jazzymt

Yes, your order hasn't shipped yet. I apologize for the delay - I'm still trying to get caught up. Your board is made & the parts are ready though, it will ship tomorrow & you should have it Saturday. That's not true anymore. The new iPod docking cable that's included in the iPod kits *IS* compatible with and will charge the new iPhone 3G and the newest generation of iPods including the latest Touch. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=HF14U-04-ND

Sorry for the delays guys - I don't know if it was the holidays or what, but I've been waiting on parts from my supplier since last year and they finally showed up this week. What I had in stock carried me for awhile, but eventually I ran out. I shipped several orders Wednesday and today - I'm still waiting on cables that should be here today so I can ship out all remaining orders tomorrow. For those that received shipping notifications Tues night - you should receive your order today. For those that received notifications last night - you probably won't receive your order until Monday. The rest will arrive Monday or Tuesday after shipping tomorrow.

Sorry for the lack of replies guys - I don't have another email, I just haven't had time to reply to them all lately & have gotten further behind on emails than orders. Honest - my mom's emails are even getting replied to late! I will try to do better at least before xmas. FWIW - the boards came in last week. Orders should be mostly up to date and shipped out except what has come in during the last few days. Expect delays from USPS to start racking up due to the holidays. I may switch to FedEx in the next coming weeks because X-mas delays were very long in some cases last year, up to 5-6 weeks in one case, but I need to get some different supplies to do that & costs will go up a bit. Korivo - I'm not sure what might have happened in your install. I would try reinstalling it and see if there's static with no device hooked up or maybe a different device if you can borrow a friends iPod or something. Regarding the new Touch & iPhone3G - the charge cables I'm now selling are compatible with them and basically every other iPod. As far as I know, the old cables should have still provided audio output, even though they don't charge, so I'm not sure why yours wouldn't work Francis.

It's still an auxiliary input guys. The new iPod cable from PAC I'll be buying is the IC-AV2. Check out my site or their site (http://www.pac-audio.com). I was planning on getting the IC-RCA2 (just audio), but it's the same price as the AV2 (audio & video) and it's not available. It's very similar to the old cable, but it has a chip in it to regulate the voltage to 5V for the newer iPods.

Sorry guys - I've been crappy about answering emails lately. It's been kinda stressful here lately too - I gotta figure out how and when I'm going to get a new car - soon. Regarding the aux-in boards, for those that don't know - I'm out of circuit boards. I ordered some prototypes from a new vendor for boards to be used with RCA connections. I was finally able to test them last night & they work fine, but I'm not happy with the new company I tried, so last night I also placed an order for new boards with my previous vendor - a much more expensive vendor. Since the holidays are coming up and I know people are already waiting for orders, I pitched in several hundred more dollars to get them sooner so I should have production boards within the next week and a half (with shipping). The new boards will install exactly the same as the old ones, they just have RCA connections, which should be a bit more reliable. Also - they'll be red...just because red circuit boards look cool. And I took out the capacitors because a few people complained of them filtering out bass and I'm just not sure they were helping any. Regarding the iPod cables - the price is going to go up to $35 because PAC has released a new cable & it's quite a bit more expensive for me. The new cable however should be higher quality and is compatible with all the new generations of iPods, including the Touch and the iPhone 3G. I will have new cables before I get the boards. I'll also be going back to the RCA GLI since the board now has RCA connections, which is $2 cheaper ($15 vs. the current $17).

Sorry for the delay (yet again). Actually I was on vacation the last week - took my mom up to Sedona & hung out with some other family that came down to visit. Regardless - I'm still here - I'll try to get caught up on all the orders from the last week in the next day or two. FYI - I'm also almost out of circuit boards and there will probably be a delay in another 2-3 weeks between when I run out and order more. They're pretty expensive to have made quickly, so I have to wait 3-4 weeks to have them made. I'll also be changing the design slightly to use RCA jacks in the future.

Sorry for all the delays guys. My new job has been a bitch - it's tough to get much done when I get up - go to work - come home & go to bed each day. Then, the wifey wants me to do work around the property all weekend. Anyway - I'm still here, still shipping orders. I'm trying to keep turnaround time under a week, but it's tough. I've gotten to the point where I can usually only ship on Mondays. I hope everyone can understand. Thanks for your continued orders and support everyone.

Sorry about the bad CD's guys. I was having some problems with my burner there for awhile. The good news is it's very easy to make a new one- I wrote a simple walkthru to create a new silent CD: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=379369&postcount=381

The GLi is directional - it has uneven windings (I think 1.3:1) to "boost" the signal up a bit to offset the use of the GLI, so plugging it in backwards will reduce the signal slightly instead. That said - I'm not sure if you could tell the difference. It will still function in reverse - just a bit quieter. Instead - you could install an 1/8" stereo extension cable (male/female) into the aux-in board and route that to somewhere convenient to plug in the GLI...make sense?

Indeed.

That should work fine - although the background *silence* of an FM modulator will not be as good as the digital "nothingness" of a perfectly silent CD - you will probably notice the difference at higher volumes. Yup - it's alternator whine - aka, ground loop noise. A GLI should eliminate it. You can get one at Radio Shack, Walmart, etc. too if you want an instant solution, although they're all RCA so you might need an adapter or two - you can likely get those there too.

That looks pretty nice. I will probably start recommending that exclusively for people who want to use more than one input...it's the only solution I've seen so far that addresses the need to plug in more than one device. Do you notice any distortion from the pre-amp? Sound quality still pretty good?

