keenster

The box looked a little sketchy but I didn't let him leave till I checked it all out. The top rear dowel on passenger side had a slight bend in it. But nothing I couldn't fix. I just turned over a little tool on the lathe and kind of tapped it in. Looks perfect now. It came in cardboard and foam with wood on the bottom. I thought for sure it would have been crated.

It's finally here! http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/d82ab6ac2c06622de2848c99695968da.jpg Some max capacity dragon skin http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/19d3961a94078720bafede5573523c35.jpg

Thanks. Yeah I'll work on that soon.

Here is how I made my own differential bushings. Which if I do believe I am the second person on this site to make their own. I can also make these up for other member too if anyone is interested. They will be cheaper than the others on this site since they're not being sent out to be done. I am also going to do an in depth write up on how to make these. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/337ac1b8cb3a6d34b48af8ec58ca3743.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/fdbf4ed532a197cd9584976795b37e52.jpg After drilling and reaming, the pin fits perfect with .005" in between the pin and the bushings. This is to allow oil to lubricate the bushing. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/2e0108c6e14c242ba960f186da84eab5.jpg The new ones vs. the old ones I purchased used. The ones I bought had a belly in the middle and some were up to .011" for the bushing ID. Too big for my liking. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/a78e177da5bddf600e60cf4dfe3257e2.jpg I even made my own tool to press fit them in perfectly http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/1c2960ed129b04d3947891f553424857.jpg I put the bushings in the freezer for an hour and the gears in the heat treat furnace at 250 degrees for an hour. I then used a vise and the tool I made to press the bushings into the gear http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/37ecbd0b6b58d9d90eb53c9250ec3a74.jpg The bushing tool sits flush with the top of the gear. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/e1beece01d0765985f207e7177688e14.jpg The finished product installed http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/f7e9803d2aa525c541143974157c207f.jpg Here's a pic of a portion of the shop http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/fb32147e22c818515a496d2ea43cb29d.jpg I just finished installing these into the differential and bolted the tranny brace, drive shaft, and heat shield. Now I sit and wait for this engine to come in the mail. How long did it take others for Heuberger to ship the short block?

can i get my build thread moved over there? Resurrect subie wan Kenobi

Thanks Namen. The shop is nice to have instead of bumping into crap in a garage. plus I can make stuff here. like the QD tool and bushing! I enjoyed your edit on the shopping list! lol I really needed to look at it today when ordering my Shorty:spin:

I pulled the car out of storage Saturday and felt all warm inside. It's been about a year since I've seen it. That day I pulled out the stock fuel pump and dropped the DW 65c in. No problems on the install. I had a full tank of gas too so it was just a bit messy but nothing bad. I also installed a new brush assembly on the back of the starter. I broke the copper wire that runs out the back. The brush assembly was like $23 which is better than a new starter. I also pulled out the stock FPR. The quick connects were a pain in the neck to get off. I bought the tool to disconnect them and it didn't work. so I fabbed up my own tool out of .025 shim laying around in the shop. I installed the STI pedals I purchased from a member on here. And started putting the fuel rails on the TGVs. The heads did get a valve job done to them. The guy at the shop said three were leaking on each head. They took only .004 off to clean them up. I don't think .004 is enough to get a bigger head gasket. So any input on that would be cool. Anyone in NE Ohio need a good machine shop that does subie heads, go to Gregs Machine Shop in Copley. They do great work and they are Park Subaru's head repair shop. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/c48fb062ebf7b465b14a5d1a09897ab8.jpg I then started with the differential bushing. I took out the exhaust system, drive shaft, and the shield. I strapped a ratchet strap to the starter hole and attached it to the tow motor to hold the front end of the transmission in place. Then I disconnected the pitch stop. I then lowered the transmission with a small piece of plywood, a 4X4, and a jack. I unbolted the housing and pulled it off. Broke one bolt during this too. I purchased the bushings used off a member here but they were in worse shaped then I thought. Probably happened when they got hammered out. They were tapered and wollered out. The ID of the bushings had a .010 of a gap in between the pins and bushings. And according to Frankster and Climber's write up, that wasn't to spec. So I got on Mcmaster Carr and bought a foot of 544 Bronze alloy for $30 and I am gonna make them myself. Thanks to my girlfriend's dad's machine shop this option was way cheaper than buying them. We are keeping the ID to .005 over sized to allow oiling. this would be within spec. Plus a fresh new bushing made myself! I'll post pics of the finished product. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/fe415f36cfa08c43fb09f5d074dd2661.jpg The DW rails are pretty sexy. Probably wont see much of them when they are installed on the car. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/9b20f95eec00ed8ea753881570fd4af9.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/24654e978f05fc0446e5166296fdd583.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/07/ed61b2c1859d17ef4f9ade2c5c7ee302.jpg I finally purchased the shortblock today from Heuberger (thanks Tris) along with the gasket kit and half moons. All shipped to the shop for $2093.68!!!!

