08SpecB_DE

I'd check fuel pressure first since you dont have codes. You can also try using alternative fuel (2+2) through a vacuum hose and see if the car runs. Do you smell fuel while the car is turning over?

I'd check the hoses for cracks first. I've seen evap valves rust out and leak but never bad enough that they hiss. A spray bottle with soapy water should help isolate the leak. If it is the valve, I wouldn't recommend bypassing it.

I'd guess around 90%. I see a small sampling but most people do it because it's no cost to them. If you can't physically get to the dealership then that's one thing, but if you're able to drop it off they will provide you with a free loaner. It can be returned after hours when you pick up your car, at least that's how it worked for me. I handed in the keys to a clerk, she gave me my keys and I was on my way.

I'm sure it's in written in a walkthrough on here somewhere but torquing the axle nut is a critical step most don't do. Some run them on with a gun until their tight which can lead to premature failure. The manufacturers make you preload the bearing which is done when torquing down the axle nut.

It makes sense to get out of it now but those Acuras are known for oil consumption and transmission issues as well, so do your homework before buying.

Sounds like a solenoid in the transmission. If it were me, I'd walk away and find another car. They probably cleared the code hoping it would stay out.

I put one on the RF of my car a couple months ago and it's been great. Time will tell how long it lasts but I dont seem to go through bearings like other members. I have around 130k and have only replaced the LR and RF.

$1000 as trade in on a car with 88k miles? It would take every bit of self control to not cuss that guy out if it was me. Its nice that they are doing it for free. Stack up your money and drive it until the warranty is done. It would be cheaper to have them replace the chain and guides now if you plan on keeping it but that doesnt seem to be the case.

Did you have the vehicle flashed after you installed the downpipe? If you did, those codes should have been "erased". What did they do to the car? If you have access to a scan tool, you can check readiness monitors.

They're both similar quality. I would have went Continental if I wanted the cam seals. You can't go wrong with either of them.

With the ac running on full cold, is the low pressure line cold? Check from the compressor to the expansion valve. Do the fans run? It SOUNDS like the compressor may be bad. The clutchless compressors are a whole new ballgame as far as diagnosing goes. Can you access ac data with a scan tool?

Aisin is top quality. I've installed dozens on various manufacturers and they have all been O.E. like parts.

I put a Timken on the RF a couple months ago and it's fine. $88 on Rockauto right now.

I use chisels. Just have to take care.

 

This is the only way I've ever been able to get one apart that has never been separated. A strong, thin chisel is key to getting a small split to occur, so you can use a bigger one to really get it split. It will not just fall out so you can take nuts off. Once out, I buff any minor gouging caused by the chisels.

Sub- Have the hoses ever been replaced? I think its safe to assume the calipers are fine so you can rule them out. I would think if there was an issue in the abs module, it would throw a code for a dump valve or something of that sort. I think the keyword is "intermittent". Can you pinpoint when you feel it the most (i.e. after driving for an hour in the city, only cold in the morning, after heavy braking, etc)? I concur with it not being an alignment issue, for some reason I was stuck on a shimmy after hitting bumps or dips in the road.

 

This may sound silly but if you guys frequently wash your cars when the brakes are hot, it can warp the rotors.

Bestbuysubaru.com has good diagrams. When you say left side, do you mean driver side or passenger side? The passenger valve cover is known to leak onto the uppipe on the passenger side, causing it to smoke.

Tell them to eat that $2100 and replace the harness since they misdiagnosed it to begin with. Just kidding...well kinda. Was it the vent valve that they replaced along with the canister? Do you have access to a bi-directional scanner and/or a powerprobe?

Subaru sells a master gasket set but it does not come with the half moons. There may be a couple other pieces but it's the most complete set you can get. I'd get the cam locking tools as well. You dont want the cams spinning if you try hitting the bolt with an impact gun. They are on there TIGHT, best chance to not strip them is to jam the locking tool against something like the crank bolt, then crack it free with a 2' breaker bar. I've stripped them before and had to weld an axle nut onto the bolt head to get it out.

No plans for E85 since it's not in my area. I'll check with him, thanks.

I was hoping to retain the factory rails but no dampers is intriguing. Would the 1050's cause any idling issues since they're essentially bigger than what I need or does the tuner scale accordingly?

It's odd they would be defective so soon but at least they're going to fix it. I wouldnt personally deal with a noise like that on a new car, but that's up to you.

Hey guys, I'm looking to get some bigger injectors to go with the vf52 when I put it in. I know it's not necessary but I'm going to have the manifold off to do the tgv delete, so I figure why not go bigger and get the full experience of the turbo? I was thinking 850cc but they dont seem to be a popular size these days. I'm NOT looking to stay with stock injectors, so if you were or have been in my shoes, what are you running?

Have you talked with any tuners? Maybe one of them could help.

If a couple taps does nothing, check for power and ground at the motor. If you dont have power, check the fuses first. If you don't have ground, check the blower motor resistor.

 

Looking at fuel trims should give you a general idea of where to look for fixing the idle.

Sorry Sub, I thought you had a shimmy when hitting bumps in the road. You debunked your own theory, if the caliper is not biting properly, the car would pull to the side that is doing the braking. There is a chance that the brake hose is collapsing and not allowing the piston to retract or the piston is getting stuck and not releasing, causing aslight drag and the shimmy.

 

Do the pads move freely in the brackets?

Are all the pads evenly worn?

Do the guide pins float with little to no resistance? I find those rubber sleeves jam up.

Do any the pistons compress tighter than another?

Do the rotors have a clean wear surface?

Do you feel the shimmy in the body or does the steering wheel shake as well?