jayrex

I had the case upside down and was convinced it went in the 'top'.... would help if I put it in the real top. Thanks to ClimberD for pointing this out. Now I clearly see in the diagram that the ribs are a different size. Will post a pic when I get in in there.

I was excited to see some name brands on my frictions and steels: So I put the new frictions and steels in. For some reason I thought the last steel in the packs were some sort of special spacer, so I was basically short one steel for each pack. Note that if you use my buy list, one extra steel needed for the input, direct, and high/low rev sets. I just cleaned up the nicest one (the one in the bottom of each) and put it back together. Specs were a little too tight or RIGHT on the low end. I guess that's better than loose, but it has me a little worried. I'm thinking after a couple miles these will free up by a few thou and be sitting nicely on the low side.... or I'll burn em all up and be right back where I was. To measure you stick a feeler gauge in between the snap ring and the retainer plate(thicker steel). Not all the specs were in the FSM, so I ended up scavenging some specs from different threads here. The input clutch mainly. You may use my specs, but don't quote me on these, its not my fault if you break your stuff. You can keep reading and find out later if I broke mine! Reverse Brake: Spec: .028" - .043" Measured: .028" High, Low Rev: Spec: .070" - .087" Measured: .071" Direct: Spec: .024" -.039" Measured: .022" <----These are good per ClimberD - EDIT Input: Spec: .045" - .065" Measured: .035" <----These are good per ClimberD - EDIT So a little bit of a problem on the input. I'm inclined to leave it and 'wing it'. Its the pack that gets the most wear anyway. Here are a few pictures of the packs going back together. This is the pump, and input, with the sun gears: This is the Direct and High Low Rev nested together with... a shaft: This is where I'm stuck (reverse pack), trying to figure out how this leaf spring sits: It makes sense in the picture, but when you actually go to put it in.... you're like... what? but where do I...

Soaking frictions in trans fluid. They say 20min is fine, but I knew I wasn't going to get into it yesterday, so they've been soaking about 24hrs now.

New frictions, steels, and trans filter. Waiting on some gaskets to come in around mid-next week, but i can get started loading up the packs. EDIT: This trans filter was wrong, did not fit. I just reused the old one. It was pretty clean.

Thanks! More to come, stay tuned.

Okay I figured out how to swap these rings over... kinda feel dumb now, but it was REALLY hard to see.

Problems 31007AA411 GASKET & SEAL KIT-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION This is on backorder, and has an unknown release date. Two Subaru parts dealers said it could be months until (if even) its available. 31007AA410 is what matches my VIN number, but that one is discontinued. I can't get a confirmed answer from any of the part suppliers about 411 actually being the superseded part number. I don't even know if an overhaul kit would have these exact seals (for the shaft). I tried removing them from the old one... not happening. EDIT: I just bailed on the whole gasket kit, I'm going to reassemble with just the big case gaskets that I mentioned before.

Put in the TransGo VB mod. Thanks to ClimberD's walkthrough. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/install-transgo-5eat-hd2-shift-kit-detailed-walkthrough-179771.html Nothing worth noting. It took me about 2 hours start to finish. Disassemble, Modify, Clean, Resemble. Little technical, but pretty straight forward.

I just installed the RE5 Kit, same stuff, and $50 cheaper. Instructions are not for this VB though, so you will need to use this walkthrough.

Just ordered this: 31007AA411 GASKET & SEAL KIT-AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION $118.83+$20 shipping I think 31007AA410 is an old part number and has been superseded by the 411 p/n. The new intermediate shaft didn't come with square seal o-rings in the grooves. The old ones feel like hard plastic and I don't think I can transfer them over. I'm just hoping those seals are in the kit because it is not clear in the exploded diagrams which part that is. My only guess is that they are called ring-seals. I don't know if they are softer new. It will be nice to have some of the o-rings on had to swap out. I needed these larger gaskets in the kit anyway: GASKET-TRANSMISSION CASE,FRONT . Part Number:* 31339AA160*; 31339AA150 (I don't know why there are two part numbers) GASKET-TRANSMISSION CASE,REAR . Part Number:* 31337AA200 Left side is the new shaft, right side is the old shaft. I need to figure out what that tube is in the center and how to transfer it. EDIT: I took another good look at the new shaft and put some light down there. its just a hole about 4 inches deep, it has no passages. I am thinking I do not really need that center tube from the old shaft. I dry fitted the shaft from the tails section into both of these, and the fit was identical, kinda sloppy actually. That tube fits into the extension shaft to add inner alignment along with the outer, but the fit is the same, so its not doing anything. There doesn't seem be be any real function here. Someone please correct me if you have experience with this specific part. Note: I can't pull out the old tube without deforming it.

