reeg420

Is this the spring you're talking about? Please tell us more ...

 

Its not gonna be that one. That looks like the fork side of the slave.

Its in the line side.

The slave cylinder spring should look something like this.

Soon as line comes off of slave it should be right in there.

This one isnt from a legacy I forget what maybe a Hyundai, its been floating around my work since I took it out.

 

Sooo much stuff to do this weekend. Might get to this. ISC coilovers and some 19's got to go on.

ALSO, they removed a spring set up that controlled the oil from the slave cylinder

 

I knew it... Never took off the rubber line that night to check.

 

Do we have any confirmed fitting braided lines for that rubber clutch line? If I'm taking it apart again I'm swapping to a stainless braided line just for general purpose.

Rbf 600?

Yup.

What fluid are you guys using/changing to? OEM? Motul?

 

I swapped out to Motul since I had some laying around from changing brake fluid.

Yup a cutting wheel would definitely do it really quick.

 

I never trimmed mine and it still fit on so its not a must do. It just doesn't sit on the stud as far back, I was still able to tighten the nut pretty good too.

 

I like to see more people taking the plunge its well worth it to get a REAL clutch feel on your foot. Not what Subaru thought the clutch should feel like on everybody's feet. I know how to drive it I don't need help. Its like training wheels, and I wear big boy pants now.

Hey, just to double-check -- that OEM part is $28ish? AKA this guy here? For some reason I thought it was like $5-10

 

Yup forget exact price but its more $28ish than 5-10 bucks.

 

haha gteaser you beat me.

Ah that's why it took you the extra time. Couldn't figure it out.

For the 2.5i I didn't have to remove anything to bleed the slave cylinder. That saves alot of time removing and installing it back.

Took me about 30 or so minutes. With a quick "safety meeting" after I swapped the hard lines.

Nice, if mine ever comes out again I'll trim it.

 

Clutch feels totally different huh gteaser?

 

Did you happen to look down the damper valve and notice how small the hole is? Tiny.

Wow that got to you way before local dealer could have gotten it to you gteaser. Nice.

 

Thanks for the pic of it. I was all over the place that day. I wasn't even taking the pics, my phone was dead and my buddy who was helping me was taking them. Thought of it after I was done that I should have had him take a pic of just the piece by itself.

Still lost on why do it....

 

Valve could crack like Surly's when using an aftermarket clutch.

 

I noticed that when I would do a really quick shift that the rpm's would climb as if clutch wasn't fully released by time I gave it more gas. Also when not shifting quick I would notice the rpm's took an extra split second to drop down. Plus I would feel like a noob taking off in first gear sometime after more than 15 years driving manual cars.

 

All has gone away since I swapped out the damper valve.

 

This was my reasons.

The master cylinder reservoir is well above the slave, just as I said it.

 

 

Yup missed reservoir before.

Yup the system was easy to bleed. Quick too. Bleeder screw is 8mm.

 

Master cylinder is in the car behind clutch pedal. Thats where the other end of the hard line that I took out with the damper goes to.

 

Gteaser I think you meant to say the master cylinder is well below the slave.

Couple days ago gteaser and I did a little investigating into what would be needed for a damper delete kit. A few pictures and schematics later we had found an OEM part that would do exactly what we needed.

 

A solid day of driving after install I like how the clutch responds to the pedal. The pedal itself feels a little stiffer, the rpm's drop quicker between shifts, feels ALOT better during quick shifts.

 

Parts Needed:

Subaru part# 37255AJ000 It is a clutch line union located in the engine bay of the 5th gen legacy.

 

Tools Needed:

Phillips screwdriver

Flat head screwdriver

10mm brake line wrench

10mm open ended wrench

12mm deep 1/4" drive socket

1/4" ratchet

30 minutes

beer of choice

 

 

I had tried to get as much fluid out of the lines as possible before I had unbolted everything since I was changing clutch fluid at the same time. If you don't drain it like I did take precaution for the fluid leaks out of the lines in the car.

 

First you have to remove the lower cover under the steering wheel. It is held in place by 3 clips seen by looking underneath. After removing those with a phillips screwdriver the panel is tucked behind the left kick panel and has the obd2 connector attached to it. To remove the connector use a flat head screwdriver and release the clips on both sides holding it in. It will pull towards the backside of the panel.

