trabbic

I think there are fuses under the hood also for the airbag, check that before you go to the dealer.

Yup... That might be a good choice for those people that want a less expensive option or perhaps want to keep their shifter buttons if they drive a slowmatic.

It is under the troubleshooting section for the stereo controls...

First check the fuse panel, to make sure it is not a blown fuse. I would double check that first. Then make sure you have the wires on the airbag plugged in to the correct places. Also check the plug on the roll connector. Then double check to make sure you did not cut or unplug any of the yellow sheathed wires down by the steering column. I am pretty sure that none of the wires in the other plugs do anything for the airbag. So I think your problem lies with one of the yellow sheathed wires. Please report back and let us know what you find. And yes I was in no condition to give advise about air bags last night! Go HENS!

In no way is this trying to be mean... But are you sure you plugged in the air bag connectors? It is easy to double check. Tomorrow I will re-read the post and double-check the wires you did and did not use.

Nope just a pdf for stereo removal. Yup.

Yes i did, posting up now. Sorry, got lost in the hustle... Edited the directions to include this link: http://www.trabbic.com/legacy/radio%20install.pdf

HAHA Yeah finally catching up on the boards. I feel like I have been gone for MONTHS! So when are you gonna do this mod CasopoliS?

Email me the PDF and I will host it for you. Well there you go guys, it is possible and works fine on an Automatic, good job mcsquish!

Sounds good, let me know... balrock01 might do the install also, so maybe we can have a mini install day, it'll take only about an hour to do both, some install day huh![/font]

Let me know if you need help, after all we are neighbors! If you wanted to come over and do the install here, we could probably knock it out in about 1/2 hour. -Chris

Interesting... Keep us informed on what you find.

Interesting! Looks like all automatics use the same wiring harness. This is potential good news for those with 2.5i who want shifter controls...

That is correct, pin 4 on ST4 is ground.

THANK YOU! Feel free to contact me if you have questions, also I hope the info above helps a little.

Now to continue this discussion a basic diagram of the stereo controls: ST4 is the green connector that is part of the switch assembly in all legacy's. In the MT's and 4EAT's this switch is only wired for the horn, one wire on pin 5. leaving 1-4 empty In 5EAT's the green connector has the horn (Pin 5), and controls for the sport shift, these use pins 2,3 and 4. Leaving 1 empty. In Cars equipped with steering wheel stereo controls they use pin 5 (horn), and pins 1,2,3,4 for the stereo controls. (1,2 for the actual control, and 3,4 for illumination.) Now the wires on B68 that lead into the rest of the car are as follows (only the pins we are interested in): Pin 3 = Horn Pin 2, 7, 6, 8 = Depends on application (damn Subaru!) In a 5EAT pins 2 and 7 are used to connect to the shift lever, and therefore into the TCM to control shifting. Pin 6 is not used. 8 is Ground In a MT and 4EAT, 2, 6, 7, 8, are not used there are no wires running off of 868. In a car with stereo switches from the factory, 6, and 7 go to the stereo (eventually), 2 is illumination control, 8 is Ground. So, a person with a 5EAT or 2.5i MT, or 4EAT CAN install this. Here are the preliminary procedures: 2.5i MT and 4EAT: SAME as a GT with Manual. Read the directions above and go to town. 5EAT: Follow steps 1-9. When you get to step 10 here are the differences: 1. You will have to cut the wires leading to the TCM, these are pins 2 and 7, the wire colors are: Pin 2 (VW) Violet with White Stripe Pin 7 (L) Blue 2. Leave enough room to reconnect them later if you want to go back to stock and to allow enough room to tap them. You may have to peel back several inches of tape covering the wire bundle. 3. Connect one of the control wires from the stereo to the wire coming out of pin 7 (Blue), and connect the other one (pin 6) as shown in the directions same as MT. 4. Then connect the illumination using Pin 2 wire (Violet with White stripe) to the violet with white stripe on the back of the stereo. Some notes: 1. 2.5i cars, you MAY not have the correct roll connector, the only way to find out is to buy the wheel and connect it up. Worst case scenario is that you have to buy the roll connector from a GT. ($60) Also it has not been confirmed that the single disc stereo will accept the commands from the controls, but the wires have been confirmed to be there, so I would bet my money on the fact that they WILL work. 2. 5EAT cars, it is POSSIBLE, that the illumination may just work when you plug it in, but I doubt it. Also we may have to modify the above directions so that the dimmer switch works correctly. This is something to check when doing the install. So check illumination before you continue cutting wires. I hope this answers some of the same questions I get a LOT and addresses some of the concerns of those with AT and the 2.5i

Illumination should already be there if you have the shifter controls. So you are correct there are two wires to cut and run to the back of the stereo. It is FOR SURE, NOT there on the MT that is why I had to run wires for illumination. Have you plugged in a stereo controls to make sure that the illumination uses the same wires for the shifter controls and the stereo controls? Nobody has actually done this to confirm they use the same pins. The AT control system wiring diagram contains no reference to illumination, only two control wires Pins 2,4 on the roll connector (ST4) and 7,2 on the Body unit (B68), and a ground pin 3 (ST4) and 8 on (B68). I have asked 5EAT owners 1,000,001 times if the shift controls are illuminated, and have never received a response. One more time 5EAT, are your shifter controls illuminated on the steering wheel? Now, for the steering wheel STEREO controls, the wiring diagram for the audio system does not even have ST4 on it (we can find that information elsewhere however). It does have B68 and what wires must leave that connector to go to B36 to control the stereo, and illumination. NONE of these wires exist on an MT. You MUST run all off them. they are pins 7, 6 (for stereo control), and 2 and 8 (for illumination). From the stereo remote switch diagnostic, we know that pins 1,2 on ST4 are used to control the stereo. next, what all this crap means...

Correct. (Sorry for the delay, I did not get an email about your post... )

^^ The Orange/White and Purple/White. Does not matter which as long as the resistance between the two is indicated above when the button is pressed. These wires are on the right side of the stereo, the same side as the volume control.

OK guys I am going to be trying, in the next couple of weeks, to figure out what other commands the stereo can handle besides the ones on the controls. For example, when I was first hooking up the connections, I was able to make the stereo say "CALL" and it was muted while I held down the button. This makes be believe that the stereo is programed to perform more than what the controls now send it. I would like to ultimately have the MODE button setup to scroll through the channel presets. I don't know if that is even possible yet, but I plan on sending all kinds of signals to see what the stereo can do... Here is what we know so far from the factory service manual: MUTE - 22 Ohms Volume + - 90 Ohms Volume - - 200 Ohms MODE - 360 Ohms Seek + - 690 Ohms Seek - - 1500 Ohms Nominal - 4700 Ohms

Sorry for the delay in replying... A board may be possible depending on how the steering wheel shifter controls actually work. You would have to run wires at the switch level to make something like this work, but I think that there is a little room in the steering wheel behind the air bag. It would be pretty complicated.

This is 100% correct... Thanks for typing it all up for me!

Brady, any more ghosts? Everyone else, has anybody with an automatic done this yet?

I think that's got to be it... if they are just touching a little that will allow all buttons to work except the very low Ohm commands, IE the MUTE (22 Ohms). Pushing the horn in causes the wires to connect a little better and everything works again! And when you wiggled the wires it was better for a couple of days, right? I think you got it there, keep us informed...