Reloadit

Hey folks, thinking I need a open basket like carrier on my 1999 Outback that has the factory roof rack that does not have any cross members. Does anyone know of any racks that will attach to the outside raised bars without buying some kind of cross members?

If this will require adding cross members what have you found to work best. Just wanting to throw chainsaws, deer and other items on the roof instead of in the car.

My 1999 Outback makes a tick tick tick sound, not so much a knock on cold starts now that it is getting cold here. It goes away after driving a few miles and car reaches operating temperatures.

I can't tell if it is exhaust leaks that close when warm or if it is piston slap until oil reaches everything.

My question is, what oil would be the right oil for a 1999 with 105,000 miles and would I change in the winter months?

Nothing to apologise for. You learned something so it's a win. It's fixed so it's a double win. And you documented it all here for others to learn from so it's a triple win. And the only real cost was a little time from you and the forum.

 

That's great news that it's fixed!

I'm available to help with anyone who stumbles on this thread with similar issues. I did spend an excess of 8 hours researching online the in's in out's of the cruise system on 1999 2.5 automatic transmissions. Based on how little info there is, they must hold up pretty well and obviously EVERY vacuum line connection is the first thing to inspect and most likely the problem if no check engine lights are on and dash cruise button lights up and you hear the telltale clicks when using the cruise control toggle on the steering column.

The lowest vacuum line connecting to the cruise control pump located on the left side near the fender under the hood is probably subjected to more heat and elements hence the reason it failed while all other upper connections remain pristine.

Problem SOLVED. Fellas, I'm the leading, not ONE of the leading but THE leading expert on natural healing (as in the human body healing itself). There just isn't any calling for my expertise in that area anymore because it is now believed that the body cannot self-heal or repair so no one asks me for my help, they automatically turn to natural or pharmaceutical medicine which does nothing to help the body heal itself so I do not get be utilized like I rely on you guys here for help with mechanical issues.

With that being said, you guys are the experts and my lack of expertise/smarts is sometimes embarrassing. When you guys told me to check the vacuum lines, you probably meant ALL of them, not just the ones easy to see and grab and test.

I was preparing to remove the cruise control pump under the hood, first by taking off the hard to see vacuum line and it was cracked and just fell off. $1.27 fix. I did not grab that end from the beginning because all the other easy to reach ends were immaculate and tight with no movement and I assumed the hard to see end would be the same condition. I was wrong. I feel I wasted a lot of you folks' time.

You have walked me through a half a dozen repairs on this sight and I hope you will all forgive me for not being thorough with your initial premium support and advice.

With this repair, everything is working great and fine but I know I am on borrowed time on the timing belt and will be replacing the CV joints soon. I will do the CV joints myself, no problem, have done them on many subies. I will have the dealer do the timing belts.

I hope I can rely on your help when something else goes out that is not easy for me to google and correct. I promise I will be more diligent on following precise directions. Thanks again for all your help, you guys did solve the problem.

Our speedo and tach are electric, so no calbes there. Hard say what the noise could be. Perhaps CV or wheel bearing if it has to do with the car movement rather than engine speed.

 

I would try the part under the hood first.

 

As to leaks, unfortunately pretty much everything that can leak on our car will do it in a way that it gets on the exhaust and smells. It's common for the steering pump to leak. That goes back on top of the 1-3 bank, down the back and onto the exhaust. If the high pressure hose for steering leaks it goes on the exhaust. If the front main or cam seals leak it goes down the front of the head and onto the exhaust or back along the pan and onto the exhaust. You get it...

I was kind of thinking the actuator and cable would be the easiest and would start there. Changing the actuator and the control unit won't cost me any money upfront so why not, just a little of my time. Funny how rare the two parts are online. If I get a fix, I guess I will hit the junk yards and try to find one to remove myself. This suggests these parts don't go out much if no one is making aftermarket replacements.

Thanks for all your help doublechaz.

Speed sensor replacement isn't real hard, but I think you would have other symptoms if they were actually bad. I think the codes came from actually starting the engine with the greens connected. Our generation of ECUs are pretty good about making codes show when needed and also in not making false codes. So if you normally aren't getting codes then there are probably no legit codes.

 

The one exception to that is O2 sensors can be just a little not good before they are bad. Bad would throw a code. Not as good as you would hope they would be will usually not throw a code, but may be detected by slightly reduced power, slightly worse idle smoothness, or reduced gas mileage. Most people wouldn't even notice the first two and it seems most people don't calculate their mileage at every fill up so they wouldn't notice that either.