I've been meaning to write this up a little better because it really isn't that hard and I want to encourage you guys to dig in. The exploded view of the trans really made me want to puke before I actually started getting in there. I thought it would all just fall apart into chaos, but that's not the case - no pun intended. Not unless you go really deep into the tail section of the main housing. That is where you would get into the forward and low coast packs. Which I'm gambling on being good. There are some T45 bolts that need a long extension. I asked the question on page 82 of ClimberD's 5EAT Question Thread? You can check out what he said there. This is where I 'stopped'. You can see the reverse pack still in there. And that shaft is the broken intermediate shaft that has the center diff assembly gears on the other end. Once you get the front diff off (not too bad), you remove the pump cover bolts(dark in the img), and the rest stay in place. After that, with a few tugs it all comes apart like this: Clutch packs are inside those with snap rings that you only need a flat screw driver and maybe pliers to get hold of, easy. Snap ring pliers won't even help don't bother. The tail section is held on with these bolts: (Note: I print these images, tape them to cardboard and slam the bolts right through the correct location, it works better than drawing on cardboard) Once into the tail section, you are looking at this: Back of main trans housing - **Note close up pic of this later And the section you just pulled off - watch out for that big metal gasket ring in the upper right (dome cover section). I almost didn't notice it because it stuck to the housing. **Close up pic This is where the center diff is... where ClimberD's bushings go... where tears of sadness culminate and cascade over broken diff gears... okay that got dark. I don't think I would pull this whole thing out if you were just doing a diff bushing install. But if you have it on the bench, and stuffs broken, just yank that whole thing outta there - its tight. A snap ring gets you into the diff parts, there's quite a few little washers and things here, so make sure you're over the table and on some clean rags. I popped the new diff inserts in, put the washers on the end and put a zip tie through the pieces. Mine will be sitting for a while until I get the new shaft and I didn't want parts floating around all willy-nilly. The one thing that is REALLY annoying is all the trans fluid, there's always more in there. My work bench is some crappy laminate counter top that I can basically squeege puddles off the edge into an oil catch can. Get it all setup ahead of time so you can catch fluid in a shallow pan and drain it somehow without moving the trans (cuz its pretty heavy until its just the case). Thinking about it now, I should have cut the edges off one of those big black open oil pans, and put a valve or something in the corner/side, with a tube to drain nicely onto floor level. Put some 6" long 4x4's in the box and put the trans on those. Just an idea. Good luck getting it all back together, I don't know how that goes yet. EDIT: I eventually got it back together, keep reading!

From the oil on top it looks like you had a pretty bad leak on your power steering pump? That issue has been haunting me. On my 3rd pump now. That shaft seal just keeps leaking right out of the front.

Yeah, at first I didn't even realize that shaft was THE part, and THE reason for a diff upgrade. I thought it was all about crappy soft needle bearings breaking. At least I already have a solution. I am also curious about this because I actually bought the RE5R05A TransGo kit because it was $50 cheaper. From what I've read, the only thing different is the instructions? Also in his guide, I think ClimberD said the drilling steps were pointless. I was just going to use that 'schweet' walkthrough. Going to try and tackle that install this weekend.

I double checked the pinion gears, they are all flawless. Thanks for the heads up though, I dont think I gave them a close eye before - at the time I was just looking for huge chunks missing. I'm going to go with "ain't broke, dont fix it" on those =) Thinkin on the cryo.

