BlackWagon GT

Old part number is 9Q 22611AJ65B. The Subaru parts catalog says up to Revision E is compatible. Let me know what you have. Thanks!

I ran some more checks, and the ECM is definitely not triggering the drain/vent valve in test mode. Looks like a bad ECM is the culprit.

The Check Engine light came on while driving home on the highway. Scanned it and only P0457 was stored. I went through the code's diagnostic procedure in the FSM and found the drain valve was not operating during Test Mode with the green connectors under the glove box hooked up. I installed a new vapor canister (the only way to get the valve) per the diagnostic chart's instruction, but the new valve is also not operating; the voltage at valve's connector is not pulsing. Is there a step I'm missing to make the valve operate, or did the ECM take a dump?

The pressure switch on the back of the power steering pump on my '05 OBXT is leaking. Is it available separately from the pump, even unofficially? In the past I've been told "thAt ParT DoeSn't ExIst" for a specific year/model of vehicle but expanding the search to similar others yields what I need. I'm hoping this is similar, but internet searching has only found other people asking the same question. Aftermarket pumps don't seem to come with one, and even the best price I've seen for an OEM pump is more than I want to spend on this endeavor right now. On a similar note, will the 34433-AG020 pressure switch harness fit my '05? It's officially for '07-up, but that doesn't mean it won't work. The wire insulation on the one in the car is deteriorated and flaking off due to being soaked in fluid, so it's not worth replacing unless I do the pressure switch at the same time, or replace the pump with an OEM one that includes the harness. The pump itself works fine (for now?), so if the switch doesn't exist separately I might just tolerate the leak for now and keep an eye on the fluid level.

If it's still available and all the connectors and plastic sheathing are in good shape, would you be willing to sell the engine wiring harness separate from the intake?

North of Randhurst. If anything, it was between Hicks and Half Day.

Saw two yesterday. Gray GT wagon turning from southbound Milwaukee to eastbound Half Day. The other was a black or dark blue '08-'09 spec.B on Hicks or 83, I forget which.

It's probably no one on here, but I saw an '05-'06 OBP 2.5i wagon turning from Northwest Highway onto Hicks around 4:30 this afternoon.

Saw two today. An OBP in Lisle on Ogden this morning and an ABP in the Elk Grove Village/Arlington Heights area in the afternoon. Both looked stock.

Thanks for the input. I thought of that too, and at least at the battery it's around 14-14.5 volts. I don't remember if I checked it at the ECU with AP or not; I'll definitely double back on that. I also had the thought that a bad rectifier diode might be causing a sine-wave output from the alternator, but my (cheap and basic) oscilloscope showed clean voltage.

Swapped #2 and #4 injectors on Sunday and changed the AP datalog list to include the cylinder roughness values. The first log I ran with the RPM steady around 2100 showed intermittent roughness on all four cylinders, not just #4 like I thought I saw before. What are the odds that I have multiple bad injectors?

I finally have some direction with my car. Yesterday I was able to witness and log Cylinder 4 Roughness incrementing between 2100-2300RPM with no load, at one point reaching as high as 9. I swapped #2 and #4 coils to see if the roughness would follow, but it did not. Next step is going to be swapping injectors in the same fashion. If that also is inconclusive, I'm not sure if I should focus on mechanical (compression & leakdown) or electrical (ECU, harness, etc).

I actually have a follow-up question to my previous post. What does "A/F Sensor Current" represent? Is it the sensor heater or the raw output from the sensor element?

rlefevre, you have an '09, correct? I have attached a few logs I made today. I found out that my AP will only log up to 16 points, so things I wanted to include like cylinder roughness didn't make the cut. I can always change the point list and re-log if it will help to figure out what has been so elusive so far. datalog46.csv datalog48.csv datalog50.csv

You raise one point and give credence to mine at the same time. If you are correct, then the problem, or I should say a variation of the symptom, is nonspecific to either type of transmission but is simply buffered by the torque converter so it appears that manual transmission cars are more symptomatic. However, if there is a symptom variation that is specific to MT cars, then that would give more weight to the possibility that it could be caused by a faulty DMFW since it is the only factory-installed directly-coupled component that is not present with an AT. Cruising these threads has led me to believe there are multiple causes and therefore multiple solutions to similar symptoms. The problem is, without directly experiencing the symptoms side-by-side, we are all attempting to interpret other people's descriptions to make armchair diagnoses. I know I certainly fall into that category.

Since the data that has come out of my ECU has yielded no clues, I'm starting to wonder if I am looking in the wrong place to find the problem. I did some thinking tonight, but what if it's actually a mechanical issue rather than tuning/software? The dual-mass flywheel specifically came to mind. It's a shot in the dark, yes, but taking its construction into consideration, I would posit that a worn or damaged DMFW coupled with some driveline slack might just be enough to cause oscillation. I could be way off, but when the obvious answer is wrong, it's time to start thinking outside the box.

I spent yesterday morning datalogging with a friend of a friend, Mike Piecko, who runs Red Mist Automotive in Gilberts, IL. By the numbers, my car is running nearly-perfectly. Fuel trims, knock counts, cylinder roughness, all right where they ought to be according to the ECU. We thought it might have been something with the TGVs or throttle motor duty cycle, but research I did today ruled both of those out.

AP, sort of. I don't know what map my AP put in my ECU when I divorced it since I think I had a custom map when I married it, so I want to get a verified stock map/rom back into it before I go any further.

I did the fuel line mod, and it made zero difference in the running characteristics. Next step is to flash my ECU. I'm frustrated and running out of ideas.

At this point, I'll try anything, but I have my doubts that this will fix my problem. According to the links in that thread, the resonance peaks at about 3,000 RPM. Some back of envelope maths on that give a natural frequency of about 100Hz for an STi's fuel system. In my case, the engine runs the worst at about 2100 RPM, which would be somewhere around 70Hz. I suspect that the LGT's fuel line is longer than an STi's but I don't think it's enough to drop the resonance by some 30%. In fact, I went back and looked at some of my old logs, and my correction 1 is consistently 5-10% negative. I really hope this works for some people, but with how defiant my car has been so far, I admit I'm cynical.

Two in two days! Tonight, WB I-90. Black or dark blue wagon with exhaust and firm suspension. You got away from me before I had a chance to get a good look, and since I was in my company car (silver Fusion) I wasn't about to give chase through traffic. I'd be up for a meetup, too. Even more so if it's for sushi.

Me? I have a stock air filter.

If mine still does it after being flashed with a proper ROM (see my post on page 5), Cobb is not what is causing my issue.

Saw one in my office parking lot today in Lisle. '05-07 OBP LGT, debadged, STi stickers and grille, cleared turns.

Another update of things that didn't fix it. Had the intake gaskets and spark plugs replaced, and put the ECU back to "stock" tune (in quotes because I believe it had a non-stock map before I flashed it to Cobb's Stage 1, so I don't know what map the AP reverted back to after divorcing).