Jacobpockros

Also, ordered new wheels Stay tuned!

Update: Got my rack set up to hold Surfboards the other day. Installed some new eBay Surfpads and used Surf Straps I had laying around: The Fairing was preventing the Front Pad from fitting around the bar so I cut two rectangular holes in the Pad and burned it's edges so it won't tear: Right before a friend and I hit the waves

^ Great pictures Grimmrican! You may have answered this earlier in the thread or in one of your posts but what size Wheels and Tires are you running? Also, what type of wheels are they? Any rubbing issues? Thanks, - Jake

This only other thread you searched that you see trouble with is my current thread on which way the struts and shocks face. There are two trolls in that thread posting about how much they hate the thread instead of contributing to it. They have both been reported and I'm hoping it gets cleaned out soon. I feel as though you're taking my post as an insult? It's not an insult, it simply states that the H&R springs aren't as close to being level as you were making it out to be. You seem to be offended that I don't like the rake look? Most people think it looks better than non-rake so I don't see why you take it as me trolling? I'm getting trolled right now in another thread as stated so being a troll to someone is the last thing I want to do right now. The people I'm asking "how hard is it for you guys just to look?" to are the people who are trolling me in the thread while not making a single contribution. If someone doesn't want to answer one of my questions, they shouldn't have to! However, if that's the case they also have no need posting in it because it's nothing but clutter. That's why threads (such as classifieds for example) are so heavily watched on forums, people don't want their threads to have useless clutter that's irrelevant to their thread and only making it more confusing. I'm sure you understand that as you have many posts on your belt. I'm not trying to be defensive. As a matter of fact, I acknowledged that you proved me wrong about the springs taking over 500 miles to settle. All I was trying to say was that I don't agree that the H&R springs will ever be very close to being level. Most people I talk to like that look, and they make fun of me for wanting to do the work all over again just to have an equal ride height. I think you took it personally as an attack. That's not what it is. If it sounded like one than I apologize. Once again, no need to explain yourself for what I said about your car, it's not an insult, we just simply have the same suspension. You are stating you have 8" wide wheels with 215's on them, saying that is why you can't see the top of the tire. I'm assuming your rear wheels are the same though? Correct me if I'm wrong. I could be. Again, I did not mean to offend you, so no need for these return-fire comments. I am sorry I offended you. As stated, it was not what my goal was of posting it.

Thanks! Looking good!

^ Can you please post some recent side shots of your BE?

From looking at your picture, there is a shadow over the front tire that gives the false impression of more wheel gap than there really is. The picture shows significantly less pixels for the width of the tire at the top portion than it does for the sides: http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r247/jacobpockros/Edited%20Pictures/6b1af302-a4a2-4390-a34f-ff68fd4de6a5_zps3bcbe814.jpg Even with shadow creating a false image of front wheel gap, you can't see the top of the tire on the front wheel. It looks like it's tucked in. When you look at the back wheel, you can still see on top of the tire, even the tread. This in my book this does not qualify for "almost the same height" because if you were to put on wider tires the reality of the height difference would show it's logic. You would have front tires holding the weight of the car by it's front fenders and a very noticeable gap between the rear tires that you can fit your hand under. It's not a good example to use when your wheels are tucked in. However, I have to give you credit that your springs took longer than 500 miles to settle all the way around. If you google how it long it usually takes, you often see the results of a few hundred miles. Also, none of the other cars I have owned have taken over 500 miles. I find it odd that yours do. Edit: From looking at your build thread, you edited the picture above to make it look lower than it really is. This is your original picture taken from your build thread: http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x387/stoggy95/Shibas/032F270F-E4F3-4F66-8C4D-4D5B32EAE35B-14019-00000838226465CF.jpg Source: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-02-legacy-gt-161445p2.html

In reality, springs are constantly settling (sagging). They just do it extremely slowly over time, which is why cars with such high mileage often have the saggy-ass lowrider look (especially wagons). However, the initial spring settling for new springs will be very progressive until it hits it's threshold of noticeably sagging (which as stated is usually 500 miles). I'll take your word that it took 800-1000 miles for your springs to settle, mainly because Bilstein makes one hell of an assembly. However, KYB assembly's are rated much closer to your average stock performing shock than a Bilstein is in terms of easier compression, so I'm convinced I won't see any more of a height change with my H&R's (maybe years from now, but who wants to wait that long?).

