relative4

Sure, if you want to destroy your catalytic converter. Put the old sensor back on and do some more diagnosis before throwing parts.

Yes, disconnect the ball joint. I wouldn't touch that outer boot.

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Description & diagnostic procedures starting on page 4935 Wiring diagrams starting on page 5197

My keyless entry system is on the fritz, and the FSM says to scan for a B0500 code. My Launch CRP123 has the latest Subaru definitions, but it doesn't appear to have support for BCM codes. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive scanner that will support this module? An Android app would be preferable.

I recommend replacing the suction hose. They crack radially at the pump end and are often the source of leaks attributed to the pump or the O-ring.

I have four brand new springs that came off a set of Monroe quick struts for a Legacy wagon. I removed them to install aftermarket springs. Never been mounted on a car. Stock rates, obviously. Only been sitting in the garage, in a closed box, for a few months; not even dusty. The shipping box is 15" x 14" x 10" and weighs 29 pounds. My zip code is 80111. If you calculate shipping to you, and round up a few bucks for my time and gas to drop it off, that's your price.

After driving tonight, I noticed a strong fuel smell coming from the left underside of the car, below the left rear door. Haven't yet had a chance to get under there and pull the plastic. Once I do, what are common culprits that I can expect to find?

Reset the ECU and drove it around till it was fully warmed up, and did some WOT pulls. Drives normally, fuel trims normal, no timing pulls or misfires. Guess I'll make it my local-only daily till I can get it to act up again. The FSM says to replace the ECU at this point. Not sure I disagree...

The IC-TB hose is secure, and the MAF readings stayed steady while I wiggled the sensor, its pigtail, and a bunch of wiring along the harness. The MAF reading was 4 g/s and 1.3V. The FSM specifies MAF airflow of 2-3 g/s but 1.0-1.7 V, so I don't think there's anything wrong with the MAF. Please advise if there's anything out of the ordinary there. So far I don't see any problems external to the engine. Can anyone recommend next steps to prove whether the engine is giving up the ghost? Other than another compression test, I'll get to that if I have to. I used Torque to pull codes, and it did show a pending P0172. Went back to BtSsm, still no codes. Does BtSsm normally not show pending codes? I don't currently trust BtSsm to be showing cylinder misfires/roughness properly, especially since I've never seen it count a single misfire in the whole time I've had the car. Can anyone recommend other apps/tools to check cylinder roughness?

Thanks! Unfortunately the fuel pressure is bang on spec at 36 PSI with the vacuum hose connected and 44 PSI with the vacuum hose disconnected, so I will check the TB hose and the MAF next. Thanks again.

That possibility is why I provided the history; I am conscious of the risk. However, the ECU is not reporting any cylinder misfires - I keep the misfire/roughness counts on my BtSsm monitor screen configuration. I'll dig out the pressure gauge and tee in. Fingers crossed.

I guess I should start by diagnosing the fuel pressure regulator? How do I go about that?

2005 LGT 5MT, 165K miles. I bought the car 9 months ago; when I got it home, it had 162K miles. I replaced the timing belt, which was overdue, and replaced the turbo with a stock IHI unit; the old one was running fine but I wanted to maximize my time before blowing the short block. Compression when I did the engine work was about 95 PSI in all cylinders. It's been running great since, with significant but not crazy oil consumption. I'm still running the stock tune - don't want to go stage 1 until I have enough time in my life to rebuild an engine. A day or two ago, on a hot start, it stumbled badly and took 5-10 seconds to start running normally. Then tonight, on a 15 minute drive, it was running jerky. A mile from home, it died. I started it, and it ran worse, dying several more times before I got home. By the time I got home, the sulfur stench was almost unbreathable. Coaxed it into the driveway and it continued idling without dying, but still stinking a bit, while I grabbed my OBD dongle and fired up BtSsm. It's pulling massive fuel - learn and correction are both max negative. The weird part is, no codes, pending or active. Even if the computer can't tell me anything useful, it makes no sense that it's not popping a P0172. I've troubleshot lean conditions on these engines dozens of times, but this is my first time running rich, let alone insanely rich. What should I be looking at? Thanks!

How much harshness should one expect from the Group Ns?

I'm planning to replace my engine mounts while I have the engine off the crossmember for an oil pan job. The OEM mounts are wicked pricey. Are there good aftermarket manufacturers for mounts with OEM hardness?

Thanks gang. What type of RTV do you like for this?

Excellent, thanks. Making sure I know what needs to be disconnected before lifting: Intercooler, dogbone, engine mounts, intake hose Downpipe - just the support bracket, or that and disconnect from the catback, or remove entirely? Transmission mount? What else? Thanks!

I need to lift my engine a few inches to replace the oil pan gasket. Is there a lifting eye under the intercooler so I can use a support bar across the strut towers, or do I need to use a hoist on the alternator bracket?

The most common sources of squealing are the accessory belts. Have those been checked?

Once you've removed the radiator, condenser, bumper, etc., the engine and transmission can come out the front. Not sure if there will be overweight/balance problems using just the engine lifting eyes for the engine and transmission. A chain around the transmission might be good for extra support.

That's the A/C evaporator drain hose. It's fine. Regarding ugly sounds, please post video or at least audio.

What kind of RTV do you guys use on water pumps?

It's an EJ255. The usual path is to get a new short block and get the heads rebuilt.

Just a little PSA here. I've always been skeptical about the 10 year interval, but I've always followed it (when miles were low) anyway cause I'm anal like that. Well, the '05 LGT manual I just bought had 70K miles and exactly 11 years on the belt, all in the Pacific Northwest. I decided to replace the belt, and here's what I found. There were much larger cracks than these; some went 90% of the way across the belt. The belt is hard like a rock. Luckyyy....

No biggie. Less than none. Find something else to worry about.