jayrex

Took a quick look at RomRaider last night. Looks like a more powerful tool than FreeSSM. I think I always ignored it because I was afraid I'd regret spending the money on an AP. lol. New VB is here - thanks whitrzac! I'll be tinkering with that soon. Going to try and get some before and after logs using RomRaider. Even if the VB swap doesn't solve my problem, at least I can get some data comparing Modified VB vs Stock VB. Really hoping this solves the problem, otherwise I have some serious work ahead of me... and more $$$ to spend. =/

Good to know! I was thinking a log would be more useful than just max/min. Graphical? Or would I need to graph it independently? I need to figure this out before pulling the trans again - pending the VB swap not fixing the issue. Will be working on that this weekend.

I just found out you can use the FreeSSM tool to monitor realtime TCU values. Shows max/min, and current value. I drove around until I pulled a code (just the P1799 - Interlock this time). Still cannot go past 3rd. I'm not 100% sure what I'm looking for, but it looks like all of my solenoids are working. There were no 0's for any of the max values. I'll try to post the screenshots from FreeSSM, those are stuck on the laptop for now.

Reset codes again. About a 10 minute drive with no codes thrown, but the problems are all the same... Bought whitrzac's VB, I'll see how that goes.

I guess I can say YES to step 2. This is really starting to look like an electrical problem. Those last set of codes are most of the clutch solenoids not firing. EDIT: You are probably wondering why I am looking at code P0736, when I have code P0734. The FSM points you to P0736 for any of the similar codes. Codes P0731, P0732, P0733, P0734, P0735 all use the same diagnostic troubleshooting listed under the P0736.

New codes. I don't know if more codes are a good thing or bad at this point. P0756 P0761 P0766 Showed up within 1 min of starting the car, was just moving up my car ramps to take some trans fluid out. Came on before I started moving up the ramp.

The trans might have a little too much fluid actually, need to double check it and adjust. I don't think its a fail safe issue, just because its acting up without any codes being thrown. I think I have an actual mechanical problem. I am interested in your VB, I could always resell it if its not the issue. I can send a prepaid shipping label. Lets chat details over PM. Found a post with the exact same problem. They get very technical in this thread, interesting reading. Makes me think my Input clutch is not activating, not recieving pressure. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/65386-5eat-4-5th-gear-dont-work.html

Did another reset. Short drive. More definitive results. Will not shift out of 3rd. 4th and 5th are just 3rd gear, but they seem to slip. 3rd gear and lower does not slip. The car will down shift to 2nd and then to 1st. no codes, but im sure if I drove it more, the code would show. I guess I should start troubleshooting with a valvebody replacement. This is turning into quite a mess. =(

Reset and P0734 came back. P1799 did not... yet.

Okay, things are looking better, but not out of the woods yet. PRND indicator lights work as they should. Sport mode works - P1817 code is gone. Trans temp code is gone - P0712 Accessport is showing Gear Position changing, but I'm not convinced all of my clutch packs are engaging as they should. Might just be because a code was thrown and its in limp mode? New codes YAY! P0734 - 4th Gear Incorrect Ratio Searching shows this could be related to low trans fluid, and I JUST filled it and went for a drive. P1799 - Interlock Not a lot of info out there on this. Fishbone posted about this years ago, but I don't think it really applies because I never had the code before, so a TCU reflash is probably not necessary. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1826932&postcount=6 Going to reset and see what happens.

I bit the bullet and opened up the pan. Smoking gun staring right in my face. Putting it back together in a bit. I'm hopeful this is 100% of my problems. I'm removing the resistor 'hack' too. I was reading up on the manual. Actual trans fluid temp is very important to the TCU... go figure.

Looks like all the trouble shooting is done in the shift select lever, not the valve body connections. I think I'm going to procrastinate on inspecting the valve body, and start digging into the center console.

Can confirm. Removed the clock spring (aka roll connector) completely and reassembled the steering wheel. No change. The code is thrown as soon as I touch sport mode. "gear position" on the AP is showing 0, regardless of gear. Even before the code is thrown, its shifting bad. If you can even call it shifting, very unpredictable 'movements' happening.

tore apart my clock spring. The ribbon cable was def ripped from the connectors. Theres actually 2 ribbon cables in there, one was still attached, which is why the horn still worked. Hoping the cable was sending some weird signals to the trans during turning, causing the code.

I did not break that off, turned it 90 deg, as per FSM. My shifter arm puck thingy was lined up, used the IPT video to reinstall valve body. Might need to go in there and look to see if anything is wonky in there. Feels like this trans is dying to be drained again.

Very cool, thanks ClimberD. My 'hack' is just a resistor spliced onto the wiring harness, I did not go into the pan to implement the fix. Easily removed, as I did not cut any wires. I will look into a permanent solution once I figure out this P1817 code. Could this be caused by a broken clock spring? I am almost positive I damaged it (used one will arrive early next week). I didn't touch the steering wheel buttons, just the manual mode on the shifter. Then this error comes up with sport mode blinking. Not sure if its angry because it doesn't see something coming from the steering wheel. Also noticed something new yesterday. (could have been happening all along) The PRND indicator light on the gauge cluster does not move, it just stays in Park. Is this indicative of anything specific?