FYI - my Chevy 2500 HD w/6.0L V8 and stock tires drives like it was on rails compared to my 05 XT w/Tripletreads even in RWD (on ice). You can assume all you want, but I'm not an incompetent driver. I'm aware of what's required to keep my vehicle under control in the worst of conditions - I've been driving them my whole life and have never been in an accident. That said - my XT is downright terrifying on ice and I've never experienced anything like what it does in any other vehicle & apparently - neither does anyone else passing me on the roadway when it happens. I've tried everything I can think of (tires, alignment, different payloads, etc.) and most of those help a little, but none eliminate it. Once again - this isn't an oversteer issue - the car's rear end oscillates on the road at about 1Hz, I figure about 2-3" back and forth. It's about the most unsettling thing you can imagine to be driving down a slick road and have the car not just be unresponsive - but practically *fight* you for control. Off throttle, on throttle, braking - none of it makes any difference.

FYI - 5EAT & 5MT XT owners on sob.org have both reported the problem. This is not an oversteer issue & it's not a winter driving issue. The POINT is that this car has something that causes the rear end to "resonate" side to side when on ice and feel severely unstable at speed much lower than everyone else on the road.

Well, as I've told others - it's almost certainly the jack on the aux-in board itself. Unfortunately, over time & vibration, that connection just isn't the most reliable and can become loose - causing one or both speakers to cut out intermittently or permantently (usually just one, intermittently). It doesn't happen often, but it happens often enough... The best thing to do is to just desolder the jack and solder the wires directly to the circuit board. If you want to send it back to me with the cable that plugs into it, I can either do that for you, or just solder a new jack onto the board. As far as removing the board yourself - I really believe that just about anyone can do it if they take their time.

For low volume levels, I can also recommend the following: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep.php?prod_id=446 And PAC Audio's Turbo 1 & Turbo X pre-amps: http://www.pac-audio.com/products/productsCatagory.asp?mmSearch=Audio%20Video%20Accessories I've tried both of these & they both work well. PAC's tend's to add a bit more bass boost than JL Audio's even though I tried the Turbo1 which isn't listed as having a "bass boost". I think it's also actually better at amplifying cleanly than JL Audio's and costs 1/3 as much. Technically - the CL-RLC has a better listed SNR, but that's not the way I hear it... The Boostaroo headphone amp amplifies more than both & adds very little distortion if you need the amplification (higher signals will become overmodulated). You will definitely want a GLI installed with JL Audio's preamp - PAC's might not need one by itself, but it wouldn't hurt - the Boostaroo is battery operated, so it doesn't need one. tu11ym0n - If you continue to have problems with the iPod docking cable, send me a PM & we'll try to get it resolved. I've heard of a couple issues with loose connectors & you might just have a bad one - it's certainly not intended to work that way, but I don't know many people with iPhones either, so that might be part of the issue.

Well I was hoping it was just a easy fix / install mistake, but it sounds like you're suffering from a case of the dissappearing display - which isn't actually related to the aux-in board at all - it's a warranty issue that several members who have never done anything to their radio have suffered from too. Search "blank radio" or equivalent & you'll find several posts. If you can't get the display to come back to life once all buttoned up, you might have to take the board out & get the radio replaced under warranty. It's blanked out on me a few times, but only for split seconds - it's never gone away completely like that, but for others it has. I suspect there's a stacking of tolerances that causes the plugs to just barely be touching under the right/wrong circumstances - which may be where you're at.

The only "wiring" you have to do is to splice two power wires & really, you don't "have" to do that either - the cable will work w/o power, it just won't charge. There's lots of walkthru's for splicing wires on the net, but if you run into trouble - feel free to post here, pm or email me. I'll help however I can.

This is about all I've got: http://www.jazzyengineering.com/ProKit-iPod2.pdf As far as power - I would recommend tapping into the cigarett lighter wires under the radio. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Good luck with your install.

Settle down chillins.

Uh... I don't know that the iPod cable I sell is compatible with the iPhone, but assuming it is - if you're going to charge the iPhone while playing music from it, I would suggest using a GLI - yes. Thanks for the smattering of continued praise too guys. Said it before - I'll say it again - it never gets old. Just an FYI for those that probably have no idea - I'm actually in the middle of moving my wife & I down to Tucson, so pardon me if I'm a bit late responding to posts, PMs, emails & orders - I have pretty limited internet & been workin my arse off at my new day job - so what I can get done in my little closet of a temporary apartment leaves something to be desired for everyone. ...just thought I'd let everyone know - I haven't fallen off the face of the earth, I'm just sorta scrambling with the new job, trying to sell a house with the wife 1500 miles away & arrange buying a new house to move into all at the same time with limited space, time & internet. I'll get to everyone eventually - just hang in there.

Everyone's entitled to their own opinion & from the beginning I haven't faulted anyone for wanting a different solution - I've actually helped several people find the info to do their own thing. However - if you want to talk further about a different solution, I would prefer if you did it in a different thread. This one is big enough already - people looking for info on this solution don't need more clutter.

The problem is that a lot of sat radios don't provide a true line level out (as well as other mp3 players) & you need a preamp like this: Boostaroo

It has been "tested". It is not plug & play compatible, but if you're crazy enough - you can mod your radio to do the same thing. Pattali - a member from France was adventurous enough to try it - but with all the modification he had to do in the end, he really didn't need my aux-in board. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26332

Jeff, The radio antenna connector is clipped to the lower driver side of the radio opening. It's a small, square, gray plug about half the size of a box of matches. I'm glad you're enjoying the aux-in though. f1anatic - Sorry, I didn't see your message until now. I don't always get notifications for some reason. Anyway, it's probably too late, but I do offer overnight shipping by request for $20 instead of the normal $5.