covertrussian

Pro-tune is basically just a tune that was built for your specific car/setup by a professional (or someone that knows what they are doing). Is that the tune that you just downloaded directly from your ECU using ECU Flash? If so then sounds like your ECU might have been swapped out, this is weird but might have been done to bypass immobilizers (My 04 FXT didn't have a chipped key). Keep in mind that ECU's Tune are NOT cross comparable between different ECU's, it's like trying to run PowerPC Mac OS on Intel, your gonna have a bad day. The problem is, the flashing software might not stop you from flashing a wrong OS tune, which could brick the ECU completely. If that tune is what was downloaded, Romraider is showing that "A2WC50" is the latest revision. If that's the case, dig up the ECU it self and look at the part number stickers. Maybe someone did accidentally flash the wrong OS hence all the issues that you are seeing.

What version of tune are you running? Should be in your tune file it self. AFAIK 2005 didn't have any cold weather fixes, last version is "A2WC522N". If you are not on A2WC522N, you could just flash it to that yourself. Now to me it sounds like your tune it self could be the culprit, so a pro-tuner would need to retune it to fix it. To answer your tune related question, there are two parts of the tune, the Operating System (OS) then inside of that there is the values that run the car (tune it self). When the dealer reflashes the ECU it replaces the whole OS , thus your tune would be completely rewritten and lost. The way we deal with this is, take the current moded tune with the old OS version, then get get the stock tune with OLD OS (that you can get here). To a comparison and note down the changed tables between your tune and stock tune. Next take the NEW OS from the same link as above, and copy over only the changed values. The reason you have to do it like this is, the new OS will have different pointers for data, so a direct Tune comparison wont always work right. It's a manual and tedious process but it's the only way really, especially since newer OS's will have different table sizes, which makes it harder then just a straight copy and paste.

I'm using RomRaider and ECU Flash, my original ROM wasn't defined, but fortunately a newer version with WQC-39 Recall was (which my state is technically not eligible for): EE5K801W What I would do is see if you can find a defined version on RomRaider and switch over to it. For example here is one for 2011 CVT Outback: https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9904

Aren't you glad you waited a few months? The lumber right now is 2-3x cheaper then it was this summer. I'm starting to buy up the lumber for my construction too.

Thanks! In some runs it's was a significant difference, but I couldn't tell if it was another factor (like launching at different rpm) or actual gains, so defaulted to the one that seemed the most accurate. I didn't realize how much time this car spends in sub 2,000 RPM range even. I'm so used to tuning for higher rpm's with my turbo cars, thus was really bummed to see NO gains 4k+ and thus would always just give up and go back to the stock tune. Part of me wants to fill it up with 93 again and make a tune that maxes that out, if there is significant gains then build the maps around that and use IAM pull back as octane based tunes. Forgot to mention, my current tune IAM has been sticking to 1.0 no problem!