I calculate my millage carefully. Always have. Once I disconnected the green connectors, the dash is free of lights again.

I'm trying to determine what parts I want to trade from my 97 to my 99, the actuator and cable first or the control unit under the dash. I do hear a mild "tick tick tick" sound when I first start to drive the car at low speeds that makes me think of either a speed or tack cable. I'm telling myself it is not the engine or rods. I see no issue with the gauges but the sound I hear is there and I don't hear it all the time, usually when cold.

I'm going to drive my 97 with a passenger and have them listen around the glove box when working the cruise to see if the control unit makes any sounds when engaging or disengaging the cruise and then compare the 99.

The head gaskets have been replaced already by the previous owner, it still does not drip to the ground but I do occasionally smell burning oil so I know there are some small leaks somewhere.

I suspect that it is the actuator or the control unit. I think both those can go out without throwing codes. Vacuum lines look pristine. Some of the newer subarus will lose cruise control if you drive with the gas cap off but that apparently throws codes.

I'm going to figure it out one way or the other.

https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts-list/1999-subaru-outback/body_electronics/cruise_control_equipment.html?Filter=(2=EJ25D;3=F4WD;4=AT)

It appears this is the total cruise control unit in my car. Seems to be no transmission selector switch. I have been googling for 7 hours and read a dozen threads and it seems like the folks that have had my issue never resolved them on the threads.

I could pull the cruise control unit off my 97, the unit behind the glove box and trade it out and see. They look like the same actuators too.

After researching more on the green connectors, they were a steady flash that is supposed to mean nothing is detected by that diagnostic test.

I still wonder if any of the codes it threw were legit because some of the sensors it threw are believed to stop cruise from working. The threads I have been reading haven't dove much into replacing speed sensors and such.

I'm still working on it.

There are green connectors by the steering column underneath and in the passenger kick panel. These are normally not connected. When you connect them and key in run but not running the computer goes into a special test mode where it turns lots of things off and on to help you trace problems. They are not for connection during normal use.

 

I'm not sure what would happen if you ran the engine with those connected, but a bunch of codes could be one outcome.

 

I like the idea that there may be a problem with the cable to the cruise. The plastic outer part needs to be a steady length. If it squishes shorter when tension is on the steel inner part that can certainly cause a problem.

 

The Vehicle Speed Sensor would be most likely to be a problem for cruise, but typically on an auto if VSS1 or VSS2 is out it would either read funny on the dash or have trouble shifting. I forget which is which, but one VSS is for the speedo, and the other is for the trans computer.

 

Also, if your O2s and TPS were bad it wouldn't drive like a champ, although it might run alright you would likely be down on power and/or getting terrible mileage.

OK, that's good to know. I will look into more on the green connectors and using them to diagnose things. I have been driving it to home and back to work. I think I have a picture of the cable uploaded. It seems to have the spiral spring like wire housing for the cable that is under the plastic sheath. I'm not sure if the plastic slipping will affect the cable behavior but will look deep into that.

Thanks.

MADE A HUGE DISCOVERY, seems the dealership I purchased my car from unplugged the green connector under the steering wheel that is to the "check engine" light, the one that flashes. A "check engine" light that did not flash came on right as I drove it off the lot telling me the knock sensor was bad, I replaced that and no more steady check engine light. Apparently the green connector is to a different diagnostic system and it shows a mess.

I stopped in to AutoZone this morning to see if there was a hidden code with no "check engine" light and there wasn't. But after finding the green connector for the OTHER check engine system light it threw 10 codes, most of which would cause the cruise to not work.

Codes are as follows

P 0130 x 2 bank 1, oxygen sensor

P 0136 Bad Oxygen Sensor

P 0500 x 2 Circuit Malfunction Speed sensor

P 1100 Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction

P 1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input

P 1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range

P 1121 Neutral Position Switch Circuit

P 1540 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction

I assume if I replace these in a certain order, some of these codes will be repaired by the part replacement. I have adjusted the acceleration cable and cruise cable at the throttle body but only to take out some slack nothing that changed idle or performance at all.

I think it is safe to say fixing these will fix my cruise control.

Anyone have an opinion of what order to fix/replace parts to fix only that which is broke?

