covertrussian

Thanks everyone for the kind words!

There are a few bushings that I haven't done yet, and probably wont if increases engine/driveline vibrations, for those I'll do my best to find another person's instructions and link them here.

This thread is a one stop shop for all of the bushing part numbers and replacement instructions for the 2005-2009 (BL/BP) Legacy.

Front Suspension

Lower Control Arm

Forward Bushing - Instructions

LCA Forward Bushing Part Numbers

AVO - S2C08G1GV057T

Nolathane - REV028.0004

Powerflex (street) - PFF69-501

SuperPro - SPF3091K

Whiteline - W0506

Rearward Bushing - Instructions

LCA Rearward Bushing Part Numbers

AVO - S1X03E1GV001T

SuperPro - SPF2801K

SuperPro (Caster +0.5) - SPF5112K

SuperPro (Caster +0.5 ALK - Outback Model) - SPF3094K

SuperPro (Caster + 20mm ALK) - TRC3095

PowerFlex (Street) - PFF69-505G

Siberian Bushing - B00Z9WFALI

Whiteline (Caster +0.5) - KCA334 (Adjustable)

Whiteline - W53353

Front Anti-Swaybar

SuperPro "Standard Size" - SPF3096-21K

SuperPro "18mm ID" - SPF3096-18K or SPF3096-19K

Whiteline - W0406-20G

Steering Rack - TO DO

Steering Rack Bushing Part Numbers

Avo - S1105M1GVUSAT

Energy Suspension - 19.10101g

Prothane - 16-701-BL

SuperPro - SPF2889BK

SuperPro - SPF2889K

Whiteline - KSR207

Rear Suspension

Trailing Arm (Forward Knuckle) - Instructions

Trailing Arm Bushing Part Numbers

Nolathane - 46333

SuperPro - SPF3388-70K

Whiteline - W63398

Upper Control Arm - Instructions

Outward (Knuckle Top) Part Numbers

SuperPro - SPF3389K

Whiteline - KCA399 (Adjustable)

Whiteline - W63397

Inward (Subframe) Part Numbers

Nolathane - REV050.0026

SupePro - SPF3390K

Whiteline - W63396

Toe Arm - Instructions

Outward (Bushing is in Knuckle) Part Numbers

SuperPro - SPF3392K

Whiteline - W63394

Inward (Subframe: Toe Cam Bolts) Part Numbers

Whiteline - W63395

Rear LCA (Forward) - Instructions

Rear LCA Part Numbers

SuperPro - SPF3391K

Whiteline - W63393

Control Arm Kit

Whiteline Trailing Arm Kit - KTA124 - Replaces all of the lower arms, but you will still need bushings that reside in the knuckle and upper arms.

Rear Subframe

Subframe Inserts

SuperPro (Upper & Lower, for vehicles with voids in upper and lower bushings) - SPF3007K

SuperPro (Lower Only, for vehicles with solid uppers) - SPF3008K

Whiteline - KDT902

Drivetrain

Rear Differential

Void Filling Inserts - Instructions

Whiteline (Rear Voids only) - KDT927

Whiteline (Front & Rear Voids, 2008+) - KDT903* (2005-07 have solid bushings for front differential mount, while 2008+ has

Rear Diff Forward (Outrigger) Bushings

Whiteline - KDT905

Rear Diff Rearward Bushings

Whiteline - KDT906

Aha! The twin tip one is probably very quite:

I like your license plate .

I just changed it, got tired of people butchering it either the comfy part or the STI part. Now it's a little more self explanatory.

Well beyond what I am capable of, kudos. I'm fairly new to the world of legacies, just bought one where the previous owner had installed aftermarket uppipe, downpipe, and catback. I don't mind the sound, but my wife thinks it is way too loud. My thoughts were to initially have a resonator installed to help with the droning, but read up that it doesn't really do much for the actual dB that the exhaust produces. I am now looking to replace the aftermarket catback with a stock one. Would you recommend this for noise reduction? Also, any potential issues I might face in switching out? I know this will affect backpressure and performance, but will it be significant? THanks

Resonator helps reduce the higher pitched "raspy" noises on cars, but the inefficiency of unequal length headers already does that, thus resonators don't seem to do much. A lot of aftermarket exhausts use too small of mufflers, there's just not enough volume in them to reduce noise.

Your options are to go back to stock, which honestly is more then sufficient for these cars (if mine wasn't so rusty I would've went back too, since gains were tiny). The alternative is to start hunting for better/bigger mufflers and paying a shop to fab it in place.

So it's possible to move the front O2, the one that keeps dying, to the wide band location after the turbo? I'm not going to run out and do it, I'm just curious if I am understanding.

You got it

Just to confirm what i think you're saying, that the 2010-12 LGT and Ascent thermostats are all a direct replacement from a mechanical size perspective? the difference being the T-stat opening temp. I like the idea of at least moving to a 10-12 LGT T-stat, since i don't track and rarely really boost mine. and moving to 182 or 192 could offset the warmup "issue" that kept me from getting the fancy koyorad, which would also be a great addition to the change. The T-stat would set your lower temp and the much more efficient all Al koyorad would keep you from going much higher.

 

honestly, you need to set up a paypal or patreon account.

Sorry for the confusion, I meant they use the same temps, that's not to say they will or will not fit.

I installed 21200AA200, which is for EJ253 Legacy and Outbacks and is 88C:

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/THERMO-ASSEMBLY/49231072/21200AA200.html

Here's part numbers for the various years:

2005 GT: 78c(172f): 21200AA072 (Stock)

2010-12 GT 84c(183f): 21200AA230 (Should fit because EJ255)

2012 2.5i 88c(190f): 21200AA200 (Confirmed Fits)

2020 Ascent 88c (190F): 21210AA190 (will not fit, but same temp range): https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/THERMO-AND-GASKET-ASSEMBLY/49231121/21210AA190.html

I do have a Paypal account and will admit my testing has slowed down due to tighter budget, harder to justify almost $20 in gas, just to test a part. If you want to be generous and would like to contribute to the testing gas money fund, send me a PM .

