Brian3676

Hey Dave, question I should have asked a while ago I guess, but randomly poped into my head today, how long do you recommend driving after flashing the new map revisions before doing the logs and sending them to you?

According to my machine shop its because of the Zinc. I was told that you can run the synthetic oil if you add a Zinc additive to it. Also that its not necessary because of the pistons or bearings, but because of the high lift cams and heavy duty springs, it will wear them down. That being said, I have ran the 15w-40 in a ton of built motors and always had good luck with it, but I don't drive any of those motors in the winter anyway. I once built a SR20DET for a guy, spent around 15K on it. He had Supertech springs, and HKS high lift cams, the springs are the stiffest you can buy on the market for the SR. Machine shop warned me to tell him to make sure you use Zinc additive or regular oil. When we finished the motor we used the Rotella 15-40 for brake in, changed it 3 times in the first 1000 miles. He was on his way to have it tuned and stopped by my house just to check everything over, motor looks perfect, checked all the cam/shim clearances, compression, leak down, everything was perfect. He went to the shop and changed the oil before they put it on the dyno, 3rd pull in motor started making weird sounds. Pulled valve cover and every rocker arm and cam lobe was completely shredded down to nothing. He called me and I came to the shop to look at it and could not believe what I saw. Called my machinist he came over, looked at it and in 5 seconds says " I bet he changed the oil to synthetic with no Zinc additive before he put it on the dyno didn't he"

I have been trying to find the low RPM, light throttle hesitation/stumble issue on my car. I have been logging everything I can. OCV's, cylinder roughness, knock ect... It its NOT pulling timing, or getting any knock when it happens, in fact everything logs perfect. The only thing I have noticed is that it does it on closed loop, and clears up just after swapping to open loop, its almost like there is 2 things fighting with each other over who is right. MAF vs O2? But both are brand new..... Sent Dave (cryo) an e mail for suggestions since he is always very helpful. I also have an apt to get the car smoke tested today since when I boost leak test I find 0 leaks.

My starter was sticking on cold mornings. Did this about 3 weeks ago, been great ever since.

Yes I know, and at idle it adds about 1.56, indicating a leak also, positive under vacuum, negative under boost. I am getting really frustrated trying to find it. I have done about 5 boost leak checks, even using some really fancy expensive foaming solution I got from work we use to find leaks. I re set the ECU, and now only have slight correction at idle. I don't under stand why I can re set the ECU and my corrections will be different every time. I am thinking of doing the OCV's. Might do the intake gaskets again though, even though I have no foaming from the solution under pressure, or idle change when starter fluid is sprayed. I am still going to get the MAP revision from you Dave for the downpipe, I just want to have this straightened out first! On a side note, I noticed that my MAF scaling was changed, even though I have a stock intake. Is this common? Or a sign the new maf I got could have been bad?

TYPE OF STUTTER/STUMBLE Increasing throttle, lower RPM hesitation. Really bad when cold, car will struggle to even accelerate. Whats weird is sometimes the AFR A,B,C, D will sometimes change depending on the ECU reset.... MODS Intake: Stock Exhaust: Grimmspeed uppipe, gutted down Fuel: Chevron 92 Turbo: Stock Engine Management: AccessPort V3 Tuner and revision of tune(if you don't mind): Cryo, rev5. MAINTENANCE Sensors changed: MAF, O2, Knock Plugs changed: About 2K ago Coil Packs changed: No OTHER SYMPTOMS Check Engine Light: No Etc: RESULTS What has and hasn't worked for you: Tried many things. Replaced MAF, fuel pump, O2 sensor, knock sensor, throttle body cleaned and new seal, stock intercooler pressure tested and new O rings, Pressure tested system as a whole, tested no leaks. Tested again today actually, and again no leaks. Removed MAP sensor filter. Compression is perfect 145 on all cylinders. Driving yesterday I was pulling -7 on Learning 1D, and when I hit that MAF flow range the car would stutter also. Re set the ECU again and now its back at 0 after driving around. Today left for lunch, and the car hardly ran until it was warmed up, I got like 34 counts of knock, timing pulled like crazy. Re set ECU and drove back to work, perfect, no knock. If something worked, how long has it been working for: Nothing, driving me crazy. Thinking of trying OCV I guess. Ugh this is a money pit.

I just did this the O ring was like $1.60 or something from Subaru.

84K miles. New motor at 82K due to cracked oil pick up. New fuel pump at 82.5K. New MAF at 83K. Radiator went 3 days ago at 84K. Got a Mishimoto radiator next day aired for $300 from Fred Beans and installed that. Car was railed on before I bought it and returned to stock with out me knowing :-(

I also am almost done (at least I think almost) with a tune from Dave. I so far have gotten 2 other e tunes, one from PDX tuning, and one from Infamous tuning, who I would not recommend at all by the way(not Infamous performance!). Dave's tune is by far the most smooth, powerful and clean one out of all 3, and not by just a little, its black and white difference. My other ones were getting high knock, knock learning, fuel corrections, and other things I did not like in my logs. Under WOT they were ok, but still not great, and that's all they cared about. Daves tune is awesome, from driving around the city, cruising down the highway, and having fun under WOT. He has not even given me the final word yet saying its complete and my logs look clean (at least to me they do) Dave has great communication, and gets back to you quickly, usually within 1 day if not faster. I have gotten my base map, and 3 revisions in 1 week. The other tunes took weeks, one even took over a month and a half and that was only for base and 2 revisions. To sum it up, a tune from Cryo is well worth it, specially with the special for $135 he is running right now. Stock or modified, you will notice the difference.

So, by doing this it gives the fuel pump a constant 100% power, or it still does the 33,66,100% power?

I went with the Mahle pistons. There pretty quite even on start up on a cold day. Louder yes slightly. But I think it is a very good compromise between oem and forged pistons. Some people complaine the Mahle postons brake, but I think it's all in the machining and tune.

My pick up failed. 80k. Rebuilt engine with the killer b pickup. Had MAF fail, and fuel pump fail also. Center diff bearings.

Anyone know the torque specs for the bearing that bolts to the rear housing (the 4 Allen socket cap bolts)