Sgt.Gator

Next race is Spokane this coming weekend. I'll be in the ST class sprint races and the ME0 Enduro. Any of ya'll in eastern WA come on out! Next post will have some pics of some minor changes. The 4 Continental (Hoosier) closeout tires are finally worn out. They were the best race tires I've ever used. They lasted thru 6 hours of racing and didn't give up hardly any time as they wore down. I have 4 more new ones I'll save for the fall 4 hour Enduro. At $150 each I wish I'd bought 40 of them!

Before I make a special deal and post it up I want to be sure the solution actually works long term. It's crazy expensive to take product back on returns for small vendors like me. So far so good. So I'll get a package price for the DB set up on my eBay store shortly.

And a modification I wish I'd done years ago, mandatory with a flat bottom. I have lift points and lift bars in 4 places now.

ICSCC Enduro Race at Pacific Raceways Saturday. I took 2nd in class. (After the 700 HP Viper dropped out at 40 minutes). The under-tray worked well, maybe too well. My left front brake duct popped out I think due to the splitter pulling down harder than ever, see pic. I had oil temp issues, at least partly due to the new asphalt at Pacific throwing oily grit up. I had to clean off my race suit after every test session but it didn't occur to me to check the oil cooler inside the trunk..after the race I noticed it was at least 50% blocked off by the grit coming off the rear tires, in thru the NACA ducts and closing up the cooler vanes. Coolant temps were fine, but I still had to run 85% throttle to finish the race. Which was a strategy that worked when the Viper dropped out. I'll probably move the NACA ducting up to the rear quarter window. The fresh asphalt caused another problem, when it got hot the oil came to the surface and a few race cars will never race again. Particularly Turns 3A thru 6. Next races in Spokane, I'll be in ST and ME0. I have to get the oil temps fixed perfect, it has the longest straights in the PacNW! 1... 2... 3.4. .. ..5. ..

I was looking for a checkbook but you FTA!

Rear Diffuser finished. Aero wool tufts and camera setup for test. Next stop Pacific Raceways (Auburn WA) on Friday for Test & Tune. If all goes well then the 1 hour Enduro race on Saturday afternoon.

The revised oil cooler location and flat bottom in progress. The fabrication work is being done at Arcflash in Bend. It's very good work. The 6 speed and CF drive shaft are in. We did some testing at ORP, the oil cooler and tranny worked well. I had some misfires above 5,000RPM which may just be old gas. Once I cycled thru the old gas and replaced with fresh gas the misfires reduced by 95%. The power steering started losing power as I made a turn into a corner, then would kick in again when I throttled up at the apex. I almost went off the track the first time it happened. I;m not sure yet if it's low on fluid, loose belt, or the pump going out. I'll know more today. On a side note: Shralp was there in his killer LGT Wagon. I overheard guys talking in the break room: "Did you see that Outback! It's unreal fast. He was passing the ZL1 and the ZR1!" "Yeah, I saw it, it's so fast. That guy is kicking butt in the Expert Group." "Man, that ZL1 must be pi$$ed off!"

Shipped. In the Dual BEad kit I added two DB56 clamps. The DB48 work on thinner silicone 3" hoses, but if the GS are thicker it would be on the cusp. Let me know which ones you think are best. The other two you can drop off at PIR when you drop by to help me crew my race car this summer. The first race is May 4th, I'll have the STI in the late afternoon Mini Enduro race.

Constant Tension will ship tomorrow! Dual Bead will ship tomorrow Thanks!

