jackal8788

An interesting update, friends: When the crank pulley loosened up, I inspected the timing belt pulley as well and found it to be damaged around the keyway. There was also some minor damage to the timing belt so I replaced the timing belt pulley and timing belt. When I started the car, I left the housing off and noticed the belt seemed a little sloppy so I replaced the tensioner as well....and WOW, did the power come back on! First, the quantifiable objeective characteristics: My vacuum at idle was previously around 15" Hg. and is now at just a shade over 20" Hg. The idle itself is smoother (though I didn't notice it was rough before until having this to compare) and the car no longer backfires as it occasionally used to do when shifting between higher-throttle acceleration. Now, the subjective characteristics: The car pulls hard. Real hard. I'm extremely glad to have found this as I now fully believe things are 100% (less my new turbo and header being installed) but I'm still not entirely sure what I did that made the improvement. I don't think the belt slipped a groove but I'm not positive. It was stretched and tension was not good. Anyone have any thoughts? Would 1 or 2 slipped teeth be subtle enough to let the car still run reasonably well? Also, for those who are wondering, the header is complete and will be getting x-rayed for weld inspection, then ceramic coated so I should see it around 3/14.

I don't think so. I think the root, root cause was a small boost leak that turned into a bigger boost leak that was partially exacerbated by TGVs that didn't want to open fully which morphed into a damaged compressor housing O-ring (what am I forgetting here) which led to me eventually switching out the turbo which led to chronic alcoholism..... Honestly, I do they they were unrelated and I am partially wondering if during the pulley install they used the factory-recommended torque (I can't remember but I thought it was maybe 35 ft-lbs) instead of the 95 ft-lbs specified by Infamous.

Guys, I feel bad that I haven't been able to keep you all entertained with the regularly scheduled programming, so in an act of sympathy to the loyal fans, The Panda performed another neat little trick: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/crank-pulley-failure-new-pulley-wanted-250240.html And you thought that the only way I could entertain was to provide random, disjoint, and inexplicable events that defied all automotive logic and experience? Oh no!! The producers like to have a little variety so this was one that took less than 10 minutes to diagnose. Stay tuned....

On my way home from work last night I pulled up alongside another 5th gen SWP (2.5i) that was debadged, lowered, tinted, and had aftermarket wheels on it. The tint was so dark I couldn't see inside but within a few seconds the window was down and there were three guys in their early twenties all grinning and thumbs-up. They asked what I'd done to it and I told them to check out 'legacygt.com' and look for my name. Maybe we'll have a new Panda joining the club

Problem solved:

It must be the entire passage as I'm not sure how they would be able to drill it such that it only necked down at the end unless the drill was from the head-side of the bolt. Luckily, I have a rather large machine shop about 50 feet from my office and there are a lathe and a reamer that don't appear to be working too hard right now.....

Thanks fahr_side. Any recommendations on the size? I don't want to weaken the bolt itself by oversizing and I wasn't sure if there were any concerns with supplying too much oil (seal failure, etc.)?

I actually checked with a pin gauge and the center hole which runs through the axis of the bolt is actually 1.5mm.

So my new turbo CHRA is tapped for an M12x1.25 banjo bolt. I purchased the bolt and banjo fitting shown below and I see this bolt has a 1.5mm axial passage. Do I need to enlarge this? It seems a little on the small side but I don't know what size the stock M10 bolt's passage is. I don't want to mess with it if there's no reason to, but I certainly want to make sure I don't have oil starvation issues. Thoughts?

Here's my stock cover with the area cut out to accommodate the charge pipe and BPV:

^True

I keep thinking about my little 'hiccup' situation here and one thing is puzzling me. I get that a disruption in fuel delivery could cause a little hitching but would it necessarily cause my boost to drop instantly? Part of me is picturing the piston of the BPV in a not totally stable state since it just rapidly went from boost to vacuum to boost again. If it was shuttling or still reaching a stable closed state, boost could take a momentary dip as well yes? Could be totally off here too so call me to the carpet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From your video, it really wasn't too bad at all. That Shelby on the other hand....

Sorry jojorios, I missed this yesterday. From what fahr_side said, you shouldn't get leakage with your bracket but it may loosen enough once it heats up to rattle a bit. The thing is that once it cools back down, it will essentially be tight again. You probably won't even notice if it did rattle a bit - after all, these are Subarus

Ditto. I don't expect it to be the best in terms of efficiency (I've seen the previous version and the runner merge really doesn't look good) but for what I need, I think it will work just fine. I am also having it ceramic coated so it will take slightly longer but at least it should be reasonably durable. Hope to have pics within 2 weeks.

That's correct. There will be a dump tube welded in where the runners merge at the collector (just before the 3-bolt turbo inlet). The WG will reside on the end of the dump tube. In this way, any exhaust gas that enters the turbine housing is 'appropriate' since the WG will have metered out any excess.

Indeed I did. Unfortunately, there have been too many mishaps and hiccups (no Subara Stutter pun intended) and I am in extra-critical mode to ensure everything goes right this time. Just ask fahr_side....

^ Well-deserved S2!

Tack welding complete. Seems solid enough so I hope the heat doesn't have any impact on it.

I know - I think you bought it from me right (back when I started to gear up for EWG the first time)?

Agreed. I was actually looking at the Grimmspeed bracket but I wanted to get more input on it before going forward. fahr_side noted that they see the brackets loosen up due to thermal expansion and while it may not necessarily cause a leak, it rattles and makes noise.

I just got off the phone with TiAL and they confirmed that the ~21 PSI cracking pressure I saw in my static test of the wastegate was correct and that with the added backpressure of the exhaust on the face of the valve, it should be very close to 14.5 PSI. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For the time being, I will not be plumbing back into the downpipe. We'll let it dump to atmosphere and see how loud it really is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I want to weld my internal wastegate door/flapper closed so no exhaust leaks by the turbine. The new EWG is going to be located at the collector of the header just before the entrance into the turbo hotside.

Yet another piece of my puzzle fell into place yesterday with the arrival of this fine piece. After discussion with fahr_side, I've decided to tack weld the flapper door as opposed to using a bracket. That said, I'm wondering the best place to do this. I know I can obviously tack the door itself but I'm wondering if tacking the actuator arm instead might be a little easier to 'undo' if I ever sell the turbo to someone who doesn't want EWG. Thoughts?