I'm kind of ticked off and kind of relieved at the same time. Now I can fix things and that is nice but kind of ticked at the dealer who clearly disconnected the diagnostics to sell the car. I know the little old lady who owned it and traded it in didn't disconnect it. Anyways, I can get her fixed now and she still runs like a champ.

MADE A HUGE DISCOVERY, seems the dealership I purchased my car from unplugged the green connector under the steering wheel that is to the "check engine" light, the one that flashes. A "check engine" light that did not flash came on right as I drove it off the lot telling me the knock sensor was bad, I replaced that and no more steady check engine light. Apparently the green connector is to a different diagnostic system and it shows a mess.

I stopped in to AutoZone this morning to see if there was a hidden code with no "check engine" light and there wasn't. But after finding the green connector for the OTHER check engine system light it threw 10 codes, most of which would cause the cruise to not work.

Codes are as follows

P 0130 x 2 bank 1, oxygen sensor

P 0136 Bad Oxygen Sensor

P 0500 x 2 Circuit Malfunction Speed sensor

P 1100 Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction

P 1101 Neutral Position Switch Circuit High Input

P 1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range

P 1121 Neutral Position Switch Circuit

P 1540 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction

I assume if I replace these in a certain order, some of these codes will be repaired by the part replacement. I have adjusted the acceleration cable and cruise cable at the throttle body but only to take out some slack nothing that changed idle or performance at all.

I think it is safe to say fixing these will fix my cruise control.

Anyone have an opinion of what order to fix/replace parts to fix only that which is broke?

I'm kind of ticked off and kind of relieved at the same time. Now I can fix things and that is nice but kind of ticked at the dealer who clearly disconnected the diagnostics to sell the car. I know the little old lady who owned it and traded it in didn't disconnect it. Anyways, I can get her fixed now and she still runs like a champ.

Does your system have a cable from the throttle body going to a cruise control unit mounted up by the cowl that then has a vacuum line? If so I would check that cable, but more than that I would, engine off, use a hand vacuum pump to see if the cruise control unit will maintain a vacuum.

It does, all the vacuum lines look great but the cable has the rubber cover slipping off right at the throttle body. I could go to AutoZone and borrow a vacuum tester and maybe they can show me how to hook it up to test the cruise. I wonder if I have too much slack in the cable?

I would upload some photos but it isn't letting me at the moment.

As I play around and research, I am finding that when I turn the dash cruise button on and then set cruise I get the "click" and sometimes feel a brief surge as if it is trying to engage but does not. Once I have toggled the "set" and it does not engage I can tap the brake and I hear the switch that would otherwise turn the "cruise" off. To me this seems like the controls are working, the car just isn't engaging the cruise.

Again, this is an automatic transmission. Horn honks. Brake has the blue plastic piece that seems to properly control the brake switch and all the brake lights work fine. I see no issues with vacuum lines but haven't found a good diagram of what my car has in the way of vacuum lines associated with the cruise control.

I did clean the control toggle on the steering column with electrical cleaner yesterday and this morning when the car was pretty cold, bordering on below freezing it was now sticky making me think I might need some kind of electrical lube now. Any suggestions on that?

I know other people have had the same problems because I have read many stories and it always seems the ones about automatic transmission seem unsolved.

Fellas, I have a 1999 Outback with auto transmission. My dash cruise switch comes on when pushed, I hear a slight click when "set cruise" is pressed on the steering column but does not engage.

It sounds like those with manual transmissions find the plastic grommet on the clutch missing and replace that for an easy fix. I have the switch on my brake and the plastic piece is still in place and good.

Anyone have any luck with 2.5 auto transmissions?

The light comes on the button on the dash by the rear window defog and when I use the steering wheel controls, I hear it click like it is trying to work. I have no check engine lights on.

I have read all kinds of stuff on this issue but no one seems to report fixed.

I did just clean the control switch with electric cleaner as it seemed to have a lot of goo and dust but to no avail.

I have seen that the throttle body cable slop can cause issues and I took out some slack but did not get aggressive there. I will do some more research on setting them proper as it has been reported to be an issue with cruise.

I've read that sometimes there are issues with vacuum lines but some say there aren't any on the 99's.

No check engine lights to indicate bad sensors.

I'm trying to work out all the bugs in this sweet ride. Other than the cruise now, I am having issue with the vent controls on heater/ac selection. It sticks and doesn't go from one vent setting to the other easily. I did eventually get it to go from front vent to defrost by hitting the defrost button a bunch of times when I was desperate for defrost. I see people cleaning the buttons and am wondering about using electric cleaner?