I'm sure you mean circumfrance. So it looks like these will be the sizes: Dual Bead: 1.5" X 2 = DB20SS Diameter SAE Decimal 0.69" - 1.63"; SAE Inches 11/16" to 1-5/8"; Millimeters 17.5mm to 41.4mm. OR the DB28SS Diameter SAE Decimal 1.19" - 2.13"; SAE Inches 1-3/16" to 2-1/8"; Millimeters 30.2mm to 54mm. Typically the smaller is better because there isn't so much band tail hanging out. But if the silicone hose is extra thick it would be close. 2 3/8" -2 1/2" X 2 = DB40SS Diameter SAE Decimal 1.94" - 2.88"; SAE Inches 1-15/16" to 2-7/8"; Millimeters 49.2mm to 73mm. 3 1/8" X2 = DB48SS Diameter SAE Decimal 2.44" - 3.38"; SAE Inches 2-7/16" to 3-3/8"; Millimeters 61.9mm to 85.7mm. OR DB56SS Diameter SAE Decimal 2.94" - 3.88"; SAE Inches 2-15/16" to 3-7/8"; Millimeters 74.6mm to 98.9mm. Typically the smaller is better because there isn't so much band tail hanging out. But if the silicone hose is extra thick it would be close. Constant Tension: 1.5" X 2 :TSS20S30 Diameter SAE Decimal 1.37" - 1.88"; SAE Inches 1-3/8" to 1-7/8"; Millimeters 35mm to 48mm. If this won't get sufficiently tight enough I'd have to special order the next size down. 2 3/8- 2 1/2" X 2: TSS36S30 SAE Decimal 1.97" - 2.88"; SAE Inches 1-31/32" to 2-7/8"; Millimeters 50mm to 73mm. 3 1/8" X2 = TSS 48S30 Diameter SAE Decimal 2.75" - 3.63"; SAE Inches 2-3/4" to 3-5/8"; Millimeters 70mm to 92mm. The Prototype Tester Deal I need two volunteers to test a set of Dual Bead and a set of Constant Tension for sizes and function. And be willing to swap the next size up or down if needed. I'll heavily discount each set from the normal price if in return you promise to: 1) Install them very soon! 2) Provide feedback on the fit. We may need to swap sizes up of down to get them optimized. 3) Drive them for a month (hard and a lot!) and provide feedback on how well they work in this application. 4) Return unused clamps at your mailing cost. Once we work thru all the bugs if it looks like they will really be a good upgrade I'll make a kit(s) and put them up on eBay at a reduced cost over buying them individually. I'll also be able to provide a more accurate shipping cost as a set. The Prototype testers price: The Dual Bead set is: $20 includes shipping. The Constant Tension Set is: $48 includes shipping. So who wants a set of Dual Bead and who wants a set of Constant Tension? If you do shoot me an email to colredracing at gmail.com. I'll send you a PayPal invoice, on payment I will ship! Only available to the first two volunteers who send payment. The kits will cost more than these. Thanks! Gator PS: I have two testers!

Hi Ya'll! Thanks for the questions. The constant tension clamps are for hoses/pipes that see large temp changes, especially over short time periods. The spring action keeps the tension tight as the hose and the metal pipe expand and contract with the temp changes. That's why they are great for intercooler pipes and you see them on all the Prodrive built cars. The dual bead clamps are for everything else. They just work better than regular worm clamps. I don't know what the sizes are for the GrimmSpeed IC. If ya'll can measure the outer diameter of the supplied hoses, or even the circumference, I can come up with the correct sizes and make up a discounted kit. Looking at their website I see they use standard worm clamps. You could replace them with my dual bead clamps and it would be an upgrade. They will probably work fine on a daily driver, but for a track /drag/race car I recommend the constant tension clamps. Thanks! Gator

Autocross Club of Central Oregon Saturday, April 27, 2019 Oregon Raceway Park, Grass Valley, OR 10311 Registration ends in 2 months on April 27, 2019 8:00 AM PDT MUST HAVE 40 ENTRY REGISTERED BY MARCH 13, 2019 OR EVENT WILL BE CANCELED! Entry fees will be refunded. Registration Fees: Non-Member Registration - $175 Member Registration- $165 Lunch - $13.00 4 run groups – Rookies (5 max) with Instructors, Novice (25 max), Intermediate (25 max) and Advanced (25 max). 30 minute sessions per group Up to 2 hours of seat time Pre-Registration is required Rain or Shine! Register at motorsportreg.com ACCO Track Day A27 https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/acco-track-day-a27-oregon-raceway-park-autocross-club-of-central-027904

