smokee_won

Cobb didn’t have their kit that works with a Spec B then. Chicago area e85 is not consistently 85% and I filled up with something like 35%. It dropped my reading from 77% to 40% with a ten gallon fill up on a sixteen gallon tank. I didn’t do the math on this but you can get the idea.

I had det on a e85 tune and punched a hole in my new block. Didn’t even have 500 miles on it.

When I pulled -62 I got the crank sprocket stuff. I my case, my first rebuild was replaced with am ej257 block and my head were redone because the valves had been rocking in the guides. Everything was replaced with cosworth items but it wasn’t until after the build that I stated thinking I should have gotten the intake valves thermal coated. Are we sure the NA valves are sodium like the ej255 ones?

Thank for the FYI for the question that was not asked, that all OEM exhaust valves from Subaru are Sodium filled. They don’t have narrower stems in the area of flow. They don’t have other enhancements that some would consider worthy of having and therefore buy and replace their OEM valves during their build. You could answer the question that was asked and contribute to the discussion. We might even get some insights. BTW page ME(H4DOTC)-62 MECHANICAL Crank Sprocket 17.Crank Sprocket A: REMOVAL NOTE: Perform the work with the engine installed to body when replacing a single part. 1) Remove the V-belts. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)-41, REMOVAL, V-belt.> 2) Remove the crank pulley. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)-48, REMOVAL, Crank Pul- ley.> 3) Remove the timing belt cover. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)-50, REMOVAL, Timing Belt Cover.> 4) Remove the timing belt. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)-51, REMOVAL, Timing Belt.> 5) Remove the crank sprocket. C: INSPECTION 1) Check the crank sprocket teeth for abnormal wear and scratches. 2) Make sure there is no free play between crank sprocket and key. 3) Check the crank sprocket protrusion used for sensor for damage and contamination of foreign matter. ME-00103 B: INSTALLATION 1) Install the crank sprocket. ME-00103 2) Install the timing belt. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)-53, INSTALLATION, Tim- ing Belt.> 3)Install the timing belt cover. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)-50, INSTALLATION, Timing Belt Cover.> 4) Install the crank pulley. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)- 48, INSTALLATION, Crank Pulley.> 5) Install the V-belts. <Ref. to ME(H4DOTC)-41, INSTALLATION, V-belt.> ME(H4DOTC)-62 This page mentions nothing about valve construction, and this installation manual for this engine is for just one of the many engines under the Subaru banner and so does not represent that all of their exhaust valves are filled with sodium.

I’m trying to get an idea of why we choose to only substantially update only our exhaust valves. The intake valves sit there with all this heat in them and our air, after just being sent through a heat exchanger, flow past glowing hot slugs of metal before it gets to the chamber. Returning all this heat back to the air has to be considered if one is doing exhaust valves; if it is being done to help remove excess charge heat.

Friggin' ipad auto correct is some insidious shizzznitz..., just sayin'..., not just satin...., I am really starting to hate that pads shenanigans when I log on here with it...,

As for fuel system differences, yes there are some. The fuel pump control system uses thicker wire, and uses the sti fuel pump controller. As mentioned in an earlier post, the reason that B's cannot use the lgt platform stems from the fact that its connectors are a mix of the five and three pin interconnects. Additionally as was addressed, the limited run of that particular variant push it to the back of the line for this early rollout. Hell I don't mind the wait. I'm just happy we are getting it at all. If it turns out that I have to cobble together interconnects and eschew the warranty then my used to work on a sub nuclear reactor butt will just have to deal with it and get my e85 on. Having seen what an e85 tune can do when the percentage is way off while under high boost, I'm not going to play with corn again without something faster to adjust than I can. Just satin'. I also deem the P and L fuel rail and regular kit to be the most complete system I've yet seen; so I'll be all in on that one for my upcoming birthday gift to me. I'll see how that meshes with the e85 kit on the back end of course. Cryo...., I just might pack up the wife and get a limp tune after this rebuild just to drive down from Chicago and have you tune the B up.

I've not heard anything from Cobb about the Spec B connections for the kit. Did Cobb give you any feedback Cryo? They tend to tell the big fish about these things first when this stuff gets done. I want to get the kit but if it is not going to be available any time soon, I'll switch over to getting an external waste gate up and down pipes setup for Xmas instead.

06 was/is more or less what you think it is. I believe this is covered in some detail in many other threads, or we can discuss further elsewhere without usurping this Flex Fuel thread.

I'm sorry cryo, I made a mistake about the post. I read on the Cobb web site. Questions Shandon · 3 days ago Can i buy this kit without the fuel lines and fuel pressure regulator? I’m running aftermarket lines and fpr already. Let me know price without those items. Thanks 1 answer Answer this Question Kyle · 2 days ago Hi Shandon, Give us a call at 866-922-3059 and we can help. Kyle@COBB 1 person found this answer helpful. 3 people did not find this answer helpful. Helpful? Yes · 1 1 person found this answer helpful. Click to agree. No · 3 3 people did not find this answer helpful. Click to agree. Report Ask a Question This is located on their $720 Flex with regulator page.

The Spec b is closer to the STI in is make up than it is the WRX, stuff like our fuel pump regulator is not the same as the LGT. It is the STI unit on a different bracket, for example. There are other engine tweaks as well. Subaru used interconnects in the Spec b that are different from those of the GT. Cobb didn't elaborate but it may well be either that Spec b's have five pin connectors, or that they have a combination of three and five pin connectors, or that they are just of a different interconnect format than those used in the GT.

