MrTris

Holy Jaysus. You win the award for Biggest Shop To Do Your Rebuild In! Nice rails, too.

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. . . and if the PCV is blocked, then it will exit from the oil fill tube or dipstick tube, since both are the biggest paths of least resistence.

Huh. Well, then I guess #ynansb.

Yours is probably PCV-related. I would at least change it, since it's cheap to do so, (~$30) and see if the problem persists. BMB, pressure is supposed to be equalized between the two sides, via the crossover hoses that run along the back of the PCV system that's mounted to the back of the intake manifold. Since it's already torn down, maybe go ahead and run those bad boys through the wash to ensure that there's no blockage?

It shouldn't, since it's crankcase-connected. Unless you had blowby, but, at that point, it's not really a "boost leak".

Increased crankcase pressure is really the only way that would have pressure against it, since it basically sits right over the cams, which are bathed in oil in the VCs.

This is the most likely piece, and, what I was going to guess, but, needed to know top or bottom first, as, on the B-series heads, there's an identical casting mark for an exhaust cam sensor on the bottom, but no electrical for it.

Top or bottom of engine? Have you deleted your TGVs?

Got this in a PM. Then reported it, just so the mods could laugh, too. Seriously, WHY do they sell these cars to anyone who wants them?

OEM block is best for most scenarios. It's all in the tune.

I think I guess which one. .

Damn, those are nice!

Wow, it goes all the way down to CA, huh?

Outback Automotive of Auburn, WA recently changed their name to Infront Automotive, after reportedly receiving a C&D from SOA. Even prior to this change, many were experiencing subpar service and labor; those of us local to that shop and have had such an experience, no longer recommend people use them. My personal experience was limited to a phonecall with John when I was shopping around for parts and such. I had heard that they did headwork, and called for a quote. I was quoted $800 for basic headwork. No 5-angle valve job, PnP, just what was needed to bolt them back on. Using the list in my ERSL, it should cost about half that-- $400. I later learned that they (Outback/Infront) didn't actually have a machine shop/facilities on-site and would be farming out the work, most likely to Heads Up!, a reknown automotive machine shop in the area, then marking up the price. I haven't called back since, and don't plan to. After hearing other's poor experiences there, and seeing some of their build quality in person, I'm not impressed enough to recommend that folks take their cars there, and if asked, I'm honest about it - I would wager that, at some point in the near future, enough of their mistakes will have stacked and be made known, that they will be forced to close.

A note on that, though. When the design changed in 07-08 to D-series heads, the gasket changed, too, and you'll also need the airpump delete plates, so, just keep that in mind.

Here, try this, too: http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/4935174047.html Yes, 04-05 heads are B25s. Will work up to like, 08, I think. B and D will work, W will not.

"All this for $1200". . Does that include pistons? Price is WAYYY too low to be legit. #inb4kaboom.

Yes.

Why does everyone say that? You make it sound like I'm some chickenhawk lame-o. For real, though, we gotta get together and cook sometime - Let's make some bitches fat and happy! Bitch, ain't nothing to judge! I hang to the left.

Met WesleyCrowbar and his friend, today. Y'all are gonna like him. He's a legit cool dude.

That's beautiful. I love the bronze XTs. Your friend is making a . . . funny face?

I'll probably roll in just after 7. Look for the SWP sedan.

It can be rough at times, friend. I hope it gets better for you soon!

Makes sense. Otherwise, I was thinking you'd paid Outfront's price, plus markup!