Update on the Winter 2018-2019 Rebuild: The fall endurance race took a toll on the STI. Besides the suspension bolt falling out that lead to a snapped CV axel there are other maintainence ites to address: 1) The StopTech front caliper seals are toast. Rebuild kits on the way. 2) The new front HAWK DTC 70 pads are almost gone. Sort of expected but I thought they'd make a full 8 hour race. Apparently not. 3) The transmission is being rebuilt at ZF Design in Colorado. New shift forks, syncros, sliders. The real expensive parts: Group N DCCD rebuild, and I'm replacing the gears with Spec B ratios. Below I've posted the gear ratio/speed images from the Subagears site. It's very cool for playing with gear ratios. Posted are 2005 STI, 2007 STI and 2007 Spec B. This rebuild has been planned since last spring 2018 when the transmission started grinding a bit. It will be good to have longer gears for road racing. The total cost is almost what a brand new STI transmission would cost. 4) We're fabricating a flat bottom undertray and rear diffuser. 5) The dry sump oil cooler now located in the bottom of the spare wheel well will be moved up and mounted vertically to exhaust out the back of the trunk lid behind the car. 6) Moving the oil cooler opens the possibility of installing a fuel cell into the spare wheel well with larger capacity then the oem tank. FIA rated fuel cells are crazy expensive though. 7) I've debated swapping the turbo out for a ATP 3576 EWG. The swap would be simple, it's the same setup with the EWG and intake I have now on the 3067. I've come to the conclusion I will never race this car in the Thill 25 ST3 class. The problem with my local ICSCC ME0 class, which is my favorite racing, is that there is no HP/Wt ratio in SPO/SPM/SPU. So I'm up against a Viper ACR full race car. However a bigger turbo means more heat to deal with, more brake pads/rotors/ and I will absolutely need at least a 32 gallon fuel cell to complete a 1 hour race without refueling. It would probably be smarter to make the 818R the primary race car and keep the STI for bad weather. Then the HP is not an issue. But the 818R will need a bigger tank too. 8) The borrowed radio system will become a permanent fixture in the car and the wiring is getting all cleaned up. The 818R: 1) The FITech surge tank has developed a leak thru the electrial connection to the internal pump, and they don't sell replacement parts. I'm replacing it with a Radium surge tank. Radium are local to me so I like supporting them anyway. 2) I think I've figured out a solution to legally mount the Kirkey seats with the required back braces. Factory Five Racing really dropped the ball on the design of the seats/harness system. For a company with Racing in their name they did a horrible job on the occupant safety systems. The sub belt mounting tab is in the wrong place, therefore not legal, the harness bars are misaligned both vertically and horizontally, the roll bar on all three 818 variations is too low...and more. Other than the seat mounts and surge tank the car should be ready to go. The stock tank is too small to make a full one hour enduro so I'll have get the Boxkita Racing Team to help with pit stops! Engines: With two Subaru powered race cars I need spare engines! My friends at Retro Racing are converting their 818R to Honda K power so their two Subaru engines are coming to me on consignment. I'll probably rebuild and keep one, and sell the other. If you are interested in either engine let me know. Particularly for you folks in the PacNW. The engines are currently in Vancouver BC, but will be coming to my garage at Oregon Raceway Park soon. Here's what's available. They are sold as a setup, not parted out. At least not yet.: EJ207 ver 5 RA Cosworth pistons, Mahle rods, new stock crank, new rings, water pump mod, new oil pump, new timing belt, no turbo, ceramic coated Perrin up pipe with blanket, Coated Perrin EL header, remote filter boss (10an), stock RA cams and heads, dash 10 head vents, Dry Sump oil pan (-12 fittings), 750cc injectors, dash 6 fuel rails. This engine ate new bearings after 10min on the dyno, but did pull 285whp at the wheels at 12psi EJ207, ver 5 RA stroked to 2.3l OMG pistons and rods, stage 2 cams and valve springs, RA heads (ported), billet dry sump pan (-12 fittings), no turbo, new stainless Perrin up-pipe, no header, new timing belt (less than 3 hours) water pump mod, high volume oil pump (either 12mm Cosworth or 11mm blueprinted) king racing bearings This engine blew a head gasket after a bad fix by the engine builder. Needs to be torn down and cleaned, then put back together. This engine pulled 310whp at 10psi. We also have the full wiring harness to Racepak ECU, including boost control module for one engine. This harness is literally, plug and play. We can include the IQ3 display as well, with the separate data logging module. The SubaruGears website calculator. Be sure to click the Calculate button, then the Auto Shift button. http://www.subarugears.com/Ratios/Ratios.html

Is this a throwback to 2009 or are you serious about this for 2019?