I just put the car through the test. Put 325 miles on it hunting in the mountains of Idaho. No animals were harmed. It performed like a champion. I will be getting the timing belt kit done soon and the CV joints.

wtdash, there are some funny sounds from the dash and my cruise control is not working. I hear the "relay" or switching sounds like it is trying to engage the cruise control but nothing. I will be checking vacuum lines as soon as I can find out were they are.

I will be checking the coolant for bubbles and sings of gasket problems. The head gaskets have been replaced by our local dealer in I think 2006. I had the dealer look up the work associated with the vin.

It was sure fun to drive and I bounced very slowly up many a steep bumpy road and so far no worse for wear.

The heater did struggle going to defrost but when I was desperate for it, after tapping the defrost about 10 times it finally engaged and then went easily to foot and defrost were I will leave it until I get that figured out.

It is waaaaaaaaaaaay overdue on that timing belt job. That's a every 105,000 miles OR 105 months, whichever comes first from Subaru.

 

This is an interference engine. Err on the side of caution unless you really wanna deal with valves and pistons having a mosh pit.

 

Replace the belt and all components. The belt is not usually the failure point, it's often an idler that seizes and snaps the belt. Recommend Aisin kit for this job.

Is this the kit you suggest? That is the water pump too in the kit right?

https://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TKT-026-Engine-Timing-Renewed/dp/B07SGJ86GP/ref=asc_df_B07SGJ86GP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=380023036458&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15932371885977666082&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033246&hvtargid=pla-1008201254112&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=79073044298&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=380023036458&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15932371885977666082&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033246&hvtargid=pla-1008201254112

It is waaaaaaaaaaaay overdue on that timing belt job. That's a every 105,000 miles OR 105 months, whichever comes first from Subaru.

 

This is an interference engine. Err on the side of caution unless you really wanna deal with valves and pistons having a mosh pit.

 

Replace the belt and all components. The belt is not usually the failure point, it's often an idler that seizes and snaps the belt. Recommend Aisin kit for this job.

Dang, I was planing on taking it to the mountains in a few days but might have to use other transportation. There doesn't seem to be any squealing or grinding sounds from the idler. It is still purring like a new car.

I'm replacing the starter today. It's been tricky to start for the past few days now that it is getting almost to freezing at night. Takes a few turns to get it to engage the starter but starts fine throughout the day after temps warm up. Putting a Napa lifetime warranty starter in.

Water and grease don't mix. I just wipe the old grease out as much as I can, I don't use any cleaners just in case I can't remove it all and then the cleaner mixes with the grease.

 

What sea foam product did you put in the standard universal or the hydra trans tune? either way do not drive more than 50 miles. Dump soon.+

 

for 16in wheels it's 32F/30R cold pressure.

I used the Trans Tune Seafoam. When you say dump, are you saying replace the fluid only or replace the filter too? I'm going to replace both front axles asap. The CV joint is still working fine with the tore up boot but I will be getting it dusty so I don't expect it to be fine for long. Just need to pick my battles after the large purchase price I paid for this car.

My tires are 205 70-R15.

Hey Reloadit!

If the car is running good you should be in the clear, headgaskets were the killers on these cars and I don't think you will run into that if you run into that if you just drive her easy. To save yourself the hastle of repacking grease and redoing CV boots, I would recommend replacing the whole axle. I ran into that exact issue on my previous 05 OB 3.0R. Grease from the inner CVs was leaking onto the cats causing a burning. I replaced both of the axles as a whole. It seems pricy at first but usually NAPA can give you a decent price. Just make sure you bring back your cores! However if you are pressed for paper, you can totally just do the boots, but I would do both sides to make life easier down the road.

For tires, heres kinda my top picks.

1. General Grabber AT2

I had these on my 2005 Outback and they killed it in the snow and were pretty easy going. They were also silent and rode great on the road.

2. Yokohama Avid series

Not very off-roady but still great in the snow,dirt and anything you throw at them.

3. Bridgestone Blizzak

Yes, it's a winter tire but they do great on dirt from what people have told me, pretty affordable too. Also can't go wrong with a bridgestone dualer.

(coming from a tire tech)

As for the tire pressure, I would run maybe 33-34 during the colder months but during the summer anywhere from 31-32 is gonna be your best bet!

Cheers!

Thank you. I will replace both axles. It's starting to fail to engage the starter now too so I think I will replace the starter first. I could replace the contacts and plunger but feel it will be smarter to replace the who thing.

