StkmltS

I designed / printed an LGT badge a few years ago and i still like it more than the few other designs I've seen floating around.

I'd be down for making a few for you if you're still looking for options.

I'm not against sharing the file if anybody wants to PM me.

Both attached images are of the same file, just slightly different views.

Crappy pic of it on my car: https://www.instagram.com/p/BDrnGGAmqj9/

Regardless of who you get a badge from:

I'd suggest black ABS for the background and red ABS for the raised letters.

I hate tracking these things down.

My wife is starting to ask if my car is going to ever be running right...

I need to get this resolved

I know the feeling

The correct way to handle this situation is to only talk to your wife about your car issues if and when she asks. Be honest with her and don't lie, but be careful to only give her direct answers that give her confidence in your ability to address these regular maintenance issues that come with turbo Subarus. The single worst phrase I've learned to avoid at all costs is "I think this should be the last thing for a while".

Wow, good job finding that leak.

Hopefully it's your only one.

You can do it!

Maybe I'll try to visit my in-laws up in Louisville sometime and swing by

Do it. There's a big cars and coffee event here in N.Ky on Saturday mornings that's fun to check out, and there's a large Subaru meet late in the summer.

Almost no misfires on the way to work this morning.

Car season is approaching and the itch to solve the mystery is growing again.

On a positive note: BtSsm via heiche's BT dongle is 1000x more convenient than using a tactrix and usb cable every day. I should have bought one a long time ago.

I've been told they do, but I'm pretty sure it won't be a full set for $15 :-D

 

As I was sitting down for the night, I had a thought.

The misfire on #1 now shouldn't be the injector o-ring at this point, I had addressed that.

Checking yet again, I realized that I had swapped the coils between #3 and #1 when I did the valve cover.

On a hail mary (so I wouldn't have to go to the dealer so early) I replaced the new coil with one of my spare coils.

 

Fired it up, no misfires. WTH? that was a new coil...

 

Decided that was pretty much par for the course at this point.

I went for a drive, she drove so smoothly.

20 mins of driving back roads 20-60mph, not a single misfire.

 

Brought her back to the garage, let her idle for 10 min, no misfire.

 

So to bring this all to summation...

 

I had multiple issues.

1. I had tired and leaking o-rings between my intake manifold and TGVs (intermittent misfires on multiple cylinders)

2. I had tired and leaking o-rings on two of my injectors (continuous misfires on two cylinders)

3. I had a "new" coil that was misbehaving (continuous misfires on one cylinder)

 

I also learned that at 196k miles that the exhaust valve clearance on #3 was still perfect.

Happy to learn that.

Also learned that the tiniest of details can muck with your mind multiple times (valve cover gasket)...

 

Going to drive her for 4.5hrs tomorrow.

Hoping and praying she runs just as smoothly as she did tonight.

I really hope your issue is gone and never comes back.

I'll be able to drive my misfire-mobile happily knowing that you're running smoothly.

Yep, I'm learning how to become satisfied by driving vicariously through Internet people.

ok. I am curious how the valves look like. Just so you know, when I scoped mine (#2), I freaked out when I saw a series of 'scratches'. I thought, that was it: ringland failure. but then, I realized it was from piston slap (top and bottom IIRC). And I was using a crappy borescope too (not HD, crappy color reproduction, poor focus).

I also saw scratches inside my cylinder, but the piston was later confirmed to have zero cracks.

So don't freak out if you see minor scratches.

I'm all about jumping to conclusions and spending money based on assumptions (see my build thread), but let's not blame Shell just yet. Remember, the single thing that protects our cars from certain destruction comes from Shell... the almighty Rotella 5w-40.

It could have been a chunk 'o gunk that was floating around in there from another fill up.

In boost I'm pretty much always at zero misfires.

If I don't see misfires at idle + 0 mph my palms get sweaty and my fingertips get numb.

...

I have to travel for work next week, we'll see if I try the o-rings over the weekend or not. Depends what the four kids and wife have in mind...

Four kids, huh... our situations get more and more similar. We've got 5.

. I knew you were going to say something along those lines!

It brings a smile to my face every time

Well, didn't/doesn't your car have issue with a single cylinder misfiring? That's quite different than multiple cylinders misfiring no? That's why I hope the gaskets will fix it.

Yes, but lately it'll occasionally move to a different cylinder. It generally sticks to one cylinder at a time, but in the last few months I've seen #4 occasionally acting like #2 did way back when I started my journey. It's encouraging to finally see that something is changing, maybe even because of something I did on purpose.

I'm open to suggestions.

I've been working on an Infamous base tune.

I have BtSSM up on my nexus full time because I like to see the data.

 

I see the P301-304 in EcuFlash, they are flagged as "enabled"

Is it just setting the value to "disabled" or is it something else?

BtSsm is the shiznit.

Disabling the CEL for misfires is exactly that easy. I think I remember five codes. One for each cylinder and one for a random/general misfire problem.

Time to disable the misfire CEL.

If you're opensource (tactrix) we can help if you need it.

interesting. misfires on the same bank this time. But a peak of 6 is kinna meh to me. Unless it keeps reoccurring (i.e. goes from 0 to 6, then back to 0, then climbs again, and keep cycling like that for a while during idle).

 

 

I did not change the TGV to head gaskets btw. I just changed the orange o-rings. fyi.

 

 

StkmltS, how's your LGT?

Great, mostly, but sometimes no, although yes actually. Thanks for asking.

Right now it has/feels like it has a boost leak somewhere and I'm waiting on warmer/dry weather to try out my new smoke tester (party fog machine).

It's been super funky in boost since I replaced the FPR, so I'm assuming it's a boost leak.

Bringing this back after I read every single post in it...

 

I have a misfire on #3, #1, and #4... sometimes...

...