Subaru has re branded their livery and are supporting more forms of motorsports than just rally. "Subaru of America, Inc. today unveiled its 2019 motorsports livery, a return to the brand’s signature blue and gold colors with a modern, visually striking star cluster graphic inspired by the world-beating Subaru World Rally Team cars of the 1990’s and 2000’s. The brand also announced a revision to the structure of its U.S. racing activities, which will now combine stage rally, rallycross, record attempts, off-road racing, and circuit racing under the banner of Subaru Motorsports." More at : http://media.subaru.com/pressrelease/1389/1/subaru-reveals-all-new-blue-gold-racing-livery I like the classic style, although it's a bit overdone. The swoosh and the stars are too big IMHO.

As ya'll know I am an advocate for dry sumping your Subaru engine. But if there was a cheaper way without the added complexity and potential failure points.... Which led me to looking at Saker cars (again). Although they are almost unknown in the US, and don't seem to be taking the world by storm except in the Netherlands, they have been around for 16 years under various owners on different continents and are still making some very fast Subaru powered cars. It looks like they have a new website, at least since the last time I looked at them: http://sakersportscars.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/39saker131112_small.jpg In digging around they claim up to 2.0 G cornering, and they don't use a dry sump or any kind of Accusump/Moroso accumulator. Part of the reason is they are essentially a stock powered EJ22 at 275 HP. But that explains the reliability except for the oiling. I found the Owners Manual, Service Manual, and Parts catalog at their website. They have a very complete parts catalog, down to specific fasteners. They have two items that are unique to their wet sump system. A plate that goes between the block and the sump pan, and the sump pan itself. With the magic of Photoshop I was able to enhance the parts catalog image to see what is inside the pan: I don't know if you have to be a Saker owner to buy these parts. I've emailed them but of course it's Holiday time so I don't expect to hear back from them for awhile. Merry Christmas everyone! PS: And if you're looking for a last minute Christmas present: https://www.belmitdevelopment.com/store.html#!/Piston-oil-squirter-assembly-Subaru-EJ25/p/125146902/category=0

Soon my friend!

I think the pistons were made with additive manufacturing. However they are a design exercise, not for real use yet. Metal printing is coming along, there's a company here in Bend that is one of three in the US that makes rocket engine parts for NASA using 3D metal printing. If you're interested in the organic design CAD process here's company that's on the cutting edge, have a look at some of their automotive examples: https://paramatters.com/ Most of their designs have to made with AM. Like this upright and this motorcycle frame bracket:

Some prototype ultra lite pistons. And finally, tucked way back in a dark corner was a guy much older than me (if you can believe that!) who's been modifying oil pumps for longer than I've been alive, and I spot on his table covered with domestic racing oil pumps these two Subaru oil pump gems. Click on the image to enlarge it, you'll notice they aren't like any other Subaru pumps you've seen before. More on that find soon I hope! I hit the floor for 3 days but between talking with folks and attending the seminars I still didn't cover the entire show floor.

The Can-Jam Subaru that just won the Speedring contest:

I was at the PRI show this last weekend in Indy again. What a great event. A few nuggets: Every time I go by the Honda booth I get sick thinking about how they support racers and Subaru doesn't. The Civic straight back from the Thunderhill 25, still covered in race rubber and the Pirelli World Challenge TCR car:

The ricer comment is off the mark, but understandable if you don't know the car. It's a legit race car. I suppose my car is "street legal" too if I got a license plate. But it's not anything you would ever drive to the store. Here it is (#9) racing against my car (#19), but not when I owned it: And here it's featured in an IRDC poster. I love the image of Godzilla spitting fire out the window on a Miata.