What's your BE lowered on?

I do not believe it takes 10,000 miles. Again, general consensus states 500 miles. If you do a google search you're gonna find an overwhelming amount of results that states this. Giving it the Benefit of the doubt though, if it really is 10,000 miles, that's way too long for me to want to wait to see my springs settle. The king Springs were designed for the sedan. The H&R's aren't. I'd much rather Lower my car on the correct springs for proper driving performance and looks. I knew the whole time that the H&R's weren't going to look right on my Sedan, but thought I would give them a try.

I have a hard time believing that the rear is almost the same height as the front on your car. Post up a picture to prove me wrong. The general consensus is that it takes 500 miles for springs to settle. I just hit 500 miles on them and they still look VERY uneven. Got a call from the King Springs distributer today and they said they should be here in less than 3 weeks, faster than previously thought. Thanks for the compliment by the way. White is a nice color but it gets dirty quickly.

Good to hear about the springs. The roof rack is not cheap, you just need to see better pictures of it. I did not take detailed pictures. The Yakima roof racks are one of the best roof racks you can buy. If I didn't piece mine together from used parts, it would have cost $500-$600.

Update: Took my front brake rotors off to get resurfaced. Although there was plenty of meat on the rotors, they were too warped to cut, so I ended up buying brand new OEM Legacy Front Rotors and Pads: Also installed the H&R Springs and KYB Struts/Shocks: Then installed my Yakima Roof Rack. Final results: The brakes are great, the roof rack looks badass, the KYB Struts/Shocks absorb the bumps well, but I dislike the springs. I want to say the front dropped 1.5" and the rear only dropped 1" (if that). Case in point, I'm replacing the H&R springs with King Springs. I ordered them today and they should be here in 3 weeks. King Springs is an Australian brand which is why they are gonna take 3 weeks to get here. They are made specifically for the 2000-2004 Sedans and drop them 1.75ish (not sure) in both the front and rear. Will update thread when they get here. - Jake

What car is this shift knob from?

TOB can mean Throw Out Bearing

I think you are getting confused my friend. This was what I said: With that perfectly said, an upgraded Front Sway Bar will NOT increase your speed around a corner. It will increase your turn-in response. Great for autocrossers, but NOT great for increasing your speed while holding a turn. See what I'm trying to explain?

Actually you are incorrect. Adding a bigger front sway bar will create understeer if you don't upgrade the rear. Even if you upgrade both, the upgraded front sway will still create understeer. It's not a good setup I you want to increase your speed around a corner

Exactly what I believe.

Yeah, I compared my front and rear springs the other day, pressing on them, and the rears seemed far more stiff than the fronts. I've been keeping my eye out on the black market for a used Whiteline rear sway for the past few weeks. Many people say to get both the front and rear, but the car should handle faster around corners with just the rear I would think because adding a front sway increases understeer (although creating faster turn-in response). I have not looked into upgrading stabilizer bars on these cars (just got my BE around 2 months ago). Do you think upgrading it would make noticeable differences?

hmm. True. The difference in front weight between the manual and auto is only around 60lbs. So if I have less rake when I install it, it may be barely noticable. However, I have the rear spoiler, which adds a whopping 5lbs to the rear, so maybe I'll be somewhat level Rake is better for performance, I just don't like the look for some reason.

Errrr see I don't want too much rake on mine (just personal preference). Is your car an auto or manual? (The autos weigh slightly more in the front).

Nice! That's justifiable reasoning. I was wondering if it was on purpose for drivability reasons or something.

Sweet! Looks like we both have good taste because the following products are in my room waiting for me to install next week: http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r247/jacobpockros/Subaru%20Legacy/P1010417_zps22923bb4.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r247/jacobpockros/Subaru%20Legacy/P1010399_zpsd2a259e5.jpg http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r247/jacobpockros/Subaru%20Legacy/P1010422_zps50efb40e.jpg Any reason why you're running OEM shocks in the rear?

Good plan! What are you lowered on by the way?

I highly recommend you build a box around the cone and rear end of the snorkel. Your design will be MUCH more efficient that way. - Jake