MrTris

You are gonna experience such culture shock, it's not even funny. The weather alone is gonna be a big change, especially this time of year! I miss GA this time of year.

Anyone near Valdosta?

PIA. Specialty: All the things, and tuning. And being badass.

Yikes! Sorry I didn't see that post in time, Bucko. Other than the gasket, did you do okay? Third time's a charm?

Does this mean we're LGT icons and/or institutions now?

It's a 50/50 application thing -- half goes on the head, and the other half goes on the VC, using the level changes (flow of the head) as the dividing line. At this point, Brock, you need to pull the motor out as far as you can and make sure you scrub the surfaces clean -- can't have any remaining sealant or copper on those faces before you apply the new RTV.

Things you learned today: copper isn't Permatex UltraBlack. It doesn't seal oil. Get a tube of UltraBlack and do it right. Send me a PM if you want to exchange numbers and I can walk you through the correct application of the sealant to the gasket.

Turbo V6? Eh, I can't really argue. . . That's gotta be pretty fun.

This. Needs UltraBlack. Not an option.

For the money, one could do better, unfortunately.

From what I can tell, forged pistons are more trouble than they're worth. It's DEFINITELY all in the tune.

He rebuilds the 40s very well, and can do larger, if you like. Quality work. I'm personally running one of his upgraded VF40s and it's awesome. I love it. Always a good read!

Best way to stay busy on a build! I didn't see a Cobb AP on there for the parts list. . ? Have you decided on a turbo yet? Have you sent a PM to JmP to discuss your needs?

Yeah, that's definitely new SB business, right there. Keenster, I would compare your cost to rebuild your block -- Boring and honing, new pistons and bearings, etc -- to the cost of an OEM block ($1645 from Heuberger, or ~$1800 shipped; $2081 to-your-door with gasket kit, which, you'll need anyway). I'm fairly certain you'll be just fine with a new block and a new turbo. Follow the rebuild formula, it's the path to happiness.

Maybe start with just the bifocals on a string and see how people react?

Fujibond can be hard to get ahold of, Permatex Ultra Black is preferred by many builders. You really only need it on the VCs and the oil pump, no other places. There shouldn't be any RTV on your cam towers, cam bolts or, actually anywhere near your cams, for that matter. You want the RTV to seal the oil in places it needs to seal and for it to stay there. Floating pieces of RTV can kill a motor. Just witnessed a rebuild come down last weekend after some harsh valve noise. Pulled the VCs and took out the rocker assembly, which revealed a tiny piece of RTV that was clogging an oil port on the lifters.

Something something because he sold his car to Dispatch20.

You're using the wrong ratchet. Most of the small bolts, 10mm and under, are meant to be loosened and tightened using the 1/4dr ratchet, not the 3/8ths.

Love it!

Doesn't look like it's been posted yet, even if someone has!

You need to get an AP!

That they is. .

From what I've read, I don't think the dealers ever used a new sb when replacing them. Always "reman".

Pretty much. If you're not planning on doing a high-boost, high-HP build, forged isn't going to help you. Spend the extra money on a good tuner; the OEM shortblock is just fine.

08-11 WRX should have D25 heads, which, will work, but will need airpump delete plates, and an understanding that your CR will take a lil' bump.