jackal8788

Yesterday I had the L7 out for a spirited drive in the country not far from my house. During the drive, an Evo 9 rolled up behind me, though he didn't get up on my tail and ride it like I was anticipating. We came into a roundabout (yes, there is actually a roundabout on this country road), me still leading, and I nailed it on the way out. I expected him to be either on my a$$ or pulling alongside to pass but he remained in my rearview with me very slowly pulling away until I let off at ~75 mph. I dialed it back after that and started making my way home via a series of back roads with him still following me, albeit at a reasonable distance. Finally I stopped at a grocery store near my house just to see if he was going to pass on or pull in. I didn't think I had done anything to legitimately piss him off but the roads he followed me on seemed too deliberate to just be his chosen route for the day. He pulled in and trotted over to me as I was walking up to the store with a small smile on his face and he said 'Dude, what the f*ck is that thing? I was planning to walk you coming out of that roundabout.' I told him a little bit about the car and he made as if to get going after telling me it was the meanest and loudest sleeper he'd ever seen. I thanked him and walked into the store. As I did, I looked out the windows back to the parking lot and saw him outside snapping a few shots of the car with his phone

That's an interesting idea that seems like it might have a few things working for it. It introduces a restriction in the flow path downstream from the turbine, thus adding backpressue and as a result of the reduction in flow area, you will create a region of higher velocity and lower pressure, which may further help scavenge gasses from the wastegate passage.

This little $2.00 champ did the trick for me In fact, I have since mailed it to another member who was having similar issues and he has reported that it remedied his overboost as well. I have the template as a .dxf if anyone is wants it.

Early on it was more back-and-forth testing, analyzing, and refining the mathematical models. Now I've gotten to the point where I can usually estimate the fudge factors (discharge coefficient, correction factor, etc.) close enough to make parts that do what they need to. You know, for government work...

Bernoulli my friend Can't tell you how frequently I use Bernoulli's Equation in venturi design. Note that I said 'use' though. Deriving it, best left to minds brighter than my own.

That's correct - it was in addition to what BNR does already.

Not sure on the stock turbo but I know in the case of my old turbo (a BNR 20G), it was ported and successfully eliminated my overboost, but on Sm00veM00ve's setup, he still had an issue. The effectiveness of the porting is a bit subjective as some jobs may be done 'better' than others.

Edit has been made

Running the 3/16" sir.

Thanks Chris! Below is the exact response back from Paul and he does indicate that the point man (or woman) will receive a little extra discount for their effort. Since you volunteered, I'm glad to pass over the reigns to you on starting the thread, communicating with Paul, etc. His response with pricing below: Hi Joe, I do very occasionally do GROUP BUYS, under these parameters: I deal with ONE PERSON who orders the group of plates. For each plate I get: year/model/engine/trans + any mods like UP-PIPES, OIL PANS, etc that could affect fitment. Also if they want 1/8" or 3/16" (no other options available, nothing custom) and each person's NAME/ADDRESS/PHONE and if they want a rear diff cover added or not. I make a quote with shipping to each individual recipient. That same one person collects the money and then makes a single payment to me at the time of the order. I give that one person an additional $30 off their personal skidplate. Minimum of 3 frt skidplates. Pricing: 3-5 plates 1/8" $179 3/16" $219 + shipping 6-9 plates 1/8" $169 3/16" $209 + shipping Rear diff cover, 3/16" +$89 with any front plate (+ shipping). Pe

If you guys want to make a list of names, I'd be glad to act as a go-between just to contact him and see if he's willing to offer a GB discount. I know when I called him for mine a few weeks ago he indicated he would be increasing pricing soon because he's held it steady for quite awhile and raw material costs have gone up. Note that there are some different options in terms of cutouts that he offers on the bottom. I personally went with no cutouts to offer maximum protection, but the downside is that I have to take the plate off when I want to change oil. It's 3 bolts and comes off in about a minute though so I don't have any qualms about that. Besides, it means I can admire my non-damaged turbo and header that much more clearly every time I'm down there Edit: I decided to just e-mail him and ask anyway. Doesn't hurt to know and that way if he won't do it, you guys don't have to waste time making a list. I'll post back as soon as I hear from him.