It's been a while since I've updated this thread, I've been a bit too busy with house construction to bother with the cars. BUT the frustration of how slow and sluggish this car got this summer forced me out of hibernation. Knock Knock First thing I did was check the Learning Views and IAM was sitting at basically 0, which explained why the car was sluggish, but didn't explain why it was worse this year specifically. Either my heat shields were rattling and the car thought it was knock, my Shell's 87 got worse, my motor is on it's way out (had an odd vibration at some RPM ranges), or I simply started driving the care more and pay attention more (probably this since my legacy mostly sits). Fixing the rattles and replacing the air filter didn't help at all, so I started going the tuning rabbit hole again. IAM being at almost 0 told me that it's timing/octane related most likely. A couple years ago I did try 87 re-tuning a while ago, but overall the car felt worse then when it would self tune, and there where no peak gains, and multi-map deal was too frustrating, thus I went back to factory tune. Retuning the Timing After some testing I found that it was mostly knocking at 2,000-3,500 RPM which would knock the IAM down and the rest of the RPM range would be crippled too. I found that if I reduced the timing in 2-3k RPM range IAM would stop pulling nearly as much timing (IAM is very crude/aggressive), but feedback or fine learning would kick in and be more graceful. I kept on adding timing in until it reached MBT (Minimum Best Timing), in the end the map didn't look TOO different from the ECU self tuned map, but it's as much as 10* less then what the ECU wants to run (which I think is over MBT even with 93 octane): Here is the before and after dyno map, after first glance it doesn't seem like all that time and effort helped much at all right? This is why I gave up tuning this car before too. Now if you look carefully at the 2-3k rpm range, look at the torque difference... This was VERY noticeable in daily driving (1-3k RPM range), the car felt much more powerful, similar to when I would run 93 gas. Tuning out this little section of the RPM range made all the difference in the world in drive-ability. Unfortunately this part is really hard to graph, since the software doesn't graph things below 2k rpm well/consistently. The Air to fuel ratio difference is related to D learning, which would reset with each reflash. I went ahead and disabled D Learning to stop wasting fuel mid range and higher, since it clearly doesn't help with power. In the end did I get earth shattering results over stock adjusted timing? Nope, MBT for mid to high RPM range was basically what the ECU self tuned it too, what this brought was the consistent power on a 90-100F day, similar to what I would get on a 50-60F day. Also the IAM is now constantly staying to 1.00! This really surprised me at first, since I had full timing up top. Lets just say Feedback/Fine learning knock controls would get pretty angry. About the Primary/Reference Cruise and Non Cruise Maps I've tried messing with the different maps and I found that my car mostly uses "Base Timing Reference Non-Cruise" for cruising and non-cruising. I've seen it use the timing from one of the other maps at some points, but I think it was a weird combo of IAM/VVL/Water temp. I was hoping to use them based on IAM to have a low octane and high octane maps, but sadly the switching logic is just not that simple. Thus for this reason I took the WOT sections of my Non-Cruise map and blended into the cruising sections of the other maps. This gave me the most consistent performance.

That will work too, you still have to replace two gaskets, so figure out which gasket is cheaper .

I like that! I'm not sure how much it would help since my garage is a very basic metal shed design with a bunch of holes everywhere. My roof keeps on springing holes from when branches fall on it. I need a new roof, but it might be cheaper just to replace the whole structure

I've tried the Irish Spring Soap before, they chewed most of it up! I ended up getting a box of mothballs and put a bag in the trunk and in the engine bay, so far it seems to be working. I'll have to air the car out for weeks before driving it after that fact though, stuff stinks!

Plus G20 is so old and worthless now, that I don't mind doing more permanent mods to it. I have a spare engine and transmission, they used to be super cheap to replace, but nowadays probably as costly as EJ's . Insurance and registration/property tax is cheap fortunately, my main problem is once again batteries AND mice. Last year a mouse decided to chew up all of the wires that I had to add, since new wires are soy based. Unfortunately it also bid up the factory engine harness in some areas too. I've been very slowly working on re-crimping the wires, but I wont lie it's been a drag since I'm busy with building a house instead.

Yup pretty much that and if we do go somewhere (which we do all the time), we take the Outback instead since it's far bigger/more comfortable to go places in. Part of me is wondering if it's time to part with my Legacy or G20, or both?

Car mostly sits, since I don't have to drive to work anymore. It's a bit of a shame really, poor battery keeps on dying . Driveway wise I'm almost done, building up a clay hill to the garage now and spreading gravel to the lower portion of the driveway .

Wohoo! Subscribed

That's awesome!!!! Excited to see the build progress!

The design part that I really like of the AVO's and SuperPro's is the concave design, which allows the arm to articulate without binding the bushings. The rings that you mention are a legitimate failure point though, I haven't had issues with mine YET, but I probably only have 20k miles on my Outback (which is used for Highway and off-road duty though). No experience with Group N, they were too expensive for regular rubber design and don't offer caster adding options, thus they were not a consideration for me personally.

