Point37

Not sure what’s wrong with that…only the yellow light is turning on…not the red…I know there are 2 oil lights…they all light up every time I start the car so I don’t know how you can’t know that there aren’t 2 of them That’s what I’m guessing but the battery good in December…I will recheck it tonight with my tester…if it still tests good…I’m going to mess around on YouTube and see if I can figure out if there is a parasitic draw with my multimeter

oil pressure light is red...low oil light is orange/yellow and has the waves under the oil can in the symbol...mine is the low oil light

that's exactly what i do...every other car i've owned i've never had oil consumption issues or had to even check the oil between changes...this issue will factor heavily into my choice for my next car...i want an outback (i really want a hybrid outback) but this issue has me leaning away from subaru towards toyota, honda or mazda since i've had good luck with these brands into high mileage...at the momeny i'm just trying to get by...not trying to sink too much time and money into it...i drive 86 miles a day...it's downing ~1 quart every 250 miles (hopefully a little less now that the PCV valve is changed)...there's still ~4 quarts in there...i don't feel like checking my oil every couple days to top it off...i'll just add it when the light comes on and if it dies, it dies...cause everything about this car is getting to the point where it's annoying me the new development this monday morning is that it wouldn't start...last time i drove it was saturday morning...my wife had already left this morning so i tried to use my jumper box...not enough juice left in the car battery to jump it...had my bro in law come by with his car to jump it and it was not easy to jump so i'm thinking the battery was very drained...the last time i replaced the battery was 3/3/18 at ~121k miles so it's probably due...last time i tested it, it tested ok...maybe i have a parasitic draw or maybe the battery is toast...hopefully it's the battery my jumper box... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015TKUPIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 my battery tester... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z67MMGC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 12/6/22 battery test

thanks fellas...with the rate it's consuming, i'm adding oil quite frequently so i'm not too worried about the interval...i think the manual says 7500 miles as well which is what i've been doing since i got it...i have a garage with a flat floor where i typically check the oil...with 216k on it i'm not going to sink any more money into it if i don't have to as i have spent quite a bit this year with the catalytic converter replacement, struts/springs, 2 new tires, alignment, whitelines, PCV valve...so i'll pass on an oil analysis...probably going to just adjust oil weight, install whitelines and realign and run it till it dies or i have to fix something big where it's not worth it...the oil consumption, bluetooth skipping, having to choose the bluetooth source each time i get in the car, camber/tire wear issues, etc. are getting pretty annoying at this point but i'll deal with them for now

replaced the PCV valve and hose this morning...the old one had oil in it which sounds like it was stuck open...the car has 4 of the symptoms...hopefully it helps...i will be taking the car to a meeting today so i'll find out how it runs and report back... https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-do-a-PCV-valve-test Symptoms of a Stuck Open PCV Valve If the PCV valve gets stuck open, or a system hose gets disconnected or ruptured—producing a vacuum leak—you'll notice one or more of these symptoms. Engine misfires at idle Lean air-fuel mixture Presence of engine oil in PCV valve or hose Increased oil consumption Hard engine start Rough engine idle Possibly black smoke Oil fouled spark plugs

the lighting isn't great in my garage and it was late in the day but i'm nearing a 7500 mile oil change so it's not going to look great anyway...i realize i'm supposed to wait till it cools and the oil drains back down but i don't have that luxury when i'm on the road and the light turns on, so i just dump a quart in...plus it drops so fast that i'm not sure it matters unless i overfill...also according to the info below i am 1.3 quarts low when the light comes on while driving and stays on...i had read this somewhere a while back so i knew it was safe to just dump a quart in when the light pops on https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/low-oil-light.506945/#post-5792255 "According to the manual, that's normal.In my case, and in the case of the OP, the warning light comes one for a few minutes, then goes off. This happens when the oil level is getting close to the LOW mark on the dipstick, but still in the normal range.My '13 manual says:2.5L:Engine not running: Light will come one when approx 2.2 qt (US) remain.Engine running: Light will come on when approx 3.8 qt (US) remain.3.6L:Engine not running: 4 qt (US)Engine running: 5.6 qt (US)---2.5L:Capacity: 5.1 qt (US)Low level on dipstick: Approx 1.1 qt (US) below full, (4 qt). Oil level light should come on at approx 3.8 qt when running.3.6L:Capacity: 6.9 qt (US)Low level on dipstick: Approx 1.1 qt (US) below full, (5.8 qt). Oil level light should come on at approx 5.6 qt when running.---In both cases, the oil level light should come on when oil levels show just below the LOW mark on the dipstick. But I have a feeling that the word "approximately" in all the documentation means to expect a little variation. In my case, even though I'm about 1/4 way above the LOW mark, that's when my oil level light starts to alarm. And the last time I was due for an oil change, I was starting to see that behavior.Rather than get the oil change early, I just added 1/2 qt, the light stopped coming on, and I continued until my next oil change interval."