 

Now with the panel removed this is what you will see.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/WP_20140325_001_zpsb847bfc9.jpg

 

Using the 12mm socket break the nut holding the damper valve in free. Next use the 10mm brake line wrench to break the lines free at the end of the damper valve facing the steering wheel and the line attached to the bottom of the clutch.

Use the 10mm open ended wrench to finish removing both lines.

Remove the 12mm nut that holds the damper valve in place.

Now remove damper valve and little bit on line out of the car.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/V__0494_zpsf32bacdf.jpg

 

Pay attention at the angle of the hard line coming off of the damper valve and switch it over to the union fitting and tighten it up since it would be harder to tighten in the car. That's the reason I took out the hard line with it.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/V__AD08_zps76a788d4.jpg

 

Installation is opposite of removal. I couldnt quite get the union to bolt into the bracket as far as the damper valve would because of one of the edges of the bracket. I still got the nut holding it in to catch a bunch of threads and its really snug. Just an FYI and you could trim the bracket but too much work to take it all out since there is almost no room as it is.

 

This is what it will look like when the union is installed.

 

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj177/reeg420/V__5912_zpsc65ae83a.jpeg

 

Follow the standard procedure to bleed the clutch and you're ready to go.

 

Thanks to gteaser for pointing out the OEM union in the parts diagram.

 

Enjoy.

barely fit on the alignment rack

 

http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/cc434/wantavant/Leggy/1902831_821098631238566_35724123_n_zpsd3bc34de.jpg

 

At least it gets up there. I have to take my bumper off to get on any lift. Im getting a lot quicker. 5 minutes.

Big things happening over here.

 

I think you use those logger defs in romraider to view the logging files which I think is that first file you pulled the .csv one.

Haven't logged anything yet in my car so I'm going just from memory from reading.

Will be soon though. Getting tuned this Saturday.

How is everyone liking the cusco one?

 

Been throwing around the idea of mocking one up on my car and bringing it down to a machine shop and seeing if they can replicate it. Of course it would mount to usdm cars with holes already there. I had already kinda planned it out in my head before this one was found then took a back seat.

Any need or should I just buy the cusco one and call it a day?

Maybe research on how these hold up in NE climate over time. For example, the Piston rod is steel rather than stainless. Rebuild facility is close by in NH - definitely a plus.

 

Yah my buddy has had his for like 4 years now. Close to 70k on them. Seem to hold up pretty well. Sure he has replaced parts here and there but nothing overly expensive. At this point now they make some noises but that's a lot of use. Im sure he could rebuild them though.

 

@Gravity

Tarmacs are nice but almost double price of isc setup. Im not gonna track this thing or anything so its hard for me to justify the price. Good to know about the 02-07 top hats too thanks.

Looking for some opinions on suspension.

 

I've been looking at the ISC coilover setup for the 5th Gen. My buddy has a set in his 4th Gen and I think they ride pretty well. I like the fact that you can readily buy replacement pieces incase something happens. Also so I've heard they have a rebuild facility in New Hampshire which is around my area. Might be at AJW Performance. How ISC's coilovers vs. others in the same price range.

I've looked into koni's also but to get the amount of drop I want I'd have to use wrx struts and have the rear machined to equal the amount of extra drop. I currently run teins and in my opinion could be lower. So that would bring me 1/2" lower than now. Only thing that these don't have would be the top hats with camber adjustment.

I've looked a little while for adjustable top hats for the 5th Gen and didn't come up with anything. Though I didn't look that hard.

 

Looking for some opinions and personal experiences to help me figure this out. Thanks.

Seen a 5th Gen 2.5i GGM just like mine. Somewhat black out headlights parked right outside level 2 citywide door at providence place mall. Backed in 2 spots from where I'm parked.

 

Wow just realized this is an awesome place for a photo shoot.

Seen this on Craigslist in Connecticut. Megan axle backs. $150

http://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/4334624631.html

Yah any axle back exhaust from a 08+ Impreza. Perrin and Megan are a couple brands. Or you can use the lgt exhaust and have the hangers welded to the car for the passenger side can.

What aftermarket exhausts will fit 2010 2.5i?

 

 

Axle back exhaust for an 08+ wrx sedan. I know off hand of perrin and megan that sell them. Ive heard on here that both sell just a single drivers side rather than two which is specifically for the wrx sedan. Axle back not cat back.