That is sage thought cryo. I had forgotten about the warranty aspect. I was also told by Brandon that they sell replacement parts; I'd assume this is the root of the I can get the individual parts thought process. However, as there is no Spec b kit, we would not be getting replacement individual parts myself and my fellow owners. I am just a touch not happy about missing the 10% discount. I'll have to stick with what I think is a 5% military discount when the spec the kit, pun intended.... I also can't find the exact response from them that I was looking to send you. I'm just too glad our group is getting this at all.

One from yesterday, https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-flex-fuel-kit-save-big-and-buy-individual-pieces-276638.html?t=276638&highlight=flex+fuel

Let me see if I can find it, hold on just a sec cryo, it was a post here on the forum with their customer support number included. I'll see if I can find it. As for the necessary changes, I to am just thinking of getting FXT kit and doing same.

Additionally, I asked if those of us could purchase the FXT kit, it comes without the regulator, because I don't need the regulator. Yes and no. Plugs are not the same but the hardware is. So if one does not care about the plugs or can source their own, buying the FXT kit is viable.

If any of the Spec b owners that purchased a kit and have that kit in their possession already, can add input to this info it would help. I would suggest a fitment test to see if your, "LGT" only, plugs fit into whatever male or female plug it is supposed to on your Spec b. The info we're receiving about this kit is a bit 'all over the map' as it were.

I spoke with Brandon at Cobb today and two items of general interest to our community were discussed. 1. Sending out the LGT kit without the regulator will not be done as it costs them more to do it that way. I am assuming that everything is already pre-packaged and separating items within said package for dispatch is not gonna happen. I also informed him that we, (the Legacygt.com group), have been informed otherwise and if what he is tell me is the case, someone from Cobb needs to correct the information that we were given from them in this regard. This is the important one, at least for me and those other Spec b owners. 2. The LGT kit does not work on the Spec b because the connectors are not the same as those used in the GT, the OBXT or the FXT. Brandon says they are still awaiting the correct fitment for the Spec b connections before releasing the kit for it. Spec b owners that did their purchases online will either need to return their LGT kit, or either source their own connectors, or they might remove the connectors and wire directly.

The dealer had 'fixed' my engine three times previously..., now it is time to take it out of their hands. They have been soo, not so good at it since the VF blew chunks into it the first time.

What goodies might you still have available? I am in the midst of an engine rebuild. turns out my valve guides went to ovaltown after my last dealer rebuild.

I am interest. I have an email from them in response to my question about their not having anything listed for the LGT other than the fuel pump.

:icon_lol:Lmao..., ops. I sware not to talk about anything that relates to the "fuel-pump-control-module" ever, ever again on the "fuel-pump-control-module forum. I'll just sit and read everyone else talk about amps, volts, pulse width, what wire to use, buy somebody else's module because you can't really run a real pump without it, and so forth and so on......, "Here you go Einstein http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread...10547.html?amp;" It is BubbleHead or Squid, eg. "Here you go BubbleHead", Mr. KCWagon. I do however appreciate the levity.

One should not go placing a diode into anything without knowing the type, current rating and orientation of it in the circuit. Are we talking a zener, or a normal diode type? Were one is working in breakdown and dropping the 1.5V going to the sensor and thus making the circuit boost voltage to compensate, (because the voltage is rectified already), or are we modifying a portion of the AC that is being fed to the sensor circuit with a regular diode? Enquiring minds want to know.....

Instead of all this battery relay business. How about we use the PWM signal as the first stage of a two stage motor controller. Put a small amount of variable voltage gain to compensate for the different fpcm's in the input of the second stage, a nice robust bipolar transistor ought to do it. Run battery voltage big cables and ground cables to the second stage for power supply and whatever wiring the fpcm is using doesn't matter anymore all it needs to do is modulate either the gate or base of whatever device we choose to use. Maybe fifty bucks in parts and we can run any sized amp load we want.

"...I made 276/292 on 92 octane. I made 324/350 on E85 e85 really is the JUICE. It spooled about 500 rpm sooner at really hit hard. I think with the 18G, it would be lots of fun. I am running a DW 65c fuel pump and am beginning to think it is the weak link. I have replaced everything else AND am running battery power to the fuel pump." Talking about turbocharger upgrades without talking about the supporting mod issues is a bit negligent. I've qouted some words above about Mr. KCwagon and his BNR 18g upgrade issues. Maybe Mr. KCwagon should share some of his knowledge here within the Bolt up turbocharger upgrade thread so we can all gain from his experience. If Mr. "e85 really is the JUICE" thinks the DW65c is his weak link even with his battery powered pump, the DW65c may not be up to feeding a BNR/HTA. What do you think fahr_side? On paper it looks to be more than enough pump to handle what I am looking for. If anything I would be underutilizing the the HTA68 because I would be asking it to run BNR18G numbers but I want the HTA center housing. With 93 running at or above 5 dollars and e85 at $3.86 at the corner BP I really want to switch up but I also read somewhere on legacygt about a guy claiming he was running out of fuel trying to run his "18g/fmic tuned" on e85 with DW850's. My research validated that topmount 850's (ID's or DW's), an STi fuel controller/rewired lgt fuel supply along with the 65c should be more than what is needed to handle the stage three. The guy that was having fueling issues with his 850's has an '05 wagon and may very well be using side feed injectors. He doesn't say which he is using but forum opinion has it that 850 side feeds are not the easiest injectors to tune when running e85. They don't seem to maintain consistancy at or above 850cc on popcorn :munch:gas. Either way, I agree with him about e85 being the juice. We've got a few places here that blend as much as 15% in their gases and my engine just purrrrrrrrs off of that stuff..., and it does indeed smell sweeter.

For the curious. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wholesale-DEATSCHWERKS-DW65C-Compact-In-Tank-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Flows-265lph-Ethanol-compatible-for-Subaru-WRX/714121769.html