if we are talking about the sensor that is telling the low oil light to turn on, that seems to be functioning properly as you can see from the photos above...so what is the oil sensor are we talking about and what is its function?

thanks...i was driving yesterday and the oil light popped on again...i decided to just use the 5qt jug of 0w-20 up...i had an empty 1qt 0w-20 bottle in my recycle so i pulled it out and pulled out a measuring cup that i use for oil in the garage and measured out 1qt dumped it into the car and then dumped a quart into the empty bottle to put in my trunk...i'll get into the 10w-40 once i use up all the 0w-20...maybe in the winter i will try out 5w-30 and see how it goes could an oil sensor cause oil to be consumed?...like i said when i checked the oil dipstick after the light turned on after 250 miles it was down to the bottom hole (low oil) on the dipstick before i added oil...i will try to upload the photos i have never serviced my cvt...but i did have to replace the throttle body in the transmission not long ago due to a faulty solenoid...that was a fun repair after light came on before adding 1 qt of oil after adding 1 qt of oil

thanks...great info...i know my car would fail an oil consumption test but i'm way over the mileage so it doesn't matter at this point...i have 1 more 5qt jug of new 0w-20 that i bought a while ago and 1 5qt jug of 10w-40 and 4 1qt bottles of 10w-40 that i just bought...i keep the 1qt bottles in the trunk for when the light comes on...i am going to try and return the 0w-20 jug to walmart without a receipt cause i bought it over 90 days ago (store policy limit for returns)...then i'll do my next oil change with the 10w-40...if they don't let me return it i will use it for my next oil change and just mix in the 10w-40 bottles when the light comes on and i will refill the 1qt 10w-40 bottles with the 5qt of 10w-40...hopefully this slows the issue what sensor would you be talking about?...in one of my previous posts the low oil light came on when it was a monday...put a quart in...250 miles later on the thursday the same week the low oil light came on...right when i got home i checked the dipstick and it was barely above the low oil hole in the dipstick...i dumped in a quart in and it was full...i took photos but it's a pain to upload photos on here...i typically use tapatalk to upload photos onto forums but this forum doesn't work on there anymore thanks...maybe that's the issue with mine...but at this point its not worth diagnosing cause it will cost more than the car is worth what oil weight are you using?...i'm doing mostly highway driving at 80mph so the rpms are higher for most of my driving which probably contributes to the oil consumption i'm guessing

ordered the PCV valve and hose connected to it...my hose doesn't look bad but i can't say i won't tear it when trying to remove it to get the PCV valve out...better safe than sorry

low oil light came on monday...put a quart in...low oil light came on again today (thursday)...250 miles later so i dumped another quart in...switching to 10w-40 to see if i can slow it down a little...next step will be 20w-50...next step will be new car

this says if you pull the pcv valve and it doesn't rattle then it's bad...i'll probably replace anyway...looks pretty simple https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/How-to-do-a-PCV-valve-test

i'm hoping it does...the original lasted 216k miles but i don't recall when the oil consumption issue began...as far as the PCV valve and hose...never replaced...can you enlighten me on what it actually is?...how hard is it to swap out?...cost? edit: found on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdkzUySjlxo do i need the valve and both of these hoses or just part 1AD69A as the video shows? https://parts.metrowestsubaru.com/a/Subaru_2013_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Premium-Sedan/_54102_6023892/EMISSION-CONTROL-PCV-13MY-/B14-082-04.html

