JF1GG29

Added some 134a sauce to #410. 14 y/o needed a transfusion. Chillier now.

I think I need to do this, how do you know how much to add?

I'm not interested into getting into an online shouting match on Covid-19. Because I really doubt that I'm going to change your mind and vice versa.

But I do want to mention that I'm finding it hard to have empathy for these places that are getting thousands of new cases a day.

I live in NYC and people and businesses sacrificed a LOT to get to where we are today. Why did they do that? Because people were literally dying by the truckload. So many people were dying so fast that there was no place to put them. So they started putting them in refrigerated trucks and staging them in public parks while waiting for cremation. Funeral homes were going 24/7. It was horrifying.

Ambulances were going 24/7. My friend lost six of his friends in March. One of my best friend's wife is an ER nurse. Imagine what it feels like for your wife to do 12-hr shifts with little PPE available. Why does she have to put her life on the every single day for people who can't be bothered to care?

And yes, less people are dying right now because we understand a little more on how to treat it. Also, a higher percentage of people who have it right now are younger. Don't be fooled into thinking that it's not going to spread to older demographics.

I thought it would be like a flu at first, too. It's nothing like a flu and I'm f-cking sick and tired of people saying that. The seasonal flu doesn't overwhelm hospitals.

If you think it's fake and don't want to wear a mask, fine, I don't care what you do. Just stay the hell away from me and don't expect business owners to put their workers at higher risk for serving or dealing with you.

No one wants to say "I told you so" in this context.

Rotella t6 has been running fantastic in a 148k

+1 on Rotella T6. I clicked into 140k last month. OE turbo.

I also love that I can use it in all my vehicles and can stretch an oil change if I need to. Not to mention, it's fairly cheap and widely available.

The 5th gen hasn't won over many people, be careful what you ask for. Maybe word it specifically, like " maybe if Subaru offered a manual in the Legacy XT that would hold up to power and abuse, like an STI gearbox", Lol.

I don't know how many times I've bleated this specific line:

I'd love a USDM Levorg Spec.B w/ the STi 6MT.

Now that you've mentioned it, I would also settle for a top trim Outback XT with the STI 6MT.

The front left is pushing out way more dust and is a bit locked up. If I was to hit the brakes hard it would lock first before the rest. Basically its not safe in my opinion.

Fastest thing would be to replace the caliper with a remanufactured one. They're usually ok, but I've had one last less than two NE winters, an exception rather than the rule.

taking high performance driving classes and learning to brake correctly can have a large impact on your braking "power" too.

+1. Learning to actually 'brake hard' is the skill that's going to save your life.

Take the $600 you would've spent on a pair of front brembos and do two days of HPDE (high performance driving education) w/ an instructor instead.

Otherwise, I really like Akebono ProACT pads -- totally streetable, will hold up to some novice trackdays. This should be like $50. I also really like Carbotech XP8s -- still streetable, but they dust like crazy. They grab assertively on the street but shine at the higher temps you might see on the track. I forgot what I paid for these, maybe around $200 a set.

Looks like your ECU is perceiving reasonable knock at low RPM and low/moderate load. Potentially tune-related, potentially loose heatshields, brackets, or other false-knock-inducing rattles, some combination of that, etc. Try watching your feedback knock and fine-learn knock in real-time while you're driving and see if it consistently triggers at a specific condition (tip-in, tip-out, when you hit bumps while you're on throttle, at a certain RPM and throttle input consistently, etc.). It thinks it's knock free at the higher loads (positive numbers in green), and if those green numbers get large enough in enough cells, then the IAM will increase and by another chunk and the process repeats. However, since your IAM is at 0.6875, I suspect it started at 0.5 after the ECU reset, went up to 0.75 since it didn't see enough knock, then saw enough knock at that IAM of to drop down to 0.6875.

 

If that was a bunch of mumbo-jumbo, read up the "subaru knock control strategy explained" topics on the RomRaider forums to really understand what your ECU is doing. Knowing how that works will really help you diagnose things like if your car is really knocking and you have tune or mechanica issues, or if it's just a stray false knock caused by loose metal rattles, faulty knock sensor.

This is really great info, going to read up on that. Hopefully I can get this car into a happy place sooner rather than later. Thank you!

I changed out my MAF about two weeks ago, trying to chase down an apparent boost/vacuum leak. Been driving it and pulled LVs from btssm today.

I suppose it was the MAF, after all. As a reminder, I had it changed about four years ago.

LV is looking way better, but I'm getting a lot of timing changes in the load table. Is this normal? IAM is still down at 0.688.

The nature of wheel bearing life means that it's always going to be a crapshoot, at some level. If you go with some trusted brands, you should generally be fine.

