legacybt

Thanks for the opinions!

Classing is very much a non-consideration. I'm just building a fun-to-drive wagon that won't be an absolute slug out on the course.

I like the idea of the reliable power on a ej207, but combined with my LWFW and the super hilly area I live in, I couldn't take the hit in low-down torque. I'm sticking to a 2.5L block.

At this point I'm looking into the cheapest route I can for reliable power. It seems to me like the Heuberger OEM shortblock route is most likely, but it still ends up being around $4000 to do properly (remember, I'm in Canada - anything I buy has currency conversion and import tax).

I'll update this as decisions are made - until then I'm going to drive the snot out of it and enjoy it for what I built it for.

Little update looking for a bit of advice.

I've been E-tuning the car and it's not able to run much timing at all. I did a boost leak check with a medium-warm engine, and air was flowing like crazy out the oil filler cap. I'm going to be doing a full leakdown test, but this could be turning into an engine rebuild/swap thread soon....

Opinion time:

For the same price, would you

a) buy a OEM shortblock, do the usual replacement/head machining yada yada yada

b) buy a built, sleeved, freshly assembled, ported stroker long block and put the VF52 & OEM LGT gear back on.

I don't have lofty power goals (happy around an eventual 300whp) and I want reliability. I just bought an apartment and have monthly payments to hit. The appeal of dropping in a built block with way less labour than taking the OEM short block route is definitely there... Does anyone care to chime in?

Thanks for the information!

My hatch stopped locking, and when I popped the accordion boot off and pulled on the wires, sure enough there were 4 that separated. After splicing, my hatch locks

, license plate lights works, and my Cyclops (3rd brake light) works again!

I found this post from another thread especially handy: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2533502&postcount=6

Quick Update

I've been popping back and forth from the shop while they try to get everything straight. The subie's been in three times and it still pulls to the right - might be time to head out to another shop.

Anyway, I touched up a couple photos I took when it was completed. I'll add more as they come.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190849&stc=1&d=1409291644

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190850&stc=1&d=1409291649

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190851&stc=1&d=1409291649

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190852&stc=1&d=1409291649

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190853&stc=1&d=1409291982

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190854&stc=1&d=1409291649

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190855&stc=1&d=1409291649

All the huge money into building this thing and getting it dyno tuned is too expensive?

It's always been on a budget , and I never did enough research into dyno tuning vs e-tuning. For my needs, the e-tune route will hold me over for a while, and when the budget allows I'll head down to Washington for a dyno tune. I've talked to a few shops around here and they generally suggest going south of the border.

Sorry for the lack of updates, the shop is having trouble getting my rear alignment in spec. Rear toe was at -6 degrees (no, not -0.6) when I rolled in, and they can only get it as far as -3.

We're trying to figure out what the problem is - has anyone had trouble with the JDM STi pillowball links??

Installation error is definitely possible, though I don't think I stuck any washers between the hubs and trailing arms... I'd really prefer not to go with the Whiteline adjustable arms if I have the option. The winter destroyed the powder coat on my sway bars in 6 months (great product, just apparently not suited for this climate).

Why not get it dyno tuned.

Cost. There are one or two decently reputable shops in town, but the difference it would make isn't worth it to me (if anyone disagrees, please chime in - I'd like to know if I'm making a wrong decision). Nobody specialises in subaru here, now that Rocket Rally has closed its doors to the public.

The car is driving well, I'm hoping to get my first log in this weekend and start the tuning process. I'm getting an alignment tomorrow, and have been doing a little prep work:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=190294&stc=1&d=1408633985

post your dyno if you do that

There are no plans to get the car on a dyno, but a local shop does host awd dyno days from time to time so I might end up with some numbers someday. I think I'll be just driving and enjoying this thing for a while after that long a build.

IT DRIVES!!

Finally got it done last night - it started up first time, and everything seems to be working as it should!

After bedding in the brakes (which are super solid and easy to modulate), I drove it around for a while on the twisties with my eyeballed alignment. Even on the initial tune, the car feels extremely fast and much smoother than stock. I can't wait until I can shift over 4000 RPM - breaking in the new clutch is a real test of patience.

The handling is super crisp, and the car changes direction like it never has before. The turn-in is incredible, but I haven't had a safe chance to test how neutral the car is at the limit. I'm guessing I'll be upgrading to 500# rear springs at some point.

A fuel line popped off by the intake manifold on one of the pulls - I'm not sure if it was installed incorrectly or of the quick connect fitting is damaged. I guess I'll find out soon enough. No fire, just a little scare.

I can't wait to get my alignment and start the tuning process with Bren! Photos to follow sometime in the coming week.

Nice. they must have left the r180 input piece the spec b is r160 input.

Yeah that makes sense. It looks like the driveshaft was a modified 04-05 sti unit.

Progress!

Hopped across the border yesterday and picked up my driveshaft (thanks nightmaresmk!) and two wiring harnesses that were missing from my transmission.

This is the length of the three driveshafts now in my possession. Stock 5mt on the left, spec b in the middle, and "custom" on the right. The rears and the carrier bearings are all lined up.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=189296&stc=1&d=1407424705

Something doesn't look stock here...