necrothread!...update: my 2013 with 216k miles is now consuming at a rate of 1qt/~500miles...just just replaced the catalytic converter after replacing both o2 sensors...i'm still running mobil 1 0w-20 or castrol or whatever walmart has...i drive a lot of highway miles and usually wait till the light comes on which is typically when i'm on the highway...pull off the next exit and just dump a quart in...checking the dipstick before and after it usually looks almost empty and then almost full after adding a quart...i typically use trip B to monitor my oil mileage...going to take ronemus' advice and up my oil weight...i think i'm going to try 10w-40 for the winter and run 20w-50 during the summer cause i'm getting sick of having to stop in bad weather and dump 1 in...i never remember to check it at home and i also don't want to overfill so i just use the oil light as my gauge cause it seems like 1qt makes it right...at this point i almost feel i should just keep adding oil instead of changing it and just swap out the filter every 7500 miles (i use mobil 1 filters)

thanks so much!...this will be quite helpful as this car ages i suspect

thanks but this is for a 2013

i recently got a new iphone SE 2022 (coming from an iphone 8)...i deleted my old bluetooth connection from the car and paired the new phone...now the new phone won't automatically connect when i get in the car...i either have to connect through the bluetooth settings on my phone or i have to hit the menu button when i am on the bluetooth menu on the car head unit and choose the phone...anyone know what is going on with this?

haynes says: rear lateral link-to-knucle bolt/nut: 59ft*lb (80N*m) stabalizer bar link bolt/nut:24ft*lb (33N*m) shock absorber lower mounting bolt/nut: 88ft*lb (120N*m) inner lateral link bolt/nut: does not say whiteline directions says: step 8. Tighten all points and end link bolts to OE torque spec. step 10. Once the desired alignment has been achieved tighten both the inner and outer bolt/nuts to 50ft*lb (68N*m). https://imageapi.partsdb.com.au/api/Image?urlId=mG7Hd8eoI24XYEOFCFNrThEzyGt6yr61oIoZwXolbQsVEicunDRqmbA%2FgoKetDEp silverton from the factory manual says: The inner and outer lateral link nut torque is 80nm/59ft-lbs The swaybar endlink nut torque is 33nm/24.3ft-lb The strut nut torque is 120nm/88.5ft-lb so i guess my question is according to the whiteline directions i tighten everything to OEM torque specs then i adjust the camber on the outer lateral link bolt/nut and then i torque that bolt/nut to 50ft*lb after i already torqued it to 59 ft*lb???

thanks again!...that will be the plan thanks...half the price!...the whitelines are on their way so i guess i'll just run with them

nice!...thanks thanks...they just shipped so i should have them soon...probably get into it next weekend...i plan to follow the torque specs in their directions for the 2 end bolts and the haynes torque specs for the 2 inner bolts

good to know...thanks...unfortunately i already bought the tires i aired up all 4 tires to over 35 psi and let air out till they were all 35.0 psi exactly (cold) using the same digital pressure gauge then i measured from garage floor to top of wheel well arch before i installed the struts/springs...27.5" before and after installation...not sure it needed springs yes they were a package as shown in the link i posted above from rock auto...thanks for the info...roads are crowned in the center to pitch water to the sides...for local roads that is a factor since you only drive with the road pitched to the passengers side...highways you drive on both sides of the crown...i would say 90% of my driving is highway to/from work and i'm in the left lane a good amount of the time at 80mph...i wonder if that had anything to do with it...anyway i guess i'll be giving the replacement control arms a shot