Update time. Heads are all good to go. Nothing burned up and no warpage. Holds compression and this will be the THIRD engine these sluts have been with. The shop is replacing the valve seals and cam seals. I've ordered a bunch of parts (updated on first post) and all I have to get is my short block and turbo and a few little things. still going with the BNR 18g. my goal is to be done by the end of may. Replaced just about everything i can. I'm so ready to start on this thing. Spt exhaust coming soon too.

Because I thought since you were moving air intake temp to the TMIC outlet. Because I know you can run hybrid sd. Just thought that's what you were doing there

Are you running SD?

That's so JDM

i rather just get the front lsd

I read this about a year ago. im glad you brought it up. you guys always keeping me on track! just over thinking shit.. i know it's all in the tune. I really dont want to do this again...

Yeah the cobb AP should be on there, figured it's a given. im not doing OS. Screw that noise. I was thinking going BNR 18g turbo-wise though. I'm not worried so much about numbers in this build but mainly on how well all the new parts will work together. Just let the tuner do what they do best. JmP has not heard from me yet. not sure what i should discuss though lol. i think he's semi close to me because in Box kitten HG thread he said he wasn't too far from Ohio. Too bad he's a got a family, otherwise I would whore out for his help.

*I updated my part list on the first post* word just still nervous about putting it all back together. this project separates the men from the boys but the vacation pics have been a great source! ive striped a few bolts here and there, meh, whatever, I'm keeping track of em all. Yeah you convinced me a while ago to go with a new shorty. I've just been taking my time on this. Taking notes, separating everything into labled baggies. But i know the whole forged internals is a bit of a overpriced thing, but i am still considering going oem sized forged for the new block. I stopped at Summit Racing the other day and asked about the manley ones and it's right around $530 bones.... Not too bad i thought. They also had them there in stock and brought them out to me. They were purddy Lately I've been bead blasting hard lines and have been painting them and then baking them. just staying busy with this. this is what i get for never getting off the stock tune...

So what failed on my catastrophe? Turbo shaft snapped. Piston 2 and 4 ring lands cracked and broke off. Rod for piston 3 has quite a bit of side to side play. Not sure if that is normal but it would explain one of the many sounds I heard when the engine went. Piston 4 http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/160b494119b3d8e678df2ee475c1f970.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/95a165c01bc1193919ed68a501b370eb.jpg Piston 2 http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/360x360q90/14/11/16/ccdd41af0c0b63b4929d9df74e8fefbf.jpg

I bought a legacy once. Biggest love hate relationship since Ricky Ricardo and Lucille Ball

Get some of those killbiy pics framed. love deal's gap.

Hell yeah dude! Congrats! Can't wait for that feeling myself.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/07/16f0c597d4cc26a9abdb740a5c5170a5.jpg Seen this old guy rocking LGT. 471 I believe. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/07/a55c02c0fb080e7bbfa60305bd7d05f9.jpg

Thanks sigma and Cincy! Will call both shops today. I hit a deer this morning in my mint probe gt. Need a new fender. So that's on the list too.

Cincy, did you you get you heads redone? If so where at? I live in the kent/akron area but I work in southern Ohio. Just looking for a machine shop with experience in these heads. So if I have to I'll drive there

Okay groovy. The names Bond. FUJI Bond. I'll take some more pics when I go back to the shop about that worn deal. His argument is that the connecting rods would be worn as well.. Maybe this was a reman when the dealer dropped a "new" shorty in it.

The nasty piston is the passenger side closes to the firewall or tranny

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/03/483240f182bfe0f96a58e1d6b62b4360.jpg