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=189297&stc=1&d=1407424705

Check out that custom work on the right. The 6spd swap was done before the recipe was well known, so the shop must have fabbed up something special. It weighs at least 10 lbs more than the stocker too.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=189298&stc=1&d=1407424705

Bolted up the new spec B unit and the length was correct, but they changed the flange on the R180 to fit the custom driveshaft! Or the other way around.. Regardless, the bolt pattern was too large for the subaru unit.

Some quality time with a dremel and file was in order.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=189299&stc=1&d=1407424707

Finally got it bolted up!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=189300&stc=1&d=1407424707

Tonight it's time to get the rest of the bits and pieces on!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=189301&stc=1&d=1407424707

My drivetrain came out of this little guy:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2523622

The 6-speed transmission was installed on another Legacy GT with the driveshaft pictured. I don't know why it doesn't fit properly on mine, unless it was installed in the same way on the other car.

Regardless, PM on its way.

Mini Update

The missing shifter bushing and a new boot, along with a few remaining parts finally came in this weekend. I got to work uninstalling, disassembling, reassembling and reinstalling the shifter. It's not superb, but the play is at least tolerable now. Once that was done, I installed the driveshaft that came with the swap......

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=188564&stc=1&d=1406560317

Something looks wrong here, doesn't it.... Does anyone have input as to why the driveshaft seems 2" too short?

Does an early/late 2005 chassis make a difference?

I'm not sure if those welds next to the CV are OEM, and since this driveshaft came off an originally 5EAT car I'm suspicious it was cut and re-welded at a too-short length.

Quick Update after two late nights

Installed knuckles, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, axles, Coilovers, installed plastidipped black intake box, master cylinder brace, bled clutch and brakes, installed new hatch Struts, cut out the rear carpet for strut adjustment, wrapped the Downpipe, and purchased a basemap from Brentuning. Shifter is installed but missing the oem front shifter bushing thru bolt (the one I'm using has a smaller shank diameter), so it has a lot of play that needs to be addressed.

Getting close! Pictures to follow when everything is installed.

Nice build!

 

 

 

God I'd love to let that GTR rip!

, what GTR? You mean the GT3? Either way I'd love to drive both a GTR and/or a GT3

There's an Ultima GTR hidden behind my whale.

Nice build!

 

God I'd love to let that GTR rip!

Thanks! Haha me too, it must be bonkers.

Installed the sti subframe bracing while waiting on parts

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186835&stc=1&d=1404503656

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186833&stc=1&d=1404503187

Annnd a pic of the broken knuckle

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186834&stc=1&d=1404503187

Word to the wise - an air chisel shouldn't be used to open up the ball joint. Use a slide hammer.

you may want to pick up the KTA124 rear arm kit from whiteline. you may be able to get better fitment via more camber and not have to roll the fender as much. PLus if you decaide to run wider wheels and ties later, you are gonna want that extra adjustability to make things fit.

 

i never liked NT-01's as and autox tire, but if you got them cheap, they'll do.

I looked at the rear arm kit, and it may happen down the road. Unfortunately this car is driven all winter to and from the ski hill, and I want to minimise the amount of poly bushings on the car so I don't have to regrease periodically. It also sees rain about 60% of the time, because Raincouver. There is more camber than the picture lets on with the kca399 bushing (while poly,at least it's accessible).

Yep I got the Nittos cheap, 1/3 of the end cost of the Star Specs I was going to run.

wheel/tire specs if i missed it?

Enkei ES Tarmac

17x8 +45 offset

Tires are Nitto NT-01 235/40r17

Funny thing with that set of wheels. I bought three of them for dirt cheap not knowing how rare they were. I got home and checked the Google, realising my plight.

I spent a few hours digging and found an old fs thread on Nasioc - I guess it's as hard to sell one rare wheel as it is to find one. Sent a message, got a reply and a fair price, and now I have a dreamy complete set of "wightweight" wheels.

Quick Update after a busy weekend

I reassembled the transfer case and installed the new transmission.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186737&stc=1&d=1404366860

Installed the rear suspension arms and these new-to-me goodies:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186738&stc=1&d=1404366860

Did a quick test fit of the new wheels - definitely going to need a roll in the rear

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186739&stc=1&d=1404366860

A few other items were installed that aren't pictured - Cobb intake, Redline Shift Boot, Rear Sway

I picked up a Whiteline ALK on the weekend as well, and struggled to get the ball joints out of the steering knuckles. Ended up taking an air chisel to the slot and cracking the knuckle

We ended up welding two nuts together to adapt the ball joint threads to a slide hammer - that did the trick and popped the rusty guy out. Too little to late though.

New knuckles are on order, and the build is on hold until those and a few miscellaneous bolts come in.

You gotta like where this is going.

I'll take pictures after it's all said and done. They'll be super anticlimactic.

Quick update before a serious weekend of wrenching

I got me some tires (nitto nt-01)!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186341&stc=1&d=1403892876

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186340&stc=1&d=1403892876

Installed rear diff inserts and JDM sti lateral links, along with rear brakes

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186342&stc=1&d=1403892876

Got the exedy lightweight flywheel and oem sti clutch installed

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=186343&stc=1&d=1403892876

I also finished installing transfer case bearings in the transmission, it's ready to drop in this weekend!

if you have $1600 US lying around, I have 235/40/17 BFG R1 mounted on Enkei PF01 17x8 that fit perfectly. Stick like nothing you've ever used.

Haha I was eyeing those a while back. I'm on the lookout for some 18" rims without rubber, and 17" streetable auto-x rubber (a la starspecs) without rims.