08SpecB_DE

Do you have the passenger side sun visor in good condition?

I would check the control head first. A scanner should be able to tell you if the computer is recognizing the a/c switch as being on, which energizes the relay.

Ahhh yes, the infamous Subaru timing chain cover leaks. It could have been avoided or less prone to leak if they simply used a gasket, rather than just rtv. I'll never understand why engineers thought it was a good idea. There are multiple spots the oil could be leaking from, so before you get the cover re-sealed, power wash the motor and add some dye to the oil. If you're lucky, it may just be a cam sensor leaking.

Did you program the sensor ID's to the module? It might be worth checking the fuses.

Absolutely. It's never a good idea to put all the weight on the lug studs.

I'd try cleaning the maf and throttle body. Check around for vac leaks while you're under the hood.

Are you positive you have fuel, spark and injector pulse? Can you hook up a scan tool to make sure you have rpm signal while cranking?

He's already replaced the cap.

 

There should be a 2 pin plug on the canister from the junkyard. That is the valve in question. If you have a multimeter, set it to ohms and measure the resistance across the 2 pins. I'll see if I can find the specs for max/min allowed.

 

If you have the ability to command the valve open/closed and have a 921 or 7440 style bulb handy, bend the prongs on the bulb and insert them into the connector. While commanding the valve open or shut, the bulb should light up letting you know there is power and ground. Take it one step further and wiggle the wiring to see if the bulb cuts out indicating a broken wire.

Is the lower hose hot or cold when it starts overheating? If it's cold, thermostat is stuck closed. If its hot, thermostat is working.

Coming on and going off on its own leads me to believe it's an intermittent issue. I'd ohm the sensor and compare it to factory specifications. Leak tests will not tell you if a solenoid or valve is bad unless you're able command it on/off or open/closed. You can pull the valve and supply your own power and ground several times to see if it opens and seals but if the resistance (ohms) are out of spec, there's no need to go further until you have a new valve.

I'm not fond of Autel's operating system but they are affordable and can do a lot of things across all platforms. I have the Solus Edge which is one step down from the Modis. It did run me a little over 3k but I doubt you want to spend that much. Launch is another option but Autel is a better choice.

Can't help with a spare housing, but do you have pics of what you're dealing with?

I use a Snap-on angle torque wrench and I've noticed once the bolt loosens, the angle reading stops. I know I've gone a full 180 but the wrench will read 135 or something like that.

Nothing beats new, factory spring clamps for coolant hoses. I had the same issue with worm clamps after replacing the radiator. It only leaked in the winter and would be okay for about a month or so after retightening. I haven't had the issue since.

From what I've seen, the increased stiffness of the clutch pedal was due to the throwout bearing. It also broke the fork and tore up the snout.

For 58k, the fluid being that dark seems a little odd. I've replaced gear oil at 100k that hasn't looked like that. It does not break down like motor oil so the color change is not as dramatic. I'd put money on them never changing it.

These any better than the white bristle discs that was recommended in this TSB?

 

http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/tsb/cylinder_head_gasket.pdf

 

Much better. I always use the blue discs as well, which are primarily meant for aluminum. The bristle pads fall apart and make a mess too easily imo.

A test light from HF is very cheap. I can't help as far as which wire is which but a test light will give you the answer. Buy the one that hooks up to power and ground so you can check for both without having to switch the alligator clip from one terminal to the other.

Sub'd for pics. I've seen old, worn out rotors have quite a lip on the outer edge but not a new or freshly cut rotor.

Young, dumb me did it on an Impala 10+ years ago when I was replacing a rack. I too, wanted to make sure the wheel was straight before hooking up the new rack and thought it was fun to freely spin the steering wheel. Your clockspring is broken.

I find it very hard to believe that the o2 sensor is stuck and unable to be removed in a 5 year old Florida car. As mentioned, take it to the dealer, and have the wicked expensive cat replaced under warranty, the sensor is likely just fine.

 

Agreed! That o2 should come out with no problem whatsoever! Even if it lived in the NE for 4-5 years, it would still come out easily.

Sorry, I meant compatible.

I'm not near my car to pop the hood but I can only think of the purge valve and the boost control solenoids in the areas you specify.

I wouldn't trust a Jiffy Lube type of place to change the cvt fluid, but an independent shop can easily take care of it for you. They would most likely use a Subaru cvt comparable fluid unless you request Subaru specific fluid. I don't know of any shop that would fill it up with atf without looking up specs first but I wouldn't put it past the shady looking places.

Check your fuel trims. That will indicate if you're running rich.