JF1GG29

Good choice, but is it offered in a manual? I'm hoping ford would put RS technology in a larger, more luxurious vehicle. Also, like the Chevy SS

Let's face it, if the Levorg does come over, it's probably not going to be packing a manual transmission.

The FZ09/XSR900 is on the short list. I'm also considering a streetfightering a crossplane R1.

I used to want a Speed Triple, but it's very similar to the Z1000 (130hp, almost 500 lbs.) I guess I will still consider them. They're not too popular nowadays with the new supernakeds and naked middleweights, so the price is right.

I would consider Italian metal, but I beat my bikes to death and I'm not sure I want to take the loss in value. Also, I commute nearly every day on it, so it needs to be rock solid.

So my Z1000 was totaled the other day -- someone backed up over it, it's totally smashed: forks, fairings, gas tank, bars, exhaust.

Any ideas on a replacement? Would like to keep it sporty but lose some weight (the Z is a pig.) Something 120+hp, less than 500 lbs, no full-on sportbikes, has to sound great.

Crotch-rocketed my way through the earlier years, and having taught the MSF Basic and Advanced Rider for a numer of years and seen the accident pics, I'm not inclined to strap one of those on any time soon. They're like a lethal drug and as someone mentioned, that rider-group gets amped-up pretty regularly on it.

 

At this stage, I'm really only interested in 2-up touring .

Taught MSF a few years, all the instructors were closet squids. I used to be a calm-ish rider, but since the MSF gig, I've gotten a literbike, I ride way faster, get less tickets and more chicks.

Talked to a guy at the subaru dealership and he did say the Levorg wagon is coming to the states. When I don't know.

 

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Fingers crossed for a 6mt.

You guys are going to extreme lengths here.

Have the dealer do the airbag replacement and ask them nicely to be careful in reassembling the dash. When you go pick up your car, press on every dash panel and trim piece (including lower kick panels) open the glove box and have a look inside, and do a quick drive around the block. If anything is amiss, have them fix it.

This is far better option than having a faulty airbag disfigure your passenger in the event of an accident, or not having an airbag.

I honestly didn't notice at first because my gf was in the passenger seat and the glovebox was closed. When I opened the glovebox to put my things back into it, the box fell open because the string wasn't attached, and I noticed more things from there.

I'm going to ask them to replace every single fastener when they replace the dash and if don't I'm going to raise hell. I'm already displeased with the sales side of that dealer. If it weren't for the parts counter guys, I would've written them off a long time ago.

How did they do a garbage job?

Missing plastic pop fasteners, guides for glovebox half put in, the motion control string on the glove box not attached, lower driver's side dash is loose because they lost those small white plastic clips on the inside, cut zip ties everywhere, dash squeaks now.

It was a shit show.

I heard rumors the RS drive train will last the length of the warranty then basically blow up.

I've read that they had this problem in development -- they were grenading differentials and snapping driveshafts. I'm sure they've resolved it before the car hit manufacturing, but I also think that engineers/manufacturers vastly underestimate the abuse their customers expect their cars to hold up to.

If we're dreaming, I'd like a Levorg 2.0T w/ a 6MT.

If we're not dreaming, I'm not sure. All I really want is a reasonably quick awd, mt wagon.

The ducts would have saved the wheel bearings without a doubt. They probably would have saved my brake fluid in the above encounter. I'll be keeping them in the racecar and likely re-jiggering them to be better placed than currently are (Sgt.Gator says they interfere with turning the wheels)

I don't think I'll be using 40tw tires for the foreseeable future -- if it comes to that, it certainly will not be on the Legacy. DTC70s are more than enough for the street tires that I run, so in that sense, it doesn't seem like I'll ever be in the situation where I'll need ducting aside from the wheel bearing issue.

Curious though, in the LGT, with the DTC70s and ~200tw tires, did you ever have heat issues with the OE caliper slides & grease? Do you even use the OE calipers?

 

ducts are cheap insurance and well worth the money if you have any interest in track days. We (shop & I) figured they were worth about 800 degrees of cooling over none, based on their years of racing production cars.

I never wanted to track the Legacy, but I unfortunately blew my WRX motor at Watkins Glen two weekends ago. The spec being a significantly heavier car than the WRX (almost 500 lbs heavier) has me thinking what needs to be done to preserve the longevity of the car. What you describe confirms my suspicions that the Legacy is underbraked for its weight.

Did you notice a significant difference in bearing and/brake pad life after installing ducts?

Thanks for the feedback -- I think I'm going to try harder to keep the Legacy off the track and get the WRX motor replaced.

if you want real stopping power on track, get front ducts.

What did front ducts do for you? I was under the impression that for these cars, it's more to get more life out of your wheel bearings and delaying brake fade.

I picked up a hub assembly to potentially fit up a ducting system, but I wonder if I'm wasting my time.

Unless you're rich, use Centric premium blanks - they are more than up to the job and they are cheap. Rotors are a frequent consumable for trackdays -- it's better to have spares instead of one set of bling rotors.

If you're rich, use a 2pc. floating rotor with aluminum hats.

For a trackday, I'd rather spend $400 on a brake service with trackday pads, new rotors, and new fluid than spending $1200+ for fixed calipers and fancy rotors. Pads and fluid are where it's at.

On the street, do whatever makes you happy.

RAXLES sells an OEM axle, I don't know what he does with the cores, likely is rebuilding them and selling under another name, maybe?

afaik, Raxles reuses the axle but puts on new joints. Other places refurbish the joints.

Better reliability and pedal feel have been cited as reasons as well, so it's more than just bling. If you already have wheels that fit and need to replace calipers anyway, I see no reason to not go this route.

The cost isn't much different from replacing with rebuilt sliding calipers from rockauto.com (aside from the returned core cost). It's very viable if you have wheels that are compatible.

Finally, improved pedal feel and 'resolution' was a great bonus for a street car. It made the car more enjoyable to drive and to me, that's a pretty big deal.

I didn't do this mod, but I did a 4-pot conversion on the WRX and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.