Do you think the additional 10F would also slightly increase your probabilities of knocking?

Factory is 172F, so it's extra 20F. Probably though especially on hot days, but you can pull timing via ECT correction table. Also any efficiency gains will be negated if you don't adjust the radiator fan tables to be higher (factory fan is on at 203-205F...).

The reason I went with 190F, is because the Ascent uses 190F temp range too, while 2010-12 LGT uses 182F (10F warmer then ours, fitment unknown). Also my NA 2012 Outback uses a 190F stat, that DOES fit, but since it's NA it has less heat to worry about.

200F when cruising? wow. Our 05 hoovers around 179F with OEM thermostat (78C marking on it). The 06, with the same thermostat, is more like 185F. The latter is lower if that makes any difference. Both got new radiators and new OEM tstats a couple of months ago.

It's a 192F thermostat, but as with all thermstats car always cruises 8-10F warmer then the stat it self (with fans off). I went with the higher end extreme to see if thermal efficiency goes up.

I thought the grimmspeed dp was already tapped right behind the turbo for a wide band? Wouldn't that be a fine place for an o2 without throwing of afr, considering that's where many people put their wide bands?

 

Also I thought the forward o2 was unnecessary?

They do, but that's where my wideband lives, so that I'm not blind to what the car is doing . I could perhaps tap into the aftermarket O2 for the closed loop operation, but that seems pretty complicated on it's own.

As for moving the front o2 sensor to downpipe, since the sensor is going to be further away, there are some delays in reading that will happen. Plus it a much less hostile environment, so some O2 related tables might need tweaking.

I heard that may throw off the A/F ratio reading.... I've been tempted to test that theory but decided to leave it alone.

I'll do a detailed post about it, if I ever do do it. I just don't want to drill and weld my GS downpipe

at 5k miles per O2, it costs $200/yr. It's like a wear item in my mind now. I got 10k out of the last one, so winning?

The one I have looks exactly like the one that died. Both have the grey clips that attach to the oem mount. They come with high quality looking anti-sieze, correct warning paper work. Plug snap in without issue. nothing I can see to make me think it's a fake. If they're fake, it's really well done.

 

Pretty sure it's just my car that kills these things.

Are you running really rich or lean? What kind of header you running again?

good info on the springs. i ordered some, but also looked at my calipers for a refresher on general construction. they don't appear easy to put on with our caliper style. assume it would be way easier on a fixed (vs. our floating) type.

Might be much easier on the Legacy, it does have much bigger brakes. Either way let us know how it goes!

ooooh, i'd love a warmer t-stat.

Lets just say my cruising water temp is 200F even at freezing temperatures. I'm not sure it will be good for summer though.

Crazy info on the fakes! i can't even see an appreciable difference between what they show as real and fake, except maybe the rougher edges to the threads and metal. i (probably wrongly) assume that Rock Auto is getting theirs from a legit source. my last set was from mSprank, so hopefully they're legit, although i'm hopefully changing them soon due mostly to age.

 

 

But similar pricing at some other places i think of as legit (although 30% higher cost than RA). Maybe all the plugs on RA for NGK are fakes and they just mirror the pricing of true parts -30%...

 

NGK.com

LFR6BHX $10.92 each (Ruthenium + fancy tips)

SILFR6B8 $16.13 each (Iridium + fancy tips)

 

Napa.com

LFR6BHX $11.99 each (Ruthenium + fancy tips)

SILFR6B8 $17.49 each (Iridium + fancy tips)

Last set I got was from RockAuto early last year, they were $8ish for Iridium SILFR6B8's, but the same ones are now $11ish at RockAuto. Makes me concerned that I got knockoffs and I didn't take any good pictures of them either, but the car is running fine, so I think it's all good.

I forgot your gap question, the more boost you run the smaller the gap you need to avoid spark blowout. You want the run the biggest gap you can without getting spark blowout, since it exposes more of the spark to the air and fuel mixture. If the car runs better with a smaller gap, that means your getting spark blowout with your boost levels, or your coils are getting weak.

I personally used to sidegap, old copper trick, so my gaps were bigger then normal. With B8's I'm running the upper end of factory spec (0.028-0.031).

Is there a way to tell if you have a fake one? I haven't had issues with the one I bought about a year ago, but I do recall the cable length between the O2 I replaced and the new one being different colors and different lengths. The new one had a shorter cable with yellow protective wrapping while the older one was wrapped in blue and longer.

I haven't seen/heard of Denso ones myself yet, but that was referring to this mostly: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/counterfeit-spark-plugs-281452.html

I've tried using those clips on my other cars and they were such a pita to install that I don't think I've ever even used them. IMO the gains are gonna be very tiny, if at all. Raise one of your wheels, see if you can rotate it (going to be limited amount of movement thanks to AWD). I can do it with one finger on my Legacy.

As for the plugs, those LFR6BHX seem WAY too cheap. Make sure you're not getting counterfeits: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/counterfeit-spark-plugs-281452.html

Finally, I've been doing a lot of testing in the background, but as usual the external factors have been really limiting me, so I have to swap in parts back and forth and it's just getting frustrating at this point.

Right now I'm testing a warmer T-Stat, hope to have some updates in coming weeks.

Got 10k miles on this last O2. Time for a new one.

Which ones are you buying and where from?

Back in 2013 I bought the Denso 234-9120, 58k miles and a few header swaps later, still reads true (I watch the AEM Uego often while driving).