brandon.mol

Not sure if this has been posted or not, but once you do the Nav-screen lockout-defeat mod, you can go into the Nav settings --> Vehicle Information screen and see how fast you are going as per the GPS, which is far more accurate *and independent of your tire size* than the speedo in the car.

If like me, you have a scan-gauge II or other digital speedo with configurable correction factor, you can use the nav system screen to correct it.

The ECU in my car reports 1% faster than actual on my summer tires and 3% faster than actual on my winters. More importantly, the gauge is wayyy off.. about 6% or more.

I was under the impression that you need the weight to be on the wheels to remove the bar?

Nope. Either weight on both, or weight on neither. Don't want any twist in the bar when you unbolt it, otherwise it will go snakey all over your face

Why you no do it yourself?

I flipped mine in like 20 minutes. Put the car up on jack stands, take off the right rear wheel, unbolt the two endlinks from the bar, unbolt the brackets holding the bar to the car, and iust slides right out the right side. Flip and return. i didn't even move off my back.

I just had my 22mm WL RSB installed and I'm getting i bit of a... i don't want to say rattle, but maybe more like a vibration noise. it sound like the sway bar is touching the body every so often. the mechanic told me it was tough trying to save the end links, since VT is the place suspensions go to die, and that the way it is installed the endlinks are not sitting vertical anymore. I'm thinking about going with the white line adjustable end links to try to get rid of this rattle to try and "place" the bar better. can anybody confirm or deny this may fix my problem? it's raining now but maybe tomorrow I'll jack it up and try to get some pictures to help find this freakin noise. also I heard this bar was really designed for the WRX and in our cars it's installed upside down. but which way is right side up?

 

thanks for any help in advance

I had the same problem, and it was the sway bar touching the spare tire tub. I flipped the bar around so the dip goes down instead of up and problem solved.

Endlinks don't need to be vertical. I have mine on the '23mm' setting and they are angled even more. Works fine and that's even more stress on them, however I am not lowered.

A hack saw and welder could fix that anyway...

I torqued em to spec with my torque wrench. Thought I did so when they were initially installed, but i guess I forgot to double check after finishing the job.

LoL you took that way to literally.

You're nuts, I meant.

Strut mount?

Since you have konis and can adj your rebound damping, try reducing the damping as low as it goes, ie as little as possible and see if the noise changes, or the circumstances that cause it. Reduced rebound damping may prevent tension loading on the strut which could indicate a bad strut mount bearing.

It may be hard yo yell but if you can figure out if the clunk occurs on compression or rebound it may help.

a little bit of both

I second that...

Mine was built 03/12 is there a way to find an exact number?

Vin number gives the production unit number. Whoever has the highest, has the last one. Its stamped into the chassis before paint, so its assigned after the chassis is built but before paint.

yet to do an alignment because I am debating whether I am happy with the ride height

^^^ This.

Get a proper alignment, then come back. Your toe is out to lunch, I can pretty much guarantee that.

Do BCs have adjustable rebound damping?

Yes. Yes you do.

1. Get life insurance if you have a family

2. Get laid

3. Clutch damper delete

Three most important things you should do during your tenure on this earth.

plus DOT 5+ fluid is silicone based and does not absorb water, whcih could cause corrosion or frozen parts. It is not approved for use in your clutch or brake system for a DD.

Read your user manual. DOT 3 or DOT 4.

For your clutch.. who cares: Put dollar-store brake fluid in it and it will be just as good.

No internet points are had by putting expensive fluid in your clutch lines. Any DOT 4 (synthetic) will maybe reduce low temp thickening and its cheap.

If you want smoothness then OEM is for you.

There is endless discussion about the pros and con's of the Bilsteins vs konis vs OEM/kyb.

I've been very vocal about it, following my experience with swapping springs.

So go grab a beer and start reading.

without the damper, it probably doesn't matter much anyway.

Full throttle clutch fluid flow, yo.

You Americans are such suckers for a seal cub.

They are the rats of the arctic

And we know the consensus on rats...

Improvement by removement.

Best kind.

For me, a big thing about this fix is in cold weather. In freezing temps, the clutch fluid gets thicker and it makes the damper slow things even more. Trying to change your clutch usage based on air temp is absurd.

Glad you were successful and happy ripstik. Then again, nobody that's done it has regretted it... Notta one.

Has anyone confirmed that 4th Gen front lower control arms will work on a 5th gen?

I've seen this post from fahr_side:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=208

Just not sure how certain that "should" is.

I'm asking because my front right LCA may be bent (by 0.3 inch rearward, somehow), and if I have to replace it, the Spec-B or JDM aluminum WRX part may be a good option if it fits AND works. Both sides would get replaced in that case.

I don't want to bend one again, so something stronger is the point. Unsprung weight reduction is a bonus.

Thoughts?

Its good to tip your top hats every once in a while.

Bazinga.

Wow yeah they went up in price. All the more reason to go with konis, but not with swifts.

For that price you would be better off selling the swifts, buying konis and some other springs. Or just buy the koni plus h&r kit from tire rack and some lift spacers to adjust the height as required.

No way are the bils worth a grand. Thats nuts...