My resistor hack worked. That problem is out of the way for now. Problems continue though (these are not new issues due to my hack) P1817 SPORT MODE SWITCH CIRCUIT (MANUAL SWITCH) This code is putting everything in limp mode. Which makes all kinds of shifting issues. The air bag light is on too, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the steering wheel. I may have spun it around too much (had my steering rack out). Not sure if this might have something to do with the sport buttons too. I can hear something lightly scraping inside the steering wheel when I move it. I opened the steering column cover, but I haven't found anything yet. This is turning into a real PITA. EDIT: Killed my clock spring. Haven't actually seen it yet, but based on some internetting, I probably ripped that bad boy right out. Hopefully a replacement will fix both issues.

All connectors checked. Probed some wires with my multi-meter per FSM. Was supposed to get a resistance of 500 to 1500 ohms across some pins. Got 0. So that means I need to drain the trans and get at the valve body for more checking. I don't even know if I'll see anything when I get in there. Not fun. Wondering how much damage I'd do if I spoofed the resistance in the normal range, say 1000 ohms. I have a trans temp gauge installed anyway. Probably a bad idea, but so is a new valve body. Can't buy valve body 'components'.

Finally got it running today. Pulled some trans codes. P0700 - I think this is the generic "there is a trans code" code that is sent to/by the ECM caused by this code: P0712 - "Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input" Wondering if this could be caused by air pockets, I idled the car for 10 mins and then went for a 5 min drive this popped on around then. Need to call it a night, so I'll dig into it a bit more tomorrow. I have the TCU reset cable/software.

Wow is that thing tough to get back into the air and bolted up without a transmission jack. Its a lot easier to take out with gravity on your side. Had help from a random Subie fan who just did a 6 speed swap. He knew what we were up against. I didn't know it was going to be quite that difficult. Definitely a two person job. Many thanks to Chris

Trans is basically done, just need to bolt up some of the little brackets for the wiring. I need to hit up my reference pics to get those settled properly. Somehow I ordered the wrong rear trans case seal. I think it was miscommunication over the phone with my local Subaru parts place. 31496AA000 GSKT-TRANS CASE, IMD <--should be 'REAR' I didn't even put this in because I didn't want to take it apart. So the part number I mentioned earlier is the one you need. I ended up cleaning my old one and using a bit of ultra grey on it. Rather than wait a week for a new one. It was in okay shape anyway. The front gasket is the one I really needed anyway. It was warped and kinked like crazy. I don't even know how it could get like that while sandwiched between metal. The rear section was a little tricky to get back together. There is a bearing on the center diff shaft that is slightly press fit when you put it back into the main case. In the picture below you can see the center diff already in the case (middle of picture - bottom half is rear housing) I noticed the gears were not aligning the first time I put it in; only half engaged. Looked like this... not good. I tapped lightly on the edge of clutch pack housing on the center diff to seat it. Its all I could do to get it in there. Looked like this when seated. ; slightly 'past' the mating gear. That mating gear had a bit of movement, and I think it will align perfectly once the pump goes in. I was poking at it a bit, and convinced myself this was the case. Side view for reference, fully seated. I kept trying to put the extension housing on with the rear shaft assembly loaded into the housing. Like this: That wasn't working. I ended up pulling the assembly out of the tail housing, mounting that, and then tapped the housing on - because there is another one of those (lightly) press fit bearings in the tail section. (big bearing in the pic) So I got it setup like this and put the housing on over top. Okay onto the front section. This is how it looks with the rear done: The direct and high-low-rev nested first, and then put in. Lots of twisting here, second reference pic shows how far it went in: New front gasket on the pump (with the input clutch attached): Got a little stuck here. It took an uncomfortable amount of hammering to get this to mate flush. I did not want to pull it in with the bolts as I actually have had 2 strip out while disassembling. Something to do with the aluminum corroding. The inner alum threads were stuck to the bolt when I pulled it out. I just chased the hole with a tap (M10 x 1.25) and added some ultra grey to the threads. The brain is in! Pan is on and ready to rock... mostly. Broke a pan bolt - hence the vicegrip holding the pan tight in that spot while the ultra grey works. Going to drill it out later, its a thru bolt so no metal bits will get into the pan. DONE and DONE! Not that hard, you can do et! Since I changed so much stuff at once, I can't image this thing is going to work on first start, but one can hope! But if it does, I'll have a 'built' 5EAT. Once I get her moving, I will update with any good or bad news. I'd like to get a video of it shifting for you guys too. Thanks for reading.

Thanks, forgot to update that. ... the level of customer service that comes with your bushings. Working on getting the longblock together now, but Im about to get this trans bolted back together very soon. Picked up the front and rear gaskets yesterday.

Leaf spring just slips right in there after the packs and before the retainer ring/snap ring.

Dayum, you so fancy. Seriously thou, that's going to be awesome. Shoot us some pics when you get into that project.

A spare would be quite the luxury. I would really recommend those upgraded bushings. They just seem right after you install them. This has all been pretty easy so far, but every once in a while I am not sure if I flipped a ring around or not. So be extra aware of orientation and maybe take a picture every time you touch something just in case. This clip has been the only confusing part so far. And its only because it popped out during disassembly and I didnt see where it came from. Thats my story and I'm stickin to it.