isn't that what i just replaced with the KYB struts with springs (link/photos below)?...or are there other springs?...not complaining just not trying to spend too much money on this car...just trying to get by for a little longer...i typically try to drive cars into 200k+ miles and keep them for 10 years or so...i've only owned 4 cars in my life at 42 years old 87 honda civic (187k miles, hand me down), 99 honda civic (totaled), 05 mazda 6 (240k miles) and 13 subaru legacy (215k miles and counting)...had good luck doing just oil changes, tires and brakes on the 3 previous cars...the subaru not so much...throttle body replacement due to a bad solenoid (done myself)...severe oil consumption issue (not worth remedying at this point, just dump a quart in when the light turns on)...car eats light bulbs (going through the wheel well is a poor design)...now the negative camber issue i don't see any other springs in the parts diagrams in the rear https://parts.metrowestsubaru.com/Subaru_2013_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Premium-Sedan/Suspension-and-Brakes.html i will talk to my mechanic about the springs and maybe cancel the whitelines order for now...i measured 27.5" garage floor to edge of top of wheel well...ride height didn't change after installing the KYBs...i think the level in the photo is 2' long...i just did the rear KYB shocks/struts/springs so those are ok (link below) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12562745&cc=1504361&pt=15174&jsn=830&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1eLc36x7RagAV9qWoBGYzks2kIIGcMG6lE5GS9putP7wmUxgSGze%2FrPdR46WKSRoLyomJamzzG810PitvmOfG4hbeLW2P88Iog4ksleVLx6pdxGJl%2BlbMCfYrOh8WMH%2BBwZOypuLZNlJjGfaHZLJIITueMhhY7%2FfE9vgp5IbWcewp%2FQcjwwfHIbvwQJ8xhoiEKbNhZWvd71koIWACwM1X6eJF3ulGwP3uykj9b5twfV3SNqfKKYu3prXotPUSx8Y0IC0DuJ42l%2BXz7OYT5kiEzQdagUB2FxpcRPd23er2JAZTgxk0WUKWrgB69mw3ZDiI7LryML7de7%2FhwyGuh0zUvptAQBXVqEGro1QSN9uHbUf why is that?...my mechanic said his wife's car was the same way (was not a subaru)

thanks...i know what you mean...the issue is nothing has changed the visual camber issue as shown in the photos above and there are no adjustable parts on this car so i assume the issue is bushings...but to replace all those would cost a good deal of money even if they only replace the bushings and not the actual parts due to all the labor involved...on a 2013 with 215k miles and a severe oil consumption issue (1 qt/~500 miles)...i drive 86 miles round trip for work about 3 times a week (2 days work from home)...i'm not looking to sink a ton of money into this car...i just don't want to eat tires and be able to get it inspected...this car isn't going to last till sept 2027 when my wife's car payments are done...just trying to squeeze out a couple more years if possible...will be just over $2k now and i think that's enough spent for the time being...i'm doing triage at this point...the car owes me nothing at this point and i plan to drive it into the ground...i'm sure i've spent more money on it than it's probably worth at this point upstream o2 sensor ~$50 catalytic converter ~$616 alignment #1 ~$75 tires & 4 tpms sensors ~$578 rear struts ~$252 whitelines ~$359 alignment #2 ~$75

thanks!...within the past month i have been trying to get my car in order to run it for a while longer...my wife just got a new car in sept '21 so i am trying to kick this one down the road a little to try and avoid overlapping car payments but i'm assuming it won't make it cause her car payments are spread over 6 years and i doubt this car has another 6 years in it... anyway i had mechanic #1 (cause my regular mechanic #2 was on vacation) replace my catalytic converter due to a p0420 code...i had already replaced the downstream o2 sensor last year myself and then replaced the upstream o2 sensor this year myself and i didn't want to install a spacer on the downstream just to pass inspection cause it was running poorly...i had mechanic #1 look at the negative camber issue and he told me there was no adjustment back there and to take it to the alignment place...so i then took it to the alignment place and had the alignment done before my tires were replaced...i hadn't done an alignment in a long time but they said it was only 0.5 degrees out of spec...i did not get a printout as i was not available to pick up the car...then i replaced the 2 rear tires but i put the 2 new tires up front and moved the 2 fronts to the rear...then i replaced the rear struts myself...then i had my mechanic #2 look at the negative camber issue and he basically restated what mechanic #1 said... the way i see it i have to either pull the wheel in from the bottom or push the wheel out from the top with replacement adjustable parts...so from what i am reading and what you had said the whitelines lower arm links that you posted will allow me to do this...it does not look like the legacy is listed in the fitment list but the liberty is listed which is the same car just called something else in another country, correct?...also do you know where i can find the torque specs for the inner most bolt?...the torque specs for the 3 other bolts are in the below video 2:33 in...i was just messing around with this when i replaced the struts so i'm not too worried about installing it just want to make sure i get the correct torque specs and i adjust it properly after i install them...i may need to go get another alignment after i do this https://youtu.be/_jR1Wi-OPOQ edit: i just looked at the directions on the whiteline website and it says to torque the inner and outer bolts to 50 ft*lb...the haynes video above says the outer bolt torque spec is 59 ft*lb...i wonder why the difference edit: just ordered them

thanks...i dropped it off with my mechanic last night so hopefully he will be calling me today at some point to let me know what he found