legacybt

Excited for the results of that setup! What sort of painting did you do to make your intake manifold so purty?

No, only the 2002-2007 6 speed transmissions have internal oil pumps. 2008+ went to a splash system.

http://i.imgur.com/vg0dVPd.jpg

Finally got around to taking some photos http://i.imgur.com/7HC6TCX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/vg0dVPd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/M5gOPHv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FjWmce9.jpg

Everyone wants in on the first page action. http://i.imgur.com/7HC6TCX.jpg http://i.imgur.com/vg0dVPd.jpg http://i.imgur.com/M5gOPHv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/FjWmce9.jpg

Yep, I updated the post to make that more clear.

Info/updates I'd like to suggest for the front page. I found the Spec B diff/trans recipes to be confusing on the first page. All 6mt Spec B Transmissions have a 1.1:1 transfer section, and share the 3.54:1 rear Torsen differential assembly with the 2007+ wrx sti (with the smaller input flange). There is no 3.9:1 rear differential for the 07-09 Spec B. This can be confirmed using part number 38410AA140 (internal diff assy). These are a few parts shared with the GR & VA (2008+) Impreza chassis, unclear in other posts 08+ STi have a shift linkage which fits the Legacy GT chassis Spec B downpipe support bracket is the same part number as the 08+ STi bracket (44021FE030) Spec B Aluminum differential mount is the same as the 08+ WRX & STi (41310AG040) Wiring Harnesses The 2002-2007 (GD Chassis, incl JDM) WRX STi transmissions have round connectors for the neutral and reverse sensors, and the wiring harness merges with the DCCD as a 6-pin connector at the bulkhead. By using part number 24031AA080, you can use an OEM harness to connect the round connectors to the factory 4-pin connector at the bulkhead. The DCCD wires on the original STi harness can then be cut and spliced, or 2 of the 6 pins of the factory STi harness can be used to wire in an aftermarket DCCD controller. The same approach can be used on the 2008+ STi transmission, using part number 24031AA410 - this is the factory 05-09 Legacy GT 5mt harness. Hopefully this helps clear things up for some people!

I managed to install the transmission this weekend. Hopefully that's the last time that happens for a long time... This is what a 2015 sti transmission with 50 miles (no, not 50,000) on it looks like compared to a 130,000 mile 2004 sti transmission. It was pulled from a rally build, not an accident - hoping this will be my 'forever' transmission! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=236561&stc=1&d=1472483227 I also stumbled across a wiring bonus - there's a wiring harness (24031AA410 EDIT - this is the stock LGT 5mt Harness) that I purchased for my original swap that didn't fit. The GD chassis (2004-2007) 6spd transmissions use round connectors for the wiring harness, but the newer ones (2008+) use rectangular connectors - the wiring harness plugs right in and you can get your reverse and neutral sensors to hook up without any splicing! It's a little short, but routing it in a more direct route than the original harness leaves enough room to connect. I left the original harness on the transmission, connected and ran the new harness in parallel, taped up the now-unused connectors to protect them from the elements, and will use two pins on the 6-pin harness for the DCCD control. Legacy GT 4-pin connector vs. Sti 6-pin connector (this is the grey connector close to the firewall): http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=236559&stc=1&d=1472483227 Original rectangular connectors taped up for protection: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=236560&stc=1&d=1472483227 Harness number for reference: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=236562&stc=1&d=1472483227

I ran the tires for about 100km and am having some serious inboard rubbing. Looking less and less hopeful, I'll give spacers a shot but the fenders are already pulled pretty significantly. http://i.imgur.com/xhh2WCnh.jpg http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=236227&stc=1&d=1472104991 The car is back up on jack stands to install a 2015 sti transmission...

Please make those 315s happen. I'll probably end up trying that in a few years after recovering physically, mentally and financially from my upcoming power mods. Yeah, after rolling flat I had to stretch a good bit to get them to fit, especially in the front of the rear fenders. Lots of time with the dremel grinding and cutoff wheels too - I just got the fronts to fit at lunch today. It's my first time hacking away, rolling and pulling fenders so it took some extra hours - probably 8 in total. I'm excited to drive along without fear of moderate sized bumps again!

Doooooooo itttt

Thanks for the input - the hyme joint solution definitely would have solved the binding I had on the arms. Good to hear you had a brilliant way to solve it! As it stands, it was a good thing that I didn't keep the modified trailing arm link, as I ran out of room in the rear of the fender liner under full compression. Last night I was able to dial everything in without rubbing - taking the same approach as you on the camber plates. I had rubbing on the coilover perch until I did that. Camber settings are -2.8F and -1.8R. I rented an eastwood fender roller and rolled and pulled the front fenders, using a heat gun to prevent cracking. I wasn't patient enough and it cracked on one of the fenders anyway - I'll take your tip and use some touchup paint to prevent rust. The rears were more difficult, and I had to pop off the plastic piece at the front of the wheel arch and roll the metal in behind that flat, and then pull it out a good bit using the fender roller. I then took a dremel with a cutoff wheel and trimmed the plastic piece, as well as a little bit of the rear bumper where it protrudes into the wheel well. I plan on inserting some sort of weather guard in the new gap between the fender liner and body to prevent dirt/water/rust from building where it shouldn't. Clearance was checked by unbolting the lower shock bolt and jacking up the wheel until it was riding on the bump stop to make sure I don't rub under full compression. I'm also running into extra fender clearancing issues because of the high profile of the tire (255/40R18 instead of the usual 255/35R18), as well as the large tread width of the AD08R's. For reference, the wheels are 18x8.5 +45, and have maybe 3-4 mm of inboard clearance in the rear, and less front. We'll see how things work once it's back on the ground!