Correct, it's Steve Clinton's old car. I'd sure like to see it racing again in the NW.

2004 Subaru Wrx STI 55K Miles Fully Built/Track Out - $26000 (NE Portland) https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/2004-subaru-wrx-sti-55k-miles/6765888469.html For sale is my prized possession 2004 Subaru Wrx Sti Fully Built and Tracked Out. This car currently has 55K Miles on the body And Very Low Miles on the Motor Build. Motor can handle 600+whp. Unfortunately something came up and I have to sell it. Car motor runs extremely strong and transmission shifts like new Its in Famous World Rally Blue Color. This is a extremely fast car on and off the track. Car has currently over $40,000+ spent on it CAR IS STREET LEGAL. Just need tires for the streets What it currently has Engine Mods: ARP 625+ head studs 11MM ARP Case bolts High Performance Coated Bearings OEM STI Crankshaft IAG Closed Deck Block Manley Turbo Tuff Pistons Manley Turbo Tuff I beam Rods OEM Head castings GSC Stainless racing Valves OEM Valve Lifters BC 2000 high RPM Valve Springs and Titanium Retainers BC 280 Stage 3 Race cams OEM 11mm oil pump modded by HMS OEM Oil Pan Killer B Pick Up OEM Valve Covers Cleanroom Assembled Ready To Run Complete Long Block Engine Blueprinted and Balanced Perrin Rotated Setup Perrin Rotated Downpipe Perrin Rotated Up-Pipe 44mm Tial External Wastegate Custom Dump Pipe PERRIN Unequal Length Headers Garrett GT3582R .62AR Turbo Perrin Cold Air Intake Perrin Hoses Perrin Air/Oil Separator Perrin Front Mount Intercooler Perrin Wrinkle Red Boost Tube Perrin Front Sway Bar HKS Sequential BOV TGV Delete Perrin V2 Fuel Rail 1200cc Injector Perrin Catch Can Exedy Racing Stage 3 Heavy Duty Clutch Exedy LightWeight Flywheel Koyorad Aluminum Radiator Turbo Heat Shield Perrin Radiator Shroud Perrin Alternator Shroud Aftermarket Fuel System Lightweight Pulley And For Sure I'm Missing Some Parts Interior: Gutted Interior Full Godspeed Track Approved Roll Cage (COSTED $8000+) Cobb AccessPort V2 Corbeau FX1 Seat G-force 5 point harness Autometer Sport Comp elec gauges (Oil Press, Oil Temp, Water Temp) Innovate LC-1 AFR gauge Prosport EGT gauge Subaru boost gauge Exterior: Custom Authentic Carbon Fiber Vortex Wing Kakumei Fiberglass Wide-body Fenders Vortex Generator Seibon Carbon Fiber Front Hood Reversed Carbon Fiber Hood Scoop Fiberglass Front Bumper Custom Splitter Suspension/Wheels: Racecomp Engineering Tarmac 2 coilovers (700lbs front and 600lbs rear springs) Whiteline 24mm Sway Bar XXR 527 17X9.75 wheels Nitto NT-01 275/40/17 Track Tires Whiteline End Links Brake System: Coleman Racing Products Custom (13.6" diameter x 1.375" thick rotors) -Wilwood rotor hats - Wilwood modified W6A calipers (to accept 1.375" rotors) - Polymatrix H brake pads -Custom designed caliper mount - custom brake duct kit Brembo Rear Calipers As I said it can currently handle 600+ Wheel. It does need a retune to push that power level cause it's sittin on about 330whp. Retune are only $600-$800 dollars. As I said, I love this car but things come up. Car is great for people who is looking to have a track car or fast car in general Car does have rebuilt title cause of a light accident from a previous owner. It happened when the car was very new and was a low speed crash. No frame damage or anything hard. The car was brand new so now it has a rebuilt title. If the current asking price is too much, I do have another built block I can swap out and switch it for a lower price. Contact me for info If anyone is interested, you can contact me at show contact info Thanks Please do not contact me if you are not a serious buyer or if you do not have cash!!