Welcome to the nightmare.

In a sick kind of way I'm glad you're here.

:spin::spin:

Have you starting counting how many times you've said "Ah ha! This has to be it!"

...

I'm considering the intake O-rings and gasket on the other side of the TGVs since I'm at 195k miles, but not really keen on pulling the intake manifold unless I really have to.

I did not have to completely remove the intake manifold in order to install the gaskets. It is doable, a bit of a pain though.

As Mr. ValveLash already said, it's not very difficult and tots worth a shot. It's also fairly inexpensive compared to... rebuilding the motor

only to discover the misfires DON'T GO AWAY.

I'm still a little salty about that fun little exercise.

...

For counts it depends on the day, sometimes in the single digits or 10s and repeats, sometimes into the 20s or 30s, or even 60s once.

 

It's wildly inconsistent. Sometimes it just never happens and on occasion I get enough to trigger the CEL.

 

My favorite is when it's enough to trigger the CEL, then goes away so it drives smoothly with the flashing cruise light...

That's my favorite too! Maybe our two cars are dopple gangers.

In all seriousness, your symptoms sound incredibly similar to mine.

There's no real pattern, except sometimes, but then not really, but maybe yes, or no.

How many components need replaced before the root cause is discovered? I don't feel like I have a whole lot to contribute anymore because my personal experience has convinced me that my misfires may never go away no matter what I do. They might even be a figment of my ECU's imagination (I'm partially serious... and my ECU will probably get replaced in 2019.)

I was actually thinking of the wrong thing, I was thinking of people logging AFR through the TGV but from this looks like oil pressure is also possible... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-afr-oil-temp-oil-pressure-rear-o2-tgv-left-275477.html

 

and if I remember correctly this is the plug you're looking for

[ATTACH]269283[/ATTACH]

I can confirm that oil (or fuel) pressure can be logged via a deleted TGV as long as you use a pressure transducer with an output of 0-5 volts.

That's also the correct location to put the oil pressure sensor (transducer).

I replaced the stock FPR this weekend.

The idle is still rough and the misfires are still there... but now in cylinders 2 and 3.

Technically that's a change so I'm all smiles.

**see edit from 01-OCT-2018**

After I put on the sti fpr I reset the ECU and let the car idle for about 10 minutes, and then I rev'd the motor like a maniac about 10 times because I want the neighborhood to know that I'm a badass and I work on my cars. After I turned off the motor I noticed a small amount of sweet-smelling smoke coming from near the turbo. Thinking I had a coolant leak to track down I got down and looked under the car. Much to my wonderment the smoke was coming from the rear (3rd) cat. It seems unlikely that coolant would get that far back before dripping onto the exhaust.

Now the motor stumbles really, really badly at mid/high RPMs. It only stumbles under load while driving (rev's fine all the way to high heaven when parked in a driveway), and it feels like a cat might be clogged. I'm concerning enough that I'm going to keep the car parked until I can take off the pipe and take a peek. To be safe I'll probably get out my auger bit and go to town on the cat. Kind of ironic that my Ryobi drill is green.

***01-OCT-2018 edit****

One of the fuel lines was loose/cracked and leaking fuel.

I figured this out before the car blew up, but not before getting stranded on the side of the road in the middle of the night.

Fuel line replaced, user-generated stumble gone, misfires still present.

I did move the ref line to the BPV line, and the nipple on the IM is capped off. I don't remember if I made the move before or after the rebuild, and this is a monster thread so at this point all duplicated questions will be excused. Sometimes asking the same question slightly differently gets people thinking differently, and maybe I (we) will think of something from a new perspective.

Even if the STI FPR doesn't fix the misfire i'm looking forward to it helping with the low-rpm bogging/stumble/studder issue. My motor definitely has that going on.

I did move the ref line to the BPV line, and the nipple on the IM is capped off. I don't remember if I made the move before or after the rebuild, and this is a monster thread and at this point all duplicated questions will be excused. Sometimes asking the same question slightly differently gets people thinking differently, and maybe I (we) will think of something from a new perspective.

Even if the STI FPR doesn't fix the misfire i'm looking forward to it helping with the low-rpm bogging/stumble/studder issue. My motor definitely has that going on.

So my misfire isn't gone, and I don't even know if it was even temporarily gone or not.

How, you ask, do I not know something as simple as knowing if the misfire was gone or not?

During the few days that I thought the miss was gone, I noticed the car still sounded and felt like it was misfiring. I was happy to see "0" misfires in BtSsm so I just went with it like anyone enslaved by an attractive manual transmission turbo wagon should. This morning I decided that it was time to see what's really going on, so I reset the ECU and the misfires are back to being displayed like normal again. It was kinda fun while it lasted.

Why wasn't the ECU displaying the misfires (in any cylinder)?

Why did resetting the ECU "fix" the problem of not displaying misfires?

Where in the world is Carmen Sandiego?

This morning my fuel pressure (measured by a digital transducer, wired through the left TGV, displayed in BtSsm) was fluctuating at idle more than I've seen before (72-119 psi). I think that means either something is up with the sensor, or my pressure is wonky. A short log is attached to this post for your kind amusement. I'm logging more parameters than necessary but I don't care right now because seeing tons of confusing numbers in a spreadsheet makes me feel smart.

Good news: My reason to change the FPR is back.

Better news: I've been selling plasma twice a week and working a second job at night to afford more car parts. My oldest daughter (6 yo) told me last night that when she can drive she wants to get a wagon like mine. A tear formed in my eye and I said "NOOoooOOOOoOOOoo!", just kidding, my heart melted and I was reinvigorated to continue my fight against the evil misfire demons. I might start saving up for a new/used ECU because I haven't burnt any money over that area of the car yet.

This car will not beat me.

BtSsm_20180823_064629[1].csv