It doesn't fit yet.. we'll see.

Your mounts should be fine, and the V7 JDM Sti 6-speed has the same mounting dimensions as the USDM 6MT's - I've had both in my car. I'd try loosening all the downpipe bolts, the 2-bolt flange bolts, and the downpipe support bracket bolts - tighten the 2-bolt flange then everything else. Did you purchase the Spec B 6mt downpipe support bracket? 44021FE030 Scratch that, it's the same as all years of Sti and Spec B

I got everything installed a week or two ago. This 04 sti transmission is no good, so the search begins for yet another. I'm getting good at swapping 6 speeds on the driveway, at least. Squeezing the 255/40R18's has proved to be a challenge, as expected. They rub like crazy, so next week I'm renting a fender roller and making them fit. RIP fenders. I went back to non-modified trailing arm mounts, but slotted the holes to allow for toe adjustment since I don't own the whiteline toe arms. I was able to finally dial in the alignment settings I want: 0 toe all around, -2.8 degrees front camber, 6.5 degrees caster (spec B arms add a degree or two, and the whiteline ALK adds even more), and -1.8 degrees camber in the rear. I can finally make good use of wider tires. I also installed a K2 Gear Spec Neo Dual exhaust while the car was in the air. Damn it sounds fine - not much louder than the Borla, and a much more 'agressive subaru' tone. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=234654&stc=1&d=1469805997

Did some digging. - Got in touch with Powerflex - very helpful customer service, they will get back to me with measurements on a similar application. The guy mentioned that if they or any of the other manufacturers don't offer a bushing for a location, there may be a reason why. Sometimes poly isn't the right material for the application. - SuperPro sells bushing inserts: SPF3007K if you have voids in the bushings, SPF3008K for solid crossmember bushings. - Beatrush sells the same type of inserts: S76103MTD-SS Nothing else has come up with the following: Hardrace Whiteline Perrin Nolathane Energy AVO Pedders Strongflex Megan Cusco

I hooked up (or at least tried) the rest of the arms today - things did not work out. With stock bushings, there might be enough compliance to shove everything rearward, but my pillowball and poly bushings don't allow it. At full droop, the toe, camber and upper arms were on some harsh angles, and it got worse to the point of binding when the trailing arm moved up. The shock would also be under load (pulled rearward) through its range of motion and would definitely see a decrease in lifespan. Additionally, the bump stop would have to be shoved rearward along with the rest of the arm - an impact would have the bump stop hit off-centre on the upper arm, putting some serious rotational torque on the arm. All in all, not recommended. Perhaps one day I'll look into the sti rear subframe option, but for now I'm going back to the ol fender hacking method.

Well I guess it's due time for an update. Things have happened. I love engine noise. I do not love high RPM drone for hours on end on the highway. Passengers complain and I refuse to take the easy way out and switch to a quieter exhaust. Fuel mileage will also improve, I keep telling myself. Thusly justified, I made the switch to an '04 USDM STi transmission. Said transmission turned out to have a be ill - stricken with a fever of the transfer case. Symptoms included loud groaning from under the shifter. The wagon was soon where it belonged, up on jack stands: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=233700&stc=1&d=1468398634 Tarped, tented, and ready for the Vancouver 'summer' weather we've been having. I tackled the transfer case bearings without pulling the transmission again, because, well.. I apparently like time spent on the rough, wet concrete of the driveway. Pro tip: don't do this with a 6-speed unless you have access to a welder & slide hammer, or that fancy factory tool specific for one very difficult blind hole bearing race. Welder method: http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=233701&stc=1&d=1468398634 Since I had time off work, I decided to tackle some of the side projects I keep adding to the list of personal honey-do's. Namely, spec B aluminum arms, Brembos, Various chassis bracing, RCE lowering camber plates, Whiteline camber arms and bushings, and a few other things to try to squeeze my 255/40R18 tires that have been teasing me from their dishonourable pile on the garage floor. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=233703&stc=1&d=1468398634 I'm curious to see if the unsprung weight reduction makes a big difference, or if I just ended up with some sweet legacy bling. I also took a chunk of time out of my automotive staycation to fab up some modified trailing arm mounts, shifting the mounting holes 7/8" rearward and adding a little toe to my geometry-challenged wagon. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=233704&stc=1&d=1468399003 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=233702&stc=1&d=1468398634 I'll update with how the altered mounts work with the existing suspension when I finish re-installing everything - I might have been better off taking a calculate and model first approach instead of the 'just give'r' method I went for. TTFN

Do any subframe bushing kits (similar to the Whiteline KDT907) fit the 05-09 LGT? I've searched through lots of related threads and couldn't find a solid answer. The rear subframe is out of my car and I'd like to do as much as I can while it's out.

Do you sleep?

While not a transient dyno test, the other day I tried testing boost onset with my non-ported, regular old VF52 up a hill in a high gear. I hit 18 PSI at 2400 RPM. The addition of the grimmspeed intercooler will increase lag when compared to a stock intercooler as well, as there is a greater volume post turbo to pressurize. The headers add another unknown, but as JmP posted - the porting probably has the greatest effect on the lesser boost at low RPM. <- applies to transients, not what will be seen on the dyno. Also, just to be clear - those headers and intercooler are top of the line and I'd love to have them on my car.

That must be a blast - very nice selection of parts! Does the Company23 EBCS eliminate wastegate flutter like it advertises?

Can I play? 255/40R18 Advan AD08R on 18x8.5's

The first pic suggests you're anything but single.

Good work for a weekend! Just a thought on the TMIC - any paint you're adding is effectively acting as insulation on the intercooler, reducing its efficiency.