Yup that looks pretty similar, if you want to be more correct go with the Metric sizes It's seriously one of my most favorite mods, too bad I waited for lockdown to do it... nowdays I only top off the oil once every 6 months, because I drive the car once a month . I wish I had a skid steer! I collected enough projects and rented it for a week to get it all done. Sadly I had to dig more for my addition after the fact, I ended up just doing that by foot and wheel barrow. Took only a couple months longer

It depends on the bushing location AND what your goals are, if comfort and cost is the primary reason then stick to OEM or OEM style (notice I didn't say longevity). If handling, ease of install, and longevity is your preference AND you don't mind some extra NVH, I would always go with higher cost, better engineered Poly bushings (AVO, SuperPro, Whiteline, etc). I personally hated lower cost poly bushings like ES or Prothanes, they were very rough and would squeak a lot since they don't have grease retention tech that higher cost bushings would. Now I mentioned bushing location earlier, our Subaru's front lower control arm rearward design is trash: the bushing is mounted vertically, while the arm movement is horizontal. To prevent the arm from binding the bushing needs to be very compliant and tends to rip in no time. I believe a well engineered aftermarket bushing is a must for that location (I like AVO's and SuperPro's design the most, it has the least amount of binding even compared to Whiteline). If you go a couple inches forward to the front bushing, that one doesn't try to defy the laws of physics, thus tends to not go bad often. My main reason for replacing this one is because when it does go bad, it's easier to install poly, they are only marginally more expensive, and you can torque them in place without the suspension being loaded. Anyway back to hiding for me, gotta live up to my name .

As you're starting to see, that there are two different skillsets needed here... you can be good at programming, but that doesn't mean you are good at tuning, which I would say is more of a technical Art. Be the change you want to see, we are in a free market, create a competitor OR contribute your skills to the open source market. I've been trying to get into Java personally, so that I could contribute to open source more, but it's tedious and my mind doesn't like Java at all.

I haven't been around for some time, but this might respark my interest in mucking with cars again . I would love to have easier time defining newer cars, like my '12 Outback (which I'm really wanting to turbocharge ), or an Ascent that I wouldn't mind picking up in future and ditching the typical Subaru factory tunes.

It's been a couple years and they are still working just fine, I don't think they would fully come out due to U shape of the bracket. I haven't been under the car in while to see if they are visually worse though.

I've been working from home, which means the car became a 99% leisurely car, since we normally take the Outback for family outings. I did take the Legacy soft-roading/camping, my exhaust sits a bit too low... I tore up and flattened/regraded my backyard with the skid loader, new grass is in place but that also means I can't get to my garage for the time being. So most of the car projects (even oil changes) are at a bit of a stand still heh.' As for Alignment tools, I do use toe plates, no-name brand ones from ebay. As for camber, I just crank it to 11 on both sides, I do have a digital angler gauge, but since I have no flat spots in my yard, accuracy is suspect. I plan on building a more level garage floor with my house addition.

BL/BP is the model names for 2005 to 2009 Legacies, updated the description.

Added! More info on go fast bits ones: https://smyperformance.com/go-fast-bits-underdrive-pulley-kit-w-belts-2008-2014-wrx-2008-2020-sti.html Specs: Stock Crank Pulley : 5.51lb (STI) / 4.63lb (WRX) GFB Crank Pulley : .86lb Stock Power Steering Pulley : .81lb GFB Power Steering Pulley : .37lb Stock Alternator Pulley : .36lb GFB Alternator Pulley : .14lb Alternator Underdrive: 16.5% Power Steering Underdrive: 18% That's really tempting, since the car can be a bit of a dog off boost around town and I freed up a lot of amps by switching to LED's.

Yeah after re-reading your post I realized I cant read

Oh right, the clutch master cylinder hole. For some reason I read that as manuals have an extra hole where auto's use it (auto's usually have cables running form shifter to trans).