LeGiT_Flat4

I would be tempted to buy a new Forester XT but the CVT kills it for me. #SaveTheManuals

I've taken mine to Solid Autoworks a couple of times. Paul even replaced my spark plugs free of charge while he was in there to do the test. Haven't been there for a while but I'd recommend them for just about anything.

Wow, this is just wow: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/3479529?ad_cid=13

I'm highly interested if it's available for '05s. I'd have to consider total cost of course but would open my wallet pretty wide for this. I've always been a fan of open-source so I don't currently own an AP but this would be the incentive I need to get one.

Guess I can stop hoping to see these things flooding the member classifieds at a slight markup for those of us too skeptical (or too chicken) to pull the trigger on the "deal" Very curious how many actually shipped.

Subbed for results and legitimate fitment confirmation. CarID.com says: Now 20% off. Originally $5.00. $4.00!!!! Wtf? Says limited lifetime warranty too...

I've been meaning to post a review for a while...better late than never I suppose. Completed a 91 tune with Dave a while back and I highly agree with all the positive comments kristian88 and others have made. We just got going on an e85 tune and I've already received several revisions. His responses and revisions are always super fast. Dave accurately diagnosed a couple of issues I had initially with my 91 tune including a bad ebcs as well as a bad o2 sensor. I was very impressed that with all the new parts on my car, knock was almost non-existent even in early maps and throughout the progression of revisions. He was able to fine tune along the way and even a couple of months after the tune was complete (and quite a bit of spirited driving) my logs and Learning Views have been virtually knock-free. Could be the happiest 2 months of my engine's life . Now that we are a couple of revisions in to my e85 tune, Dave is back to working his magic and is methodically going through his process of getting the fueling precise so we can get to the fun stuff and see what my 18g can do on corn power! Thanks for everything Dave!

I'm still thinking about parts that could be made, but I think it would be cool if you could make a detailed scale model of a Legacy especially if it was paint-able. Something like this:

Wow, way ahead of schedule! I'll be ordering one up tonight! Thanks Mike

I sheared that same bolt and need to replace it as well. Thank you for the part #

I'm not aware of anyone reporting that it actually failed on them. Some have gone for quite a long time after the actuator started making the noises without seeing any loss in functionality. I think it just gets noisy...who knows if that's an indication that it will eventually fail. What I do know is that mine is still working fine and is noise free after having done the above mentioned "maintenance" a few months ago.

Couldn't agree more...time well spent to get rid of the super annoying noise. $90 just for the part and who knows how much for labor if they did the work. Mine's still perfectly quiet after 2 weeks. Let us know if you pull yours out compsurge. I'm interested to know if more people have the same results. Sounds like so far it's at least 2 for 2, but that's not much of a sample size.

I got my Epics from msprank in June 2012 and they were from the batch with clear isolators. All I know is the rears "squeaked" like a banchee until I greased between the dead coils after reading that was one way people were dealing with it with some degree of success. It doesn't make sense to me but that was my experience.

I remembered seeing a thread about replacing the cabin filter which requires removing the glove box, but I didn't refer to it when taking mine out (though I kind of wish I had...probably would have made it somewhat easier). It is a pretty nice walk through if you do decide to give it another go. I tracked the thread down: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/installation-cabin-air-filter-56k-warning-1626.html?t=1626&highlight=cabin+filter

Hey guys, I finally got around to making a serious attempt to do something about this on my car. I wasn't quite sure what I was going to do but I wanted to at least figure out what that actuator/servo part was all about and what it would take to replace it. Mine was driving my nuts making noise all the time while driving and then of course after I shut the car off. I give ssbtech credit for being a genius based on his post a little while back because basically I did exactly what he said. The result: as of now I have a perfectly quiet and smooth running actuator! It's a miracle and although I cant' be sure that the issue will never return, I'm pretty stoked that I've been able to drive my car around since yesterday with no hint of that annoying clicking and it's dead silent when I shut the car off. Wouldn't be right to not thank compsurge as well since as far as I know, he's the one that initially diagnosed it and correctly identified the part (there are a couple of other threads about this issue as well). Anyway, so I pulled out the glove box (which actually ended up not being as messy as I thought it might) and that gave me enough room (barely) to get in there and pull the actuator out. Still a pretty cramped space but I just had to use a small screwdriver to get at the 3 little screws that hold it in place (after getting the metal brace out of the way). Once the actuator was out, I saw that it could easily be taken apart. Basically its a motor and some gears that are housed in a case which can be pulled apart by undoing some tabs around the outside. I broke a couple tabs in the process cuz they were pretty brittle but I wasn't being very careful since I was just assuming I was going to have to get a new one anyway. The little cylinder motor pops right out. I just cleaned off some of the surfaces and parts and added a little grease to the gears. I didn't really have much hope for that to work, but I put it back together and reconnected the green plug and tested it out. I was amazed that it was totally silent and there was no more herky jerky movements or noises at all. After a few tests, I was ready to reinstall it. That was a bit of a pain to get it back in. The large white plastic piece on the one side of the housing that connects to the gear wheel has a couple of guides on it that need to be reconnected. This assembly controls where the air blows with the different modes by opening/closing the various vents so the air routes appropriately. Anyway, I can't say I know exactly why this worked and fixed the issue, but based on my experience I would have to recommend giving it a try. Also if the noise/issue returns, it's good to know that with a little patience and maybe a few scratched up knuckles, the part can be swapped out DIY style without too much hassle (part # 72131AG24A). The video here is after I reinstalled the (now working) actuator. The final position is after I turn the key to off. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_Rv7E9JZEs]LGT hvac servo (actuator) - YouTube[/ame]