Edit: I just visited the page and read his post - I see he may have taken a small liberty with my quote as he uses the terms 'upgraded turbo, uppipe, etc.' Silly uppipes and their inhibition of fast spool

Wow, he didn't waste any time posting that! When I e-mailed him my kudos, he responded back asking if he could use my posting and I said 'absolutely - I want to share my positive experience.' It's refreshing that sometimes good news can travel as quickly as bad. We need more of that...

Fully agree! I just sent Paul (owner of Primitive) a note on this along with a link to my post. He absolutely deserves a shout-out!

Folks, today was almost a day where I could have added some potentially major drama to bust up the monotony of the last 3 weeks. On my way in to work travelling at ~60 MPH, the Camaro in front of me suddenly veered hard to the right. Before I even had time to react or see why, I caught a glimpse of something black zip under my car and heard a resounding 'clang' as it connected with the skid plate, then the sound of it dragging as I slowed down. I pulled over and inspected the car - no damage to the bumper cover whatsoever and other than a healthy gouge and small dent in the skid plate, no sign than anything happened. Had I not upgraded to the Primitive plate (3/16"), I could have possibly destroyed better than $2500 worth of goodies. Primitive Racing FTW!!!

Okay, you guys will literally not believe what happened today.... Nothing!!

I hate to disappoint GT but it seems that the Time-Sert was effective! Everything is back together now so after a short drive and time to let everything cool off, I will be re-torquing all nuts. I also ordered a set of copper exhaust lock nuts so when they arrive, I'll be installing those and hoping like hell I can stop generating new and amazing posts in this saga, at least for a couple weeks

So I was planning to use a Keensert that would maintain the M10x1.25 thread for the stud, but it required the head to be tapped to M14. I think it would work well (read some good reviews of them in this application on other forums) but my only concern was drilling out that stud bore to tap M14 thread. Am I going to be getting too close to the cooling jacket?

The issue with mine is that the stud is actually pulling down through the threads, not just backing out or rotating so I think I have physically destroyed the threads in the head

As promised, the updated VD graphs. See, look at all that power I got almost a week to enjoy

Turns out they are indeed M10x1.25. Also (and this is really awesome since I've been able to enjoy the car properly for almost a week), as I turn in my driveway tonight I hear a 'ping' sound. I dismiss it and get the car on ramps to inspect and tighten the header nuts. I then see one of the nuts is completely missing. Holy shit, I think. I walk back to my driveway and sure enough, there's the errant nut. I proceed to begin putting it back on the stud and while tightening (not even to the point of beginning to snug, still just tightening), I feel an odd sensation, as though maybe the stud were turning. I index the end of the stud, rotate another 1/2 turn, and see the index mark hasn't moved. Okay, I think, keep tightening. I make a few more turns and start thinking I should be at the point of snugging and completing the task so I remove the socket and I see ~1/2" of stud exposed below the nut. I look at the other nuts which are tight and see only ~1/4" of stud exposed..... So now tomorrow the header comes off and we will attempt to drill and tap to M12 in that area. You guys thought this was just going to be the end of it and I would happily drive my car for months with no issues? A 54 page build thread would contradict that....

Thanks. I just wanted to get the nuts on order right away without crawling under the car, dropping the skid plate, and taking a measurement or removing the old nut. Surely not hard, I'm just being lazy

Does anyone know offhand what the thread size and pitch are for our exhaust flange studs? Does M10x1.25 sound correct? I had a small exhaust leak this morning and I found one of the nuts had loosened just a bit. I snugged it up, but I'm thinking I may double up with some copper exhaust nuts beneath just as insurance.

Yep, that's the gist of it. The 20G may produce equal to the 18G billet but it will be a bit more laggy due to the larger compressor wheel.

Almost 50 pages (and let's not mention how many dollars) later, I got my answer Not to continue inundating this thread with boring data and charts, but this does genuinely interest me and perhaps some of you will enjoy it as well. Here's a boost curve comparison between stock, the billet 18G, and the 20G. Recall that the 18G does also have the addition of a different header and the external wastegate so this isn't 100% apples to apples. Note that we are still making a few minor tweaks to the map but it's pretty much dialed in. I'm having some issues with Virtual Dyno right now but when I have it working, I will plot out the power curves like I did in my previous post.