I used a cheap car jack on the bell housing to split. Worked great. For those water jacket bolts I actually ground down the outside of a 1/2 drive 12pt with a dremel.

Purchased a bunch of steels and frictions from cobratransmission.com They are the first website I found that had online checkout and the 'front brake' parts listed. We'll see if my choice pans out. here's my cart for reference: For example, I was about to use these guys: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/5EAT.html but the choices started getting confusing and I didn't see a front brake listed. I even compared my parts to see if the front brake frictions matched any of the others... nope they are different. I was really torn about the steels. I think I could lightly sand to refresh them, but ended up just buying replacements for all but the front brake. I will be buying a few OEM gaskets later, these are thin stamped metal with crazy shaped holes all throughout. I probably could reuse mine, but they are cheap so why not. GASKET-TRANSMISSION CASE,FRONT . Part Number:* 31339AA160 GASKET-TRANSMISSION CASE,REAR . Part Number:* 31337AA200 My costs so far: $200 TransGo Shift Kit $250 HexMods Bullet Proof Bushings $200 Frictions and Steels $230 Broken Intermediate Shaft 33257AA060 (lots of diff part #'s for this) $70 Subaru HP Trans Fluid Total $950 (hopefully) Don't tell my wife unless you want to pay for the divorce.

Car was driven pretty good. I jammed around on it in manual mode constantly. No kid gloves. WOT in 5th seemed to start the dominoes falling after a JMP Turbo upgrade, 3 port BCS and an eTune. After that 4th and even sometimes 3rd would slip. You could feel it just 'let go' at full throttle (or 75%) this is all well after the gear had shifted, not during a shift. 1st and 2nd were perfectly fine. And everything seemed normal under regular DD type driving. I did a half trans fluid flush right when I got the car at 100k, it was stock, never modified before I touched it. I'm not really sure of the power levels, I'm guessing 275-280 hp based on the MAF numbers. Lol, You are the second person to ask about doing other 5eats. I'm just an adventurous noob. I don't have any warranties, and if something went wrong I'd have some seriously happy people on my hands. Just to make it worth my while I'd need to charge at least 65% of what a professional shop charges. Like $1000 - $2000, and you could do it with your time and probably $300-500 depending on if you have broken things and want those upgraded diff bushings from HexMods (you do ) But, up to this point it has really not been THAT difficult. No special tools really. Once the front diff is off, it all comes apart like one of those russian doll sets. All the snap rings just pop right out with a flat screw driver. Keep an eye on my build thread and I'll post some part numbers and any other problems I run into. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ld-251969.html

I finally opened up all the clutch packs (really not that hard - it all comes out in tidy little chunks). Front Brake - Pretty good condition compared to some of the others, but you can see a little burning around the centers. Input Clutch - Definitely the source of the majority of my problems. This one is by far the worst. It doesn't even have any 'tread' left on it. The surface was gritty and crumbling. I could probably replace just this pack and call the whole job done. High/Low/(Rev?) - This one is not looking too good either, almost black. Many of the steels had these black marks on them, but they are almost perfectly smooth. Direct Clutch - also mostly black. The one friction on the end still has a little red left in it. I doubt that one was pulling its weight Reverse - these should be fine, and don't need replacing. Transfer clutches (in the rear extension) - no pics, but they looked good like the reverse clutches. So the last 2 packs(Forward and Low Coast) seem much more 'burried'. They are in the back of the main trans housing. and I'm hoping I don't need to get in there, even for inspection. I think that is where all the bits start falling out.

I finally opened up all the clutch packs (really not that hard - it all comes out in tidy little chunks). Front Brake - Pretty good condition compared to some of the others, but you can see a little burning around the centers. Input Clutch - Definitely the source of the majority of my problems. This one is by far the worst. It doesn't even have any 'tread' left on it. The surface was gritty and crumbling. I could probably replace just this pack and call the whole job done. High/Low/(Rev?) - This one is not looking too good either, almost black. Many of the steels had these black marks on them, but they are almost perfectly smooth. Direct Clutch - also mostly black. The one friction on the end(right side of pic) still has a little red left in it. I doubt that one was pulling its weight Reverse - As Climber said, they are just find and don't need replacing. Transfer clutches (in the rear extension) - no pics, but they looked good like the reverse clutches. So the last 2 packs(Forward and Low Coast) seem much more 'burried'. They are in the back of the main trans housing. and I'm hoping I don't need to get in there, even for inspection. I think that is where all the bits start falling out. So Climber, do you think I can gamble on the Forward pack as good? -based on what I have found so far? Should I replace those steels?

