Large vans also have ample headroom that comes in very handy during fast-developing events like last weekend's "oh my gosh, did George just throw up again?" road trip situation.

I didn't have big power goals, but FWIW I used King bearings for the main and rods.

The story behind how their company operates was one of the things that helped me choose King over ACL.

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I don't know why, and I can't justify spending the cash, but I want those.

↑ Wow, nice work.

By where your thumb is pointing?

If yes, then that hose goes to the head and will pretty much always be oily.

New rings are too cheap not to replace. I got NPR rings off ebay for like $50. The description didn't mention anything about being pre-gapped, but they came perfectly gapped to the STI spec.

Isn't that the brake booster hose? Just a normal vacuum hose cut to the correct length should work.

Regarding the gaskets not included... I just didn't replace the ones he mentioned. I even reused my half-moons (after very thoroughly cleaning them). It would be nice if the gasket kit included EVERYTHING, but like he said, whats not there isn't a big deal.

Yeah, man. Draining oil full of gear chunks twice in one year is not my idea of fun. Can't wait for the opportunity to upgrade the drivetrain.

Yeah that's no bueno.

I had a related conversation with my wife about my car last night.

At this point it's an old car, but the body and motor are in such good shape that even if maintenance starts costing me (us) a couple hundred dollars a month it would still make financial sense to keep the car. Since I do all of the work myself the extra cost of upgrading (upgrade price minus OEM price) is usually pretty easy to justify.

Yikes

↑ so you're saying you're ready to become a paying member

In my head the picture of your garage looks like an automotive smorgasbord with rows and rows of shelving filled with a ginormous collection of spare parts, filters, hoses, sensors...

If reality is any different than that don't tell me otherwise, I prefer thinking of your work space as somewhere the mythbusters would visit if they ever got in a pinch.

Let me know if you want a second set of hands or an in-lbs torque wrench.

If you only want logging and real-time data then BtSsm + an android is the way to go.

I thought I fixed that caliper display for you... still showing metric.

Kentucky speedway sounds like a killer time, didn't know they did that. Is it set up with cones like a pseudo autox course or just flat out around the oval? If definitely be down for a relaxing cruise next month one the summer tires are back on.

Flat out.

 

Kentucky Speedway website says limited to 70mph behind pace vehicles. That's disappointing.

It's also not true. Maybe it is sometimes, but when I went a couple years back the pace truck was doing well over 100. Several of us got up to around 120mph on the front straight. Maybe they evaluate the vehicles as they show up and pace everyone as they see fit. My guess is they advertise the 70mph limit so the event doesn't get out of control. It's gotta be a huge liability letting civilians drive around on a race track.

It's still misfiring as much as before, but everything else is great. The right rear corner is sitting a little lower than the rest of the car so my suspension may get some attention this summer. 13+ years on the stock suspension isn't bad, but I'm not looking forward to spending the money on all of the other under-body crap that I probably should replace "while I'm in there".

 

I haven't driving the car much this winter so I'm ready for a fun drive. My friend's '08 LGT is running good (we rebuild it last fall/winter) and he'll probably be interested in joining us.

 

The Kentucky Speedway track day should be coming up sometime in March. $40 for a few 100+ mph laps is a steal of a deal.

As soon as they put a load on it their error would be hilarious.

Maybe it would be strong enough to pull their kid around on a skateboard.

I regreased mine a year or two ago, definitely an easy job.

My issue is the dirty oily crap all over the snout of the starter.

So I pulled out my starter a few weeks ago in an attempt to figure out why my friend's rebuilt motor wouldn't turn over. Turns out (pun intended) I'm an idiot and forgot to connect one of the starter wires on his starter. Problem solved and his YNANSB rebuilt motor started up on the first try.

 

While my starter was out I noticed that the end of it was pretty grimy, like it was oily and dirt was sticking to it. I don't know how it could get that way unless the rear main seal is leaking.

 

I fixed my problem by ignoring it and putting the starter back in without even cleaning it off. Maybe one of these days I'll get out my borescope and look down in there and try to get past the flywheel to take a peek at the seal.

So I pulled out my starter a few weeks ago in an attempt to figure out why my friend's rebuilt motor wouldn't turn over. Turns out (pun intended) I'm an idiot and forgot to connect one of the starter wires on his starter. Problem solved and his YNANSB rebuilt motor started up on the first try.

 

While my starter was out I noticed that the end of it was pretty grimy, like it was oily and dirt was sticking to it. I don't know how it could get that way unless the rear main seal is leaking.

 

I fixed my problem by ignoring it and putting the starter back in without even cleaning it off. Maybe one of these days I'll get out my borescope and look down in there and try to get past the flywheel to take a peek at the seal.

...

I am not sure about the tune. I wanted to pay Subaru to reflash the ECU and the service guy just kinda didn't really tell me that they could or couldn't do that. He seemed to just avoid that question for some reason..

It would be a bit of long drive just for a reflash, but if you're down in the Cincinnati area you can use my Tactrix cable.

Your stock ROM is probably on romraider.com and flashing it to the car is a breeze.

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I hardily second that suggestion.

Spending $100 and religiously checking the oil may help you avoid a $4-6k+ rebuild.

 

My friend and I just finished rebuilding the motor from his '08 because the P0011 code (presumably caused by low oil) went unaddressed for a short amount of time... and the turbo destroyed itself and everything else inside the motor.

 

That doesn't happen to everyone, but the over-advanced timing codes are definitely worthy of respect.

^ I don't remember hearing that from you, but by chance I stumbled upon that exact info this week.

 

I have a few old circuit boards laying around for just this kind of situation, so if I can get comfortable cleanly removing/reinstalling (soldering) tiny components on those old boards I might try to replace the ECU myself.

 

Sent from inner space.