It's got 105,000 and the original timing belt and was driven my a little old lady so I am hoping I can drive like a little old lady and get through a year before replacing the timing belt and components and water pump. Any thoughts on that? I would hate to damage the car by allowing an issue with the timing belt but it is an expense and job I won't want to do myself and my wife will want to slap me for putting that kind of money into it so soon after the purchase.

Thanks for the tire recommendations. I am going to run about 20K miles on the Toyo Eclipses and then replace them.

I would like to put in a bluetooth hands free phone radio that will slip in without a problem. It is illegal for us to hold a phone in our hands for any reason here. If you have any opinion on such an operation, I would be grateful there too. Don't need CD or DVD, just radio and bluetooth phone calling. Again, thanks for the advice, it will be applied.

CV boot can be replaced and repacked with grease. I'd only do this if it's a fresh tear and the axle isn't making any noise. I used be able to find used ones for 25$ but it's hard to find good ones anymore.

 

 

I can do plugs is about 30 mins. get a once piece magnetic gear wrench spark plug socket or a locking 6in extension. The plugs have probably not been changed in a while. I'd grab a set of NGK plug wires for 40$ on ebay.

 

 

I'd go on tirerack and look up all terrain/ATS tires and what's around your price point.

 

 

Change all the fluids, do oil changes every 2.5k miles at least. It's a 20 year old car everything is going to need to be replaced eventually.

I'm looking at the Dorman Split CV boots for around $25. It looks like the best way to use them is to leave the old straps on and just cut the old rubber off. I'm thinking I will give myself a cushion and wait till the new boot or the other boot gives and then replace the joint, bearings and hubs on both the driver and passenger side. Right now there is no noise coming from the joint and I doubt it has been off road with the tear. I was thinking last night if I should try to pressure wash all the old grease out of the joint and then drive it on pavement to dry well before putting the new boot on?

I did change the oil even though it still had 2000 miles to go on the last oil change and had 16 ounces of Hot Shot Stiction added to it. Running Sea Foam in the fuel and transmission. I haven't changed the tranny fluid, just extracted some and added the Sea Foam tranny product.

When I make a recovery from spending $1200 more than book value for this car, I will sink some more into it at one time. I'm in the process of trying to reach the old owner to see when the Timing Belt was last changed of if ever changed.

I did find it is very easy to tighten up the rattling windows.

The last two mornings, the car wouldn't turn over on the first try. I believe the colder mornings are making something shrink making a bad connection so will be going over grounds and cables today to see if I can find something lose. After a couple turns of the key, the starter engages and she fires right up. I have had this happen to my 97 but can't remember what it was.

When I bought the car, the tire pressure was low and it sure absorbed bumps better. My tire store says to run 35lbs and put that much in and now it is extremely bumpy. I'm thinking of running at the tires lower range, I assume it will wear out the tires faster but feel it might prevent my car from bouncing down the road and prevent jarring everything lose? Any opinion on tire pressures?

It is confirmed, windows that rattle with the window controls flat on the panels NOT the arm rests is easy to do. There are two sliding fuzzy brackets that can be loosened with a 10mm bolt and then push the bracket towards the window with the window rolled up and while holding firm tighten back down. I went ahead and took the bolts out and put some blue loctite and put them back in and tightened them down good.

I did three doors in 30 minutes. This was for a 1999 Outback with the window control panel on the door panel itself, not on the armrest. I say this because all the video's on YouTube show doors with the window controls on the rest so no one has made a video on these.

The driver door has two screws to remove to get the panel off and one plastic plug. There is a phillips head screw at the door opening lever behind a plastic cover you have to remove another phillips head screw under the hand grab to close the door under a plastic cover and the plastic snap plug is on the right side midway that pops out with a flat head screw driver.

Once those are all removed, just start at one of the bottom corners and start popping the fixed plugs out pulling towards you and work them all out and then lift up allowing the door handle to slide out. You can unplug the two window controls and remove the panel completely or just hold it with your knee while you adjust the 10mm bolts right at the top of the door holding the window in place. I would pull the bolts and loctite them because they are easy to pull and put back in even while holding the panel.

The rear windows just have the two screws to remove, the handle screw and the door closing grab screw. All the panels require a little fiddling to get them back into place but nothing hard. A very easy fix for those rattling windows and it is likely the case with most subaru windows, with different screws to get to the door panel off.