Point37

thanks...i know what you mean...the issue is nothing has changed the visual camber issue as shown in the photos above and there are no adjustable parts on this car so i assume the issue is bushings...but to replace all those would cost a good deal of money even if they only replace the bushings and not the actual parts due to all the labor involved...on a 2013 with 215k miles and a severe oil consumption issue (1 qt/~500 miles)...i drive 86 miles round trip for work about 3 times a week (2 days work from home)...i'm not looking to sink a ton of money into this car...i just don't want to eat tires and be able to get it inspected...this car isn't going to last till sept 2027 when my wife's car payments are done...just trying to squeeze out a couple more years if possible...will be just over $2k now and i think that's enough spent for the time being...i'm doing triage at this point...the car owes me nothing at this point and i plan to drive it into the ground...i'm sure i've spent more money on it than it's probably worth at this point upstream o2 sensor ~$50 catalytic converter ~$616 alignment #1 ~$75 tires & 4 tpms sensors ~$578 rear struts ~$252 whitelines ~$359 alignment #2 ~$75

thanks!...within the past month i have been trying to get my car in order to run it for a while longer...my wife just got a new car in sept '21 so i am trying to kick this one down the road a little to try and avoid overlapping car payments but i'm assuming it won't make it cause her car payments are spread over 6 years and i doubt this car has another 6 years in it... anyway i had mechanic #1 (cause my regular mechanic #2 was on vacation) replace my catalytic converter due to a p0420 code...i had already replaced the downstream o2 sensor last year myself and then replaced the upstream o2 sensor this year myself and i didn't want to install a spacer on the downstream just to pass inspection cause it was running poorly...i had mechanic #1 look at the negative camber issue and he told me there was no adjustment back there and to take it to the alignment place...so i then took it to the alignment place and had the alignment done before my tires were replaced...i hadn't done an alignment in a long time but they said it was only 0.5 degrees out of spec...i did not get a printout as i was not available to pick up the car...then i replaced the 2 rear tires but i put the 2 new tires up front and moved the 2 fronts to the rear...then i replaced the rear struts myself...then i had my mechanic #2 look at the negative camber issue and he basically restated what mechanic #1 said... the way i see it i have to either pull the wheel in from the bottom or push the wheel out from the top with replacement adjustable parts...so from what i am reading and what you had said the whitelines lower arm links that you posted will allow me to do this...it does not look like the legacy is listed in the fitment list but the liberty is listed which is the same car just called something else in another country, correct?...also do you know where i can find the torque specs for the inner most bolt?...the torque specs for the 3 other bolts are in the below video 2:33 in...i was just messing around with this when i replaced the struts so i'm not too worried about installing it just want to make sure i get the correct torque specs and i adjust it properly after i install them...i may need to go get another alignment after i do this https://youtu.be/_jR1Wi-OPOQ edit: i just looked at the directions on the whiteline website and it says to torque the inner and outer bolts to 50 ft*lb...the haynes video above says the outer bolt torque spec is 59 ft*lb...i wonder why the difference edit: just ordered them

thanks...i dropped it off with my mechanic last night so hopefully he will be calling me today at some point to let me know what he found

thanks again!...i think i'm going to have my mechanic handle the upper control arms...i think i can handle replacing the ones in your first link if needed as long as i can find a youtube video and some torque specs

thanks again!...much appreciated...i will have to look into these whitelines/spc...i may end up dishing this off to my mechanic

thanks so much for this info...after i got under it while looking around i assumed it would have something to do with some of the bushings...i replaced the rear struts over the weekend which didn't do much but they were due anyway... so i should be looking at parts 20250H and 20250I first and then 20250F?...is that correct? https://parts.metrowestsubaru.com/a/Subaru_2013_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Premium-Sedan/_54106_6029048/REAR-SUSPENSION/B14-201-01.html

this is on a 2013 legacy with 215k miles...the rear tires are worn on the insides badly to the point that i need to replace them which i am planning to do today...i parked the car in the garage on the flat concrete floor and aired up the tires to 35.0 psi exactly using a digital pressure gauge...i then put a level up the the base of the tire and measured how far it was in at the top...i realize there will be some bulge at the base of the tire due to the weight of the vehicle but the rears were excessive...i had an alignment done but that didn't do anything to change this...i had a mechanic look at it and he couldn't figure it out...i am hoping to sort out this camber issue...from what i understand there is no adjustment to be made...i purchased new KYB struts to replace the existing struts which are original...i will probably have a shop do the fronts at some point...right now i just want to make it so i won't need to replace the tires in a few thousand miles...what should i be looking at next?...rear control arms? front drivers front passengers rear drivers rear passengers rear drivers wear rear passengers wear rear passengers

thanks...no cause it's a pain to delete my phone and put another phone in there...spotify is fine...just the apple music app skips

bueller?

2013 legacy...oem cd player head unit...iphone 8 running ios 14.4.1...bluetooth skips/cuts out on apple music app but is ok when i plug into usb...does not skip/cut out on spotify...i usually don't update ios all the time due to the battery drain issues and slower speeds...anyone run into this?...any simple/cheap solutions...not buying another head unit for a car with 208k miles that guzzles oil like a college kid drinks beer...thanks in advance

I have been doing the same as you minus going to the dealer...I have 140,000 on my 2013 right now and do 7,500 mile oil/filter changes...I typically add 2 or 3 quarts within the 7,500 miles when the light pops (1 quart each time the light pops on)...I hate carrying 3 extra quarts of oil in my trunk all the time...at the rate it’s consuming oil I wonder why I even bother changing the oil and just swap out the filter every 7,500 miles and just keep adding oil each time the light pops on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

i have a 2013 with about 87k miles and got the letter in the mail about the oil consumption class action lawsuit...the reimbursements are BS and any testing the dealers do are BS as well...you pay for a test and the dealer will say it's acceptable so why even pay...i drive mostly highway and do 7500 mile oil change intervals and when the low oil level light comes on i put in a half quart and then when it comes on again i put on the other half quart...a couple weeks after the second refill it's usually time for an oil change...never owned a car where i had to keep an extra quart in the trunk knowing full well that i would definitely use it all...hopefully they can fix this defect cause it's enough to make this first subaru my last...i would also like to see a little less wheel and a little more tire if i go with subaru again as well...other than those 2 things and the dumb window weather strip folding down i like the car...i hope to drive this car into the 200k miles range like i did with my 05 mazda 6i...only time will tell if it can hold up