Obviously go OEM if you don't mind paying the money, but given that the OEM bearings aren't exactly taking anyone to 200k miles, there might not be a reason to pay a premium for them. NTN is the OE supplier for a lot of bearings on the car, so if you can find those, go for it. Timken, SKF, NSK should all be fine. If given a choice for 'premium' bearings, go for it.

Finally got my jdm headlights wired in. Been sitting on these for years...

I second the Rear Sway Bar. It just helps the car feel so much more level while turning, which is a big confidence booster.

I would start there and run it for a while as you consider other options.

Here's how mine looks with ¾" spacers. Tein H-tecs springs, and KYB excel G struts that are 3 years old now!

 

Scotty

Did raising the rear 3/4" affect your rear camber much?

Seems a little high, at least by FSM spec. ... A high airflow reading will lead to negative fuel trims at idle.

I did a little more looking around. FSM wants your MAF reading at idle, with no a/c or accessories on, to be between 2.0 and 5.0 g/s. I was poking around on some old threads and realized I had been cleaning my MAF wrong. Turns out the thing I was cleaning was the temperature sensor part of the MAF sensor assembly.

I cleaned it, properly this time, and I'm now getting MAF at idle to be right around 3.5 g/s -- smack in the middle of range. Reset the ECU and went for a drive and fuel trims are looking a bit better:

Seems a little high, at least by FSM spec. I assume since all you have is a cat-back there's not been any tweaks made to your MAF scaling in your tune. A high airflow reading will lead to negative fuel trims at idle.

I don't have a tune, actually. I wanted to get one in 2016, but then I saw that I have some air/fuel problems I need to sort out, haha. Let me swap out the MAF this weekend and see if that helps anything.

Adding a means of logging fuel pressure was one of the best things I did when doing initial troubleshooting after my build. I assume you still have TGVs on your car? If so, you'll have to get some separate means of logging fuel pressure data, or use a mechanical gauge. I used to use a handheld oscilloscope to watch fuel pressure traces from an electronic sensor. Hokey, but it works.

I'll have to figure out the fuel pressure thing, though I have a few things I should try before I hit that part of the troubleshooting.

I still have TGVs -- the engine and all breathing on the car is completely stock with the exception of a catback exhaust and a boost gauge.

Speaking of boost gauge, I noticed something else today: off-throttle on the morning commute, the gauge was reading 16 in Hg vacuum. When I first start the car, I usually see something like 21-22 in Hg.

Is it possible that I've got a leak that only appears when the car is hot? Or could it be indicative of something else? Or is that normal?

Yeah you're right, I must have had a brain fart when I looked at your last LV. Do you have a means to log/monitor fuel pressure? If not, it's easy enough to splice in a tee w/ a 1/8" NPT port into the fuel send line to take a look. MAF scaling and front O2 are also potential culprits.

 

What's your idle MAF reading in BTSSM?

Thanks for the ideas and helping me work through this. Bulletproofed the TMIC yesterday, and visually checked all vac/boost lines. They all seemed secure.

I pulled the MAF and cleaned it, cleaned the contacts, and looked for loose wires. It all seemed ok, but I ordered a replacement MAF anyway. I replaced the O2 sensor to resolve a P0171 (Bank 1 lean) in 2016 to no effect, but will consider it after I get the MAF replaced. I now see that I also replaced the MAF in 2016, and that did resolve my P0171.

I think my MAF idle reading is around 4.0-ish g/s, but let me double check later.

Don't have a way to look at or log fuel pressure, but I suppose that's next.

EDIT: MAF @ idle in btssm is 3.97 to 4.08 g/s.

I'd start the typical diagnostics procedure, from lowest to highest hanging fruit. Check for air leaks, stuff rattling, then move on from there. If there were an air leak, I'd expect it to be post turbo based on those trims, assuming you see boost in ranges C and D

I pulled the I/C, which looked fine and I'm going to bulletproof it. Later today I'll check out all the vac lines and see if I can clean the MAF and double check the wiring harness.

Here's the latest lv from btssm, though I noticed IAM is down to 0.313 this morning:

Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm pretty new to looking at these logs: seems like I'm rich at idle and lean up high. Should I be checking out my fuel pressure regulator?

Car is stock aside from a Borla catback.

After:

I was thinking of doing this, but now I'm wondering if I should go higher than 1/2". It definitely seems to have leveled out the body.

I'd start the typical diagnostics procedure, from lowest to highest hanging fruit. Check for air leaks, stuff rattling, then move on from there. If there were an air leak, I'd expect it to be post turbo based on those trims, assuming you see boost in ranges C and D

Thanks for the tip.

Checked around yesterday and didn't really see anything, going to have a closer look at and around the intercooler.

Noticed a loss of power and not hitting target boost. Plugged in btssm and saw that my IAM is set to 0 and pulled an LV today:

Anyone have an idea of where I should start investigating?