I always thought the upgraded bushings were just to prevent them from exploding, but what you are saying makes perfect sense.

Just a side note: I did not expected to find anything like this when I opened it all up. The whole assembly still worked and rotated pretty smooth. I could maybe see it causing a 'hum', but I didn't really hear anything while driving. The chips were very clean, they had no scratches on them, so they were not bouncing around in there at all. So I purchased a new shaft for $215. p/n 33257AA060 I would like to find the cause, so I can feel confident that it won't happen again. Its three teeth on the gear, and spaced evenly around, although this gear is nested in between 4 others, not three. Something definitive must have caused the extra stress. The only clue is that it broke on the top edge, which makes me think something was not aligned properly, shifted out of position. I found this adjustment, but I'm not even sure it relates. #9(Intermediate shaft) is the shaft in question, and the gear on it is surrounded by four #10's (even though the picture only shows 1) This shaft doesn't even have a bearing on it, so I'm thinking this inspection might be more for the positioning of the rear drive shaft?

BIG PROBLEM! Broken teeth in rear differential. Center gear on rear drive shaft. I was putting in the rear diff inserts, and found a broken gear piece. Went searching for the damage.

5EAT Rebuild thread started. Lots of pics. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html While installing the diff bushings I found a broken gear on the intermediate shaft. I could use some help sourcing a used replacement. Looks like they are $290 from Subaru new. I did find out it is the same shaft for pretty much every 5AT trans subaru makes. EDIT: Nevermind, found it here for $215. Credit to another thread. Apparently I'm not the first to have this issue. https://subaruonlineparts.com/oemparts/33257AA060 Wish I could find a used one for $50 thou.

Still a little more to go, like getting into the sun gear behind the pump there. That one doesn't just slide out like the rest. Getting to this point has been pretty easy so far. No explosion of tiny parts or anything yet. The frictions are all pretty black, the steels look pretty good aside from the weird black marks. I can't even feel those at all, they are perfectly smooth. I might just carefully sand the frictions by taping down some light sandpaper onto a flat surface, not sure yet.

After some mild mods to my '05 LGT Wagon, the trans started to slip in 5th, 4th and sometimes even 3rd when I really get on the throttle.(~70%+) This build log will be for the 5EAT. Check out the engine rebuild progress in my other thread:Engine Rebuild Thread I will be installing: ClimberD@HexMods Bullet Proof Diff Bushings ($250)LINK to Thread TransGo Shift Kit ($225) Replacing frictions, steels(maybe), and necessary seals ($200-$800) Also purchased 12 Quart Pack Automatic Transmission Subaru ATF TYPE-HP ($65 shipped from ebay) FYI - This comes in one giant jug, not 12 separate quarts as pictured in the ebay listing. EDIT - Its not one giant jug, that was just an illusion, its 12 bottles. lol This video is boring and not really worth clicking on. Its just a quick walk around of the transmission before disassembly. Just sticking it here as reference for anyone that might need it: Video for removing the valve body: Get yourself a set of vacation pics for this one too, pretty good diagrams in there for this one First Issue (pics below): I purchased a Torx E20 for the three bottom bolts holding the front diff onto the trans. It has a weird (but standard) bevel on the outer rim. This made it barely engage the nut, so it rounded off the top edge of the bolt. I went to three stores trying to find a different E20 Torx, but no luck. So I needed to make modify the one I had. It works great though. I didn't look for it, but alternately you could try to fine a Torx Wrench instead of the socket. You may not need to remove the valve body first if you get the wrench. The socket cut very easily with a dremel, even though it is an impact rated socket.